I just went to Tower and Sig web sites to order my Rasal 110 floats and they are discontinued. RATS!! DOUBLE RATS!! I'm searching around and looking for sugestions. Brian

How about these from Sig [link=http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/IndexText/FSIGFK001.html?E+Sig]sig float[/link]

Or these Hange 9 floats. [link=http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/Models/PowerAirplanes/Hangar9/H9J3Cub14ARF.html]1/4 scale floats[/link]

Hello All,
I'm building my first Rascal and I'm really excited to see here fly. But wondered if I may question you all on a couple of things. I am using the G26E Zenoha for my engine.
1. I see alot of you are using a 18-6? is that your breeak-in prop also?
2. How does it balance with this motor? Should I concider moving the rudder servo back with the elevator?

elit95,

I can't speak for others but on my Rascal 110 with the G26/IE I tried the XOAR 18X6 and I was getting around 7800 rpm. I tried the APC 17X6 and got around 9700 rpm. My engine is still new so the numbers should go up in time. The 18X6 gave me a little more pull with less rpm for slow flight maneuvers were as the 17X6 really made the rpm come up and made the plane more responsive on the low end. When Spring hits I have the 18X6 on the plane and we'll see how it goes. On a gasser I never use a prop for break in, I just use what I want to fly with. Gassers are a lot different than glow engines. How many times have you ever broken in a chain saw are a weed eater engine??? I have all of my servos in the rear and there was no issue with the CG.

Zippi,
Why thanks for the quick response, I'm going straight to the garage to cut a hole for the rudder servo. Good or bad if someone else is doing it then I can't crazy all by myself. I have ordered a Dave Patrick nose cone and I'm having it precut for a 18-6 prop so we will see how that goes. Are you squezzing the igintion battery and igntion in around the fuel tank? I think it should fit?? my motor is in the mail yet??

I wrapped my EI in foam and put it next to the firewall. My Battery pack is about in the middle of the cabin. I used the Tru Turn 3-1/2" Spinner (Ultimate) which really makes the plane look good. A lot of us with the Rascal 110 are using the [link=http://bennettbuilt.com/page2.htm]B&B Specialties Exhaust Header[/link] which fits really snug to the cowl. A little louder than a regular muffler but not to bad.

I am pretty much the same as Zippi. I run a Zenoah g26EI. I am running a APC 18-6W prop. I use the same exhaust but I sent my engine to Ralph Cunningham and he modified it so I could turn my carb 180 degrees so the adjustments are away from the prop. I put a hatch in the bottom of my Rascal after the ignition battery that was mounted behind the firewall exploded blowing out 3 walls of the nose. I now have the electronic ignition mounted in the nose but not wrapped so the heat can dissipate easier. The battery is behind the cockpit area. There are a few other modes various builder have added and it is worth you time to read through the entire thread.

Thanks Ron And Zippi,

I have read through this thead and made several choices because of everyones experiences. I have ordered the B&B header but they are closed all of January. I'm excited to get it but it's still pretty cold in Iowa. I just can't rest till the planes are engineered, built and ready to fly. Then check and recheck before the madien. I actually have 4 planes all going on at once for my son and I, I work on one till I need something go to the next and so on..... .

I really appreicate the advice and can't wait to do some Rascal flying!

Jim how is the build going? I pull away from my AMR 50Trainer build long enough today to hinge the flaps on the Rascal and install the top side fillers. I am really happy with the results. Tonorrow I will do a little sanding and start applying Balsarite. Next week it will go to one of my fellow club mates to cover. He is awesome at covering and I want the Rascal to look like a stock plane other than the flaps.

Ron,

The flaps look great. I'm curious as to what the Rascal will do now with the flaps. I wonder if the ailerons effectiveness will suffer due to their downsize???

I did not alter the ailerons. I am expecting nice slow landings with a little throttle added. I am also looking forward to being able to loose altitude quickly and landing without circleing for 1/2 hour.

I guess I keep thinking about my other planes with full length ailerons. Another club member bought a Rascal 110 off RCU. We should have a few this spring fly in our club.

I will keep you guys posted how the flaps affect the flight characteristics. It is not a really difficult mod but id does take time and requires pulling off the covering of the wing. I should get the covering started next week.

Ron,
our Rascal Build is going well we have our G26E mounted and the cowl cut around the carb. But, B&B is close all of January so we haven't been able to order our muffler yet. I bought a Vortex brand 3" spinner and custom cut and was very disapointed. The back plate was oversized for the motor shaft so you have to use this wafer thin shim to decrease the O.D. to fit the shaft. Pain in the you know what! Does the trueturn spinners have the right size bore? Love your flap project can't wait to see and here more.

Help! I have a Rascal 110 with an OS 1.60fx. one of the blind nuts for the wing struts stripped out. My factory covering is perfect and I hate to think I would have to peel it back (and possibly ruin it) just to replace a blind nut. Anyone have a fix that does not require deskinning this beautiful plane?

Jim I am glad it's coming along well. Are you doing any of the mods before her maiden flight? Zippi help Jim out with the tru-turn info. I used a differ off brand and I had to put a bushing in it also.

Mr67stang I can't think of anything other than removing a small section of covering around the blind nut, removing a section of the skin and replaces it with a new blind nut epoxied in place. It will be a bit of surgery but since the fastener is on the leading edge side of the spar is should be doable without disturbing the transparent film.

Mr. Stang. I drilled mine out, epoxied in a hardwood dowl, and then drilled and tapped for
4-40.

Great idea. Something like a Keensert could be installed in the dowel and it would then have steel threads. Keenserts can be purchased in stainless steel also.

Great idea!

The white is of course on top of the red transparent and the blind nut is not accessable by just removing the white as there is balsa sheeting covering where the blind nut is located. [:@] Why couldn't the blind nut in the fuse be the one that stripped.

Jim,

If you look back I posted a pic of the 3 1/2" True Turn spinner that I used and the fit was perfect. I can't remember if the back plate fit perfect or If I had to use a plastic shim. Either way it works great. If your using a stock G26/EI the crank may be a different size. My G26/EI came from Ralph at RC Ignition and it uses a 5/16" bolt, it does not have a threaded shaft coming out of the engine.

Mrstang you will no doubt have to do more than removing the film. I guess I didn't make myself clear. Now as far as the wing strut bolts in the fuselage go, many of us have added support to the fuselage area to help support the fuselage at the point where the struts bolt on. Here is what I did. I took a piece of brass tubing and silver soldered blind nuts in them one size larger than what is currently in the fuselage. The tubing is sized such that when the existing blind nuts and the pieces of balsa holding them are removed, the tube/nut assembly goes from one side of the fuselage to the other. I bolted it in place using washers rather than the struts then used slow epoxy to cement it in place. Make sure no epoxy gets on the bolts or threads. After it is all cured remove the bolts and install the struts and go fly.

I think the suggestion of adding a hardwood dowel in the wing is a good one. I have had several issues with the quality of the Rascal all related the ARF building techniques.

I can't take credit for the idea. One day when I landed with the strut dangling loose, one of the old timers in my club suggested fixing it that way. I figured if one stripped the others would sooner or later. So, I put the hardwood dowl in the wings and fuse.

Ron,
You mentioned if we have done any of the modifications what are you refering too??
Zippy,
your right ours does have a threaded shaft not a bolt. But I pretty sure it's still 5/16" I might have to lookinto the TrueTurn

The fuselage strut reinforcement is a big one. Another is reinforcing the landing gear block. I have had to straighten the landing gear several times until I added the Bennett Built landing gear reinforcement rods. I also added a hatch on the bottom of the fuselage just behind the firewall to access that area easier. My electronic ignition is mounted there above the fuel tank. I built a bracket to hold it and it is zip tied there without any foam around it so the unit stays cool. I think this was most of the mods. There are pics throughout the trad of most of these. If you need some specific pics or more info send me a PM and I will help all I can. Also look real hard through the transparent covering on the wing at the ribs and spar webbing looking for shipping damage. Several people have had damage. I sent the 1st Rascal back I received for damage there. When I took the film off my current Rascal to do the flap mod there were several ribs and webbing that has cracks but nothing was missing so I was able to simply CA everything.

Now don't get me wrong. The Rascal 110 is an awesome plane. It is however an ARF and suffers from some of the quick build techniques that many ARF kits have for example running the grain on the spar weds the wrong direction.

Ron,
Thank for the info. Tes I have proformed some of those mods, the extra hatch under the fuel tank. I don't know if that electronics/battery installaton could of been possible without that hatch. I have not done anything with gear or strut mounts. Is the gear mount that soft or some unfortonate lands to blame? Beefing up the gear mount have you or anyone came up with anything special? other than more wood and glue?

Have you guys heard that Scott Christenson(SP?) from SIG and designer of this plane passed away this winter. I believe he was inducted into the AMA hall of fame last year.