Gary, Nice avatar! [sm=lol.gif] Your right about the weather delays. Hopefully it won't ice us in up here in northwestern Alabama.

Jon N., I can definately see the twist in the fuse. That would be one hairy flying plane. Maybe VF can suggest a fix, ya never know, those guys are pretty good at it.[8D]

On a lighter note, I talked to Horizon about the damage to my Saito 120, and they said it was minimal. Cost of repair was very low. Hopefully it won't be long before I can get the next VF plane on the way.

Sanding block, plywood shim or maybe some micro ballons and epoxy will fix this problem. Sand right side until the horizontal stab lines up with the wing. If that doesn't do it, shim it up alittle on the left.

Don

Both good suggestions, but my concern would be the offset of the vertical stab and rudder. How do you straighten that out? Can you shim the vert. stab?

Jon N.,

That don't look quit right. That's probably the one I was supposed to get. I'm not that far along, yet, but I went into the shop (also known as the dining room) and set the fuse upright on the table. A level placed across the cockpit and across the horizontal stab cut-out was dead on balls, so maybe I'm ok.

I hope it works out for you.

Looks to me the stab and fin will be square with each other, maybe its the wing that needs some adjustment. See is the lower wing can be shimmed up at the fuselage opening to bring everything level and square.

If you guys spend all night lurking around RCU , you'll never get those Edge's built.

That brings us to the subject of fuel-proofing. Do you do it? Anybody got a solution that sprays on. I hate trying to fuel-proof with a brush.

Rcjon, know what you mean! This is so addictive!

Ive sprayed clear lustercote on balsa and it works ok. Stay away from the fumes of fuel proof sprays, they are pretty nasty! I have to say I still prefer coating with a brush either thinnned out epoxy or fiberglass resin. The brushed on stuff is easier to control and also reinforces the parts being coated, like the landing gear block and the inside of the firewall. so I think brush on will take a bit longer but will be more beneficial in the long run.

With the fuse alone setting on the bench level placed in the cockpit and a level on the stab mount the level on the stab mount is half a bubble off center. When i put the fin in the slot and seated properly it leans to the left viewed from behind almost 1/4 inch with the level in the cockpit between both lines. I can not count teh number of planes i have built. I know a warped fuse when i see it. Now im not saying anything bad here mistakes do happen!! The plane is built solid and the best arf i have built or seen. VF is going to take care of it[8D] They want the fuse back so they can see what happend either in the building or somehow warped in shipping so this does not happen to anyone else.
Heres a pic. If you look real hard you can just make out the lines on the levels. I had to put a white paper under one but it is in no way making the level read anything other then it should.

Is the angle of the cockpit area important? Not being a wise guy but if the stab seat is level, can you get a straight edge across the wing saddle to check versus stab seat? I'm just curious (red)

I kinda wonder if the covering process didn't have something to do with the warping. That vinyl covering is strong and tight. If the fuse wasn't properly set when the covering was applied, i.e. not enough drying time for the glue, couldn't that pull it off bubble? (no pun intended Jon N.)

Jon N
You did the right thing contacting VectorFlight. I wouldn't want to have to try and cobble up a fix for a fuse that looks that bad! It was more than obvious to me by your photos that the fuse is twisted pretty bad. Must big a big dissapointment for you waiting that long to get a Plane to have it come out of the box twisted like that. I am real sorry, and I must say real surprised to see how bad it is. One thing you have going for you is that it is a VectorFlight Plane, and they will make sure that the problem gets corrected, and I also hope that they put a rush on your new parts which I would bet that they will.

Absolutely Ray, VF will make it right, period. They have, by far, the best customer service and support I have even HEARD of in the industry.

Yup, Looks like it's a skosh off, or maybe a skosh and a half. That's too bad. I hope VF bumps another order so that they get you fixed up ASAP.

I just made my first stab at trimming the PETG cowling. Tried to cut out the air intake holes for starters. Anyone got any tips on trimming this stuff.

Jon, I used a Dremel with a 1/8" dirll bit. Starting with a hole in the middle and working outward to get it close, then use a sanding drum to fine tune it.

Calflyer,

>> Stay away from the fumes of fuel proof sprays, <<

What fun is that? <twitch, twitch> [:'(][:'(][:'(]

Luke,

Thanks, I tried various attachments for the Dremel but I didn't try a drill bit. The other cutters were gumming up too bad.

I quit working on the plane for tonight. I put in a good 8 hrs on it today and I got a lot done, but still much to do.

Didn't you have a Saito 100 mounted sideways on your plane? It looks like I'm going to have a problem routing the throttle linkage around the fuel tank.

jon

Just a clarification, Jon N goes with Grelker

Jon, I have used flexible control rods for the throttle on just about every plane I've built. I use the Sullivan Gold-n-Cable No. 508.

Gary
I checked out your Radio system. Thats a nice Radio, and it seems like you have a pretty fair price on it to. Right now I am going to see what Futaba says is wrong with my Super 6XA, and if it is not a good prognosis I am going to order me a new 9CAF. Problem with me buying a radio that is outside my freq is that I would have to send it in an have it recallibrated to match the dozen Flight Packs I have. I know that some people don't do this, but I am pretty particular about making sure my Radio is in perfect sync with my recievers, and I definately wouldn't want to think about buying a dozen new crystals for my recievers. I have several old standbuy spare radios around here that I will get by with until my Radio is fixed or until my new one comes. What bums me out was that I was wanting to get me a new VF Plane on order this week, but now I am going to wait and see how far the Radio Situation sets me back.

Luke
Do you know which Plane you are leaning towards yet? Another Edge pehaps, a Sukhoi, the Extra 66", or maybe in a different direction all together? I was looking at your cowl in the photo, and it doesn't appear to have a scratch unless the photo was taken before that faitfull day. Would make a good spare for another edge if you decide to go that route again..............hint.............hint

Yeah it was dissapointing as i had the Engine ,cowl ,wings ,fuel tank ,servos ,landing gear done but thats my falt there. I SHOULD have looked it all over better at a glance it all looked fine though. On the brite side VF is sending out a new fuse nextweek. So back to waiting

Jon
Luke has the Saito 120, and he had his mounted inverted. My Plane has the Saito 100, and it is mouted sideways. I had no trouble with the throttle, but I did mine differnt than alot of others. The Manual suggest that you relocate the throttle servo up near the tank and on the side. I mounted my throttle servo right inline with the Rudder and Elevator Servos. This allowed the linkage to come in at a little better angle, and then I just made two Z bends that make the linkage run over top of the wing joiner, and then back down to the servo. It was a pretty simple thing to do, and besides I just couldn't see not using that nice spot that is allready cut out for the throttle servo.

Bumsted.... I did that first and yes it is off there also.
IF the radio in question is a Futaba 8U(if i remember right) model all you need to do is order a frequance modual on your freq. They are just a plug in frequency change. TOTALY legal and safe as the outputs and crystal are in the modual and in tune from the factory.

Jon N.,

>>I have used flexible control rods for the throttle on just about every plane I've built. I use the Sullivan Gold-n-Cable No. 508.<<

I have some Gold-n-Cable No. 503. One of those things I bought but never used, guess it's time. I never could figure out what keeps it from bending in between supports, and my hands are too fat to secure in the rear part of a fuse. In this case, I can see using it because the distance from carb to servo is going to be only a few inches, but the distance from the throttle arm to the firewall is about 1/8 inch (pic). Do I just make a hole in the firewall large enough for the clevis to operate in? I don't see how its going to work without the sheath being bound to something.

Ray,

Thanks, it's hard to remember who has what. Please see my pic in post# 573. Is this the way your throttle control is relative to the firewall? Looks to me like some z bends and a 90^ bend or two may be needed.

Yep, it looks pretty close to the same setup. It took me a little time, but I had to just keep making bends where it needed it until it finally worked the way I wanted.