I managed to get my Syssa 30cc bolted up this morning. Everything looks fine and the cowl should fit like a glove. The engine fit fine without cutting the carb hole from the template supplied by Syssa but it was so close I decided to cut it anyway. This way the hot air can pass through the fuse. Never hurts to have extra cooling.

Your caption says " it ain't lookin' good"........... But this " is" looking good. You'll love it. Brian

That looks sharp! What is the firewall to prop hub for this plane?

Also, the engine uses pins on the prop hub, or are those optional?

The firewall to backplate dimension is 5 15/16". I never use pins and I don't like the multi bolt hubs. No need for all those bolts.

Thanks. I can't wait to hear how it runs and flies.

Here is a pic of how I safty wired the exhaust bolts. I drilled a 1/16" hole through the bolt heads and added wire and solder.

Good work Zippi.

I have never had the 1st problem with the muffler bolts or anything else coming loose on my Syssa 30. And it is all box stock.. Brian

Thanks for the kind words. This engine is very well made and is small for it's size. Totally fits inside the cowl of my Rascal.

Looking Good! My Red Rascal will be here friday.

Regards,

Perry

Apparently the first batch has been sold, so I'm looking at February.

Oh well, gives me more time to make an engine choice. I was thinking Saito FG30 but from reviews they may not make the power.

JeffinTD,

If you still can't get in touch with Syssa think about the DLE 30. I had this engine on a H9 Taylorcraft and it is a power house as well. You should be able to mount an exhaust deverter on the side and still have a nice clean look. This was the way a lot of us set it up on the original Rascal 110 with a G26. The bolt pattern should fit but if not it wouldn't take much to modify it .

Looks really sharp! Loud, I would guess?

It has a little bark to it . I removed my engine this morning and cut my access hole for my spark plub boot. The firewall will get a nice coat of white paint before the engine goes back on.

Zippi,

I understand from your choice of engines that you prefer more power than the G26ei however, can you give me your thoughts on how well a G26ei would do based on your experience with the G26? I am also waiting on a blue Rascal that is due sometime in Feb. Thanks

Howard

You will not be disappointed with the g26ie. I ran a bambula 18-8 prop. I also had a Ralph Cunningham aftermarket ignition unit which draws much less current. I could not hover but knife edges and rapid climbed were a blast.

The G26 I had on my Rascal was built by Ralph Cunningham and a lot of the weight was taken off and it had Ralphs ignition so there was very little current draw. Like king_arthur1953 said, the G26 has a lot of power but it would only hold the Rascal in a hover for about 5 seconds and then it would fall off. I was running a XOAR 18X8 prop. I'll be running a VESS 18.5X5.5 prop on my Syssa. I'm expecting good results this time around.

I bought some 3 1/2" Dubro wheels that are the same diameter and thickness to replace the stock wheels and noticed that the spacers that are provided are way to short to put the wheel in the center of the wheel pants. I took the spacers off my old Rascal axles and added them to the current spacers and it worked out great.

Let me know how the fit goes with the Laser 240V please.
I was planning on fitting a Laser 180 which I have in a quater scale Cub.
It's a great engine for pulling large props and towing ie, good for scale flying, but it's a bit of a thumper and the 240V should be better for aeros / 3d.
Maybe the 300V will fit, wouldn't have to be so careful about cooling then.

The Laser 240v is a wash. Cant wait 2 months. I decided to run a Saito 2.20...

Hey guys.... is there any word coming down the pipe if Sig will be re-releasing the 40 size Rascal anytime soon in KIT or ARF? Would really like to get one.

Thanks

Not sure about the Rascal 40. Are they showing out of stock on the wesite? Got a chance to work on my Rascal this morning. Got the stab epoxied on and hope to get the vertical fin set this afternoon. It was about 40 degrees in the garage so I had to turn a little heat on the rear of the plane to get the epoxy to dry quicker. I have two ball games to go to today. Just to much going on.

Zippi,

Do you have any general comments about the quality of the new Rascal 110 or any general comparisons to the earlier versions that you have assembled.

Howard

One of the poor items on the original rascal was the grain on the shear web pieces between the top and bottom wing spar were ran longitudinally rather than vertically. The spar strips had split almost the entire length on both my wings. I discovered it when I removed the film from the wings to mod the wings for flaps.

IMO the quality of the new Rascal 110 is still there as in the original. I wish they would not have pre-hinged the control surfaces. I know that when you see an ARF and it says control surfaces are "Pre-Hinged" it looks great and less work for the modeler. But, as we all know glue in China must be at the same price as gold here in the US because they use so little of it. I just wish they would leave the planes un-hinged and cut the price a few bucks. The addition of the flaps looks good but if you think about it, for the average modeler it's just going to cost them the price of two additional servos, extenions, ball links, and control rods. This just pushes the cost of getting your new Rascal in the air even higher. IMO the flaps were not needed. If the new owners of SIG wanted to change something they should have come out with a few new colors, the addition of a floor board with a pilot, or even better quality wheels and control horns. I know that a bigger size was out of the questions as it would require re-tooling. I'm pleased with my new Rascal 110 and can't wait to get it in the air this coming Spring.

I pre-ordered mine today, they are not in Europe yet.
Personaly I welcome the edition of flaps, as landing my last rascal when there was no wind meant that it would float on for ages down the strip.