Congrats, Mark!

Mike, Skerlock has the bisson pitts on his. Berfore it was pumped, he had to restrict the exhaust tubes to get enough pressure to the tank. After the pump, whole different engine. Now we have a second plane at our field with a pumped 1.60 and it runs as good and it only had about 3 tanks through it when I saw it fly.
Thanks for all the great info, I'm bummed though. I was hoping at least the Slimline would fit in the cowl.

Mark, make sure your thrust line is right. You may have down thrust and any change in thottle will change pitch.

Hey Tom,

How did Skerlock mount the line for the pump? Where did he drill into the 160? I don't remember seeing a good place for a hole.

Mike

i took my back plate off and drilled a 1/8-1/4 off the center to give you access to be able to put a wrench on there. the rod run around the other side of the plate you can see were once you take the plate off. once installed i filled the 1/8 stub down level. hope that all makes sense....

Mike, What you do is order the pressure nipple for the fuel injected 1.60 from Tower. It replaces the top left back plate bolt. Look closely at your engine and you will see a boss cast into the case right in front of the end if the back plate bolt (top left with cylinder up). Carefully drill the bottom of the bolt hole into the case, holding the engine vertically so the shavings fall out. Put the fitting in and you're done. A hand micro drill or 1/16" at most will do.

I'm having a time trying to figure out what servos to use in my Staudacher. I really want to mount the elevator servos in the tail for ease of installation, but don't want a tail heavy bird, either.

Do you think the Hitec 225mgs would work in the tail for elevator? They are rated at 67oz @ 6V. The elevator halves on the Staud aren't very big, so it doesn't seem like it would take a lot to drive them.

Planning to use a 645MG on the rudder, and I have some Futaba 9201 (69oz) for each aileron.

Your comments are welcome.

Thanks, Tom!

Joe,

I think the 225's would be fine. The main reason is because you are only pushing one elevator half. Maybe if you needed to move it as one surface you'd need a stronger one. Plus, you're right, the Staud' has smaller elevators.

Mike

Thanks, I was hoping someone would say that. I know I've used lesser servos on larger birds before and not had any problems. I used Futaba 148s on the elevators of my G38 80" stick type plane with no probs whatsoever, so I figured the 225s would be OK.

It will definitely be easier to mount them in the tail than to mount larger ones in the wing area. Still will have to add some weight to the nose, but hopefully it won't be too much...

After installing the Hitec 225s in the tail of my Staudacher, I really didn't like the lack of strength for the elevators. So, I replaced them with some hobbico CS-65s which I've read are basically a Hitec 605. Much better torque. Also had to swap battery packs and drop from a 5-cell to a 4-cell. I think there's something about Futaba 9201s that don't like 5 cells. Every so often when I move the ailerons, one would get the shakes for a couple of seconds. The 4 cell pack works fine with them.

Can't wait to get this thing in the air. All I have left is to glue the hinges in the ailerons, seal the hinge lines and install a fuel dot for filling. Oh, and cut the cowl. I always dread doing that because I can never seem to do it right and end up with a crappy job. Thankfully, there isn't much to cut on the Staudacher. The OS 1.60 fite entirely inside the cowl, so all I have to do is cut a hole for the glow plug and needle valve, plus muffler openings.

joebob

i have the 225 install in my extra i have not flown it yet. i will try these out to see if they meet my approval. i mostly have 8411 in all me stuff so i know if i try to move the surface by hand it will be a piece of cake compared to most of my other birds. i have been putting my funtana together this past week and have yet to do anything else to the extra. at least i have the funtana all framed up ready to do a little bit more sheeting, sanding and hinging at this point and then its cover scheme time.....

Joebob, the 545's are better servos than 605's. 605's have poor centering and low sensitivity. Actually, this is true for the whole 600 series of hitec servos.

Yeah, I've read a lot about the 600 series servos centering problems. So far, the 625 and 645 I've used haven't been noticeable. The Hobbico CS65s are ones I already had, so that's why I used them.

I ended up having to add at least 12 oz of nose weight to get the Staudacher to balance. There's no way you could build it as per instructions and get it to balance unless you put a G-38 up front!

I'll fly it like this for a while and if I get crazy, I may try to mount the servos in the wing area instead of the tail. Shooting for next weekend for its maiden flight...

I am having one hell of a time with this 160FX. I know it's a muffler pressure problem, but I hate having to screw with it.

Went out today and flew a few times. A couple minutes into the third or so flight, the engine started knocking and it wouldn't rev.... crap.... overheating.

We brought it in, and, once again, tried to mess with the high end. It had no affect. We could turn it out until it came all the way out and it did nothing.

We even BYPASSED the high end screw all together. Still nothing. Then we plugged one port on the Slimline and with the bypass still there, it would actually run rich. WHATEVER.

I'm off to order a pressure fitting for it so I can run a pump.

UGHHHH!

Mike

PS On the other side of the coin, the plane flies very well, albeit with a tendancy to snap with too much or too quick of an elevator input.

Mike,

You say that when you plugged one side of the muffler exhaust it ran rich- did you then adjust the high end needle? Blocking off part of the muffler will increase fuel pressure which will make it more rich so you should need to close the needle valve some at least and very possibly the low end needle as well. You may have already said this but where is your tank mounted?

Hi Mike

There must be some reason that some people are having to buy and run a pump to have a good running engine and others don't.
If I must, I will. (BUT I WON'T LIKE IT)

The picture is the backplate of my OS 1.60. The bottom of the casing has a build up that looks like this is the place to drill.

IS THIS THE PLACE?

Great to hear you've got the CG at a comfortable location

Sucks to hear about the engine problems

Best Regards
Jim

Jet',

I only reported the Cliff's notes version of what we did. When we plugged one side of the muffler, we had also still had the High end bypassed. We mainly plugged a side of the muffler to see if it would even run rich at all!

My tank is located pretty high up in the nose of the fuselage. I tried to mount it high enough to be level with the carb and high end adjustment.

Another guy somewhere on the forum, talked about the same problem and he ended up installing a stock muffler and the plane ran perfect.


Jim,

I know what you mean. I don't really want to run a pump, 'cuz I don't think it should be necessary. I'm convinced (is 90% considered "convinced") that it's the muffler pressure. I want to run the slimline to have a smoke system, but I'd rather have a reliable engine.

Also, I don't see a pic?

Thanks,

Mike

i run the pump on my 2 OS-160 because i run all my tanks on the CG so that as the fuel runs out my CG says the same. This sometimes puts my tank in the range of 8 to 12 inches from the carb. I love the fact that i have constant fuel pressure. That OS-160 is a beast if you get those needles correct. That low end is the key as i stated in eariler post.....

Mike the picture was there ????
And 90% is close enough for government work....
I did edit the post and it showed up and I'll add it here.
I really appreciate all your pictures. I've printed them out and use them for refrence (sp)

Mike,

I'm probably not completely understanding what is going on so dont mind me but it seems like a good idea to block off one side of the muffler then see if you can get it adjusted properly if you havent already done so. By running too rich with the needle valve bypassed you proved that you probably do have enough pressure with the muffler restricted, because as i am sure you know the needle valve just restricts the fuel flow to the engine. In other words if it runs ok without the needle valve you need more fuel pressure ie. more backpressure from the muffler.

Jim,

Weird! I swear the pic wasn't there last time (I think the epoxy has finally made it's way to my brain!)

You know, I'll have to look at my engine. I don't remember a spot like that on mine (the epoxy again!). You're right though, that would be the spot I need.

Any other pics you need, just ask. I've got a digital camera and I'm not afraid to use it!


Jet',

Yup, I've thought about that. Might even try it. You know how it goes though... after spending all day trying to fix something rather than fly, you (ok, maybe just me) get tired of the whole deal. I'm going to go to the hardware store to see if I can find a nice cap or plug for it.

Stay tuned........... Get it? "Tuned"!

With all the posts regarding pumping the 160 I'm suprised people are asking about it. Just do it! This engine is a bargain and for $25 more, it will kick *$$ on anything in it's class. Guys at our field restricted the exhaust to get it to run but after pumping it and removing the restricters this motor runs like a raped ape. There is one at my field on a WM Extra (80" wing) and it has unlimited vertical. It just don't get any better, for the price or fuel economy. If you have this engine then you've decided to move up to bigger birds. This isn't your trainer with the tank 1" from the carb. Don't skimp, pump it and you'll wonder why you were so resistant to it before.

Tripacer , earlier in this thread I wrote about getting the fitting for the EFI version of the 1.40/1.60. It replaces the backplate bolt next to the needle valve. It's a hollow bolt with a barb. easiest way to do it.

h82crash

I did read your earlier post and that's when I got out my 1.60 to look at it and when I noticed the hole at the bottom of the back plate all my focus went to it.

I've reread and reread your posts and it finally got thru my thick head. I see the little hump in front of the bolt and NOW I understand! If I'm wrong let me know!

1: Take that top left bolt out and drill out into the engine.

2: Replace the top left bolt with the new one which is hollow and has a barb on the end to attach fuel tubing to.

3: Connect the check valve to the new bolt (with a short length of fuel tubing)

And continue following the instructions per Cline.

Thanks for your input. I would have understood it before but Mike keeps putting epoxy fumes in this thread.

(the epoxy again!).

The following picture and part numbers are from the O.S. website.

If you look real close to where the red arrow is pointing you can see a barbed fitting where the upper left bolt would normally be.

Description: Pressure Fitting 140EFI
Catalog Number: OSMG7909
O.S. Stock # : 29407300

Jim,

Yup, mine has the same mount. Hello?! I believe that is the spot everyone is looking for. I've already ordered the pressure fitting from Tower, but I'm off to get a pressure fitting from the hobby store. That has to be a pressure mounting hole.

Tom,

I'm right there with you. I'm pretty stubborn like that. I've got to see things for myself. I've already got a pump, so I just need to install the pressure line.

Thanks again.

Mike

I haven't done enough runs to say for sure yet, but you may not need the pump at all - just a 1-way check valve in the pressure line. I was having a lot of trouble getting my 1.60 with a Cline regulator cranked the first run of the day. Just for kicks, I removed the regulator, but left the check valve in. Needle settings were almost identical, and no problems with fuel flow. I didn't get to fly it long like that as I started getting radio glitches and cut the flight short. But, at first glance, it seems to work like a champ.

I have the check valve in line with the tank pressure line, which is driven from the crankcase pressure tap. If anyone else has done this, or has comments on it, I'd love to hear them....