Are those Central Hobbies pushrods?

No. My linkage setup is nothing more than a 4-40 rod put inside a .188" OD X .116" ID CF tube secured with two 4-40 nut. This is not in stone yet but looks like we may be having another Rascal 110 fly-in on Aug. 25/26 this year. Working on getting the sanction.

Oh too. Neat idea on the linkage. Does the CF tube fit tight? Brian

It's not tight but a nice fit with no slop. I guess this is the poor mans way of getting a nice CF linkage setup vs Central Hobbies pushrods.

Zipp[, we are still in Florida....nice warm weather too. Did you get the heavy hub to correct the balance? Capt,n

No need for one. I have my ignition and battery next to the firewall. My onboard battery will be under the instrument panel. I have a switch on both sides of the fuse in line with the instrument panel. Same setup as last Rascal so I hope it comes out ok. If I get some warmer weather I'll take it outside and put it together and check the CG.

Are you in Florida for good now? You've been there for a while.

King .... do you have any pics of your "wing strut support tube" ??

Getting ready to start my assembly and that mod makes sense to me. I won't tear the wing up, though, untill I have to. lol

The gear piano wire mod reenforcement mod looks good too but can't find those fancy stanoffs anywhere.

Thanx for your help King !!

p.s. why did you sell the LOF ???

Don't eat without us. We're on our way.

I will check. Both the LOF Rascal and the AMA T50 are being converted to be used as unmanned drone trainers by a friend of mine who has a training contract with the military. I sold all my Rc stuff as well as several handguns and other things I didn't need. All economy driven.

1. I have no pics of the wing strut mod on the fuselage. What I did is remove the original blind nuts and cleared the inside of the fuselage where the new blind nuts would make contact so that they would sit flat against the fuselage. I took 2 blind nuts the next size up from the original blind nuts and silver soldered them to a brass tube with the threaded side inside the tube. (Note: you will have to drill out the holes on the struts to allow clearance of the larger bolts.) You will have to find the right size tube. I got mine at the LHS. The total overall length of the tube with the blind nuts attached was such that is would snugly slide into place. I then cut 2 laminated pieced of plywood with a cutout for the tube and positioned them over the tube just inboard but against the blind nut shoulder. I installed the tube using slow cure epoxy being careful not to get any epoxy on the threads and installed the 2 retaining bolts with washers behind them to hold the tube in the current location while the epoxy cured. I then coated the laminated plywood pieces I fabricated and positioned them on each side of the tube as described before. I wedged a couple of pieces of Balsa between the plywood to hold it in place. These were later removed. After all this was done I never had any stress cracks in the fuselage from the wing struts and I flew hard.

2. I included what I did to the wings to upgrade the strut location there. I basically took a hardwood dowel and installed a Keensert recessing the Keensert a little to give me room to sand it flush with the wing after it was installed. I used the same size hardware this time. I then drilled out the old blind nut and bored out a hole to match the size of the hardwood dowel. (Note: the dowel was sized so that the OD would be larger then the shoulder of the old blind nut because I knew it had to be removed. I epoxied the hardwood dowel in place with slow cure epoxy, sanded it flush with the wing and replaced the covering.

3. I included pics of the landing gear upgrade. I also reinforced the inside of the fuselage where the landing gear mounts and used nylon bolts to attach the landing gear. My thought was if something was going to break I wanted it to be the landing gear attachment bolts. Once after this was done my receiver battery went dead and I landed in a unused but furled corn field and it sheared the landing gear bolts without damaging the landing gear. It also ripped the wing off destroying the struts and they never let go and did not damage the attachment bolts.

So all this stuff has been proven to work through all my mishaps. I also went to redundant receiver batteries after that dead battery fiasco and never had another issue. I was also able to have flight times of over an hour.

This afternoon I shredded the left wing tip on my old Sig Rascal 110. Dos any one know if the new wing set will work with the old fuselage?
Has any one made a clipped wing?

Ok guys,

Took my Rascal 110 out at 8:00am this morning for the maiden. Fueled it up, did the range check, checked all the control surfaces and all was good. Got ready to taxi out and when I advanced the throttle it died. Fire the SYSSA 30cc back up and got the same thing. Pulled the cowl off and the fuel line to the carb had a pretty good size hole. The fuel line was against one of the muffler bolts and it burned through. I headed back to the house and did a quick fix and headed back to the field. Fired the engine up, headed the plane into the wind and off she went. It took 2 clicks of down elevator and 1 click of left aileron and she was tracking like an arrow. 3 1/2 min. into the flight and it spits and sputters and the engine shut down. Dead stick. I richened up the high end thinking it got hot. I let it set for about 15 min. and fired it back up and off we go again only to have the engine shut down once again. Looks like I may have a problem with the engine getting to hot. May have to add some external ram air scoops to force air into the cowl. The SYSSA 30cc seems to have plenty of power spinning the Vess 18.5X5.5 prop. Didn't get a chance to try any fun stuff with the Rascal as I had to many issues going on. The weekend is coming.

I tried to fly mine with a new Evolution GT-26. Couldn't get it to even give a pop. Don't know whats with that, other than a faulty ignition unit. Bummer.....

Zippi,
I am by far no expert with gas engines, but from what I've read, it looks like you have plenty of open cowl for air to exit, but almost nothing for air to get in at the cylinder. Only open at the bottom creates a low pressure area and the air around the cylinder just stagnates causing the hot running. It's the same thing I run into with my old British sports cars that have a reputation for overheating.
Mike MacLean

Correct open up the area in front of the cylinder more.

Zippi isn't that engine a rear carb unit?

He is off line but yes the engine is a rear carb/ rear exhaust design.

Zip,

I think I'd try flying it without the cowl as a test. If that solves the problem, that would confirm it needs more air opening.

Also, as I'm planning pretty much the same setup, I was wondering how things came out for balance. Did you put the rudder servo in back, or have to add any weight?

I just put my engineer hat on and I am thinking about the gap from the end of the carb to the firewall. Turn on your vac and take the hose and starting 6 inches from the wall start moving it forward. You will hear the motor start speeding up. That is a result of a reduced voulume of air flowing into the hose do to the restriction to free air flow the wall is causing. The same thing happens with the carb. No to that introduce air flowing through the cowling by a hot engine heating it up on the wau to the carburator. We all know hot air is less dense than cold air. There may be some attention needed in this area. Or I could be full of it again. Just food for thought. I have seen this happen many times of everything from hot water heaters with dirty screens to my Kawasaki Voyager that fed air to the throttle body from the left side of the motor between the 2 very hot cylinder jugs to the throttle body with the air path having 2 90 degree corners. Bad design. Didn't take me long to fix that problem. Major difference in air flow feeding the air unrestricted directly from the right side on the engine where the throttle body is.

It is common practice to maintain about a 1" gap behind the carb. If you cannot have that it is best to drill a hole though the firewall for the carb to be able to pull in enough air.

This is the same setup I had with my G26 on my first Rascal. The only difference is the G26 had a side carb so there was a good size hole in the side of the cowl. That may have made the difference. As someone noted my next plan of attach is to pull the cowl off and fly it. It's all trial and error from here on out.

JeffinTD,

I have my rudder servo in the rear of the fuse. The EI and battery pack is next to the firewall inside the fuse. My onboard battery pack is setting on the landing gear block. CG came out great.

Thanks. I was going to try Syssa's ignition battery eliminator, but will run 2 li-fe packs on the Rx.

It will be interesting to hear how the engine runs without the cowl. I'm sure you have already checked, but restricted or pinched vent line can also cause an engine to run fine for a minute or two, then shut down...

changing the strut bolts is a good advice...the ones that come with it are too small and a major PITA to put on

JeffinTD,

I was getting around 7900-8000 rpm with the VESS 18.5X5.5 prop. The engine has plenty of power and can't wait to put it in a hover. Yeap, checked everything out and all is good as far as the lines. After getting the plane down after two dead sticks I felt the cowl and it was hot. Flying it without the cowl will tell for sure if it's getting to hot because of the cowl opening or maybe to lean. Just wouldn't think it's to lean as I'm running it a little on the rich side. You never know though.

I'm sure you will get it sorted out. Kinda torture to read these forums. The weather here is bad, I've got this beautiful Syssa sitting here, and the LHS says they have two packages in route to them from Sig, but no way to know if my plane is among those.

At least if the weather was better I could be flying a 50cc Reactor I just got, and have only flown once...

Tested the motor setup on my new 110 Rascal (see video link). Only thing left to do is to balance and go fly.

I am powering the plane with an Evo 35cc gas which provides plenty of thrust.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKv8-...1&feature=plcp