Sig Rascal 110
01-21-2012 | 01:37 PM
#576
My Feedback: (3)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Freedog,
Too bad you are so far away. I'm in SoCal. We could split the shipping cost if we bought more than one set. And Phakur, do you have any pictures of what you are talking about? Or can you explain what you mean by "landing gear straps"? I'm all for a cheaper alternative. As I tell my kids, "I'm spending my money as fast as I can, whether I want to or not."
Mike MacLean
Too bad you are so far away. I'm in SoCal. We could split the shipping cost if we bought more than one set. And Phakur, do you have any pictures of what you are talking about? Or can you explain what you mean by "landing gear straps"? I'm all for a cheaper alternative. As I tell my kids, "I'm spending my money as fast as I can, whether I want to or not."
Mike MacLean
01-21-2012 | 03:42 PM
#577
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From: Destin, FL
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Mike-
Take a look at this.
http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...=811/101.0.1.1
I just use 3/16 wire 36 inch long, and bend it in a vise (or around a 2x4) to fit around the inside of the landing gear (all the way around), cut as required, and then use these straps to hold it in place. No straps on top as it will interfere with the fit of the gear to the fuse. I just drill holes for small bolts (with nut of course) to hold it in place. Depending on plane size, you might need 4 of these straps per each leg of the landing gear.
I've done this on 60 and 120 size planes and it works fine and strengthens/stiffens the gear bur still gives on a landing.
My local hobby shop carries the 3/16 wireyou can probably find it around.
Larry
Take a look at this.
http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...=811/101.0.1.1
I just use 3/16 wire 36 inch long, and bend it in a vise (or around a 2x4) to fit around the inside of the landing gear (all the way around), cut as required, and then use these straps to hold it in place. No straps on top as it will interfere with the fit of the gear to the fuse. I just drill holes for small bolts (with nut of course) to hold it in place. Depending on plane size, you might need 4 of these straps per each leg of the landing gear.
I've done this on 60 and 120 size planes and it works fine and strengthens/stiffens the gear bur still gives on a landing.
My local hobby shop carries the 3/16 wireyou can probably find it around.
Larry
01-21-2012 | 04:37 PM
#579
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
In all the Rascal 110's I've seen at other fields and at our own Rascal 110 fly-in's I've never seen or heard of the landing gear not being strong enough to withstand normal landings or some that are not so good. The main gear on the Rascal is very strong. If this is your first Rascal 110 I would try it out before you go through the trouble and expense of adding the reinforcement to the gear. I'm not saying that the gear can't be bent I'm just saying that it's very strong and IMO it does not need to be reinforced.
01-22-2012 | 05:50 AM
#583
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From: hamilton square,
NJ
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Fellow members,
I have been flying the Rascal 110 since 2006 with an Enya R120 and the landing gear was my main issue. I fixed the landing gear issue with 3/16 music wire held in place with 5/16 U-bolts that I purchased at ACE Hardware. It's been working for me for many years without a problem.
Jim Meighan
I have been flying the Rascal 110 since 2006 with an Enya R120 and the landing gear was my main issue. I fixed the landing gear issue with 3/16 music wire held in place with 5/16 U-bolts that I purchased at ACE Hardware. It's been working for me for many years without a problem.
Jim Meighan
01-22-2012 | 01:59 PM
#584
RE: Sig Rascal 110
ORIGINAL: Zippi
rrengineer,
The main gear on the new Rascal 110 is the same as the older version. If you have a simulator you can practice those landings before taking a chance on damaging your new Rascal.
rrengineer,
The main gear on the new Rascal 110 is the same as the older version. If you have a simulator you can practice those landings before taking a chance on damaging your new Rascal.
01-22-2012 | 05:39 PM
#586
RE: Sig Rascal 110
ORIGINAL: JeffinTD
I guess I would rather the gear give before something more major breaks, but maybe something that snaps back better would be nice.
I guess I would rather the gear give before something more major breaks, but maybe something that snaps back better would be nice.
01-23-2012 | 04:13 AM
#587
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
I have to agree with JeffinTD. I'd rather the landing gear do it's job and take all the shock instead of tearing out the bottom of the plane. That's why landing gear has nylon or small metal bolts so they will shere off on impact and save the bottom of the plane. king_arthur1953, didn't realize you were flying at an abandoned crop field. I'd say your on your own there and if you go home with a plane with no damage then it's a good day. I still have to say that your average flyer at your average field really doesn't need the reinforcement on the gear. Your flying site is the exception to the rule.
01-24-2012 | 05:23 AM
#588
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From: Erie, PA
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Zippi,
How's the build coming along. Did the Syssa give you much problems? Would you order a different size standoffs or were you happy with the 5.675 size? How did the blind nut install go?? Seems that they might be a pain to get to.
As far as the wing hinge problem goes, I received a new wing and it is much better than my original. I measured again and my left aileron was a bit under an inch but the right aileron was around 1/2 inch. I was going to cut them out and re-hinge but Mike offered the new wing so I took it.
Upon further inspection of the fuselage, I found a big crack in the bottom side support sheeting and one of the stick braces came un-glued at the bottom where the cracked sheeting is. I don't think this was a shipping problem as the shipping box was in good shape. I'm a builder so I think I'll fix this myself instead of bothering Mike/Becky again. Hopefully I can get my hand/arm that far back the fuselage because I don't want to cut the covering if at all possible. If I would have noticed this problem in addition to my aileron hinge problem I would have sent the whole airplane back. When you spend a hundred or two for a plane you don't mind doing a little repair but when you spend $550 you should NOT have to do repairs right out of the box.
Zippi I'm following your posts and asking you all these questions because I'm leaning towards the Syssa. I'm finishing a LT-25 build now and then I have a Rascal 40 to put together and then I'll get to the big Rascal. Up here in Erie, PA we have a LOOONG build season!!
Thanx for all your input Zippi
How's the build coming along. Did the Syssa give you much problems? Would you order a different size standoffs or were you happy with the 5.675 size? How did the blind nut install go?? Seems that they might be a pain to get to.
As far as the wing hinge problem goes, I received a new wing and it is much better than my original. I measured again and my left aileron was a bit under an inch but the right aileron was around 1/2 inch. I was going to cut them out and re-hinge but Mike offered the new wing so I took it.
Upon further inspection of the fuselage, I found a big crack in the bottom side support sheeting and one of the stick braces came un-glued at the bottom where the cracked sheeting is. I don't think this was a shipping problem as the shipping box was in good shape. I'm a builder so I think I'll fix this myself instead of bothering Mike/Becky again. Hopefully I can get my hand/arm that far back the fuselage because I don't want to cut the covering if at all possible. If I would have noticed this problem in addition to my aileron hinge problem I would have sent the whole airplane back. When you spend a hundred or two for a plane you don't mind doing a little repair but when you spend $550 you should NOT have to do repairs right out of the box.
Zippi I'm following your posts and asking you all these questions because I'm leaning towards the Syssa. I'm finishing a LT-25 build now and then I have a Rascal 40 to put together and then I'll get to the big Rascal. Up here in Erie, PA we have a LOOONG build season!!
Thanx for all your input Zippi
01-24-2012 | 09:58 AM
#589
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
ORIGINAL: freedogg
Zippi,
How's the build coming along. Did the Syssa give you much problems? Would you order a different size standoffs or were you happy with the 5.675 size? How did the blind nut install go?? Seems that they might be a pain to get to.
As far as the wing hinge problem goes, I received a new wing and it is much better than my original. I measured again and my left aileron was a bit under an inch but the right aileron was around 1/2 inch. I was going to cut them out and re-hinge but Mike offered the new wing so I took it.
Upon further inspection of the fuselage, I found a big crack in the bottom side support sheeting and one of the stick braces came un-glued at the bottom where the cracked sheeting is. I don't think this was a shipping problem as the shipping box was in good shape. I'm a builder so I think I'll fix this myself instead of bothering Mike/Becky again. Hopefully I can get my hand/arm that far back the fuselage because I don't want to cut the covering if at all possible. If I would have noticed this problem in addition to my aileron hinge problem I would have sent the whole airplane back. When you spend a hundred or two for a plane you don't mind doing a little repair but when you spend $550 you should NOT have to do repairs right out of the box.
Zippi I'm following your posts and asking you all these questions because I'm leaning towards the Syssa. I'm finishing a LT-25 build now and then I have a Rascal 40 to put together and then I'll get to the big Rascal. Up here in Erie, PA we have a LOOONG build season!!
Thanx for all your input Zippi
Zippi,
How's the build coming along. Did the Syssa give you much problems? Would you order a different size standoffs or were you happy with the 5.675 size? How did the blind nut install go?? Seems that they might be a pain to get to.
As far as the wing hinge problem goes, I received a new wing and it is much better than my original. I measured again and my left aileron was a bit under an inch but the right aileron was around 1/2 inch. I was going to cut them out and re-hinge but Mike offered the new wing so I took it.
Upon further inspection of the fuselage, I found a big crack in the bottom side support sheeting and one of the stick braces came un-glued at the bottom where the cracked sheeting is. I don't think this was a shipping problem as the shipping box was in good shape. I'm a builder so I think I'll fix this myself instead of bothering Mike/Becky again. Hopefully I can get my hand/arm that far back the fuselage because I don't want to cut the covering if at all possible. If I would have noticed this problem in addition to my aileron hinge problem I would have sent the whole airplane back. When you spend a hundred or two for a plane you don't mind doing a little repair but when you spend $550 you should NOT have to do repairs right out of the box.
Zippi I'm following your posts and asking you all these questions because I'm leaning towards the Syssa. I'm finishing a LT-25 build now and then I have a Rascal 40 to put together and then I'll get to the big Rascal. Up here in Erie, PA we have a LOOONG build season!!
Thanx for all your input Zippi
I haven't had much time to work on my Rascal as work and my grandson's basketball games seem to alway get in the way. The stand-off's that I got were as close as you can get. I can't remember but I think I only had to add 3/8" or 1/2" spacers. There are no blind nut. You run bolts in from the inside of the fuse into the stand-off's. I't hard to get your hand and an allen wrench in there but I got it done. I did get the manual choke hooked up and I'm ready to put the cowl on next. All I have to cut on the cowl is the bottom to clear the two exhaust tubes and a small hole on the side of the cowl where I can get in and adjust the carb if need be at the field. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the windshield. All of the original Rascal 110's around here had cracked and broken windshields from the screws that hold it on and the vibration from a gasser. I've tried cutting small pieces of fuel tubing to put under the screw heads but it always come out. Anyone have any new idea's that they have done on other planes?
01-24-2012 | 10:37 AM
#590
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Skip the screw holes and use a thin bead of silicone to glue the plastic on. I've got a new Rascal coming also. Guess I'll try the electric thing for a change. Jerry.
01-25-2012 | 07:55 PM
#591
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From: Erie, PA
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Zippi do you have a simulator that has a Rascal??? I'm using Real Flight 4.5 and can't find a Rascal. I've searched the swap pages but didn't come up with anything.
01-26-2012 | 04:11 AM
#594
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
ORIGINAL: freedogg
Zippi do you have a simulator that has a Rascal??? I'm using Real Flight 4.5 and can't find a Rascal. I've searched the swap pages but didn't come up with anything.
Zippi do you have a simulator that has a Rascal??? I'm using Real Flight 4.5 and can't find a Rascal. I've searched the swap pages but didn't come up with anything.
01-27-2012 | 02:31 AM
#595
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From: Freedom, PA
RE: Sig Rascal 110
All of the original Rascal 110's around here had cracked and broken windshields from the screws that hold it on and the vibration from a gasser. I've tried cutting small pieces of fuel tubing to put under the screw heads but it always come out. Anyone have any new idea's that they have done on other planes?
Very small O-ings, or I have found small rubber backed washers at Ace Hardware, but they were approx 1/4" dia.
Very small O-ings, or I have found small rubber backed washers at Ace Hardware, but they were approx 1/4" dia.
01-27-2012 | 12:11 PM
#596
My Feedback: (51)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
ORIGINAL: 52larry52
Rascal 110 for sale on Ebay. Just saw a Rascal 110 on a new Ebay auction with a starting bid of $195, local pick up in California. No engine, cowl not cut, looks good at $195 vs $550. Anyone on the ''left'' coast interested???
Rascal 110 for sale on Ebay. Just saw a Rascal 110 on a new Ebay auction with a starting bid of $195, local pick up in California. No engine, cowl not cut, looks good at $195 vs $550. Anyone on the ''left'' coast interested???
01-28-2012 | 09:24 AM
#597
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Sig Rascal 110
I finally got a chance to work on my Rascal this morning. I got the rudder glued in, manual choke set up and secured in, and the cowl is cut and installed and came out really well. I haven't cut the hole yet for carb adjustments. I ran into a snag. Since the end of the crankshaft is not tapped for the spinner bolt I have no way to attached the spinner. Once I put the spinner back plate, prop, washer and nut there are no threads exposed to screw on an adapter.
02-01-2012 | 12:46 PM
#599
RE: Sig Rascal 110
Opened mine up yesterday and was surprised at the quality. Looks very nice. Many of the parts look to be the same supplier as Aeroworks as they are identical. I see what you mean about the throw on the ailerons. Doesn't seem like much throw but I guess I'll wait until I fly it to judge that. Overall though a nice ARF but an expensive one. I'm going to build my first large scale electric using this airframe. Rimfire 160 and 12S, should be interesting getting all that in the airframe. Jerry.
