Vectorflight Edge 540 build
#101

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ORIGINAL: rcjon
ckangaroo70:
I can't help but rub it in a bit - but it was sunny, calm, and about 70 degrees today down here in Gawja. Our flying field was SRO. More pilots than we have at a fly-in. Only problem was air traffic. Honestly, I would taxi out and hold short of the runway to wait for a gap in traffic to take out.
Sorry to see those planes hanging around the hangar.
rcjon
ckangaroo70:
I can't help but rub it in a bit - but it was sunny, calm, and about 70 degrees today down here in Gawja. Our flying field was SRO. More pilots than we have at a fly-in. Only problem was air traffic. Honestly, I would taxi out and hold short of the runway to wait for a gap in traffic to take out.
Sorry to see those planes hanging around the hangar.
rcjon
Sounds like your field is a pretty active spot rcjon. I am not much for flying in a bunch of traffic though. I flew the limbo last summer at our club, and more than a half a dozen Planes were in the air all at one time. I am one that always likes to know what is going on around me, and I find it to distracting to keep track of my own Plane, and worry about where 7 or 8 others are. My Brains are not used to that kind of stimulas.
#103
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From: Fayette,
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This weekend I joined my first club. After flying my 4*40 for a warm up, I brought out the Edge. There were about 15 people there and most of them were impressed with the quality of the Vectorflight offering. One guy however, seemed to be quite "put-off" by the way the canopy sits on the plane. The picture below is probably not the best to show it, but you may can see how the curve of the canopy starts where the "instrument panel" is. Is anyone mounting thiers differently? Am I out of my mind?[
]
]
#104
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From: Harvey,
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Who cares what one guy thinks. All you have to do is fly circles around him and that will be all the proof that he needs. All the guys at my field were thoroughly impressed at the quality that VF puts into their planes. Some of them questioned VF's method of joining the wing with the plywood joiners and lack of fiberglass parts, but when I explained to them the price of these great planes and the small company from which they come from, they all agreed that it is still an excellant plane. All of them agreed of the robust design of the wing joiners and the wings themselves. Several of them commented that it should be a fast, precise plane. I think that once I put it in the air, I will have a few more VF believers over here.
My canopy is put on in almost the same fashion that yours is, Primodus. Where does this guy think it should sit on the plane? He doesn't realize what a quality product these planes really are.
Later.
My canopy is put on in almost the same fashion that yours is, Primodus. Where does this guy think it should sit on the plane? He doesn't realize what a quality product these planes really are.
Later.
#105

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Luke
Every Club has those few compulsive complainers who have plenty to say bad about other peoples Planes, but never nothing to say bad about their own. Whatever Plane they bring to the field is the best there is, and whatever you brought is not, even if it is the same dang Plane. Whatever engine they run is the best, and whatever you use is not! Now if someone wants to offer a legitimate good tip on how to do something, or share how they did it, then that is fine, but some people just gain satisfaction by trying to let you know how smart they are. Your Plane looks awesome, and your canopy is mounted the same as mine, and I think mine looks good also. Since you are knew to this Club, I think you will find that there will be three groups there, and they each hang in their own group along the Pits. You have the Big Money Flyers in Group #1, and in Group#2 you have the Know it Alls that everyone tries to avoid, and in group#3 you have the Fun Flyers who are just there to have a good time, and enjoy each others Company, and each others Planes no matter what they bring to the field to fly. I hang with group #3. Group #3 will love your VF edge once you meet all the people in group #3. Group #1 will tell you to keep your Underpriced Plane out of the air while they are Flying there Gold Mines, and Group #2 will tell you that there is something wrong with your Canopy. When someone in Group #2 finally gets a VF edge, then they will be the best thing ever at your Club!
Every Club has those few compulsive complainers who have plenty to say bad about other peoples Planes, but never nothing to say bad about their own. Whatever Plane they bring to the field is the best there is, and whatever you brought is not, even if it is the same dang Plane. Whatever engine they run is the best, and whatever you use is not! Now if someone wants to offer a legitimate good tip on how to do something, or share how they did it, then that is fine, but some people just gain satisfaction by trying to let you know how smart they are. Your Plane looks awesome, and your canopy is mounted the same as mine, and I think mine looks good also. Since you are knew to this Club, I think you will find that there will be three groups there, and they each hang in their own group along the Pits. You have the Big Money Flyers in Group #1, and in Group#2 you have the Know it Alls that everyone tries to avoid, and in group#3 you have the Fun Flyers who are just there to have a good time, and enjoy each others Company, and each others Planes no matter what they bring to the field to fly. I hang with group #3. Group #3 will love your VF edge once you meet all the people in group #3. Group #1 will tell you to keep your Underpriced Plane out of the air while they are Flying there Gold Mines, and Group #2 will tell you that there is something wrong with your Canopy. When someone in Group #2 finally gets a VF edge, then they will be the best thing ever at your Club!
#106
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From: Fayette,
AL
I don't want the thread to stray too far, just to add that I got over his statement fairly quickly. I like the outline of the VF Edge in flight. After all, that's why I bought it! (that and the LOW price!
)
)
#107
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From: Fayette,
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To move the thread back to target, here is something I have noticed recently after a few flights. The recommended roll rate is slow. I ramped mine up to just under 1" throw (up) on both sides (slightly less on the down for more axial rolls) The new settings are awesome. I am using 50% expo on the elevator as well. This helps keep the pitch sensitivity low. It seems very smooth now.
#108
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From: Anytown,
CA
Count me in group 3 anytime!!! Your exactly right CK. The nice thing is there are more people in this group, so who cares about what a few will always say. That canopy is right on where it should be, we are not talking about a stand off scale replica, which cost big $$$$ not to mention the months or years to build. Heres another one, not to offend anyone, but I am not a big fan of fiberglass cowls. Either they are too heavy or they are too thin and weak and crack prone. Many flyers I know are on their 2nd or 3rd or repaired fiberglass cowls, while mine looks as good as it was on day one, well almost! It always takes time to accept new realities, and fiberglass is a product of the 60s, while stronger and lighter engineering plastics are light years ahead in terms of strength and durability [8D]
#109

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ORIGINAL: Calflyer
Count me in group 3 anytime!!!
Count me in group 3 anytime!!!
Heres another one, not to offend anyone, but I am not a big fan of fiberglass cowls. [8D]
I really do hope they beef up the Pants before I order my next VF Plane which is going to be the Extra.
On the subject of the Canopy. I like the good heavy Mil of the Plastic used for it also. I have had some Canopies on other Planes that tended to crack very easily do to the fact that they were paper thin. I know weight is always an issue when it comes to Planes, but with todays high tech materials there is no reason for a Plane not to have both durabillity, and also be lightweight. These are not 3D Planes anyway, so aside from the wheel pants, I really like the good stout heavier type of Plastic VF uses for the Cowl and the Canopy. These two components are made to last. The belly shield is fine in my opinion, and I really see no reason for it to be much heaveir than it allready is. The only real way to inflict damage on it would be to total the Plane, and no practical type Belly Shield going to hold up to that anyway in my opinion.
#110
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From: Fayette,
AL
I'll cast my vote of support for the VF cowls and canopies as well. I also have the same opinion on the pants and belly pan. However, I would like to see them move to a better way of mounting the belly pan. Using six screws to mount it everytime gets on the nerves. A nice bolt and dowel setup would be easy and ideal IMO.
#111

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ORIGINAL: Primodus
Using six screws to mount it everytime gets on the nerves. A nice bolt and dowel setup would be easy and ideal IMO.
Using six screws to mount it everytime gets on the nerves. A nice bolt and dowel setup would be easy and ideal IMO.
#112
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From: Harvey,
LA
I also think that the factory method of mounting the belly pan is tiresome. After a few discussions with Primodus, I may try the dowel in the former/nylon bolt idea or I may fashion one out of balsa sheeting and spruce spars. Whatever method I decide on, I will definitely post here.
Gotta go pick up the Rug Rats (Kids...LOL), talk to ya later.
Gotta go pick up the Rug Rats (Kids...LOL), talk to ya later.
#113

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I went out to the shop and snapped a couple photos of my edges Belly. I wish my Digital Cam would take a little better photo, but here is a couple photos anyhow. From what I am understanding it seems that everyone is pretty well using the 3 screws in each side method. It hard to see the little brass eyes inserted in my pan from the photos, but they are there.
#114
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From: Fayette,
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Yeah, I used the six supplied screws, straight into the fuse wood. I can see already that I will have to refit/replace it soon as it is already loose.
#115

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ORIGINAL: ez2bgman
After a few discussions with Primodus, I may try the dowel in the former/nylon bolt idea or I may fashion one out of balsa sheeting and spruce spars.
After a few discussions with Primodus, I may try the dowel in the former/nylon bolt idea or I may fashion one out of balsa sheeting and spruce spars.
#116
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From: Harvey,
LA
Right now I use 2-56 hex head screws with blindnuts inside the fuselage. I epoxied the blindnuts in so they won't pop out everytime I install the belly pan. This way I can use my 2-56 ballend hex driver. Much faster than screws and holes won't wear out. I'll post a few pics later tonight of this mod as well as the mod I did to hold the trailing edge of the wing to the fuselage side.
Later.
Later.
#117

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ORIGINAL: ez2bgman
Right now I use 2-56 hex head screws with blindnuts inside the fuselage. I epoxied the blindnuts in so they won't pop out everytime I install the belly pan.
Right now I use 2-56 hex head screws with blindnuts inside the fuselage. I epoxied the blindnuts in so they won't pop out everytime I install the belly pan.
This way I can use my 2-56 ballend hex driver. Much faster than screws and holes won't wear out. I'll post a few pics later tonight of this mod as well as the mod I did to hold the trailing edge of the wing to the fuselage side.
Later.
Later.
#118
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From: Harvey,
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[[/quote]
I have just 2 extremely brief flights on mine, and the gap at the Trailing edge kind of concerned me before flying. The 2 brief flights were without incident, but it don't seem like a whole lot of dowl holdin on the wing back there. The only thing that bothers me about drawing it in is I wander what it will do to the handling of the Plane. Maybe it won't hurt anything, but to draw it in each side 1/8"-1/4" it will change the Horizontal Plane Angle of the wings some.[/quote]
I had no gap to start with. If you scroll back to one of my early posts on the first page, there is a pic there of the gapless wing/fuselage joint. You could take a 66" long straight edge and line up my leading edges. I just didn't want any gap to develop from the stresses these planes will be put through during hard aerobatics.
Here are some pics of the nylon bolt mod that I did to hold the trailing edge in tight. It didn't take much time and next to nothing in cost to do it. I used 1/2" dowel and cut 2 pieces an inch in length. I then drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then located an area about an inch behind the dowel for the wing and drilled it out to accept the 1/2" dowel. Before I drilled the 1/2" hole, I drilled a starter hole with a 1/8" bit. Stuck a small piece of toothpick in it and slid the wings into position. The toothpick marked the spot on the fuselage for the nylon bolt to pass through. This way there was no guessing or complicated measurements to make. After this step, I drilled the 1/2" hole in the root rib for the threaded dowel. I applied some Elmers Wood Glue and inserted the dowel flush with the root rib. The fit was just snug enough that I had to lightly tap it in. I then applied thin CA to the dowel face and threads. I drilled the holes in the fuselage for the 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then made two plywood doublers and epoxied them inside the fuselage over the hole for the nylon bolts for added strength. I probably didn't need the doublers, but as they say "better to have and not need, than to need and not have..." Now there is nothing short of full contact with the ground that can cause my wings to develop a gap from the fuselage.
Here are a few pics of the belly pan mod that I did too. Actually, it is some pics of the blind nuts in the fuselage.
By the way, you can see an additional hole in the fuselage between the dowel and the nylon bolts. I had originally drill straight through the fuselage side and root rib and just threaded the nylon bolts in. I didn't think the root ribs would be able to handle the stresses. That is when I redid them using the current method.
Hope these tips are useful.
Later and happy flying.
I have just 2 extremely brief flights on mine, and the gap at the Trailing edge kind of concerned me before flying. The 2 brief flights were without incident, but it don't seem like a whole lot of dowl holdin on the wing back there. The only thing that bothers me about drawing it in is I wander what it will do to the handling of the Plane. Maybe it won't hurt anything, but to draw it in each side 1/8"-1/4" it will change the Horizontal Plane Angle of the wings some.[/quote]
I had no gap to start with. If you scroll back to one of my early posts on the first page, there is a pic there of the gapless wing/fuselage joint. You could take a 66" long straight edge and line up my leading edges. I just didn't want any gap to develop from the stresses these planes will be put through during hard aerobatics.
Here are some pics of the nylon bolt mod that I did to hold the trailing edge in tight. It didn't take much time and next to nothing in cost to do it. I used 1/2" dowel and cut 2 pieces an inch in length. I then drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then located an area about an inch behind the dowel for the wing and drilled it out to accept the 1/2" dowel. Before I drilled the 1/2" hole, I drilled a starter hole with a 1/8" bit. Stuck a small piece of toothpick in it and slid the wings into position. The toothpick marked the spot on the fuselage for the nylon bolt to pass through. This way there was no guessing or complicated measurements to make. After this step, I drilled the 1/2" hole in the root rib for the threaded dowel. I applied some Elmers Wood Glue and inserted the dowel flush with the root rib. The fit was just snug enough that I had to lightly tap it in. I then applied thin CA to the dowel face and threads. I drilled the holes in the fuselage for the 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then made two plywood doublers and epoxied them inside the fuselage over the hole for the nylon bolts for added strength. I probably didn't need the doublers, but as they say "better to have and not need, than to need and not have..." Now there is nothing short of full contact with the ground that can cause my wings to develop a gap from the fuselage.
Here are a few pics of the belly pan mod that I did too. Actually, it is some pics of the blind nuts in the fuselage.
By the way, you can see an additional hole in the fuselage between the dowel and the nylon bolts. I had originally drill straight through the fuselage side and root rib and just threaded the nylon bolts in. I didn't think the root ribs would be able to handle the stresses. That is when I redid them using the current method.
Hope these tips are useful.
Later and happy flying.
#119

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WOW! Now that is impressive Gary! Very nicely done! Guess I know what I will be doing with my day off tommorrow. I will be applying some of your great ideas to my own Plane. Your photos show the details well. I hope this thread stays going for awhile so new edge owners can take advantage of some of the great ideas you have shown here. Just don't show to many good ideas like that or you will have me rebuilding my whole dang Plane.LOL
#120
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From: Fayette,
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ORIGINAL: ez2bgman
Here are some pics of the nylon bolt mod that I did to hold the trailing edge in tight. It didn't take much time and next to nothing in cost to do it. I used 1/2" dowel and cut 2 pieces an inch in length. I then drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then located an area about an inch behind the dowel for the wing and drilled it out to accept the 1/2" dowel. Before I drilled the 1/2" hole, I drilled a starter hole with a 1/8" bit. Stuck a small piece of toothpick in it and slid the wings into position. The toothpick marked the spot on the fuselage for the nylon bolt to pass through. This way there was no guessing or complicated measurements to make. After this step, I drilled the 1/2" hole in the root rib for the threaded dowel. I applied some Elmers Wood Glue and inserted the dowel flush with the root rib. The fit was just snug enough that I had to lightly tap it in. I then applied thin CA to the dowel face and threads. I drilled the holes in the fuselage for the 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then made two plywood doublers and epoxied them inside the fuselage over the hole for the nylon bolts for added strength. I probably didn't need the doublers, but as they say "better to have and not need, than to need and not have..." Now there is nothing short of full contact with the ground that can cause my wings to develop a gap from the fuselage.
Here are a few pics of the belly pan mod that I did too. Actually, it is some pics of the blind nuts in the fuselage.
By the way, you can see an additional hole in the fuselage between the dowel and the nylon bolts. I had originally drill straight through the fuselage side and root rib and just threaded the nylon bolts in. I didn't think the root ribs would be able to handle the stresses. That is when I redid them using the current method.
Hope these tips are useful.
Later and happy flying.
Here are some pics of the nylon bolt mod that I did to hold the trailing edge in tight. It didn't take much time and next to nothing in cost to do it. I used 1/2" dowel and cut 2 pieces an inch in length. I then drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then located an area about an inch behind the dowel for the wing and drilled it out to accept the 1/2" dowel. Before I drilled the 1/2" hole, I drilled a starter hole with a 1/8" bit. Stuck a small piece of toothpick in it and slid the wings into position. The toothpick marked the spot on the fuselage for the nylon bolt to pass through. This way there was no guessing or complicated measurements to make. After this step, I drilled the 1/2" hole in the root rib for the threaded dowel. I applied some Elmers Wood Glue and inserted the dowel flush with the root rib. The fit was just snug enough that I had to lightly tap it in. I then applied thin CA to the dowel face and threads. I drilled the holes in the fuselage for the 1/4-20 nylon bolts. I then made two plywood doublers and epoxied them inside the fuselage over the hole for the nylon bolts for added strength. I probably didn't need the doublers, but as they say "better to have and not need, than to need and not have..." Now there is nothing short of full contact with the ground that can cause my wings to develop a gap from the fuselage.
Here are a few pics of the belly pan mod that I did too. Actually, it is some pics of the blind nuts in the fuselage.
By the way, you can see an additional hole in the fuselage between the dowel and the nylon bolts. I had originally drill straight through the fuselage side and root rib and just threaded the nylon bolts in. I didn't think the root ribs would be able to handle the stresses. That is when I redid them using the current method.
Hope these tips are useful.
Later and happy flying.
#121
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From: Harvey,
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That's the whole idea, ck & Primodus. I gotta get you to get your plane up to par with mine...
Just joking of course.
The whole point of this thread is to share my brilliance (I mean ideas...[sm=idea.gif]) with as many people as I can. I enjoy helping others in any way that I can. I have many years of experience in the R/C hobby and I always try to make my models, whether it be cars, planes, or whatever to be the best that they can be. If that means making several modifications, than so be it. I know that VF planes fly exceptionally well out of the box. I just want mine to be able to push the envelope just a bit more. I feel with the extra effort that I took strengthening several key areas will pay off in the long run.
I will be strengthening the firewall a bit more to help put up with the brute power of the Saito 120. When I get my hinge points from the LHS tomorrow, I am also going to pick up some small diameter dowel and pin the firewall to the fuselage sides. I am just going to drill 2 holes per side into the firewall and epoxy a 1/2" long piece of dowel in there. This should make the firewall just about bullet proof. Again I will post pics of this mod as well.
Talk to yas later.
Just joking of course.The whole point of this thread is to share my brilliance (I mean ideas...[sm=idea.gif]) with as many people as I can. I enjoy helping others in any way that I can. I have many years of experience in the R/C hobby and I always try to make my models, whether it be cars, planes, or whatever to be the best that they can be. If that means making several modifications, than so be it. I know that VF planes fly exceptionally well out of the box. I just want mine to be able to push the envelope just a bit more. I feel with the extra effort that I took strengthening several key areas will pay off in the long run.
I will be strengthening the firewall a bit more to help put up with the brute power of the Saito 120. When I get my hinge points from the LHS tomorrow, I am also going to pick up some small diameter dowel and pin the firewall to the fuselage sides. I am just going to drill 2 holes per side into the firewall and epoxy a 1/2" long piece of dowel in there. This should make the firewall just about bullet proof. Again I will post pics of this mod as well.
Talk to yas later.
#122
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From: Harvey,
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Just a quick note to anyone that is looking for 'glass wheelpants. I was thinking about different manufactures that produced an Edge 540 in the same class as VF when I remembered the .60 size Edge 540 my club president came to the field with one day. It is almost identical in size to our planes. Anyway it was a Seagull models Edge 540. I just ordered a set of the 'glass pants from Horizon for only $6.99 plus $4.99 shipping for a total of $11.98. As soon as mine arrive, I will post some pics (of course). Hopefully they will hold up better than the flimsy stock ones. I think the wheelpants are the only weak area in an otherwise outstanding aircraft.
Later guys.
Later guys.
#123

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At least your pilot ought to feel nice and secure in that tough Plane! My little Platic Pilots always look like they are half scared out of thier witts(Probally for good reason). One of my Pilots in a Vmar Plane I have looks like he is ready to bail out any second. If you have read anything on here about Vmar then you will know why he looks so spooked(He Knows his goose is cooked) Nothing wrong with making them tough as long as you can do it without creating a lead sled. "When in doubt...........Build it stout!"
#124
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From: Manassas,
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I can agree with everyone else here too. You did share a lot of good ideas. Like i said i think eariler in this thread that i also used the nylon bolts to bring the L.E. gap near the fuse. But I eliminated the dowl all together. Dont know if that was a good idea or what? I used the approaiate sized threaded insert where the dowl was. It seems to have a lot of strength when i push and pull the wing around. I dont think i could use the dowl again the way ive done it.
For my belly pan i just epoxied 6 inch long bass wood strips to the inside and used 4-40 blind nuts and bolts. I kinda rushed where i was drilling the holes, and now i got a little gap where the front of the belly pan is. Thinking i can build up that area with some balsa and cover it with some of the supplyed covering. That will also help seal the area from fuel + exhaust since im routed my muffler to the underside of the cowl. (Well thats my plan though)
For my belly pan i just epoxied 6 inch long bass wood strips to the inside and used 4-40 blind nuts and bolts. I kinda rushed where i was drilling the holes, and now i got a little gap where the front of the belly pan is. Thinking i can build up that area with some balsa and cover it with some of the supplyed covering. That will also help seal the area from fuel + exhaust since im routed my muffler to the underside of the cowl. (Well thats my plan though)
#125

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Everyone claims that Sig makes a pretty good set of glass pants. I have never had any of Sigs. The Fiberglass Pants on my Great Planes Super Sportster lasted about 3 Flights, and the Great Planes pants that came with my Extra were not much better. If VF would just make them one piece, and make them the same mil as their cowl, now them would be a heck of a good set of Pants. I would even pay a little extra. I have several new split sets of Pants laying around from different projects that I didn't use cause they really were not much better quallity than that of the VF ones. Let us know what you think of the Seagull ones after you use them.


