David it no flutter what so ever and where it broke had nothing to do with glue. It broke on the leading edge of the stab 1 1/2 in. out from the fuse. I have read of some others doing the same thing. But like Edgeman55 I have flown several UCD's that were great. I just happen to get one with a flaw in it. I am waiting on Great Planes, they recieved the plane on Friday. When I called them, in the begining they said send it back and no questions asked. So kinda makes me wonder if they had some bad ones? None the less I am sure they will replace it.
And when they do I will build another one, BUT I will brace that tail section as pictured above!

Edgman55 I hope I get one like yours this time.

Chuck

Did you get one of the really new ones, or one of the first batches? I got mine 3 days ago from tower and this is the updated cg one. GP will replace your airplane dont worry.


David

David, It was bought at the end of December and do not know how long they had it in the shop? It had instructions for the UCD 60 in it so had to download the write book off the internet. have read several places about the CG being moved back. Also have read where they have change the tail on the newer ones, but do not know this for a fact. Everything I hear about Great Planes is all good. This was my first GP ARF. I will call on Monday to see where they are at on it.

The two flights that it flew it was GREAT! Just what was expected.

Chuck

Im finally starting to work on the ucando.

I got a deal on a satio 1.00 so i got it, should be a blast!

Ne way, i bet it says this on one of these pages, but how does it balance? Do i need to go pull-pull with a servo on topof the wing? 5625? 5925? Comments?


Thanks, and if ne of you guys did do the pull-pull, take some pics for me please!

David

Flew my baby this past weekend, I am still flying my Aerobat to get better at flying period, the UCD is such an easy plane to fly no bad characteristics really, I almost Harriered it to a landing then plunk wheel on the runway and safe and sound, cant wait for Saturday.

Great Planes came through, They shipped me a new plane yesterday! This one will be built with stab bracing and 4-40 hardware.

Chuck

Chuck, if you run a 2/56 or 4/40 rod from the bottom of the fuse outward to close to the tip of the horizontal stab that should be enuff bracing. Use plastic clevis on the ends and attach to small brackets. The rod will not need to be super tight, it just needs to keep the stab from flexing more than say a 1/4 inch or so up and down at the ends.

Ed M.

Ed, Thanks I bought Sullivans Guy wire system. That should do the trick. I have since talked several people ( R/C instructors one of which works for Wildhare ) in three different clubs in the DFW area and all of them have seen the same thing.

Chuck

That system will work great, it will be as light or lighter than the 2/56 rods and give the benifit of tying down the upper part also.

Ed M.

I am puzzled why GP does not come out with a fix for this? They seem to be a very good company to deal with. Maybe that only a small number of plane have this issue in comparison to how many are out on the market. The people who get the odd one that fails they just replace. Don't know? I will be glad to get this one going, LOVE the way they fly.

Chuck

Hello All,
I have watched this thread from its conception and I have to say, the UCD is a great plane for someone learning to do acrobatics. When you go and put a Saito 1.00 in it, you are above the novice level and you should have throttle control under control.
When you are buying a plane that is massed produced, you are going to get some bad ones. Everybody has a bad day, even the folks at Great Planes, so accidents in manufacturing will happen. The simple fact that they are replacing defective airplanes shows their devotion to customers.
I have a UCD and I love it. I am far from an advanced pilot, but I fly it like I stole it and have never had any problems. I flew it in fifteen mile and hour winds and landed from a harrier at about three feet off the ground (when the wind just stopped... [:@]). Needless to say, the gear broke out, but nothing else. A little epoxy and I was flying again.
Like I said, the airplane is a trainer for acrobatics. It is not the top of the line 3D plane, but one to get you there. I think Great Planes did a great job and I recommend this plane to anyone that has mastered a trainer. It takes off straight and true, lands better than my trainer and will flip, roll and loop better than I can ask.
I just wanted to say some good things about this plane, because not very many people have. We all have one, and we are all flying the wheel pants off of it, so lets just go flying and tell everybody what it will do! What has everybody done to mix controls and flight surfaces? I just want to get away from the complaints and get back to the fun!


Red

Dittos Red,I feel the same way about mine.

Red, great post. Its unreal the amount of punishment this plane will take. If you want to see the history of mine look up a post titled Bentgear breaks ca hinge, news at eleven. I wrote it to poke fun at some of the folks talking about how fragile these planes are. Mine is history now. Had over 20 air hours on it, which does not sound like much, but if you had seen the spots that plane was put in. There will be another.

Chuck, some may be breaking because of bad wood, but, I think more are breaking because people can't get it thru their heads that this is not a plane to be makeing full throttle passes over the flightline. Others break, like mine, because of the huge stress placed on them doing certain maneuvers. Its a fun plane, go have fun with it.

Ed M.

Hey guys, I'm using a 4 Stroke Magnum .56 XL ringed engine. What prop should I use?? Also, how did you guys work around the Fuel tank being higher than the Carb? The carb on the engine sits right in the middle of the two fuel lines on the fuel tank. I had a .61 Evolution engine in it and the carb was wayyy low so it wouldn't start at all. All it did was got flooded. I hope it doesnt do the same to this new engine I got.

My friends just seperated at the same place before the rear stab, in flight of course.
How did the situation get resolved with GP, did you have to send your tail section in ?

Edge,
They had me send the whole plane in. The sent me a new one in two days after receiving it. I have not read any threads where they have not replaced one. GP was very good to deal with!

Chuck

I am setting my UCD up with the Sulivan guy/flying wire system to help brace up the rear end a bit, has anybody done this and got some piccy's to send me.
The other thing i would to get input from other on is aerial routing, i would like to run an aerial tube down the inside of the fuse with an exit just under the rear stab, has anyone tried this or is there other suggestions for a neat way to do this.
By the way it other folks are using the Sulivan flying wire system using the steel wire as a continuous loop, remember it will affect the receiver proformance, i was going to use the steel on the top with the kevlar underneath....

I should be flying my UCD on Saturday. I gotta towerhobbies 61 bb abc in it. Ill let u know how everything goes.

I hope you have a blast with it. Good luck it will get with it if you have the CG right. I'm running 6" and its just right.

Okay guys, I've switched from a Evolution .61NT engine to a Magnum .52 XL 4 stroker. STILL!!!!! gettin flooding problems. I'm bout to quit on this plane. I've read post #333, tried it and nothing. I've worked on this plane for a month already and still I cannot get a engine running. I really wanna fly this thing but the darn flooding prob is just making me wanting to drop kick the plane. HELP!

Did about 7-8 flights. Broke the undercarriage 2 times! Now its all glassed and it wont come off even if you use a sledge hammer. [>:]

Got a OS FS70 II Surpass, broad 14X4 prop, Futaba gear, high torque only for rudder. CG 5.75 inches.

My first 3D plane, cant hold a hover even for two seconds, but I am sure its me not the plane.
But I am determined, have taken the day off on Tue, before sunsets I am gonna be torque rolling a tank full at a time [X(], thats a promise I made myself. [>:]

Love the plane and the OS70. Never needed more than two flicks for a start. But the only problem is about 50% of the time it starts clockwise!! [&o]

Tomi
Have you tried to use a refuel value like the dubro super fueler, it blocks the fuel going to the engine while you refuel the plane and you only remove the refuel value when you are ready to start the engine, should minimise the amount of fuel siphoning into the engine while you get yourself ready to start the engine.

Once the engine is running do you have any problems?

1 - Go Here http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/W...Regulator.html Purchased advertised item or a cline model (same thing different company).

2 - install on firewall near carb with silcone RTV like you use on a car.

3 - install the check valve in the muffler pressure line.

4 - put clamps on all fuel line connections

5 - start engine (will take 3-4 seconds of cranking to create pressure in tank).

6 - go thur adjusting the engine (needles will take a lot more turning to make a difference).

7 - go fly plane your flooding problems are over and you will not be tweaking on the engine all the time.

This is the only solution to you problem that is practical. My tank is in the canopy on the CG so it could not get any higher and I have no flooding and haven't touch my needle valves in weeks even with an almost new saito thats still breaking in. Hope this info helps.

Man the engine won't even start. The muffler spits out fuel like a ****. So I quit for the night. I don't want to try anymore and cause hydro lock. Came on here to see if you guys have a solution.

Wow $43 dollars plus shipping. Ahh more money I gotta spend. I really want that but I wish there was another solution.

The carb sits right between the fuel and vent line outlets on the fuel tank. I didn't think that would've been a prob but it's spittin out and dripping out fuel like crazy.

Take the glow plug off, have the engine upside down overnight, reset the needles to break-in, go from there.


Hope this helps a little,
David