I decided to build the Dymond Model Sports 52” Tiger Moth and since I could not find much on it in the forums, I will document the build.

I will be using the following in the plane:

• 3 Hitec HS 325HB on Thro, Elev, Rud
• 2 Hitec HS 81 Aile
• Futba 168RX
• Saito .56 12x8 prop
• 10 oz Sullivan slant fuel tank – I did not like the way the stock one fit.
• Covering replacement can use Monokote True Red 0227 and Aluminum 0205

I started the build by using 30 min epoxy to coat the inside of the radio and fuel tank compartment. Then I installed the Throt, Elev, and Rud servos. I replaced the push rods with carbon fiber and used a Sullivan .56 push cable for the throttle.

I had to make some small modification to the tail wheel bracket by removing some of the nylon bearing to allow proper fit with the rudder. I cut an 1/8 piece of the bearing off of the bottom, (See picture) The bracket was binding on the bottom of the fuselage and by removing some of the bearing, it allowed the tail wheel control arm to move up removing the binding of the bracket at the bottom of the fuselage. I filed a couple of grooves to the rod for gluing. I then glued the tail surfaces together and removed the covering.

After it dried, I added the tail wheel bracket to the rudder at the same time I gluded it to the fuselage.

I glued the tail surfaces to the fuselage, added the control horns, hooked up all the linkages and tested and adjusted the throws. Since the rudder is so high, I was not able to use the flexible sping tail wheel hookup by Sullivan. Instead I added the Du-Bro servo override setup on the rudder control rod. Again, I used carbon fiber for the control rods.

I installed the HS81 servos, however I did not glue them in place. Instead, I added 1/8 stock to the grooves to hold them in place with the balsa covers over them. This is made possible because instead of using the plastic covers I made new ones out of 1/16 sheet balsa and covered it with Monokote True Red. Then I added the push rods and screwed the covers in place.

Next I worked on the cowling. To make sure there would be enough air flow, I cut 3 holes in the front. Although the 2 on the left are not on the real plane, I added them based on the Great Planes 60 Tiger Moth. Using black nylon window screen to make the mesh covers, I used 2 pieces per hole and off-set them to add a more fine detail and glued them in place using thinned 30 min. epoxy.

After the detail work on the cowling, I made holes for the needle valve and the low idle adjustment. I figure once the engine was installed and the cowl on, it would be too much of a pain to adjust the low idle. You may not want to do this for looks, but with the muffler and prop on, I did not want to hassle with it. This is a new Saito engine and I know I will have to make subtle adjustments. Taping card stock to the fuselage, I made the marks for these holes along with the hole for the muffler. Reattaching the cowling, I transfer the marks and then cut out the holes with a Dremel tool.

More to come!

I added detail to the cockpit that is not part of the kit. I began by creating the compass and compass holder. Cutting a 17/32 brass tube to about ½ inch and then plugging it up about half way with a wood plug. This will give the compass image something to rest on. I used a 12mm wiggle eye from a craft store and created the lens of the compass. I cut off the back of the eye off and removed the black disk trimming it up to fit inside the brass tubing. Using 1/6 size instruments, cut out the desired compass image, place it inside the tubing and glue it against the wood plug. Then using canopy glue, glue the lens on to the compass image. I cut the compass holder from a .010 sheet of brass and bent the sides up, painted it black and attached with small brass brads.

To make the instrument panel, I marked the location of the instruments on 1/16 piece of plywood. Using sharpened brass tubing, I drilled holes in the plywood. Cutting out the 1/6 instruments and gluing them to a 1/32 piece of plywood in the appropriate position. I stained the main instrument panel and coated it with aero dope. Now I cut a piece of clear plastic to sandwich between the 1/32 and the 1/16 plywood. Using 12 min epoxy I glued all the pieces together.

I used 1/16 sheet balsa to create the trim around the top of the instrument panel. This work to hide the sandwich of the 3 pieces.

Here I cut out a template to hold the windscreen while gluing. I used some heavy construction paper and cut it to the pattern I wanted it to have glued to the fuselage. Covering the edges with painters tape to keep the glue from sticking, I then taped it to the fuselage and secured the windscreen to the template and glued using canopy glue. I used windscreen coping by formost products to detail out the windscreen

The last set of pictures shows the final assembly of the cockpit.

I decided to do some more customization and covered the main wing struts with 1/16 balsa and filled in the sides with 1/16 balsa and sanded. This gives it more a of a scale feeling. The carbines had to be shaved down to accommodate the cockpit customization (Cut the ones that are angled). Since the cockpit has to be slide in from the side, removing some of the material at the cockpit end was necessary. I use a dremel tool to remove in an arch about 3/16 of the material. I did both carbines so they would match.
After the modification to the carbines, I sanded, primed, and repainted them red. The main wing struts were stained and coated with thinned expoy.

When installing the struts, take care to follow the information listed below. This information is missing in the instructions and the longer main wing struts are installed on the mounts by the trailing edge while the shorter ones are near the leading edge. Also the fuselage carbines are installed with the strait vertical supports towards the engine.

The top wing incidence which is to be set to ¼ inch higher as measured from the bottom of the trailing edge then the bottom of the leading edge. I attached wood strips to the bottom of the wings at the 2 rib from the end of the edge of the center planking. I measured aprox. 8 ¼ inches on the leading edge and 8 ½ on the trailing edge. Remember this measurement is from the bottom of the lower wing to the bottom of the upper wing.

The last modification I did was to add guide wires. This required a few modifications to the fuselage. I replaced the carbines wood screws with 2-56 hex cap screws with blind nuts. The wood striped out easily, so this was necessary. I fashioned guide wire holders using electrical solider tabs.

I used Du-Bro 917 micro clevis .032 and 28 gauge wire to complete the wire rigging.
** Update to rigging. I replaced the 28 gauge wire with black elastic cord from Michaels Crafts because all the wires snap while in flight. I think it was a combination of the virbration and the wings flexing that caused them to break. Since they are for looks only, replacing them with the elastic line is no problem and is easier to work with.

The last of the items was to install a remote glow igniter and a remote fule valve.

The Tiger Moth is finally complete. I am going to fly It this weekend at our club’s Veterans Day Warbird Fun Fly. The instructions are not very complete and having good building skills is necessary. This is not a kit for a beginner due to the lack of instructional detail. However, I am very happy with the way the model turned out. They kit is well made, but some care does have to be taken in ironing the wrinkles in the covering. Becareful with the iron or heat gun as the covering melts easier than Monokote.

I will follow-up with more after I take her out for the first flight. Here are some pictures of the completed model. I added custom some custom decals I had left over from a Seagull PC-9 plane.

Great work! Can't wait to hear about the flight report

Thanks Windhawk!

Yesterday was the maiden flight. The servo override on the rudder made it very difficult to handle on the ground. I removed that and that solved the handling problem. Once it lifted into the air it climbed and climbed like it was tail heavy when in fact the plane was a little nose heavy. I took all the down trim I could give it to level it out. It was a good thing that the Saito .56 has so much extra power that it never stalled while I trimmed it out. It needed a little right trim as well. After I landed, I adjust the elevator clevis to add more down and reset the servo to zero. There is now about 1/8 inch of down elevator. I know it is not the plane out of balance as it was a little nose heavy. It would appear that maybe the top wing incidence may still not be right and I might have to make a jig to make sure the wings are set the same laterally. It has a tendency to not loop symmetrically.

Now having said those few things, I really like the way it fly’s. I have 6 flights on it and it is very graceful and with the Saito at ½ throttle, it will cruise all day. It spins great, does nice slow rolls and lands very slow. This plane is destine to become one of my favorite easy flyers.

A side note. Today was my clubs Veterans Day Warbird fun fly. I entered it in and although I did not win any awards, I did hold my own. There was some very detailed planes to compete with including a Gypsy Moth with the new in-line 4 by OS. That plane weighed in at 25lbs, but was very rich in detail and cleanup on the awards. That OS engine is something else and is very quite and sounds like the real thing.

Sweet!
What is the model covered with?

Windhawk,

The model is an ARF from Dymond Model Sports. I am unsure of the covering and it is a true shrink type, but I know it is not Monokote or Ultracoat. It does not stand up to heat like Monokote, however, I listed in the beginning the approx colors of Monokote that do match. The covering is good, you just have to be careful of the heat.

Tom

Here are the specs for this plane:

Wingspan - 51"
Length - 43"
Wing Area - 816 sqin
Weight - 5.5-6 lbs
CG from upper wing LE 120-130 mm
Throws
Ail - 7/8" up 1/2" down
Ele - 1" up 1" down
Rud - 1.4" L & R

Hi,

Do you know of where I can get a copy of the instructions for the Dymond 52" Tigermoth kit? I have a new kit, however, it does not have any kind of information or instructions. I am a medium novice but would very much like to have a copy.
Thanks very much for your descriptions and pictures!
Regards,
Fred

Fred just ask away.
I built my TM back in 2007 also. I have a 45 st in it and it's a great flyer though I crashed it awhile back and have never repaired it though now I may have to start working on her again.
My Decathlage was -1 on the top wing to the bottom.
With the ST 45 I can get this plane to really flatspin.
Ground handling is very sesnitive due to the narrow landing gear.
On take off hold a little elev and slowly advance your throttle while easing off the elev. by the time your at WOT you can pull back on the elev and your flying.
If I remeber correctlyu the CG is at the rear of the cabane.