I've never used them before. I would like to use the 36" x 3/16" with a 4-40 end for the elevators. For the ailerons if I use CF rods; how difficult are they to cut? And about how long should I get the initial aileron rods?

Just using 4-40 rod on mine

They are easy cut, just avoid the dust like the plague..:[X(] I used my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and dust mask. You can also just roll them under a razor blade until they are cut through.

I used the recommended JB weld and cleaned everything very well with alcohol before assembling to make sure the glue holds tight. Also, when you push the end in, you may trap a little air inside that will push the end back out if you do not do something to hold them in while the JB cures. I wrapped a loop of tape from end to end on mine while they cured.

On the this airplane (Ailerons and elevators), the CF pushrods look good, but they are so short, you almost end up with the titanium ends butted together inside the very short CF tube. In reality, the 4-40 rod would be just fine, albeit not nearly as cool looking.

For the initial length, I just measured from servo to control horn and then laid the components out on the table and extrapolated the CF tube length. Cut it, and then dry fit and recut as necessary to get it right.

Richard

Why not use titanium pro-links from H-9? Short, strong, finely adjustable. By the time you spend the money on the parts for the carbon rods for ailerons, you could use the titanium and get the same stiffness with better adjustability.

Got a call from Carla today from Planes Plus. $140 for the pair. I thought that was a good price. She asked me if I wanted a set of wheel pants and I declined. I've decided to go "pantless" from now on with this plane

I'm in the same boat as you more or less. I had a rough landing on my Kangke CAP232 120 and trashed the wing and wheel pants. The wing is $158 shipped. Not sure if I want the wheel pants ($16).

I had HT 635HB's in the ail's. They both broke on the maiden and I landed it with rudder and elevator. I'm lucky to only have wing damage and bent up gear. The fuse looks perfect. All I know is the ail's were fluttering at about half throttle before I lost them. I think I had the throws to maxed out (3D) and the reverse leverage snapped the servo shafts. Anyone using these servos, make sure you measure the screws that attach the servo arm. They should be 10mm no less. Mine were 7 or 8 mm and they snapped right where the screw ended. Also be careful using 3D throws on plastic servos with 1.25 inch long servo arms (Dubro HD). The force that the ail's put on the servos apparently snapped mine clean. That or putting blue lock tite on them weakened them. I still don't know what exactly made them snap but I have an idea or two.

I'm going with 5645's or 5945's this time. I'm not taking any chances.

I have put blue threadlock on plastic threads before and it broke right above the nut. Luckily it was on a pair of LED car windshield sprayers, and not on an expensive plane. I've never done it since

Well, I decided to fix the broken wings, they are not too bad. Probably could get by with them, but I'll get the new set going also as a spare (does it sound like I am prepping myself for another tragedy? You betcha! you never know!!!)

Here are the pics. Planes Plus is sending me 6 feet of covering with my new wings, so I should be able to fix this and the holes in the back of the fuse where the servos were..

Oh yeah, and I am hoping to put the rest of the lettering on. I cut them out and am going to try to reapply them after covering with a little 3m adhesive..

Nova,

If you cut out the original letters and they still have the Chinacote layer on the back side of them, you should be able to simply iron them back onto the new surface, if the heat does not adversely affect the vinyl and it's adhesive. Generally nothing sticks better to film covering than it does to itself. You may need to carefully clean the back side with a cloth dampened in acetone.

Also, any noteworthy items in the wing construction? Balsa or Hardwood spars? Plywood or Balsa Shear webs? Adequately Glued?

Glad to see you were able to get some covering to repair it. I recently put the gear through the bottom of my Great Planes Cap232 and although very aggravating (2nd flight [>:] ), it was not a difficult repair.

Richard.

Has anyone worked out a source for the covering? I have some damage to my vertical stab area and want to recover that section. However, none of the monokote colors match.

Regards, Matthew

Ultracote from Hanger 9.

That is what they use. I've already had to recover the rudder. Works like a charm.

Thanks! What color is the blue?

Matthew

Matthew,

I'm sorry. For some reason I though this was the EF Yak 54 forum. The Yak uses ultracote. I don't know what the Cap X uses. I have both planes, I just haven't crashed the Cap... Yet!

Sorry,
Drew

A quick update on my Cap - X...

It has been a rollercoaster ride! What a great plane to put together and it is totally beautiful in my opinion. I hated to add all the weight (over 10 ounces with a Saito 1.80). After flying 2 flights with the Saito I pulled it out to go with a FPE 2.4 gasser. The weight went from 12 lbs 2 ozs to 12 lbs 13 oz with the gasser. I could notice the increased weight in flight but I really like the way the FPE pulls it around. The Sig Extras with the FPE 2.4 motors are comming in at around 14 lbs (including the one I had) with the same wing area. The Cap - X seems to out pull them being over a pound lighter. I do have to work on my trims and put more right thrust in it as well as mix in right rudder when throttle is applied. I really enjoy this combination and would like to recommend this as a good engine selection. You can point it straight up and it will go forever but I wouldn't use the over used words of "ballistic" or "rocket" for power. The FPE 2.4 is just a great combination for 3-D or IMAC style flying with this airframe.

Take Care

Guys that are using the O.S. 1.60; what prop are you using? Or what prop would you recommend?

I am running a pro zinger 18-8 and it hauls around the capx nicely. I am mainly running that because I had one... I have also tried a mejzlic 18-8 and it was ok too. I tried a 20-6 and it was not good. If I was going to buy a prop for this plane it would either be a Menz 18-8 or possibly a Menz 18-6. Good luck.

Try the APC 18-6W, The OS should turn it between 8800-9000 rpm static.
The Pro- Zingers just don't do as well IMO, but they are quieter than the APC.

zonk

Got a voicemail over the weekend from a guy At Chip Hyde Products... New set of wings from him would be $89.95, but will take 3-4 weeks. Heck of a savings, I hope his new venture works out for him.. I got my new wings, they are still in the box. Going to recover the old ones with the white covering that Carla sent me and give it a shot this weekend.

Wow that's cheap. Kangke gouged me $150 for a new wing on my CAP232 120. I wish I had gotten the CAP-X.

Any redrilling of the firewall required to mount the os 160?

Well it's time to fly my cap!!!! Saturday is the big day cant wait to see how she flies. I put a Fox 2.4 gasser in it. It should be way overpowered . Will let ya all know sat night I just hope I bring it mack in one piece!![>:]

SOS!
I've finished my CAPX but everytime I fly it the engine overheats. I've got a Moki 1.8 with a Pitts style muffler, I recut the bottom to about three times as much as the front intakes, and I try to fly about half throttle. Each time it starts to sag I try to bring it in for a landing and the engine is running at a very high idle. I didn't cut a hole in the cowl where the head meets it (mounted sideways), should I cut a hole in the side of the cowl for the head??
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. So far the only input is someone mentioned cutting another hole in the front. Baffles maybe??
I don't know because right now I'm the one baffled! I'm throwing this one out for comments and suggestions.
Thanks!

I cut another hole in the front of the cowl for more air to come in. The hole is 2.5" x 2.5". It looks like crap, but I had the same problem w/ my moki 1.8 & pitts muffler. The engine was getting hot and cutting. After I cut the new hole, the problem went away.

The top of the new hole is about 1" below the existing holes.

Maybe it is going a little lean and getting it hot. It seems like I always have to use a pump with large glow engines to get them to run. If you have any question about the fuel flow I would try a pump. Good luck.