JYM

Hi,

I would like to open a discussion about mods you guys have done to the bird.


Specifications:

- Wingspan: 81 in / 2,006 mm
- Length: 72.4 in / 1,840mm
- Weight: 12.8 Lbs / 5.8 Kg


On my side, the landing gear is going to be changed for a less heavy one. Digital scale give me 238gr. / 8.40oz for OEM lg. .

I might also get another tail wheel system... will see.

I have weighted all airframe parts + OEM hardware and: 3330gr. / 7.28lb

Also, I have checked all airframe parts and no one is twisted. Covering job is more than decent for an ARF.

What is your electrical/engine setup?

JYM.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

look forward to seeing/hearing a flight report on this one. Looks like a good candidate for a small gasser.

good luck and more pics!

Texastbird

Do you think it will handle a 50cc gasser? I have one of the smaller BH extras and it is a great flier, but not a 3d machine. I'd like to see some pictures when you get it out of the box.
Thanks

JYM

Hi guys,

My first thought was also about set it up with a gasser. But after I scaled and inspected the aiframe it seems more lightweight oriented. Example, the leading edges are half sheeted. I concur about the smaller BH Cap, I had one also. This one is definitely 3D capable. More pictures to come... when the kid keeps an eye on something else than the plane or the reflex cam which I tell you is way more difficult to control than torq rolling.

I am amazed there is not one who is flying it already?!

'later,

JYM.

Texastbird

Ok. I have one on the way, but it will be awhile before it gets on the building bench ( or should it be called assembly table ). I was hoping to use a lightweight gas engine, but I am open to suggestions also.

JYM

Just to confirm you've made a wise choice... .

Fuselage: 2lb 9.1oz
Wing (right): 12.6oz
Wing (left): 12.3oz
Vertical stab: 3.2oz
Horizontal stab: 4.6oz
Cowling: 7.5oz
Landing gear: 8.4oz
Wheel pants: 2.3oz
Aluminium wing brace: 6.1oz
Hardware: 15.4oz

-

Total: +/- 7lb 1oz


Remark, I added the weight of the stickers in my first measures.

As soon as I have some servos in the mailbox, I will be able to balance the plane and make a list of engines that could fit.


Btw, I am going with:

JR Servo, High-Torque ST126MG

Specs

* Size Category:Standard
* Type:Analog
* Torque:126 oz/in @4.8v; 142 oz/in @6v
* Speed:.21 sec/60° @4.8v; .17 sec/60° @6v
* Dimensions (WxLxH):.73" X 1.52" X 1.33"
* Weight:1.6oz
* Gear Type:Metal

JYM

more pics...

Texastbird

Thanks for the pictures. It looks pretty light. That little pilot dude looks a little small though.

JYM

You're welcome TB. Pilot must be the Vietnamese size I guess.

With a little work you should be able to replace it. I might kick it out also and paint the canopy for a few onces less on the airframe.

With a glow engine, we should be able to keep under 13lb. with not much problems.

I just checked my pictures and forget to tell you that the bottom wing is flat yellow, no stripes or so. Some Ultra/Mono kote will be cool to have on your hardware list... if you do not have any in extra.

Texastbird

I put some white diamonds on one plane that was solid red all over. I'm thinking maybe some checkerboards like my Ryan STA has on it's bottom wing.

Texastbird

OK! I got mine yesterday, and it is larger than what I would have thought. 50CC here we come!

askfortrains

My 13yr old son built this one all by himself. We are using Cirrus digital MG servos that cost $25 ea. I got 6 of these along with the plane. We are running an Area 51 engine 51cc, from RC Extreme Power Gas Engine, that my son won in the pilot drawing at the Triple Tree, SC, "Youth Masters" tournament. We are using a 20X10 ProZinger prop while the engine is new. We also have a GP Ultimate Biplane with a DL 50 and a Seagull Superstar running an XYZ 50 spec A engine but this is his favorite plane. I will get some pic's posted later.

kochj

A 20X10 is really a 40cc prop.... after you break it in....

I believe you should be using a 22X8 to start???

Texastbird

I'd like to hear some flying impressions with the Area 51 engine. It's one of the ones I have been researching. Any videos of the 13 year old flying??

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

JYM,

Good name! I am also considering buying a BH Cap 232, as I have found one cheap. I am, however, trying to find out whether my Saito 270 twin will fit totally inside the cowl. I wonder if you would be able to take some measurements off your cowl for me please? The main dimensions that I am after are the width of the cowl "cheeks" at the front end and at the widest part, and the height of the cowl cheeks (too see if the rocker covers will fit inside). But there are some others that would be really helpful too. See sketch below for the dimensions I am after (dimensions numbered DIM1-DIM5, some are repeated on different views).



Thanks in advance,

James.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hi guys,

I took the plunge and bought the CAP, and I too was pleasantly surprised at what you get for your money! An even better, the Saito 270 twin fits perfectly INSIDE the cowl! Woohoo!

I have one question, though. I find the fuel tank position to be very strange. It seems that the tank is designed to be installed at about a 30 degree angle (front is higher than the rear). There is no sectional diagram to show inside the compartment, only some dodgey b&w photos in the assembly manual. What have others done about this? I am thinking of modifying it so that the tank will sit level, but I am not sure if I need to. My feeling is that as it is currently it should be fine when flying straight and level, but when inverted the fuel would run to the fron of the tank and starve the engine.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

James.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hi guys,

Here are some pics of my build so far:

you can see the tank in the "stock" position, which is at a fairly steep angle, and then when I have positioned it horizontally. In the horizontal position, the front of the tank is too low to poke through the fire wall. I am thinking to either modify former F2 so that the tank can sit higher and horizontal, or mount the tank over the CG. The latter may be better, seeing that I have the extra weight of the Saito 270 twin up front.

Also, you can see how I have lined up the prop shaft with the centre line. I used a laser level that my dad bought me years ago. Now I have found a use for it!

JS615

I got this plane back in the summer, it is a good plane for the money, and performs well. i put a Moki 180 on it and it has plenty of power and will hover.. the landing gear area needs to be reinforced, i had a couple of bouncy landings that were not bad at all, and it still cracked the area where the gear mount in. the paint chips off the cowl very easy also,,
the wing seems to be very fragile, when holding the wing be very careful not to crush the sheeting on the lead edge of the wing, all in all it is a good value.

JS615

After looking at some of the pics that jymster posted, that plane looks to be redesigned, my bh 232 did not have a removable canopy hatch, this must be a new and improved??????????

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

JS615,

Yes, this is the "new improved" version, with removable canopy hatch and two piece detachable wings. It is built very light, as you say. Maybe even lighter than the original. The only things I do not like so far are the stock tank position and the flimsy ailerons. One of the ailerons was warped right out of the box, and it has been a real bugger trying to straighten it. I used a heat gun, and some of the covering has shrunk so much that the wood is now showing. [:@] The ailerons twist quite easily too, which concerns me. The control horn is only about 1/3 of the way out from the root end of the aileron, instead of in the centre, so I hope it does not twist. Someone mentioned that the older version had spaces for a second set of aileron servos in the wing? Mine does not have this, unfortunately. If I have any trouble, I may replace the ailerons with solid balsa ones, or at least a stiffer design. Will see how it pans out.

More pics soon.

James.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hi guys,

A little bit more done on the cap. Has been pretty hot here the last few days, though, so the garage has been a no-go zone during the daylight hours.[] Temperature was around 38C yesterday and today (approx. 100F). Is forecast to be the same tomorrow!

A little progress, though. I have decided to mount the tank near the CG. It is a little forward, but only just. I will have to deal with fuel draw issues if and as they arise. I have also mounted the throttle servo, on top of the engine box. I had originally envisaged this plate being on top of the box, with the servo mounted on top of the plate. Unfortunately the servo arm fouled with the cowl, and so I had to mount both the plate and servo underneath. My only concern now is that some fuel splatter may pool in this area. Again, will deal with this problem if an when it arises.

Also, I am not sure if it was the heat in the garage, or maybe my overzealous use of the heat gun, but it seems that several formers in the rear of the fuselage have collapsed. Probably a combination of both. This model is built a little too light, I think. I will try to prop up the formers with balsa sticks and see if this helps.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Another update.

Have finished installing throttle and choke servos. Each is a Hiteci HS225BB. There is a small amount of chatter at the end points with the choke setup, due to the slop associated with so many connection points. But a little tap on the engine box stops this. I suspect that the with the vibration of the engine this should not be a problem.

I have moved the tank back even further than previously. I had it just in front of the cross bar above the wing tube, however this got in the way of access to the front wing fixing bolts. I may now have to use a Perry pump to deliver fuel to the carb. I have actually fitted a pressure nipple to each exhaust pipe, to see if this will work (pics later). But I guess the Perry should ensure reliability.

Cowl has been fitted. I decided to go with a more scale look, and used a bunch of screws to fix it on. In the end, I think I used a few too many screws. I have used servo screws for now, but will replace with #2 button head socket screws. The full scale has screws with a head diameter of approx. 18-20mm, so 4-5mm will be good. I will also put a row of screws along the part line of the cowl cheeks.

I have repared the broken formers using balsa sticks. Have also done this on the "good" side, just in case it decides to fail as well.

Installed a more scale-like tailwheel.

Now I am just working out how to lay out the wiring and reciever.

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hi James,

I bought one a few days. I have to put an engine of 45cc Chainsaw. I have two questions. How did the engine located? Mouting templates for OS MAX are right axle with 11mm (0.4 inches). You mounted the engine to fit in the cowl or used for mounting the axis for OS MAX. You have reinforced the wall of fire, it seems a bit fragile? What weight is your engine? Mine are completely 1865g (4.11 lbs).
Thanks for your help.

Best regards,
Mugurel

Jimmy and Mugurel

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Migurel,

You will see from my post dated 1/3/09 (3rd January), that I actually used a laser line tool to get the centreline for the engine. I did not use the template in the box, as my engine is very different. I think it weighs about 2.2kg, so it is very heavy. Yes, I also used the cowl to position the engine properly. I did reinforce the firewall with lots of epoxy. I did not add any ply, but just epoxied all of the joints. I also fuelproofed the entire engine bay with epoxy.

I am currently having trouble with fuel draw, as I suspected. The model flys very nicely, however the engine dies when I do a high G up elevator manoeuvre. I tried adding a small 2oz hopper tank, to bring the level of the fuel higher, but the problem still persists. I am not going to try a Perry pump, to see if this will fix the problem.

James.

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hi James,

Thanks so much for your help.
I saw the device but I do not have something, I do the template of plywood and mounted the engine in various locations will match up. Because the engine is hard you had trouble center, had to put some weight in the tail?To Rx power you used something like PowerBox or servo directly mounted receiver. What hinges did you use, the original flexible?
On your engine, you tried setting a little more rich? The engine is new? If not, we saw that a certain number of hours the engines 4stroke be corrected in the valve seats with pasta sander. It could be this one case. You can try using a system that Yamada engines with engine pressure through a nozzle directly into the fuel tank and a one-way valve pump without Perry.

Good luck,
Mugurel