RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Good luck with it Barry. Please keep us updated on it. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I think I found a good solution to strengthen the landing gear.

I decided to simply mix epoxy with milled fiberglass. I then poured the mixture into the landing gear area about 3/16" thick and let it bond to the formers, tri-stock, etc. I did coat the machine screws with a light oil so they were not glued in place.

The result:
My son has greased all his landings till this past Sunday. It was very windy and while talking he forgot to turn his rates back. At about 10 feet a gust hit him and he over corrected sending the plane flat on it's belly from about 10 feet.

The damage:
Torn aileron hinge, broke tail wire (broken out of the rudder), front gear bent at least 15 degrees on both sides. Total repair time about an hour with no damge at all to the landing gear area.

If I built another plane known for landing gear failure I would use milled fiberglass and epoxy again!

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I maidened my UCD today.... It flew beautifully....... Very minimum clicks out of trim.. I used the recomended throws for high and low rates .. The CG is at 4 7/8" (also recomended).... I LOVE THE WAY THIS PLANE FLIES.... the biggest problem with it is getting use to a "Floater".. I am use to my cap and other sport planes... I flew twice.. both times had to take a couple fly by's to get the approach right.... however I greaes both landings...... I hovered a little.... the saito 125 is awsome in this plane!!!!! I can pull straight out the top while hovering with less than 3/4 throttle..... never even touched 1/2 throttle during normal flight.... I slowed the plane to a crwl (high altitudes) to see if I couyld get it to stall.. Very difficlt to stall this plane..

I have lots to learn concerning flying this type of plane.. Bu eager and willing to learn....

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

fliggyg
Congrats on your maiden flight! It's going to be a fun airplane and you have plenty of power... Congrats!

Steve

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Another "Do-er",the fun is just beginning! If you have mixing,another set of "stunts" is within reach. I dorked # 2 last week,doing the harriers too far away again and in a little wind,still I could have saved it on a good day. Did a nice inverted pancake landing,the canopy and fin are a little weak for landing,wonder if I should beef them up??-.It is repairable,I'm going to order another one soon,like I said,I will always have a Do.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Im gonna get this one rolling again, Ive got a .60 size Do and had a question about gluing the belly pan on, did you guys remove the covering on the wing, before attaching it? Also did anyone replace the foam tires with rubber treaded?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Since I've had 3 Do's so far, what worked best for the belly pan(keeping it on permanently)for me was using a soldering iron to remove the covering,only need to remove enough to get epoxy on the wood under the belly pan.Use belly pan and pen to draw a line,remove covering 1/16 to 1/32 in. inside the line so bare wood will not show.If any there are gaps,fill them with epoxy or any white glue/caulk.Use thin cardboard(cereal box) as spacer material at the ends when glueing.(wing on fuse) I had no problems with the wheels supplied,you should store the plane propped up off the wheels to keep them round.No type of glue seems to hold for long if the covering is not removed.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I also feel that glueing the wing saddle foam strips to the wing rather than the fuse works best. Again, I use a pen to mark the location of where I need to remove covering with soldering iron and make sure that no exposed wood will show beyond the foam.(cut inside a little)I use epoxy and masking tape to hold it while it cures.The epoxy is not affected by oil and mounting it on the fuse always comes loose sooner or later as there is less area to glue to,plus the edges of ply/balsa are loose & jagged for a poor bond.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Another qustion I have is, Im planing on using either a Cline regulator or the Ironbay regulator with an OS 91 4 stroke, what I was wanting to know is does the OS 91 create enough muffler pressure to run the regulators or will I have to pressure tap the crankcase? Also which regulator do you guys feel is better?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I never had a problem with using muffler pressure only on my Cline setup with a Saito FA100. Then I bought a YS 110FZ eliminated the problem forever and sold the Saito and Cline :D

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I have used many Clines on 2 strokes, from 40 up to 1.60 woithout a hitch, but had a problem with Cline/Saito 72.Could not get the engine to run reliably,it would quit at various throttle settings. If you are mounting the tank as recommended and have inverted the engine,I think you can go without the Cline,just make sure the carb is closed before you fuel it up and start the engine right away once you have turned on the trans/rcver for starting.Throttle cut on a switch helps doing this.Also,the setup for Cline/4 stroke calls for using the muffler tap for pressure,not the crank case tap.I think the 4 str. crank case pressure is too much for a Cline, but have never tried it to see.I have called Cline once or twice with questions,they are helpfull,might be good idea to call them about it first.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Anybody tried to put an MVVS 26 gas engine in a UCD .60 ?? will it be totally overkill or just overkill :D

joen

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Been done already, search UCD with giant gas engines or something along that line. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Well I have ran into another problem I need help with, has anyone elses nylon wing bolts been VERY hard to instal? These things are so stiff that Im worried that they will twist in half! Anyone else had this problem? Im planning on running a tap thru the threads to see if maybe they are just boogered up. What do you guys think?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hi my name is Allan I think running a tap thru first would be a great idea. Ibelieve they are usually 1/4 20 threads.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Had another flame out while pulling to hover at 10-15ft,luckily just the gear block came out and a little damage to bottom of cowl,all fixed & stronger than before. Are there any after market tail wheel assemblys that hold up to harrier landings & tail drags? I have a Sullivan & it cannot take it, I'm tired of trying to make it work,had to re-solder the rod,strengthened up the springs but its still too flexible,it bends on a normal landing,it will not take the harrier stuff. I might try the Showtimes tail wheel, it looks sturdy enough.
Got out yesterday,God what a beautiful day,almost no wind at all,sunny & 65. I got the "Do" torque rolling at 15 ft up and let it drop some,last year I never even thought of a tail touch, but now....After 2 flame outs on 2 different planes, I definately see the advantage to hovering low,shorter distance to fall,less damage, & it is more impressive looking. I didnt do any harrier landings but dragged the tail wheel several times,& then pulled to hover,fun,fun fun. My rolling harriers keep getting better but for now I dont see getting low. I needed a day like yesterday,I got my confidence back, all that happened lately was forgotten and I am improving. The Do is inexpensive and a good plane for beginning to advanced 3-D. A Pattern or IMAC flyer would rather stomp on one but you can "fake" some of that too!

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)Mixmaster...

The best tail wheel I've found for this size plane is off of the Mayhem 3D from Sig. They have them in stock and they are $17.
Here's a picture. They work great and hold up very well. Ground steering is better also.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)2nd Try.
Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Thanks for the input,I couldn't open the picture(the servers are down) but I'll try Sigs web site.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)Here's another try on the pictures. Not sure what's going on. Maybe it's me.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)There ya go.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I put on a used Showtime tail wheel(dont ask where the ST is)it seems to be better but did come loose after a nice harrier landing. I put in larger washers where the stop nuts contact the carbon fiber part & lock tighted them with just a little play to allow the wheel to turn. After the harrier landing it wobbles some now,so something slipped a little. I'll go with it as is unless more trouble developes,then I'll spring for the Mayhem tail wheel.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Well.................4th and final. Time to bow out guys. Been flying one of these since they hit the shelves. Last of the glow models and thats how it will stay. Been working on inverted flat spins and just general super stall moves, pulling out at the very last moment. Wasn't any lower than usual, just further back where the trees are taller. Very deceptive. Its been fun the past 3 years, good by old friend. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)Joe...

Sorry to hear of your loss. Even sorry to hear you may be leaving us. Hopefully you'll stay in touch. Your knowledge and work and input has been greatly appreciated. At least by me. I always read your posts.

Actually, the plane doesn't look that bad. I think you could repair it.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Joe,
Sorry, but are you sure :(:(?? Just think about all the fun you have had with the model, besides you'll have to find another home for the 110FZ:D.