DamBo

This my first attempt at a gas plane and one this big. I am going to try and go thru the build process of the CMP Edge 540 T.
First after unpacking and examining the airframe for any defects. I took a few pictures. Mainly to use for Realflight G4 540 color scheme,also to log the assembly for future reference.

DamBo

More Pictures

DamBo

Yet more of the insides;

denney47

My Feedback: (359)

I have just received my Edge 540T, still in the box but I hope to start it this weekend.
Tom

DamBo

I am still cleaning up and making room for beast.
What engine are you going to use?
I have a DL50 ready for it.

opjose

I have a ZDZ 50 for mine.

Great pictures.

denney47

My Feedback: (359)

I will be using the new CRRC Pro 50cc, I have one on a 30% SD Extra 260 and love it.
Tom

opjose

It looks like I'm going to insert strengthening blocks under the bottom panel, to beef up the gear area.

I'm a bit nervous about this area.

It looks like the fuel tank is mounted on it's side. Not a biggie, but unusual. The instructions give no real details on it's mounting location, so I guess it is to go as far back as possible against the stop.

Anyone have any ideas about what appear to be strap holes on either side of the fuel tank?


My ZDZ 50 ND has it's carb on the rear, which makes the included throttle servo mounts somewhat useless. I guess I'll have to figure out something for the throttle and the choke servos... I may also add a mechanical kill switch which can be activated via another micro servo.

The edge seals on the covering are beautiful. Mine came with the covering edges epoxied AND painted. It looks like the epoxy was smoothed down by pressing wax paper over it, especially on the wing roots. Not a wrinkle anywhere.


The tail looks very short to me... this is definitely NOT a plane for newbies.... it should snap roll if you look at it the wrong way.

opjose

Well in case anyone is following along.

The ZDZ 50ND engine requires about 2 3/16" inches of spacer/standoffs to give me the thrust washer distance stated in the manual.

I'm a bit worried about having the engine out so far supported by the standoffs... finding long enough bolts was a pain as well. I ended up having to take the bolts out of drywall toggle bolts, as these were the only things I could find that were long enough to do the job.

10-24 x 3" were all I could find in any hardware store. 12-24 x3 would have been better, but I was unable to find anything long enough.

While I have aluminum standoffs that I can combine to give me the required length, I'm considering instead cutting dowel stock to size.

The dowel stock is thicker than the aluminum standoffs. It may not look as nice, but there may be less chance of any lever moment effects breaking or bending the entire setup.

Anyone have any comments about using such long mounts?

denney47

My Feedback: (359)

I use long stand-offs on my gas airplanes (3") but the stand offs I use are threaded on both ends so you use two short bolts per standoff instead of one long bolt.

Tom
Valley View RC

DamBo

Well as you can see I have yet to start my build.

You guys keep up the good work though and any tips along the way.

opjose

Yeah I was reading on many other threads that long bolts & spacers are a BAD idea as the engine puts an lot of torque on the bolts causing them to eventually rip out.

A hardwood plate or base with short spacers was suggested, so this is exactly what I did.

I created a "U" shaped 1 3/4" spacer block to which I've adding short standoffs.

As suggested this creates a wide area to distribute engine torque and the U shape prevents lateral movement.

In addition to blind nuts I have a set of wide washers and lock nuts behind the blind nuts behind the firewall.


I'm still a bit worried about the gear mounting area.

The gear attached to ply that is in turn glued to the formers.

The ply looks too thin to me....

You can see this in post #3 above.

opjose

Photos of the construction thus far:

ZDZ 50NG mounting



ZDZ 50NG Throttle and Choke servos



A perfect fit! GP Pilot figure and ExtremeflightRC instrument panel.



And yes it fits w/o modification under the canopy.

opjose

Instrument Panel with chart added in by me.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

What s the wingspan on these? like 78? seems awfully small for a good 50cc?
My LHS got some in,but I passed on the great price and seemingly OK frame,just too small , to put all that gear in...?
Interesting to see the flyabilitiy of this one.
The throttle linkage above looks like a major problem,unless it's a test run

opjose

Yeah 50CC seems like way too much engine given the size and weight of the plane, but that is what was recommended. The 40CC looks like it would be a better fit.

I'm hoping it will at least fly.

I'm worried about the relatively high wing loading, although the plane should come in at about what the specs say or less from the looks of things so far.


Re: Throttle?

You think so?

Could you elaborate why it may be problematic?

Thanks.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Well the throttle linkage should be isolated,meaning that it should not be a metal rod and metal clevis to the servo arm or engine.
Also,the set screw method is unreliable and needs to be changed to a secure attachment.The vibrations will likely kill the little choke servo,go standard size or do it manual or get an ignition cut off.Manual and Ignition cut, is light and safest.See SmartFly products.
For the throttle rod use a NyRod or at least some plastic clevises at both ends.
This Edge will probably take the weight and power of the 50cc,if you can get a NIMH 1000mh to run ignition and perhaps A123 to run the receiver,it will help take out a bit of burden weight.Use a wood prop.
Good luck with it

opjose

I appreciate the response. I will make the changes.

Question: should I not use metal rods at all?

I infer from your post that you mean I should not use metal at either end of the rod. At the engine I already have a plastic ball link retainer.
Is it OK to just use plastic retainers on both sides?

Re: Choke...

The rear postion of the carb makes a servo easier to deal with so I'll change it out. Thanks for the tip.

Otherwise I'll need to install an "L" crank, etc to bring the choke control out of the cowl.

Re: Weight

After your post I panicked a bit.

The plane seems to come in at about 36-39oz loading if I keep it within the recommended weight.

Not the lightest, but it should be ok, or so I hope.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I am somewhat newer to gasser also,so I dont have tried and tested answers,try the gasser forum under giant planes,good info there.
Some say a metal rod is fine,some use plastic ball links at each end.main reason for this is that RF noise can be transferred from engine back to the receiver easily,and cause range and glitch problems,so a plastic or Nylon clevis helps.
Browse thru some of the pics in the giant scale built threads.

opjose

Thanks I've read this too. I've had RF interference problems with glow engines as well when I once used a metal rod and clevis set.

I'm actually sticking the receiver towards the rear of the canopy area so it will be quite far from the engine.

I have a resistor plug in place and I may also add an aluminum shield to the EI system to play it safe.

Thanks for the heads up.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Since we are discussing finishes and maintenance in the other thread,whats your thoughts on the pattern on this Edge?
The scheme looks pretty good and fresh. Is it layered or all printed onto one sheet?

opjose

Most of it is a single layer covering. There are a few things such as the CMP logos that are layered on top.

Several areas show overspray indicating a matching paint was used.

I see yellow, white and blue overspray on some of the wood edges... e.g. where the canopy attaches.

This is firmly affixed and actually seals some of the edges.

There seems to be a gel type coating over the everything.

This may be a different material than used on the other CMP arf's though I do not know for sure.

It is fairly thick, and feels stronger/thicker than Ultracoat.

It may hold up well to gas.

I have the same stuff on a CMP Giles 202 V2 that I have, and I ended up using the Top Flite clear coat on that. There is no paint overspray on the Giles....


I do not know if that was necessary to use the clear coat on the Giles, it's imperative on the older CMP planes and the other Asian ARF's such as the fly-models, and world models planes.


Next time I take some pictures I'll also take a couple of the paint areas so you can see what was done.

opjose

Well mine is almost finished now.

I merely need to add the electronic switches and tail strut.


I ended up using larger wheels than those supplied.

3.5" wheels fit the existing pants just fine w/o any modifications.

I only changed out a few minor hardware items.

The supplied grommets were a great idea.

I permanently glued one to ( or rather around) each cowl screw hole on the fuselage, to act as vibration dampers for the cowl.
I also permanently glued metal washers to the cowl screw holes to prevent cracks.

I applied fuel proofing to the entire inside of the cowl to add strength. It would have been nice to see this plane supplied with a wooden cowl ring.

To balance my plane I had to put both the ignition battery pack and my flight pack towards the rear of the canopy.
There is already an existing wooden support there with cutouts for tie downs. Both batteries fit there perfectly one on each side.

Just forward of this I installed a new tray I made for the radio and other equipment.

In addition my pilot & instrument panel adds 4 oz aft of the C.G., yet in spite of all of this, I may have to add some weight to the tail.

I ran the receiver antenna through a tube which is inserted through the formers so no antenna is visible.

The hardest part of this ARF so far was obtaining a 3 1/4" 10-32 cap head screw for the long nosed 3.5" True Turn spinner I used for the ZDZ 50CC engine.

The plane looks great though I may need to do the Top Flite clear coat on it.


The build was relatively straight forward, though you have to make a few things yourself, like the electronics tray, and I made the simple pictured tray for the throttle and choke servos, and used dowls and rubber bands to retain the fuel tank.


Has anyone flown theirs yet?

Anyone finish theirs?

DamBo

Sounds like you are rocking and rolling on yours.
I haven't even taken mine out of the box other than to take pictures.
So do you have any pics of yours ?
The mods etc.

Let us know about the maiden flight..

opjose

As soon as I'm done I'll post some pictures.

I should have it finished in a day or two, if I get a few minutes to work on it.