U-Can-Do 3d 46?
#601
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From: Kibbutz Yakum, ISRAEL
I have a problem installing the wheel pants in my UCD 46.
i have not enough space for the screw clamp.
what can i do?
I laminated 2 pieces of plywood to make a thicker piece which has a large hole on one side.
I then cut a 1/2 inch hole in the wheel pant to accommodate the shaft and glued the
laminated piece of wood into the wheel pant with the holes lined up
i have not enough space for the screw clamp.
what can i do?
I laminated 2 pieces of plywood to make a thicker piece which has a large hole on one side.
I then cut a 1/2 inch hole in the wheel pant to accommodate the shaft and glued the
laminated piece of wood into the wheel pant with the holes lined up
#603
I'm fliying my UCD46 with an OS Surpass I .70, and an APC 14x4 prop. (4 flights, CG is 5.25, flies/hovers great.) What is the cause of the harmonics during flight and how do you cure it? The covering is 'drumming' during certain throttle settings. I tried a Zinger 14x5 and it got a little better. I put cushion tape on the wing saddle and again, it helped a little. Another UCD46 with an OS .70 at the field does the same thing. What did you guys do, or do you just ignore the sound???
#604

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From: modesto,
CA
I flew mine for the first time today and man that saito 91 sure kicks ***. Hovers with no problem (about 1/3 throttle) with plenty reserve. First time i actually brought any plane down on the deck and torkrolled then pulled out with no problems. Cant wait till this engine breaks in
Gbee
Mine made the same drumming noise that you are talking about. I thought that it was just the plane being overpowered and the vibrations were just making that noise. My buddy has a saito 72 and his didnt do that. I just ignored it and flew that crap out of it. Got 10 flights in today
. Plenty more to come
Santi
Gbee
Mine made the same drumming noise that you are talking about. I thought that it was just the plane being overpowered and the vibrations were just making that noise. My buddy has a saito 72 and his didnt do that. I just ignored it and flew that crap out of it. Got 10 flights in today
. Plenty more to come
Santi
#605

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From: Crestview, FL
You're making me jealous! I have one flight on my .91 powered one so far. That's all I had time for last weekend. We were scheduled to be out of town this weekend and next, so I haven't been able to fly mine at all! My son'n basketball practices keep me from flying after work. Can you say withdrawl?
#606

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From: modesto,
CA
joebob,
I went ahead and used the 1/8"carbon rods and 2-56 titanium ends that i had laying around for the stab support and used the half of the sulivan clevis to screw it into the bottom of the stab. So far so good flew that thing all day. Thanks for all your help on getting me going on this. Cant wait till next week i hope it doesnt rain[
]
Santi
I went ahead and used the 1/8"carbon rods and 2-56 titanium ends that i had laying around for the stab support and used the half of the sulivan clevis to screw it into the bottom of the stab. So far so good flew that thing all day. Thanks for all your help on getting me going on this. Cant wait till next week i hope it doesnt rain[
]Santi
#607

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From: Grove City, OH
I had a bad "drumming" problem as you put it, with a Saito .72. I didn't think much of it. Then after a small mishap, I decided to re-cover the plane. This was the first weekend I have flown it since the re-cover, I thought something was wrong with the engine because it ran SOOO much quieter. All of the drumming went away. I think it is a result of the covering not being tight, or not as tight as if you had done it yourself. Sounds awesome now!
#608
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From: Oregon,
OH
heres the body done. i still need to do some fine sanding.
does anyone have about a foot of red covering extra? i want to make this look good but i dont have and of this red covering. i would be willing to pay a little bit for it plus shipping. thanks, jeff
does anyone have about a foot of red covering extra? i want to make this look good but i dont have and of this red covering. i would be willing to pay a little bit for it plus shipping. thanks, jeff
#611

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From: Columbus, OH
I ordered one, but havent decided on an engine yet. I read up to about page 8 of this thread and it looked like most of you were talking about the OS70, Saito72 and the YS63. I need some feedback from everyone with these engines on theirs. I would much rather go with a 4-Stroke, particularly the Saito or YS... How did it balance out? How does it fly etc...
I wanted to get the Saito72 but with the engine being lighter than others, I was a little concerned about it coming out tail heavy. The YS63 looks like a good choice with the pump, that way there wouldnt be any tank locating issues. If I went with the Saito, I could get a regulator.
I wanted to get the Saito72 but with the engine being lighter than others, I was a little concerned about it coming out tail heavy. The YS63 looks like a good choice with the pump, that way there wouldnt be any tank locating issues. If I went with the Saito, I could get a regulator.
#612

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From: Grove City, OH
Mine balanced at 5" with these mods:
Saito .72
Pull-pull rudder servo (hs605) in place of the throttle servo location
Moved throttle servo to behind fuel tank (mounted sideways)
1100 6v 5cell batt on top of fuel tank
Saito .72
Pull-pull rudder servo (hs605) in place of the throttle servo location
Moved throttle servo to behind fuel tank (mounted sideways)
1100 6v 5cell batt on top of fuel tank
#614

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From: Athol,
ID
I had a Magnum 61 in mine, flew well but lacked verticle and would not hold a hover, just put in a Mag 91 FS, a direct bolt in with a one oz. weight gain. Haven't had time to try it out yet due to the cold here, 5 this am.
#615

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From: Grove City, OH
On a scale with +/- .25 lbs it was exactly 6lbs. I recovered it also, I thought it may reduce a few ounces, but with flames on the fuse and checkerboard under the wing, it's about the same. But it flat spins inverted nice, hovers great, knife edges great and I couldn't be happier with the performance. I'm pulling a 13x7 prop.
I'm new to 3d so it's awesome to hand over the sticks to another pilot in our club and watch him just totally wring it out. It will do amazing things.
I'm new to 3d so it's awesome to hand over the sticks to another pilot in our club and watch him just totally wring it out. It will do amazing things.
#616
Hypter,
I'm using a Saito 72 on my UCD 46 with an APC 14x4W prop. The CG is 6 inches back from the leading edge. Mine needs 30% nitro fuel to obtain decent acceleration out a hover.
The plane was assembled using the stock hardware that came with it. I used standard Futaba S3004 servos instead of those heavy weight hundred-dollar digital servos recomended in the instruction manual. The 600MaH battery is located in the rear of the radio compartment per the manual.
The plane weighed 6.5 pounds on a baby scale. When I saw that weight I started muttering all kinds of obscenities because the advertised weight range is 5lbs to 5lbs, 10 oz. Maybe my UCD was manufactured with heavier wood to alleviate problems that some people had with wing failure and the fuselage crushing underneath the stabilizer.
Anyway, I'm very pleased with the way it flies.
I'm using a Saito 72 on my UCD 46 with an APC 14x4W prop. The CG is 6 inches back from the leading edge. Mine needs 30% nitro fuel to obtain decent acceleration out a hover.
The plane was assembled using the stock hardware that came with it. I used standard Futaba S3004 servos instead of those heavy weight hundred-dollar digital servos recomended in the instruction manual. The 600MaH battery is located in the rear of the radio compartment per the manual.
The plane weighed 6.5 pounds on a baby scale. When I saw that weight I started muttering all kinds of obscenities because the advertised weight range is 5lbs to 5lbs, 10 oz. Maybe my UCD was manufactured with heavier wood to alleviate problems that some people had with wing failure and the fuselage crushing underneath the stabilizer.
Anyway, I'm very pleased with the way it flies.
#618

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From: Grove City, OH
No fuel regulator.
Mounted tank as per plans.
However, I mounted the tank and then proceded to drill a hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod, RIGHT THROUGH THE TANK! EGAD! The problem didn't surface until the maiden flight when radio contact became intermittent and I subsequently crashed into some weeds, breaking the wingtip and cracking the fuse. The autopsy revealed a fuel soaked switch resulting in sporatic electrical flow!
Everyone here probably already knows this but I'll say it anyway, DRILL THE HOLE FIRST, MOUNT THE TANK LAST!
With the tank in the stock location, the Saito does have a tendency to load up with fuel on board, there are a few posts in this thread dealing with that issue. If it does load up, plug in a remote fuel filler and turn the engine over a few times, it will blow out the fuel.
Mounted tank as per plans.
However, I mounted the tank and then proceded to drill a hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod, RIGHT THROUGH THE TANK! EGAD! The problem didn't surface until the maiden flight when radio contact became intermittent and I subsequently crashed into some weeds, breaking the wingtip and cracking the fuse. The autopsy revealed a fuel soaked switch resulting in sporatic electrical flow!
Everyone here probably already knows this but I'll say it anyway, DRILL THE HOLE FIRST, MOUNT THE TANK LAST!
With the tank in the stock location, the Saito does have a tendency to load up with fuel on board, there are a few posts in this thread dealing with that issue. If it does load up, plug in a remote fuel filler and turn the engine over a few times, it will blow out the fuel.
#619
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From: Winter Park, FL
What is the best way to remove monokote as per instructions on the U can do 46 arf .
I affraid to cut into the balsa and weaken the joint . Is there any other way to do it without cutting it . I heard that there is a way to use a hot knife ??? has anyone tried it???
Please advise as I am getting ready to build my 46 u can do Thanks in advance Ken
I affraid to cut into the balsa and weaken the joint . Is there any other way to do it without cutting it . I heard that there is a way to use a hot knife ??? has anyone tried it???
Please advise as I am getting ready to build my 46 u can do Thanks in advance Ken
#620
KJA,
You can use a soldering iron, but be careful don't burn the wood. A soldering iron works great. Just draw a line on the covering where you want to remove. Align a metal ruler just inside the line and run a hot soldering iron down the edge of the metal ruler. The speed that you move the iron is important. Too slow any you may burn, too fast and the covering won't melt.
You can use a soldering iron, but be careful don't burn the wood. A soldering iron works great. Just draw a line on the covering where you want to remove. Align a metal ruler just inside the line and run a hot soldering iron down the edge of the metal ruler. The speed that you move the iron is important. Too slow any you may burn, too fast and the covering won't melt.
#621
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From: Manhattan,
NY
ORIGINAL: KJA
What is the best way to remove monokote...
What is the best way to remove monokote...
#622
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From: Mesquite,
TX
ORIGINAL: STLPilot
Fly up as high as you can, say 1000 ft AGL. Then point the nose straight down and full throttle. Move your aileron stick to the left or right to give it a little out of control effect. Fly straight into the ground with your engine wide open. This should remove whatever monokote from the balsa you would like off. If it does not, try it again.
ORIGINAL: KJA
What is the best way to remove monokote...
What is the best way to remove monokote...

Rick
#623
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From: Manhattan,
NY
ORIGINAL: Heads_Up
NO NO NO ... you just gave the directions for the proper way to remove a motor mount. The proper way to remove monokote involves a half gallon of 89 octain gas and a match. 
Rick
ORIGINAL: STLPilot
Fly up as high as you can, say 1000 ft AGL. Then point the nose straight down and full throttle. Move your aileron stick to the left or right to give it a little out of control effect. Fly straight into the ground with your engine wide open. This should remove whatever monokote from the balsa you would like off. If it does not, try it again.
ORIGINAL: KJA
What is the best way to remove monokote...
What is the best way to remove monokote...

Rick
#624
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From: Mesquite,
TX
ORIGINAL: STLPilot
I don't know Rick I have about 6 planes with the Monokote "removed" from them and most of them were glorious crashes. This is actually the system to remove most parts including the servos as well. It's even a great way to get the fuel tank out of the plane without moving your battery or receiver.
ORIGINAL: Heads_Up
NO NO NO ... you just gave the directions for the proper way to remove a motor mount. The proper way to remove monokote involves a half gallon of 89 octain gas and a match. 
Rick
ORIGINAL: STLPilot
Fly up as high as you can, say 1000 ft AGL. Then point the nose straight down and full throttle. Move your aileron stick to the left or right to give it a little out of control effect. Fly straight into the ground with your engine wide open. This should remove whatever monokote from the balsa you would like off. If it does not, try it again.
ORIGINAL: KJA
What is the best way to remove monokote...
What is the best way to remove monokote...

Rick
I don't know Rick I have about 6 planes with the Monokote "removed" from them and most of them were glorious crashes. This is actually the system to remove most parts including the servos as well. It's even a great way to get the fuel tank out of the plane without moving your battery or receiver.

Rick
#625
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From: Winter Park, FL
Hey not bad it only took you two tries to give that great answer ???? If you fly as good as you help people you must fun to watch. Keep your day job ..... KJA


