Ahh the file is big to post on this thread, I uploaded on my website you can pick it up from there.

I enjoyed every moment of putting together, but the camera work could have been a bit better.

Rcshadow I think you will enjoy it, you can pickup the file from the following site http://www.shesha.net it's on the first page last link very obvious.

It's in the process of being uploaded give it atleast an hour, it's decen quality with some decent bg sound. The upload is really slow, the download will be much faster.

Shesha, thanks for the video post. Now I'll know what mine will look like once I get her done

THanks

Shesha,

Downloading the video right now ! I appreciate you doing that !

CJ

your both welcome, sorry about the camera work friend did it for me, plus the plane was not doing anything spectacular making sure the da50 on it is breaking in, will post something again once the engine has broken in and I switch out the current prop size.

I tried some basic hover the da50 is still rich to get something decent. I would also suggest that you cover the ailerons and wing gaps with clear monokote.

Other then that i's a solid plane.

Shesha,

Was wondering if you are using FM or PCM and did you run into any interference problems? I've heard that if you run your antenna parallel to pull-pull setups it could cause interference.

Also, what radio are you running

On your DA, what size tank are you running and how long can you fly for. What prop are you using

THanks

RC4Life am using the JR PCM9X under SPCM, no interference problems whatsoever. I always carry out a 100FT radio check at all times just incase someone is flying nearby.

Am running the stock fuel tank that came with the WM330 it's a decent sized tank if I am not mistaken it's 850cc i'll double check on that. At the moment am braking in the engine and honestly the flying time is suffiecient enough for me to enjoy, I never clocked it since I am still at the breaking in the final stages of breaking it in, I think it gives about 10 to 12 minutes easily.

The prop am running on the plane for the breakin is a 22x10 once broken in will be switching to 23x8

Sorry my mistake in the last comment, am not running the stock fuel tank thats a glow fuel tank, i got it swapped out at the hobby shop for another one same size but for gas.

Shesha,

In your earlier comment you mentioned, "...reinforced wing bracket to support the wings instead of the flimsy bolt nut and self tapping screw that WM incorporated...". I see in the picture the thick balsa with the blind nut, but how are you attaching the wing?

I wanted to do the same with mine.

Thanks again,
John

RC4LIFE actually that blind nut was removed afterwards, I used the blind nut initially as a drilling guide for the balsa block on the side of the fuselage. you dont have to use do the same but you can do so to avoid drill bit wondering.

Place the balsa or plywood of choice you desire to the fuselage side as can be seen from the pics i posted, make sure you dont glue the balsa now with epoxy just use ca as temporary holding glue so it would be easy for you to do any last minute adjustment should you need to. A few drop top and bottom corners will suffice.

Take a close look of the balsa wood and where you desire to open the blind nut hole going from the balsa block inside the fuselage, to the wing inner spar. Make sure they dont interfere with any other manufacturer stock opening.

Be very sure that your wings are seated correctly and tightely on the the fuselage side, go to the extent of tightening the wing bolts they may cause some deviation in the wing seating to a certain extent.

Once satisfied mark the the spot and drill with a small drill the smallest possible you have on hand just enough to use the hole as a reference point for prior final hole opening, take the drill bit and slide it in and make sure it moves freely through the hole you just did the balsa block and the inner wing spar.

Open one side of the wing where you did the small hole, slide apart the wing about 3 to 4mm and slide the drill bit it should align between the inner balsa fuselage support block hole you did and the inner wing spar, if satisfied slide the wing back in place remember the wing tube screws tight and secure and wing seated properly and gradually increase the drill bit till you achieve the blind nut hole you need, this should only be done on the wing and not the balsa, the balsa hole should be smaller to accomodate for the screw that goes through the blind nut hole.

Open a bigger hole gradually shape into a rectangular opening to slide the blind nut into the blind nut you achieved and epoxy the blind nut in position. Let it set, your done slide the wing back in and screw the allen screw to the blind nut it should seat nicely if your test hole was up to par as previously mentioned, dont forget the washer. Thats your wing support balsa screw blind nut combination.

Mae things even safer what I do is drop a little drop of threadlock blue and let it dry over night next day yuou will have a shake free screw and blind nut.

I use allen head screw for the blind nut, by using the allen key i am able to quickly fasten the wings as opposed to a screw driver type screw which is prone to head wear.

Use a good size washer to provide adequate wing load dissaption on the balsa block.

I use the dubro heavey duty horn washer bevel type and allen screw.

The plane is not with me at the moment or I would have taken pics to explain this with the pics. I will have them posted here by thursday.

If you need more clarifications post accordingly.

Shesha,

I think I follow you. Perhaps if you could give me some general measurements where you cut into the side of the wing would be helpful, so that I don't cut into a spar. Something like the distance from the leading edge back to the location of the blind nut. Also, a few pictures will be very helpful, when you get a chance of course.

Thanks again,
John

Jon, sorry for the delay here are the pics, advise accordingly if you need other info

Was flying her this weekend, p.s. weekends here are thursdays and fridays, as the engine is breaking in, one more gallon to go, the extra gets better and better, I cant imagine how she would handle with a 23x8 prop, she is still in breakin running 22x10 prop.

P.S. dont let that pic fool you, that 0 is bang on the edge of that opening for the servo wire exit hole, it's just the angle I took it at. the ending number is as it is.

Shesha,

THe pictures helped a lot. I now understand what you were explaining.

Thanks for your help...can't wait till I get mine flying

John

Am contemplating on dropping those weights out and working the cg with the fuel tank what I will do is make an additional support plate to move the weight of the fuel tank backwards, if I am not mistaken that will balance out the cg nicely.

I feel that she can do even better with more weight of her. the vertical pullouts are okay, still heavy though, compared to my hangar 9 extra 260 this baby takes a while.

Will see if I get sometime this week to work on the cg.

RC4life did you fly her yet ?

Shesha,

Haven't flown her yet.

I'm a bit behind schedule, but I definately need to put in more time to get it done. I'm planning on going to the AMA international flying site (Muncie Indiana) in early June to fly her and I want her done by then. Today I spent the day getting the optical kill switch and ignition switch installed. I should be able to run up the engine in a week or two if I push hard. I did pick up a Futable 9C PCM radio so there will be more time spent learning how to program the radio and get everything setup just right.

I'm also working on my boys Great Planes Patty Wagstaff. It too has a DA-50

Take care
John

This something I am working on when I have the time to actually finish it

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_38...tm.htm#3881110

RC any news on your maiden yet ?

I just stripped out my extra with everything going to work on her this weekend to move the fuel tank back and reposition the throttle servo and install a mini servo to handle the choke.

Will post updates soon, do tell on how the maiden went if u managed to get round to it.

Cheers

tata

Did some modifications on the extra a couple of weeks back, dropped the dead weight I installed on the back reshifted the tank backwards, and the rx / li-ons have been placed behind the rudder servo.

Saved alot of weight by doing so, the vertical is much better now, installed bigger arms on all the servos, now she floats down at full elevator up with 1/4 throttle. Wont be flying here till september once the tempratures decrease, it's at 55 degrees celcius here during the day cant even stand outside.

Will have some pics of the mods shortly.

I am going to look at swapping out the landing gear with carbon graphite to loose some more weight. Will maybe attempt at even stripping the ultracote and shaving some weight of the body here and there and see how much I can save on her.

She is one tough bird, had some hard landings, the only thing that I do recommend is removing the side flares on the landing gear, since the aluminium landing gears gets bent back and stress the flare bbackwards in to the balsa fuselage covering.

Also shifted the throttle servo into the fuel tank box, and added a micro servo for the choke. Will also be looking at adding a smoke system. The hinges are doing well so far with the amount of rates am running I might consider swapping the stock hinges with robarts.

IMHO this model would be a good transitional plane for people stepping out from nitro planes, not really a trainer but very forgiving and solid to take alot of abuse.

Hi Guy's,
I have this lovely plane sitting in the box ready to build but also can't quite decide on an engine, Was going to use a Moki 180 but I really like the OS BGX, do you think it would be too much motor for this plane??

rfw, I noticed in your pics with the OS 160 fitted you used a pitt's style muffler, was that personal choice or didn't the stock muffler fit under the plane like it shows in the instructions??

Thanks,
Loupus.

I have a G-62 on mine.

Put a gasser on it. I've seen the plane with a Moki 2.10 on it. I thought it was underpowered.

There is no bigger sin than building an anemic aerobat. Whats the point?

Loupus, my advise is to go with a gas based engine, a DA50 or even a zdz60 would be nice, this plane is definetly worth a gas setup.

Hey, I got a OS BGX 2.10 on mine and it flys great. By no means is it anemic, power to spare, unlimited vertical, and its waaaaaay lighter.
My only problem is the mess to clean up and that the motor sucks down the fuel. That motor has been great, one flip starts, all you have to do is plumb it w/ large tubing and use an aftermarket muffler.

Ted

Well my bird has retired to a breakin machine now for DA 50's upto a 3W 80. Here is a quick take of her back then in the hands of a capable local flyer.

Sorry fot he vid quality mobile phone take, I always seem to forget my cam when I need it.

http://media.putfile.com/Extra-WM

nice.
I've been havin a ball with mine. The bgx is stronger with every flight! I have WM ultimate w/ a 50 cc gasser on it for 3d, but it seems like i'm always flying the extra. My extra is the red patty wagstaff version, but I think I'll pick up the purple one for a rainy day. Ah yes, another arf in a box to clutter my basement. That says alot about this plane, cuz I the type that cant stand to have two of the same thing.

An interesting mod I made on the wing mounting system - The factory anti rotation pin is very solid, so i found a plastic fitting that neon signs use to isolate the neon tube from the sign base - it looks like a large plastic bolt with a hole thru the center - like a threaded bulkhead fitting. The inside dia. of the hole was the same as the dia of the dowel, so i cut the 'head' off of it, scuffed the inside of it and the outside if the anti-rotation dowel, and CA'ed it over the dowel. Drilled the hole in the fuse larger, and used the plastic nut to snug it down. This 'threaded - sleeve' has held up for over 100 flights, and snugs the wings to the fuse, and i didnt have to hack up the wings. I'll post pics if anybody is interested.

Ted

F2G, looks like a neat trick lets see the pics if you dont mind

here's pics, hope this works, havent uploaded pics in a long time.
This mod is one of my better ideas, it gets rid of the dreaded trailing edge gap at the root, caused by the leading edge getting snug on the other side of the tube. The hardest part is finding the plastic fittings. (neon sign manufacturers)