Well there you go, went to sandown, not one single U-CAN-DO on any of the trade stalls, why would this be?? I thought a plane as talked about as this one would be a definate.

So what do i do, stick with looking for one on the web, or look at something else, bearing in mind i need easy building and 'fairly' easy flying.

i ran into a problem and i was wondering if it is a big deal. the instructions say to mount the engine so that the back of the spinner is 5" in front of the firewall. i can only get 4 7/8" with the engine all the way to the front of the motor mount. is this ok or do i need to get a longer motor mount?

ken, hobby people has those reverse y connectors for the elevators. they are made by cirrus.

WHOOO HOOOO Maiden Flight tomm. I cant wait to get this bad boy in the air. It seems as if the Saito 1.00 was made for this plane. Mixing all channels and was wondering if I should try flaperons upon landing to see just how slow it goes? I'll let yall know how it flies tomm.

one more

Tom,

Looks awesome! Jinx on the canopy, I painted mine black too, I even have the 4 screws in the same spots as you!

I maidened mine yesterday, wow what a thrill! Kept it on low rates for a while then turned it up, wow! Walls are awesome with this thing!!! I can tell right now this thing will be a great plane to learn to hover with, without a doubt. Knife edge stinks, It rolls inverted pretty bad. I'll try mixing it out.

I do have flaps and spoilerons. Let me tell you, you wont need flaps to slow down for landings, the thing basically refuses to stall.

Where is your CG set at? Mine is at 5-1/4 and when the tank gets empty, I have to hold a fair amount of down elevator to get the thing down for landing.

Hey phat,

Your spinner backplate might hit the cowl if you don't mount it 5" forward. I'd try setting the engine on the mount, and try putting the cowl on. Just slide the cowl on, and if you can push it far back enough so that the spinner backplate won't touch it, then just mount the cowl a little farther back than the instructions state.

My cg is at 6-1/2 empty, seems to be the perfect place. flies true at all throttle settings.

Here is a pic of mine:

Holy cow, OMG this thing flies awesome. So smooth on low rates but it blows my mind on high 3D rates. Flaperons are definitely not needed since I landed it in a 15mph gust with 0mph ground speed. This plane seems as if it has vector thrust, I can throw it around where ever I want to. The Saito 1.00 just pulls and pulls and is perfect for pulling out of my amateur hovers. I have a 14X4w on right now because my LHS did not have 15X4W but I think I am going to go for 15 prop as I think the 1.00 will be a little more happy with it.

My CG is @ 5.5" empty and about 5" full. I only use about 1/3 tank each flight or about 7 minutes because I like to keep my flights short until I feel comfortable with my new baby. Again it was a little to windy to tell if it was flying perfect throughout the flight.

Holy cow be carefull with the 14x4w on the Saito 100. You could easily over rev that combination.

15x4 or even 16x4 on the 1.00 - my saito .72 rips a apc 14x4w

Hi again you guys, ok, final bit of help on the buying side please.

I am getting the U-CAN-DO 46, have opted for a Saito FA-72, i think the .91 would be a bit too much for me personally.

As far as the servos go, are the Futaba S3004's ok with an S3010 for the throttle, or do i need to look at something else, cost is a BIG priority for me, the engine and plane are costing me far too much already in my opinion, lol, but that's UK prices for ya !!!

Also, would my Hitec electron 6 rx be ok for this plane? And the prop being 14X4w is correct yes?

All help appreciated please, thanks guys.

That setup will work fine. You may try adding a 6V NiMH pack to get a bit more torque and speed out of the 3004's, but in general if you are on a budget they will work fine. The 14x4w is definately the right prop to use with the Saito 72.

Thanks Coomarlin, anything else i may need to know, bearing in mind i am new to this side if things, i have never put a plane together myself, although i should be ok with it, its just a new experience for me thats all.

The 14-4w will be for fine......but after beak in. i would start with a 13-4 or 13-6

I wouldn't recommend using a 3004 on the rudder. That servo makes 40-50oz of torque, and you need something with 90-100 or so on the rudder. I've got a Hitec 5625 digital for my rudder and at 6 volts it makes 130oz of torque, and is fast too at .14 sec/60 degrees. Even at 4.8 volts you'll still have 109oz and .17 on the speed. Street price isn't too bad, around 50 bucks.

Well things changed around a bit, i did get the ucando finally (thanks to an RcUniverse member), have all the bits and pieces on order to build and fly this thing, ended up with an OS .70 Ultimate, because i got it for a song, did go for the S3004's all round, except for the rudder which has an S3010 (on a budget see), 6v nicad, and a lot of other bits and bobs, sure is getting pricey lol

Here's hoping i can put it all together ok, first time for that side of things, not buying anything else, will be using the stock parts, so here's hoping they are all ok.

Mark.v.
It is nice to see that you finally got your UCD 46. Now, stop worrying and assemble it. The servo choices you've made and the stock parts will work fine.

Hey,
I am building a UCANDO 46 and just thought I could give you my steup and see what you think.

UCD.46
Saito .91
Futaba S3004's on control surfaces.
Hitec Hs on throttle
Remote glow ignitor
GP remote fuel valve.


I'm thinking about going for long aluminum control horns as I'm not getting the surface throw i want. I have the pushrods on the outer hole on the horn and inner hole on the other end. All Expo. epa and everything on radio set to max throws. Can anyone think of a way for more throw? Thanks

Rocketman_

Thanks, i'm not worried, i can follow any instructions if they are good, and the manual for the Ucando is fabulous (although a bit of colour would be nice )

All i am waiting for is my building / starting equipment which is on its way, cheers.

ICE_MAN,

Be more specific on where you have your clevises. Having them on the outermost hole on the control horn(on the control surface itself) and the innermost hole on the SERVO arm will produce the least amount of throw. Innermost hole on the control surface, and outermost hole on the servo arm gives the most throw. I'd caution against using the inner-most hole on the control surface, as the pushrod geometry can get weird, and sometimes cause binding. You might want to think about picking up some long servo arms, put the pushrod in the outermost hole, and put the control surface clevis one hole from the furthest out. I've got mine setup this way and have about 80 degrees of elevator movement, as much rudder as I can get without hitting the elevator, and about 60-70 degrees of aileron throw(on high rates, of course).

I have a question that needs answering about the engine mounts if someone can help. I don't like the idea of tapping the threads, i don't believe it will hold tight enough, is there a problem going right through the stock engine mounts and using bolts with nuts? I would much prefer this way, and would feel safer with my setup.

You can drill all the way thur just use a nyloc nut...thats all

Lovely, thank you