Thats a good idea (thread and CA), but if the screws come loose, your not going to have a working elevator anyway. Those collar screws are no more likely to come loose, than any of the easy connectors at all the servo's. Crank em down good and stop worrying. I hear so many people out here overengineering stuff. If your really worried about it, pull the lower wing after a week and check to see if you can tighten em up any. I've checked mine twice so far, and couldn't get em to go any tighter.

That was what I was talking about as well. Unfortunately I did not do a very good job of explaining What I did was make all the bends, got everything where I wanted it, then slid both wires out through the hole in the firewall where the tank neck comes through. I then wraped them with copper wire and soldered them outside the airplane.
My concen was soldering with a torch, inside the fuselage.

OK, now I understand...
What bends are you reffering too ? You don't want bends in the control rods, that will cause flex and lack of precise control. I let the rods determine where the servo had to be placed in the tray. I did put one slight bend in one rod so it would lay flat against the other rod though (very slight).

I put the control rods together just like the instruction manual shows, except that once they were set up, I removed them so I could wrap with copper wire and solder them together, outside the fuselage.

Those will never seperate on ya, thats for sure. Are ya gunna still use a collar or two on em ?

Nope, I'd have to have one big wheel collar to get around all that copper wire and solder.

You won't need it. It sounds like you made it bullet proof.

Before spending most of the day fixing that leaky pond, I managed to cut the hole for the plug and wire. I'm using a B and B Specialties ram air on the carb, so I cut that hole, too.

Thanks for the input on the elavator servo rod connection.

I'm preparing my Stuka for another web site's scale flyin, next weekend. Don't know how much will get done on the Stearman this week.

Take your time, good things are worth waiting for...

Thanks.

I know the Stearman will be a great flyer, besides looking good. It'll be worth the wait.

I've been working on the Stuka for over 2 years, so obviouslt, I'm not in too big of a hurry with it. I'm just trying to get it ready for display at the Flyin.

I was worried about the elevator setup, too. I upgraded to 4-40 rods, and used a piece of scrap aluminum to make a set screw block to tie them together. the block is about 5/8" long and 3/8"x3/8" square, and I drilled 2 parallel holes for the rods, and secured each one with 2 set screws. I put flats in the rods where the setscrews hit after I got it adjusted. I'm not worried about it anymore. I finally maidened yesterday. The landing gear now has splits in the front, due to our bumpy grass field. I wonder if GP will replace it.

Mine split on this one and my last one. Just put scotch tape over the leading and trailing edges of the landing gear, it seems to help it from spreading a little. I just live with it.

Help please,
I have a new SS and have already mounted a G38 in it but haven't flown it yet. I've read some comments on this thread and now I'm not sure if I should have just stuck with a G26 instead.(have a new one on the shelf) I like my planes over powered but not to the point where I'm flying a brick around and the G38 isn't too much heavier than the G26. Also the Stearman's airframe was designed for a heavy radial. Is this G38 going to rip off the firewall? I've re-enforced the firewall so I don't anticipate any problems but I will keep an eye on it. Looking for some input please? Thank you.

According to Andre, the G38 is perfect for it. Not too heavy at all. He approved of that other guys 50 also. Sounded a bit much to me, but Andre says that im stuck in my scale ways. I will admitt, I drive slow too, so don't listen to me
Bolt the bigblocks on the tear up the sky ! Andre says that more is usually better...

Thanks freeonthree,
I will take your advice and just fly her! I'm quite happy to agree with you. There is absolutely nothing wrong with being "stuck in your scale ways". I have a 1/4 scale Cub which I fly "scale" and there is nothing like it. It's just certain types of aircraft I like to overpower. Everyone really has their own preferences and thats what makes this hobby fun! Thanks again.

Yeah, your planes should be fine with the large engines. If Greg and Andre say so, then I have to agree.

I will be getting the Super Stearman soon. What engines do you guys think would work best? I was thinking of gas and I want plenty of power. How is the SV 26, Brillelli 26 or 36, and the Zenoah G26 or the G38? I want to go with 2.4GHz, anyone know about the Futaba Fasst 7C ? What do you guys think is the best way to go? I see that you live in Red Bluff. The person that I bought my house from, moved up there. Thanks

Yeah, I moved here from the San Fernando Valley (North Hollywood) in 1989. I don't miss LA one bit. I guess it's a real rat race down there these days compared to when I was there...
I love my SV26, but it was a battle, and now it could use some nice bearings from Boca. Im very happy with the power, but "most would want more" is what im gathering from the forums. I see that RC Showcase now has the SV26 rebaged and it now has a built in choke for $225.00. Im still not sure where their located, but the phone is in the USA.
If ya like alot of verticle, the SV26 is not what your looking for, and if I had to do it over again, I would insist on a CNC engine case. I had to make a plate for my SV26 when one of the ears broke off.

Thanks for your help. I fly most of the time in the valley at Apollo field. I live in Lawndale by the 405. It is a real pain to drive there most of the time.

Capt Ron
Check out the review at http://www.greatplanes.com/reviews/gpma1350-rcm.html. He used the G26. I just don't get it, [sm=confused.gif] what is the purpose of overpowering it. I guess some people think it is more macho to have the useless extra power [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] ... the (Tim Allan) “Home Improvement” philosophy. It is not an aerobatic plane; there is just so much you can do with it. In this instance the bigger is not the better.
I have been researching this plane for over two year, read a lot of threads and articles, spoke with a lot of experienced builders. And my conclusion is 120 to 150 four stroke or the equivalent in gas is more than adequate for this plane . I was going to use the G26 but I got a really good deal on a Saito 150. I like Saitos engines; in my experience they are very good running engines.
But the chose is yours, [sm=72_72.gif] it's your nickel.
Good Luck and Happy Flying!
Shubova

I'm gonna use a G-23 in mine. I feel that it will provide plenty of power for my flying style. I see no need to over power the airframe.

[sm=regular_smile.gif]Thanks guys. I wanted to try a gas engine. I thought that if a 36cc engine was about the same size and weight, that the extra power could come in handy in a pinch. Later I could use it in a larger plane. I was looking at the Brillelli 26-SSR at 45oz and the 36GT at 50oz. Only thing is that Scott, the one guy shop that makes the Brillelli engines, has been sick. And now orders are backed up. [sm=crying.gif]I don't want to wait three months for a engine. My other choice would be the Zenoah 26cc with the electric ignition. The Brillelli comes with a CH ignition, and I was told that CH is the best.
Has anyone tried the Futaba Fasst 7channel? What are you guys using?
Thanks for your help

Can't help you on gas engines. I have a Saito 1.80 with onboard glow tied to the throttle. i use a Spektrum 2.4 7 ch system, and it seems to work great.even with the onboard glow, and the mods on the pilot (turns his head with the rudder) my plane came in at less than 15 lbs. and I added NO lead to balance it.

Futaba fast channel must be a receiver. Never heard of em. All my stuff is standard garb.

Rexracer, what kind of on board glow are you using?