From what I have read here they sounded like a great deal with quality.For xmas I was trying to find myself a 60 size sukhoi or edge or cap style plane to put in a 100-120 4 stroke.60 size planes are getting tough to find as the trend seems to be going bigger these days. I have SIG SE with a 61 and wanted to go the next step up.

cdublu - Me too!

Currently I see thw Top Gun Edge 540 being the one to go for, they also do a CAP 232 but I think it may be a bit too small.
There is a thread on the same model, but under SkyShark Edge not long ago...

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3372413/tm.htm]Skyshark Edge[/link]

...here you go

Well - I maidened today and in a word it was exhilarating!

I went to the field because it seemed like a great day to maiden... +2c, no wind to speak of, sunny with a few clouds. I had the field all to myself.

I finished off the SA100 break in. The only issue I seemed to have was getting the SA100 to turn at over 8K RPM's. I'm running a 15x8 Zinger on 15% Coolpower and a Saito plug... maybe it's too much? Anyway - I fiddled a lot with the top-end needle... I basically got to the point where I was as lean as it wanted to go but I could not get over 8K RPM... I can turn the top-end out 2/3 of a turn before the rpm's drop any lower than 8K. All it does when I go richer is blow more smoke but RPM's stay the same. I got the bottom end tuned perfect... 2300 RPM idle and very smooth transition to high-end, still blowing lots of smoke. I decided the engine was running well ... maybe with not as much top-end power as I'd like but enough to maiden for sure. Yes I checked the valves too

I did many a check and re-check of all linkages, batteries, etc etc. The sun came out and sent shaft of light down the runway and I thought to myself - here we go baby!

This is my first "self-maiden"... I was nervous but not worried. I had followed all the "giant scale" procedures for using the HiTec programmer, set all the geometries up as per the big boys, built heavy duty carbon control rods etc...

I rolled out, locked on at 1/2 throttle (6K RPM's) and away she went! The maiden was totally uneventfull! No trim required. None, it flew straight and level at 5K RPM (about 3/8 throttle.) I ran through the trim procedures for rudder... still none needed. Inverted it needs about 1/6 down... so I will move the CG back a smidge. Loops are nice but I need to get the engine turning a bit faster to make the verticals higher, rolls are not blazing fast on low rates but they are axial, it tracks like an arrow and carves turns beautifully with little rudder help. It looks big in the air and flys REALLY REALLY fast.

The landing was uneventfull. It took me 5 circuts and test approaches to get locked in. I needed a pretty long shallow approach. I eneded up flying to the stip with about 3 clicks of throttle and some down-eleveator, at the edge of the strip I cut throttle and continued 75ft down the strip down to about 3 ft altitude, fed ina little elevator and she toched down like a feater and rolled maybe 10 ft to a stop.

I'm lovin this plane!

The only bad thing that happend... as expected the belly pan screw hols split ina couple of places due to the fit of mine being so tight. Time to build a nice balsa one and then proceed to fly the wings off this baby!

Way TO Go Chris !!!!!!! Good maiden report !!!

good job Chris, the 15x8 is a little too much grab for the 100 if you want more r's, i get 8800 out of my 14x8 apc and also 8800 out of my 15x6 apc

I also discovered I'm still very rich on the top-end compared to what most people state ... I am at 4 turns out, I have seen people quoting from 1.5 to 2 turns out once fully broken in. It is very cold here though which requires a richer setting and the Saito threads seem very fine so you're not really moving the needle much. I am at 2 turns on my low/transition needle which is in the ballpark. According to Horizon you should be able to turn a 15x8 at 9K RPM's on a fully broken in engine... but that was an APC... the Zinger probably has too much bite since the blades don't taper... I'm going to get a spinner that fits the APC and try a 15x6 which will also help slow this rocket down a bit

I built a Balsa belly pan last night. I have little building experience but I managed to do an okay job with some hardwood rails and balsa sheeting. Covered it with Ultracoat true red and it's a near perfect match for the vinyl. The pan attaches with a dowel in front and 2 x 2/56 screws into blind nuts in the back. It worked out very nicely for a 1hr "hack" job Much better than the plastic one for durability. Now that I've done it once I know what to do when I have time to build a perfect one.

Stripped down the plane and checked everything over again last night and found no issues so I should be good to go again weather permitting. I'm getting surprisingly good run-time from my 1100mah pack too. I should be able to make quite a few flights before charging.

Oh yea - I found the stock landing gear more than adequate... if I blow a few landings I may change my mind but based on the maiden this baby touches down so soft that the gear won't be an issue. I think the key it to get it right down on the deck like 2 or 3 inches up and just let it run as long as it needs too slow down. We have 2 runway approaches where I can do this... but in the wind if I have to make one of the short approaches it's going to be more of a challenge... then again, the wind should help it slow in those situations

Cheers,
Chris.

Chris

Don't be looking to slow your edge down too much. You will find that when it is too slow it is not as crisp, expecially in tracking. It will need considerably more rudder in turns... though its good for practicing that if you do not mix it out. My experience with VF planes is that when let run they fly exceeding well, so well that after a few flights you just do not notice the speed. I always hear people commenting on their velocity, but most just don't notice if after a few flights cause they just do everything so instantly and so precisely. You don't feel like you are chasing the plane but flying with it. I usually prop by how much veritcle penetration I have and the control authority I get. The larger 2 strokes since they do not produce quite as much torque as the four strokes just lie a bit more rpm and they accelerate quicker turning a slightly smaller prop. I have flown my Edge with both a ST.90 2 stroke and a Magnum .91 4 stroke. Not sure which I like best. The Magnum is on it currently and not fully broken in yet so I have not brought it up to full power yet. I run my ST's a fair bit on the rich side because they have ample power for whatever I want, but I am in the spring when we get back to outdoor flying temps in Michigan, take it up to full song as well. Be interesting to see the comparison then.

bob branch

CRH, before you switch props.... I use a tried and true method when I try different propellers. There is a propeller load factor that can be computed for each prop. It's simple the diameter of the prop squared times the pitch. The higher the load factor, well the higher the load on your engine and less RPM's. As an example, a 13x7 prop has a load factor of 1183 while a 15x4 has a load factor of 900. Your engine will turn higher RPM's with the 15x4 than the 13x7.

i've attached the excel spread sheet that lists many different combinations. I had to save it as a text file to upload, so I hope it's formatted properly

in theory that is good (the load factor) but it doesn't take into account the flex of different props... Ie: a Zinger is a flexy noodle compared to an APC, etc. etc.

Grelker,

I heard something similar; only it was double the diameter and add the pitch.

I wonder which way is true. And, like exeter said, it doesn't take flex into consideration. Guess that's why I have a bunch of props laying around.

Try this one, nope, try that one.

The diameter squared is the correct method because it relates to the area of the circle scribed by the turning prop. Granted it doesn't take many minor variable into account, but it's a good place to start. It's better than buying 15 or 20 props....

The 15x6 with a new OS F plug turned 9000 easy today the plane flew worse but vertical semed better. FAR slower and less crisp in everything but vertical for sure. I think the plug might have had something to do with my previous low RPMs - plus the engine has more running now. I'd like to get back to the 15x8 - I'll be trying it tomorrow. I also have a 14x10 APC pattern to try (but I can't use a spinner with that.) I agree - the plane likes to fly fast.

hey guys, everything is great with my edge, just sealed the surfaces and man did that make a BIG difference!!

here are some christmas day pics with my son[8D]

Gary

Very excellent flying shots. My compliments to your photographer. I had really not considered doing the horizontal stripes on the wing bottoms since to top of the Edge wing is so distinctive to me in the air from the bottom. But on seeing yours in the air, not I may have to.

thanks,

bob branch
Harsens Island, Michigan

ps. where's your winter coat? You need thermal wear, down coat, wool hat, and mittens with ends that flop open to expose the ends of you fingers to fly in the winter, even on days when there is no snow.

Bob, living close to Death Valley national park has its advantages in the winter,(not in the summer though)

Very nice shots too. Those in flight shots are very hard to get. Good timing needed. Sounds like your having fun. Im still here twittling my thumbs. Want to get the bird back up.

Anyone here stuffed a YS 110 in this bird yet???

I need to see how best to mount one...Inverted or canted to one corner/side.

Larry

Wow - I'm jealous. I went flying yesterday... same kind of day bright blue sky, little wind, gorgeous day of flying... but it was -8c and about a 1 inch dusting of snow on the runway LOL.

I've made about 15 flights on my Edge now and I'm still very happy. The best prop for my setup is the APC 14x8 Pattern on Cool Power 30% High Performance Heli fuel. With the SA 100 I can go straight up as long as I keep the throttle on! Big open loops can be done easily at 1/2 throttle. I also shed a few Oz by using smaller wheels and removing my pilot... every little bit helps.

The only issues so far have been some minor cracking on the cowl near the exhaust which was easily repaired. My wing also developed a little side-to-side play because the extra screws I used for anti-rotation and to "synch-up" the fuse to the wing root were not holding. I used some slightly bigger screws and it is solid now.

I'm re-doing my linkage geometry on the ailerons. I got a H9 Angle Pro for Christmas and upon checking with that I found my full-throws are equal but everything in between was way off... which may have been contributing to my less than axial rolls.

Hi Chris, i also like the 14x8 apc with my 100, i only use 15% powermaster but its the only affordable fuel i have access to but it seems to fly great!
i have had the same problem with my cowl cracking and have remidied it with small pieces of ca hinge cut to the appropriate size with 6min epoxy glues to the inside and that stops the crack in its tracks
other than that ive had no issues with this plane except i would like it to be a little lighter.

Agreed - I'm at just under 8lbs ... if it were 7 or even 7.5lbs the performance would be even better, landings would be a bit slower, etc... but I am happy with mine. Its built like a tank and fits in my SUV with the wings on... so it makes a nice looking great flying "beater" plane. Because the performance is good and it's affordable I fly it in all weather conditions and I'm never worried about dinging it up.

I'm lucky re: 30%. I get the 15% CP for $15 / gallon and 30% Heli for $20 ... my LHS has GREAT fuel prices (they sell at a slight loss to keep people flying... burn more fuel, wear out more stuff, crash more planes... kinda makes sense!)

I re-measured all my surface throws and set up land-takeoff/low/med/high modes last night. I found I had done not as good a job with my linkages as I thought. When you use multi-rates any issues with uneven geometry show up. ANyway - it's all dialed in within 0.1 dergee now so it should fly even better.

The stock landing gear are holding up just fine. A set of graphite gear would help with weight... but the cost of getting them made is probably not worth it. I may also look at using my drilled out and lightened Dubro gear... every Oz helps

I am building a 73" WildHare Edge now, I really like the Edge design and stall characteristics. The WH 73" plane is built just like the 33% planes (wing tube, stab tube, easy access interior etc) - it will come in at 11lbs with a Saito 180! 23oz wing loading and INSANE power... if VF comes back I think planes that can take an OS160, big 4-stroke or small gasser that are built like the bigger planes are the way to go. There are a lot of 50cc specific planes now... but not too many planes specific for the 25cc to 40cc...

What happened to Vector ?? The website is down.[]

they went out of business....couldn't compete with flood of Arf's from Asia

here is a bump....and a question.....

I FINALLY started building my edge today......

What has been decided as far as the thrust angles for this plane.....


there was talk about using 1 degree of down and 2 degrees of right.......


I know the firewall has zero built in..and I have never set the thrust angle on a bird before....

All my past planes have had, the angles required built into the firewall....

Is there a shim that will add the angle to the supplied mount????

If so...where do I buy it???

Larry

No shim, just use washers on the engine mount to set the offset. Usually 1 washer = 1 degree for the most part.

What engine are you using and how is it mounted - inverted or 90 degree angle?