RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I figured it out.. Now I wonder if I bevelt the trailing edge od the wing to 45 deg will it weakin the hinges? Prolly not , just wonder though..

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

does the stabilizer need to be epoxied to the fuse . i know it says to glue the bolts if the stabilizer isnt going to be removed, but do I need to epoxy the stabelizer to the fuse and the piece with the bolts that hold it on? I do not plan on removing it...

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I did fly for two seasons with the stab just bolted on. No need to worry of it falling off or comeing loose. What I did find was that the fuse in that area suffered from small stress cracks, so I glued mine on. I glued just the front and back of the block than bolts down on the stab, just in case I ever had to cut it out to replace it. Plenty strong with the bolts and just the ends glued.

The trailing edge of the wing is 7/16 thick, if you bevel it, it will still be 7/16 at center where the hing mounts. If your concerned about removing stock from the trailing edge of the wing, then, after peeling the coating back, just add a piece of tristock to the trailing edges. Instant bevels and perhaps straighter than the results of sanding or cutting. Good luck. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Wish I would have thought of the tri-stock on the trailing edges of wing-very good idea,will look better too. This will help get more throw to the spoilerons(spoilerons is when both ailerons are up).If you dont do 3-D,you could leave this step out,you only need it for harriers & elevators. Sounds like you got the vertical tri stock where it should be and the right idea for the blocks too. I doubt the t-nuts will come out without the hardwood block attached,I know this from experience(happened to both planes,I just glued that back on since the break was clean.If you have the slots big enough to fit the giant hinges in,I guess you might as well use them now,just get them in far enough so the hinge gap is minimal-so you can just see some light thru them up to about 1/16".Use an X-acto blade to cut out a pocket just for the hinge pivot point which is too thick to fit into the slot,that should do it. I always glue the hinges into the control surface first,then the next night test fit them to the wing,stab or fin.Sometimes additional widening of the slots becomes necessary due to slight offsetting of hinges.I use Pacer hinge glue,a water base glue,it held a 1/4 scale Su26 with OS1.60 together for 10 years,no hinge ever even came loose on that model so I can safely say its good enough for a Do.If you have a very loose fitting hinge,go with the Gorilla! Dont let any glue set up on the hinge pivot point,a little oil or grease there before glueing helps.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I have just less than 1/16" gap in both ailerons and elevators (just enough to barely see thru) so do i need to seal the hinge gaps? They both are very smooth with no resistance.. I was not aware I had to big of hinges for the plane (feel like an idiot). I did recess the hinges slightly to reduce the gap size... I will post a picture tonight when i get home from work... I am wondering if I need to shave the trailing edge down, I get alot of throw the way it is now.. How could I tell???

Setting up my radio.. I am using a Futaba 9C radio. I have read and read on setting up flaperons, ailevators and so on... I am soo confused on what settings I need to set and how much. Any help for this??? I also would not mind to give my phone number or call someone for more detailed help...

Just for the record.. The locals here do not fly 3d... they are conservative but very friendly. so tahst why I am having to ask for so much help... I really appreciate everyone's patience and assistance with my project.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hi fliggyg... I did not have the .60 size... I do have the .46...
IMO on sealing the hinges..... What can it hurt??? Will it help???? I did not seal hinges before
but now no matter what I'm putting together I seal all hinges with clear covering... When I
sealed my first hinge (DO 46) I just used scotch tape.... It lasted longer than the plane did..

Not much help on the mixes... I did try spoilerons, and flaperons, and elv/rud on the "Do 46"..
I just started with a very low setting... say 10-20% then increased it after giving it a try after
"way up high" getting a feel for it... I have since stop using the mixes for the time being...

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I didn't mean that the tee nuts would fall out. I just thought with the block glued in between the formers that you would not be able to get in there in the case of failure. I did tri stock vertically in the four corners, added just one extra dowel between the two stock ones and found that now, on ocassion, I end up poppping the threaded sleeve from the washer on the tee nuts. It seems that with being a minimal re-enforcement, its now stronger than the hardware, or else I need stronger tee nuts. I've been recycling parts from past UCD's.

I think that flutter issues were from those who used 2/56 rods, sub par connectors and weak servos. Flutter has never been an issue to date and the YS 110 would have found a weak link by now. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Finished removing the steel 4/40 linkage on the tail. Lost .8 oz. Replacement linkage is under.2 oz. as it doesn't register on the scale. The scale is calibrated in .2 increments. Ended up with cable on the pull/pull rudder and 'aluminum' 4/40 all thread with CF tube sleeves on elevator. Can you tell I'm bored? May as well swap out the aileron linkage while I'm waiting on the weather.

I found with the unequal geometry, when rudder is deflected, the steel linkage did not offer any give and was wearing on the ball links. Suprized they didn't fall off completly, considering how loose they were.

Between cycling the batteries, going over the fuel system and now the tail linkage, this is the most maintenance I've given this bird. It really doesn't ask for much, other than a good work out. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hey Bud,
Is this a different bird and what happened to the one with the fancy red/white covering job? Thought maybe you dorked it and didn't tell anyone :D. Still have the NIB UCD, but ordered a Mayhem today for the 110 FZ, we'll see how that goes. After reading some 30 pages of posts is shaping up to perhaps be a better model. We shall see in a few weeks perhaps.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

No, same one. #4. Guess I didn't make the flames big enough. It turned out to be harder to see than the original scheme. Didn't like the blues on overcast days, so I thought it would look good with flames. Went back to the original scheme, just different colors. Its now visualy enhanced for these tired eyes.

Seen a Mayhem in action and read all the good stuff on it. Impressive. Barry C. gave it a good review and he is brutally honest in evaluation. Same platform as the UCD with a bigger wing. Doesn't have the bad coupling of the UCD, just rolls slower with the big wing. I think you will like it, just not sure about your intended pattern flying, might float too much. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Ah, we'll see and if I'm not happy with it I'll slap that other kit together. BTW, what parts did you use for the cable pull pull? I still have one of Don's Kevlar setups and a Dubro 2/56 setup on the shelf that I can use either one of those. Susie still wants to know if you'll build her cabinets. She says you and Joann can stay here and enjoy the amenities until the kitchen is done :D.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I used a Dubro cable set with some slight mods on the connectors. I think I used two of the 4/40 threaded eyelets on the Extra Fun, so i was short two.

Send me a layout of the kitchen, but shipping to Fla. will be high. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

ON the UCD 60 size make sure to poor some 30 minute epoxy inside of the fuse on the firewall and lots in the landing gear hole and you won`t have any problems with it. Its a wonderful entry level 3d plane, it doesn`t harrier or do elevators well at all. It takes lots of tailweight and HP to make it flat spin. It`s really one of the all around smoothest slow flying airplanes of all time. Prop it wih a 16x6 and have funa Saito 125.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

yet another ??? .. Ok i have a lot of the plane complete.. I mounted the engine tonight... it says in the book to mount the engine 5 7/8" from firewall to backplate of spinner.. My firewall has no thrust built in so I made a shem plate out of 1/16" plywood (should be aprox. 4-5 degree from what i understand), it is only under the left side of motor mount. that should give me the right thrust.. Once mounted I noticed the left side of the motor mount was dead on 5 7/8 but the right side is 1/16' shorter... Is that the way it is suppose to be??? I am not sure if i should have split the difference... also the predrilled hole for the throttle control is on wrong side.. I will drill a new hole, do I patch the old???

Any help is appreciated...

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

You could plug the hole if you like. There will be a difference in dimensions as the engine is now angled, so measure from the center of the back plate. The 5-7/8 is an approxamation and there is plenty of cowl incase it has to be extended out. For balance, a light engine needs to be foward on the mount and a heavier engine benefits by being close to the firewall.

Don't be surprised if the thrust angle is not what your setup requires. Again, its a trial and error thing dependant on engine power and prop size. That is why I mentioned to start small, Use washers temporarilly for the angle, fly it without the cowl until it is determined, so you don't have to keep pulling the cowl everytime an adjustment is needed. Makes it easier to do break in adjustments as well.

Once set, mount your cowl without fear of having to move or enlarge the cutouts. The results are better than hacking up the cowl everytime you have to move something. When at that stage, make sure the front is cut as large as the cylinder. A generous cut out for the glow plug makes it easy to access and provides extra cooling. Good luck. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Thanks again joe, As for the shem plate.. it is 1/16" but is removable. If it is too much then I will reduce to the size of 1 washer.... My plan at least..... Also, I keep hearing all the talk about keeping the plane under 8 pounds. I am not sure how to manage that seeing how I am only putting the bare essentials on the plane and have no idea to reduce the weight if needed. Should I weigh what I have and just lay the items that I have not finished on the plane to get a rough draft weight? AS for the engine.. It is a Saito 125. I have no idea where it ranks on the weight scale.. I have already mounted the engine in the motor mounts so if it is the wrong position I guess I will have to buy new mounts... How do I know how far out to mount the engine? The factory specs say the engine weighs 24.69 oz total weight with muffler.... AS i mentioned.. i mounted it 5 7/8" from firewall on left side and the right side is 1/6" shorter.. Will this be ok? How do I tell??

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

What a thread, I dont have time to read the whole thing. I have a magnum 91fs, and was wondering which ucando it would work in, the 46 or the 60.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

FiggyG---don't worry about the weight----your UCD will fly great. If anything, your engine is somwhat big----I'm flying my UCD with a Saito 100 and it's plenty of power. However, sounds like your engine mounting dimensions are about right-----go ahead mount your cowl and fly. I've found the cowling can be moved a great deal either fore or aft to accomodate just about any engine mounting. I'd definately recommend ditching the control rods supplied with the kit and replacing with carbon fiber rods. Much stiffer----which you'll need with a 125 engine. The UCD is very light for its size and I'll guarantee that you'll be pleased---in fact, I doubt you'll be a full throttle very much. The great fun of this airframe is its SLOW speed characteristics. I typically fly my UCD (Saito 100) at half throttle)---and it's fully aerobatic at that setting.

If your engine is mounted inverted, you'll want to consider a Cline regulator. I found that inverted installations in this plane tend to result in the fuel tank siphoning (fuel tank is higher than the carb) when you fill it--and the carb tends to flood. Also, with the engine mounted inverted, I found the fuel flow to the carb can be uneven (sometimes too rich, sometimes too lean). A Cline regulator will eliminate this entirely---they cost about $60 and are worth every penny. I've had one on mhy UCD for 2 years and it works flawlessly. You also might want to consider a remote glow ignitor located somewhere conveniently on the fuse or cowl----with the engine inverted, attaching a glow driver to the glow plug can be challenging. I didn't put one on my UCD and I now wish I had.

Chris8105, I think your Magnum 91FS will be fine. I flew a UCD with an OS91FS for a couple of years and liked it. Again, I think you'll be flying your plane at half throttle most of the time---slow speed maneouvers are the real fun of this plane. 3D hovering might be marginal with the 91FS----I don't hover, so I can't comment. Again, I'd recommend a Cline regulaotr or Perry pump to solve any fuel siphoning or fuel flow problems. Get 'em assembled and fly 'em guys. For the money, I think the UCD is the hands down best buy and most fun you can have in RC......WarpedWing

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)fliggyg...

I think you will need to open up your cowl to get the air out. Before I opened mine I had a lot of overheating problems. Also, I second the idea to go to carbon fiber pushrods as an upgrade. Central Hobbies is the best place to get them.

Here's a couple of pictures of mine.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)More...
Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Barry, i would have to agree, yes, you do have sufficient air flow:D

fliggyg, just follow the instructions and you can't go wrong. If your tailheavy and can't move stuff around then at that point you can move the engine forward. If nose heavy, you have the option to move it back closer to the firewall or put the battery in the tail. For now, continue the march and deal with what comes when it comes. The reason I mentioned the cowl is that I am a perfectionist and 'thats good enough' dosen't happen in this shop. Well, I guess thats my problem. The directions are good and has put many of these in the air. You will do fine. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)The last picture is of my most recent UCD. Number 4 I think. I'm getting better and more perfectionist minded like Joe. Also, the lastest version has the mighty 110 in it. Looks inocent just sitting there, but believe me it pulls the UCD around like no other. Mine weighs 7lbs 14ozs ready to fly less fuel. And it is fun to fly. The 110 makes this a completely different airplane. At least at my altitude it does. I need the omuph.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I agree, open up the bottom of your cowling---I did mine just like Barry Crazier's above. I also use Central Hobbies pushrods---I also found the 4-40 swivel ball links made my servo connections much more precise. I'm waiting for the next price reduction on the .60 size UCD---I'd like to have another (I dorked by 2nd UCD last November). Anybody here have any feedback on the Giant UCD?? My .60 size is such fun, I'm seriously considering the Giant UCD. Regards,...WarpedWing.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

There are two threads going on now in 3D Flying forum. I think I would like to see one up close, or better yet, fly one. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)I ordered the GUCD. I just couldn't stand not having the full set. Everything I've read has been good except...a couple of people said the wing tube came through the wing. I don't worry about it much when only a couple of people have the problem. You never quite know the full story. Maybe their's was faulty, maybe not.

Anyways, I'm going to power mine with the OS160. I certainly hope it's enough. A lot of people are saying it is but there are probably at sea level.

Anyways...mine will be here tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it. Weather here is so bad, can't fly, might as well build.

Thanks
Barry