Has anyone found while building the cap-x that the horizontal stab opening is to large? If so please respond to how you delt with this problem. The horizontal stab is really loose in the slot and i'm not sure if I should try and shim it. If I shim it its' gonna make it look like crap but what else can you do?

Mine was too loose as well. What I did was set it to zero incidence and super glued (CA) it in place, then I injected epoxy all around it with a syringe. Filled the gap nicely and it ain't going any place. Whe I was done you can't tell either. Looks nice.

CSTEVEC what kind of syringe did you use? Were do you pick them up. It's gonna be a pain just trying to get it to sit right it's so loose. did you use anything to hold it in place while you were measuring?

I bought a Capx and am attempting to put the wing on. The wing fits ok however the washers for the front side of the wing are too big (or the holes in the wing are too small). They will not fit through the holes in the wing. Did anyone have this problem? I am a novice builder so I maybe missing something easy. Any similar problems or suggestions? I could use the help.

I just used smaller washers for the front wing mounts

My stab fit was just right. I used epoxy to glue it in.

My washers were also too big to go through the hole. I turned them on their edge and pushed them through. It left a little dent in the edge of the hole, no problem. Then I push a 1/8" piece of fuel tubing over the bolts and they always stay in the wing. There are two different bolts for the wing, I beleive it was the long ones that go in the front.

Richard
Tomball, TX

Mke, SWMBO buys those ink jet refill kits to fill her color printer and I just used the syringe that came with that kit. Kinda expensive if you are just buyin' it for the syringe. If you check with a rural veterinarian, they sell big syringes for vaccinating farm animals, those would work very well. As to holding the stab in place, I used T-pins to position it until the CA took hold. I use ZAP CA's and that stuff really grabs when it grabs, would have probably held all by itself but I wasn't comfortable with that alone as I am putting a Brison 2.4 in mine and there will be strains and vibrations you don't get with glow motors.

Hope it helps.

Hey Guys,

I'm half way through assembling this one and I would like to let other owners know a few "bumps" in construction of this fine ARF. Some are repeats of other items in this thread but I wanted to confirm that some of these things are constant issues.

1) Every seem in the covering needs to be sealed. The covering job was outstanding with the exception of sealing the edges.

2) The black cap screws that hold the engine to the mount were horrible. I snapped two of the heads off and wasn't even putting a lot of torque on them. This was surprising since the rest of the hardware package was very good.

3) The control horns are really neat but they are not the expensive ball bearing ones. I drilled and tapped mine for 4-40 ball links.

4) My elevator servo bays were too long and I had to add some wood in order to get my servo screws on some wood.

5)*** Warning **** After installing my elevator servos, as I was pressing on the servo arms, the entire glue joint around the servo mount failed and the mounting bracket broke free. I thought it was because I may have pushed too hard on the servo so I put minimal pressure on the other servo and the same thing occurred. Nothing major and I fixed it easily with some gorilla glue but it sure made me nervous as to what would have happened if I hadn't caught the problem!

6) The instuctions call for gluing the top motor box piece in place. Since I am going with a lighter glow engine (Saito 1.80), I screwed mine in place and I'm strapping my battery to the bottom of it. It also makes accessing the fuel tank and engine compartment much easier.

Otherwise, the plane is going together quite nicely.


Shawn

Watched Bryant330L maiden his Cap-X last night. I'll say it really looks like this plane is all it's cracked up to be. Probably the first scale plane this size I've seen do a solid harrier.

I checked my elevator servo mounts pretty thoroughly during construction. Maybe the glue guy was hung over the day yours was built ...LOL

On my sixth flight (3rd of the day) Saturday, the lower two motor mount screws that hold the mount to the firewall disappeared. No damage, I guess I left them too loose since the instructions say do not crush the rubber parts. I ordered new ones from PlanePlus and will use longer bolts with lock nuts on the back side this time. They were loctited (blue) but I doubt the holes were clean enough for the loctite to stick because I filled them with vaseline when I fuelproofed the firewall. Not really a problem specific to this plane, but a lesson learned with no severe consequences.

I did manage an upright blender transitioned into a solid harrier as well as two respectable rotations in a waterfall (my first time for both)

Richard
Tomball, TX

We need details from Bryant330L.....Weight, equipement used, etc....

How was the vertical performance with the OS 1.60? Did you get to try any other 3D with the plane? Waterfalls, blenders, TR's? I know its still a new plane and you didnt want to push yourself too much, but when you do let us know.

Glad to see you got that plane in the air already and we'll definately have to get together soon and do some flying.

Scott,

If those questions were aimed at me I will answer. The wind was blowing some so I could not get a positive feel for much. That, and I only got 2 flights on it. The waterfalls were very good. Nice and tight, and could get several before it fell out. The verticle on the OS was great. I can't torque roll with a ***** so I can't tell you about that. I do know that if you knew what you were doing with it, it would not be a hard one to TR. The blender was pretty violent, but I only tried one. I know that if you turn this thing into the wind it will almost stop in a harrier. It is very stable in high alpha flight. I managed most of a harrier rolling circle but the wind was blowing me everywere. Very little of any wing rock in harrier. I didn't believe it until I tried it but it is so. Nice plane, still tore up having to add considerable weight to the nose.. Guess I'll get over it once my new cowl arrives and I can cover it up.

New cowl? What happened to your cowl.........

Glad to hear someone else with the same great results I've had......Keep us posted as you fly it more....

BTW - I posted a detailed review elswhere.....shhhhh...D..O..D...

Richard
Tomball, TX

My cowl was damaged in shipping. Planes Plus is exchanging it for me. Should be here early next week.

Hey Shawn, I thought of doing that too but aren't you afraid you might overheat the battery with the engine heat inside the cowl? I wanted to put my battery on the front of the firewall inside the cowl on my Saito 180 equipped CAP but thought the heat might be bad.

Joe

Hi All,

I just finished balancing. I had to move the 1800 Mah battery forward to a spot between the 32 oz fuel tank and the engine servo.

I am at 13.3# dry (no lead added). OS BGX (no extra cut outs in the cowl), pitts muffler, tru turn 3" spinner, JR 8411s in wing, Hitec 80 oz in tail installed, Planes Plus tail wheel, same small problems as others experienced, elevator servo blocks pushed out when installing arm, Biggest concern is loose covering, I ironed the entire plane, but I am constantly finding loose covering.

I will test run the engine on the next nice day, snow is still forecast in Chicago. Hopefully fly 1st week in April.

I am very satisfied with this ARF, I hope it performs as advertised.

John

JoeAirPilot,

If the heat inside the cowl is such that it might hurt a battery, then it's way too hot to run. The engine would seize long before the battery felt any strain.

And shawns method (the same as I used) is to strap the battery to the underside of the the engine box top. The air pressure will draw air out the bottom of the cowl and not really let much heat inside the engine box or fuse.

You can feel very safe putting it there.

The only thing I'd see wrong with putting on the firewall is lack of area to adequately pad and isolate the battery from vibration. You don't want it inthe bottom area as it cna restrict airflow out the cowl and indeed cause a higher temp... again worse on the engine than battery.

Eric, what was your finished weight?

Hello all. I am a novice builder working on my cap-x. I purchased the Du-Bro HD pull-pull system for the rudder as suggested by Chip. Now I am trying to figure out what additional connectors/hardware are needed to attach to the horns on the rudder and the servo arm. Can anyone direct me to a Du-bro or other part that are required to complete the connection. I thought that these parts would have been included in the pull-pull system. Thanks.

http://www.airwildhobbies.com/MoreIn...level=2&id=31#

John - where do you fly? I'm in Glenview.

Drew

Cant remember bring the scale home from work... I will try to get it today and get you guys a finished weight. I want to weigh my EF profile Edge too.

Drew...
He is another 107th/Lagrange flyer...

I'm going to be using the super tigre 3250 glow engine. I bought a FOX 2.4 gasser just for the plane but I just think a glow engine will work out better. Any one use a super tigre on their cap?

Richard,
I saw your pics and I have a couple questions. Did you have to drill out your aluminum control horns? I tried to use 4-40 ball links and they wont fit in the horns that Chip provided.
Second, where did you get the cool pushrods? Are they soldered? The only thing that I can find are the steel rods from Du-Bro. Please let me know.

Thanks,
Scot