Here is where I put mine.... remote glow ignitor is right under the switch

What kind of remote glow ignitor is that? I like it, it is so much smaller than my Dubro....

Do I have to run the larger fuel tubing w/ the Perry pump / Moki 1.8 setup?


Drew

Do I have to run the larger fuel tubing w/ the Perry Pump / Moki 1.8 setup?

Drew

Drew,

Call me.

Wayne, do you have a Cap-X? If so I'd really like to hear your opinion on it. Mine should be finished in just a few days and Im anxious to fly it. Im just wondering how Im gonna take to a full figured plane since all Ive flown is a profile or electric in the past 8 months. But it should be over powered like a good profile with the DA 50.

Scott,

No.
I am going to help Going Vert set his up this Sunday and if the weather is half decent we will put it up.
Maybe Drew will let me have some stick.

We'll get some video also.

Like I keep telling Wayne - I'm going to set the build record for the longest time to build an ARF. I finally got that canopy on. All we have to do is drill holes in the Cowel and program the servos / radio.

I'll have Wayne stress test this one. We'll get some video!

Well again...I'll be looking forward to your opinion of it Wayne since your a Bro and an awsome pilot and can probably relate to what we are all looking for in this plane. Im really hoping that its all that an then some but I'll find out soon enough.

We never got the Cap into the air - the wind was blowing 15-20mph. I weighted mine and it came in at 12.5# w/ the moki 1.8.

I could not get the motor to run right w/ the Perry VP30. I was reading the manual and it says the tank should be vented naturally - ie no muffler pressure. Is that right? For those of you running the VP30 - are you attaching the muffler tap back into the tank or is the tank vented to the open?

Thanks,
Drew

Drew,
I run a Perry on my Moki 2.10 and vent it. There's no need for the pressure line with a pump.

The tank is vented to the atmosphere on mine per the instructions.

What kind of problems were you having with your pumped Moki? Is it brand new? What kind of breakin time does it have on it?

Richard

I too would like info on perry pump install.Like how many lines and were to.
Flew my cap x this weekend four flights all went bad.Went dead stick and all I can say is wow.
All dead sticks were from my muffler coming off,any help would be nice.I have loctited the bolt
let set 24 hours and they still fell out.

Anyway back to the plane,Man what an amazing aircraft.On my first flight I was doing rolling circles.And I have only done this on a simulator. Muffler fell off and "oh ####" I was down
wind.I thought here comes the tip stall,But no that was not to be it just glided in and set right in to a three point landing.And this was all four times.
This plane is way over powered with the moki 1.80 on it.Totally unlimited vertical,beautiful
knife edge,a little belly pitch but it can be mixed out. Tracks like it is on rails.
I will have one for a back up. Chip has got a winner here with this plane.

Anyway here is what i have in mine
Futaba
3305 on rudder and wings
3010 on elevators
1200 mah battery
moki 1.80
bisson pitts muffler
balanced perfect no weight
Will install perry pump and 20 oz. tank no other mods.

throttlestick,

You have a line from the tank to the pump (clunk line), pump to the carb, a vent line from the tank to the atmosphere, and a fill/drain line from the tank to a convenient spot. There is also a line from the crankcase pressure tap to the pump.

While this will definately keep the motor running when the muffler falls off, this will not help keep your muffler from falling off. Mine has fallen off three times since I've had the Moki. I think I was undertightening the bolts. Luckily, it doesn't fall out of the cowl easily. Last time, I really got them good and tight and it has not loosened/fallen off in 15 or so flights. Loctite does no good, the temp is too high.

I personally don't think large fuel tubing, etc... is necessary with a pump or regualtor system. I have the large tubing going from the pump to the carb, because that'e what I had on hand...

Richard

I am installing my Moki and I was wondering what is the best way to cut a hole in the cowl? The photos that Rlewis sent in look pretty good. What did you use to cut the holes?

Also I am getting ready to order a tail wheel. Why did you use a higher weight tail wheel? Was this because it was all you had or is there some other reason?

Please let me know.

Thanks

For the bottom of the cowl, I taped over the area I would be cutting with masking tape, drew lines on the tape to follow, then used a cutting tool on my dremel tool to cut just outside the lines. The used a small sanding drum to carefully finish out to the lines. The tape is used to give you a temporary surface to draw on and if you mess up you can peel it off and start over. It also will protect the finish somewhat if the tool should slip. For the glow plug hole, I just used the cutter very carefully (too small for the drum to go through).

The cutting tool I use is a 1/8 inch drill bit that cuts sideways, sort of like those roto-zip cutters, but with burrs on the side like a tile cutter. The Dremel Tile cutter is #562 and is similar to what I have. I also use Dremel #115 and Dremel #199 alot for this type of cutting....

I used the 25# tailwheel because it was in stock at the vendor I ordered from. I found out later that the 15# on was in stock at Graphtech and could be ordered directly from them. I would think the 15# would be more than sufficient fo this plane...

Richard

I've had problems w/ mufflers falling off - Try Permatex - Ultra Copper on the threads and the connection between the muffler & engine. Ultra Copper is a high temp RTV - works great!

Drew

Got a few questions for ya. What wheels is everyone using? Size? I was told 2.5" by Planes Plus, but was not sure..

How is everyone mounting your canopy, are you glueing it or screwing it in?

Just curious..

I glued it in place and then finished it w/ red electrical tape. Looks good!

I've found that by running the engine till it's normal operating temperature, then tightening the muffler bolts usually "sets" it pretty tight when it cools down and haven't had much problems. Before that I had problems a lot even with loctite.

I glued my canopy using the method in the instruction manual. I used Goop adhesive. No tape.

I used Du-bro 3" treaded lite wheels per the assembly manual. 2-1/2 would be way too small....

Richard

goop for gluing down a canopy? thats one i never heard of.... ive gooped alot of coroplast airplanes together but never tried it on covering material and canopy plastic.. It didn't discolor the material any?

I've used Goop on several canopies, etc...it doesn't seem to affect the color or other properties of the canopy/covering. It does affect the Rit dye on a dyed canopy, it removes the dye where it touches it. Not a problem if you are covering the edge tape or paint...

Richard

Just curious, is everyone able to get the 2 5/8" throw on the elevator per the instructions? The instructions say to use a 1.25" arm.. I am using a 1" aluminum that came with my Hitech Digital Servos, and am not sure if I will be able to get enough throw...

The other problem is I don't have a decent way to measure it...

I didn't measure mine in inches - just bevel to bevel. I get 50Degrees of throw w/ the airwild 1.25" arm.