A NEW KIND OF BUILD THREAD, for those of you . . .
#76
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I think its about time I get myself a Dremel tool and accessories. Something I should have gotten a long time ago. I bet when I get one I will wonder how I lived so long in this hobby without one.
I think its about time I get myself a Dremel tool and accessories. Something I should have gotten a long time ago. I bet when I get one I will wonder how I lived so long in this hobby without one.
If you do get a Dremel you will really like it.
#77
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What exactly are these for? They say they are for Dremel but do they just cut circles like a drill or do they cut like a rotary cutting disk [link=http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=5796]SUCH AS THIS ONE[/link]?
I don’t wanna waste money on them if they do the same type of work as the rotary disk cutter. If they do the same but are better than the disks I will buy them. I hate it when the sites don't give details, so any you could share would be great.
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE121
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE118
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE199
This would be the first Dremel I get so I don’t know what tools to get for it? Please advise me on accessories that I will need with the Dremel and possibly a link to show me what they are.
Thank you.
I don’t wanna waste money on them if they do the same type of work as the rotary disk cutter. If they do the same but are better than the disks I will buy them. I hate it when the sites don't give details, so any you could share would be great.
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE121
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE118
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE199
This would be the first Dremel I get so I don’t know what tools to get for it? Please advise me on accessories that I will need with the Dremel and possibly a link to show me what they are.
Thank you.
#78

ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
Sorry to get off the subject of this thread but I don't wanna start another thread to ask this simple question:
What exactly are these for? They say they are for Dremel but do they just cut circles like a drill or do they cut like a rotary cutting disk [link=http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=5796]SUCH AS THIS ONE[/link]?
I don’t wanna waste money on them if they do the same type of work as the rotary disk cutter. If they do the same but are better than the disks I will buy them. I hate it when the sites don't give details, so any you could share would be great.
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE121
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE118
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE199
Is this a good deal or can it be gotten cheaper elsewhere?
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...p?prod=DRE2850
Are any of the accessories included in this pack used for cutting or will I need separate accessories such as the ones shown above? This would be the first Dremel I get so I don’t know what tools to get for it? Please advise me on accessories that I will need with the Dremel and possibly a link to show me what they are.
Thank you.
Sorry to get off the subject of this thread but I don't wanna start another thread to ask this simple question:
What exactly are these for? They say they are for Dremel but do they just cut circles like a drill or do they cut like a rotary cutting disk [link=http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=5796]SUCH AS THIS ONE[/link]?
I don’t wanna waste money on them if they do the same type of work as the rotary disk cutter. If they do the same but are better than the disks I will buy them. I hate it when the sites don't give details, so any you could share would be great.
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE121
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE118
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DRE199
Is this a good deal or can it be gotten cheaper elsewhere?
http://h1071097.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...p?prod=DRE2850
Are any of the accessories included in this pack used for cutting or will I need separate accessories such as the ones shown above? This would be the first Dremel I get so I don’t know what tools to get for it? Please advise me on accessories that I will need with the Dremel and possibly a link to show me what they are.
Thank you.
The next three are special shaped cutters for cutting/milling areas. They are basically good only on wood or soft metals. Not in same class as roatry disc cutter. Neither will do the job the other will do. DIFFERENT tools.
As for the KIT, don't know exactly what it includes. Find out and shop around even at Wal-Mart and Sears. Sometimes they can save you money.
#79

#80
I have three Dremels and use them all the time but I'm a tool nut the man that dies with the most tools and planes wins. I have them hanging above my head in my shop with the bit I use the most in each one. Those cut off wheels are the best you will find hundreds of uses for them I use them all the time and those little samding drums too.
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I think its about time I get myself a Dremel tool and accessories. Something I should have gotten a long time ago. I bet when I get one I will wonder how I lived so long in this hobby without one.
ORIGINAL: sticktickler
tigerdude426,
It should not affect the cradles at all but you may need to move the pump to the boxes rear.
I have no real knowledge that storing a sealed dry cell on its side does any harm I’m sure it make little difference. I have two batteries in my box just sitting in there no padding what so ever has been fine for years. If I was you I’d find a way to punch some holes in the divider so it can still vent on out the vents in the front and put them under the panel as they should be. A Dremel with a right angel cutter and one of those side cutting bits would cut some nice slots in it quick and easy.
tigerdude426,
It should not affect the cradles at all but you may need to move the pump to the boxes rear.
I have no real knowledge that storing a sealed dry cell on its side does any harm I’m sure it make little difference. I have two batteries in my box just sitting in there no padding what so ever has been fine for years. If I was you I’d find a way to punch some holes in the divider so it can still vent on out the vents in the front and put them under the panel as they should be. A Dremel with a right angel cutter and one of those side cutting bits would cut some nice slots in it quick and easy.
#81
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One item I have found invaluable with all of my Dremel's is this drill chuck. I keep it on most of my Dremel's so I can make quick changes of tools.
[link]http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188555&G=66442&I=66450[/link]
Ken
[link]http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188555&G=66442&I=66450[/link]
Ken
#82
Dremels are useful for removing too much wood or metal in a short time.
I much prefer chainsaw files, small "riffling" files and rasps, and good woodworking files. I have two Dremels, and use the reenforced cut-off wheels 95% of the time on both of them, and the other 5% is with a "Mizzy" wheel for delicate grinding of metal (and flint - you just can't get good, flat gunflints for flintlock muzzleloaders in the 100 count bags anymore and they have odd humps that need flattening).
I much prefer chainsaw files, small "riffling" files and rasps, and good woodworking files. I have two Dremels, and use the reenforced cut-off wheels 95% of the time on both of them, and the other 5% is with a "Mizzy" wheel for delicate grinding of metal (and flint - you just can't get good, flat gunflints for flintlock muzzleloaders in the 100 count bags anymore and they have odd humps that need flattening).
#83
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From: Pittsfield,
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My Hobbico Quick Field Charger arrived today and the charge leads for my Tower Hobbies, Hitec and Futatba TX and RX. I also purchased a charge lead for Deans Male ULTRA that has banana plugs at the other end for the charger. While this lead is the right connection it is only 8 inches long - way too short to reach the planes battery from my flight box.
So where can I find a charge lead Deans Male Standard ULTRA with banana plugs that are longer than 8 inches?
EDIT: Here is a clearer picture of what it looks like
and the link to its details [link=http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5012]Charging Cable (Deans/Banana)[/link]
Thank you.
So where can I find a charge lead Deans Male Standard ULTRA with banana plugs that are longer than 8 inches?
EDIT: Here is a clearer picture of what it looks like
and the link to its details [link=http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5012]Charging Cable (Deans/Banana)[/link]
Thank you.
#85
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From: Sherwood park, AB, CANADA
Sorry to back track but I just finished my flight box assembly and mostly used epoxy for the construction. The instuctions also said to apply a bead of thick CA along any joints for added strength. I was originally going to paint it but would now prefer to use minwax one step stain and poly instead, but I was wondering if this will work now because of the glue that I used?
Thanks
Thanks
#86
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I am no expert in this field but as stated in post #4 by JD380: . . . (Quote) "The stain really looks good. But stain won't work if there is ANY CA glue on it" . . . (Unquote)
I believe the epoxy may also show through. But let's get opinion from you folks that have more experience in this.
I believe the epoxy may also show through. But let's get opinion from you folks that have more experience in this.
#87
It does not matter what kind of glue you used to build the box when going with a stained finish. What does matter is how careful you where during the gluing application. It's like this wood is much like a sponge it soaks up everything. Glues will seal the wood up preventing stains form soaking the wood causing splotches of uneven color keep your glue joints neat. Just so you know too much Elmer’s glue will do the same thing but the nice thing about Elmer’s or the like is you can wipe off any ooos with a damp cloth before it sets up. Use a good sander on the sides, face and back this should remove most glue all the other places will be hard to see anyway. Also remember a coat of paint hides a multitude of sin if you don’t like the stain then paint it. Rust-Oleum works great with a brush on wood and comes in many cool colors and yes it’s very fuel proof too.
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I am no expert in this field but as stated in post #4 by JD380: . . . (Quote) "The stain really looks good. But stain won't work if there is ANY CA glue on it" . . . (Unquote)
I believe the epoxy may also show through. But let's get opinion from you folks that have more experience in this.
I am no expert in this field but as stated in post #4 by JD380: . . . (Quote) "The stain really looks good. But stain won't work if there is ANY CA glue on it" . . . (Unquote)
I believe the epoxy may also show through. But let's get opinion from you folks that have more experience in this.
#88
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FINALLY
the last two drawers (middle and bottom) filed down to fit in the openings.
The two battery cover rails (used hardwood instead of balsa) are glued and clamped in place.
How do you attach the Hobbico Field Charger to the flight box opening? Do you simply use velcro or ???
Cover rails dry and battery cover (cut to shape earlier to fit the booboo mentioned above) fits perfectly in place.
Sticktickler - How are the cradle pieces coming? Did you receive the Money Order yet?
Later all
QUESTION: When the final sand is accomplished do I want all of the black lasercut marks sanded off or will it look OK if I leave some of them???
the last two drawers (middle and bottom) filed down to fit in the openings.The two battery cover rails (used hardwood instead of balsa) are glued and clamped in place.
How do you attach the Hobbico Field Charger to the flight box opening? Do you simply use velcro or ???
Cover rails dry and battery cover (cut to shape earlier to fit the booboo mentioned above) fits perfectly in place.
Sticktickler - How are the cradle pieces coming? Did you receive the Money Order yet?
Later all
QUESTION: When the final sand is accomplished do I want all of the black lasercut marks sanded off or will it look OK if I leave some of them???
#89
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After some thought I have decided to do this secure system. I am just concerned whether I will be able to keep the holes lined up 

ORIGINAL: sticktickler
. . . And to keep them from coming open here is a simple way to secure them. Just drill a 1/4" hole in the top near the front left of the box and in each drawers bottom and box bottom. Make sure all five holes are lined up so you can insert a 1/4" dowel with a handle on it into each hole locking the drawers this will keep them shut in travel.
. . . And to keep them from coming open here is a simple way to secure them. Just drill a 1/4" hole in the top near the front left of the box and in each drawers bottom and box bottom. Make sure all five holes are lined up so you can insert a 1/4" dowel with a handle on it into each hole locking the drawers this will keep them shut in travel.
#90
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The drawer secure dowel is waiting to be cut to size and the handle to be glued on. I guess I will try to find a round wooden drawer knob or similar for that. The holes were drilled relatively straight through all the drawers (well enough that the drawers aren't crookedly placed anyways
)
I guess my flight box is just about finished (did I miss anything?)
A bunch of sanding to do now [:'(]. Start with 50grit sandpaper I guess for the rough stuff, then go down to 80grit, then 120grit, then 320grit. Will that be enough or will I need to end it with something like 400grit?
I will not be doing much sanding around the "SIG" logo as I would like to keep that if I can
See yah later.
)I guess my flight box is just about finished (did I miss anything?)
A bunch of sanding to do now [:'(]. Start with 50grit sandpaper I guess for the rough stuff, then go down to 80grit, then 120grit, then 320grit. Will that be enough or will I need to end it with something like 400grit?
I will not be doing much sanding around the "SIG" logo as I would like to keep that if I can
See yah later.
#91
Well done you will be glad you made this decision. My drawers always seem to open during movement and in my truck bed for a whole season before I thought of this simple solution to the problem. I don’t find the laser burns all that unsightly as long as it’s all smooth. But if you have an electric sander removing them on all sides would be easy. All cradle pieces have been done for days those pics are your pieces. No money order on Saturday sure it will be here Monday but I plan to ship Monday anyway if it is or not. Question for you…..Do you plan to install a power panel in the side window?
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
After some thought I have decided to do this secure system. I am just concerned whether I will be able to keep the holes lined up
After some thought I have decided to do this secure system. I am just concerned whether I will be able to keep the holes lined up

ORIGINAL: sticktickler
. . . And to keep them from coming open here is a simple way to secure them. Just drill a 1/4" hole in the top near the front left of the box and in each drawers bottom and box bottom. Make sure all five holes are lined up so you can insert a 1/4" dowel with a handle on it into each hole locking the drawers this will keep them shut in travel.
. . . And to keep them from coming open here is a simple way to secure them. Just drill a 1/4" hole in the top near the front left of the box and in each drawers bottom and box bottom. Make sure all five holes are lined up so you can insert a 1/4" dowel with a handle on it into each hole locking the drawers this will keep them shut in travel.
#92
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ORIGINAL: sticktickler
Well done you will be glad you made this decision. My drawers always seem to open during movement and in my truck bed for a whole season before I thought of this simple solution to the problem.
RESPONSE: Thank you for suggesting it, I am already glad I did it. It will look much better once a round handle is on the dowel. The Manufacturer's suggestion for keeping the drawers shut was to attach velcro strips to the back of the drawers and the back wall of the box where the drawers hit. When the drawers are shut the velcro would stick thus preventing them from unwanted opening during movement. But I like your idea much better, and really glad I did it. But I must admit I was worried, as I do have a tendency to not drill straight
I don’t find the laser burns all that unsightly as long as it’s all smooth. But if you have an electric sander removing them on all sides would be easy.
RESPONSE: No I do not have an electric sander, never had any need for one. I will sand it to the point of being smooth but not worry about all the laser marks.
All cradle pieces have been done for days those pics are your pieces. No money order on Saturday sure it will be here Monday but I plan to ship Monday anyway if it is or not.
RESPONSE: All righty then. Can't wait . . . Money Order should be there tomorrow, if not the Tuesday at the latest I would imagine. Then I will send the bonus b the end of the week if thats OK.
Question for you…..Do you plan to install a power panel in the side window?
RESPONSE: Not a power panel but the field charger shown above. Will that interfer with the cradle installation? I didn't get an answer to the above question about installing it either. Do I attach the charger to the box with velcro? Or are they screwed in somehow? There aren't any screwholes in the charger for the installation of that kind. So I guess velcro would be OK.
Well done you will be glad you made this decision. My drawers always seem to open during movement and in my truck bed for a whole season before I thought of this simple solution to the problem.
RESPONSE: Thank you for suggesting it, I am already glad I did it. It will look much better once a round handle is on the dowel. The Manufacturer's suggestion for keeping the drawers shut was to attach velcro strips to the back of the drawers and the back wall of the box where the drawers hit. When the drawers are shut the velcro would stick thus preventing them from unwanted opening during movement. But I like your idea much better, and really glad I did it. But I must admit I was worried, as I do have a tendency to not drill straight

I don’t find the laser burns all that unsightly as long as it’s all smooth. But if you have an electric sander removing them on all sides would be easy.
RESPONSE: No I do not have an electric sander, never had any need for one. I will sand it to the point of being smooth but not worry about all the laser marks.
All cradle pieces have been done for days those pics are your pieces. No money order on Saturday sure it will be here Monday but I plan to ship Monday anyway if it is or not.
RESPONSE: All righty then. Can't wait . . . Money Order should be there tomorrow, if not the Tuesday at the latest I would imagine. Then I will send the bonus b the end of the week if thats OK.
Question for you…..Do you plan to install a power panel in the side window?
RESPONSE: Not a power panel but the field charger shown above. Will that interfer with the cradle installation? I didn't get an answer to the above question about installing it either. Do I attach the charger to the box with velcro? Or are they screwed in somehow? There aren't any screwholes in the charger for the installation of that kind. So I guess velcro would be OK.
#93
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ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I think its about time I get myself a Dremel tool and accessories. Something I should have gotten a long time ago. I bet when I get one I will wonder how I lived so long in this hobby without one.
I think its about time I get myself a Dremel tool and accessories. Something I should have gotten a long time ago. I bet when I get one I will wonder how I lived so long in this hobby without one.
Dremel 400 Series XPR Rotary Tool Kit with 51 Accessories
http://www.cporotarytools.com/rotary.../400-3-51.html
Dremel XPR MultiSaw Attachment
http://www.cporotarytools.com/entire...ion/ms400.html
Dremel Mini Saw Attachment
http://www.cporotarytools.com/entire_selection/670.html
Dremel Cut-off Wheel Accessory Set
http://www.cporotarytools.com/entire...on/688-01.html
Also got a bunch of different style jigsaw blades for the multisaw attachment.
Dremel Cutting Bit
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html
Dremel quick-change chuck

And also got a Heavy-Duty Cable Shears
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/63016.html
as trying to use regular wire-cutters just were not cutting it (pun intended) and cutting the cables at the hardware stores were not either as by the time I got around to installing it the ends would start fraying. Now I can finally cut them myself at the time I need them. A hefty price to pay to cut my own wire but definitely handy as I do all my steering arms and throttle hookups with cable.
#94
RESPONSE: Not a power panel but the field charger shown above. Will that interfer with the cradle installation? I didn't get an answer to the above question about installing it either. Do I attach the charger to the box with velcro? Or are they screwed in somehow? There aren't any screwholes in the charger for the installation of that kind. So I guess velcro would be OK.
Na you should be ok just put the short upright above the place you have the charger. The longer upright will go on the outside fuel end of box you will need to move the pump however.
Na you should be ok just put the short upright above the place you have the charger. The longer upright will go on the outside fuel end of box you will need to move the pump however.
#95
ORIGINAL: sticktickler
tigerdude426,
I took a look at your charger and it does not appear to have any mounting apparatuses. The real beauty of these chargers is their compact portability. Don’t mount it just Velcro it in place in the box top so it don’t slide around. There it will be handy to use and if you need to charge a pack on the bench you can remove it to do so.
tigerdude426,
I took a look at your charger and it does not appear to have any mounting apparatuses. The real beauty of these chargers is their compact portability. Don’t mount it just Velcro it in place in the box top so it don’t slide around. There it will be handy to use and if you need to charge a pack on the bench you can remove it to do so.
#96

tiger - with the multi saw the blades do NOT reciprocate like in a jigsaw but turn like in a drill or Dremel tool.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html are rotary bits and not reciprocating like a jigsaw. They will still do many tasks though.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html are rotary bits and not reciprocating like a jigsaw. They will still do many tasks though.
#97
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But the details at the website states, in part:
Features
Universal blade holder uses standard U- and T-shank jigsaw blades
3/8" blade stroke for fast and controlled scroll and straight-line cutting
Pivot foot provides easier control in a variety of materials and shapes
Includes one wood cutting blade for straight and curved cutting
Soft grip body for comfort and control
For use only with the 400 Series XPR rotary tool
Includes
XPR MultiSaw attachment
Straight/curved wood-cutting saw blade
I know the cutting bit works like a drill bit while cutting (I didn't get it as a replacement bit for the multisaw, I got it just in case I would ever need it) but it says in the details here that the multisaw uses regular jigsaw blades (you can see in the pic) and works like a scrollsaw. So I bought some blades that start with the letter "T" so I assumed they were T-shank blades (hope I was right cause I got quite a few different styles).
And the mini saw will come in real handy the next time I have to cut out a new servo tray (which has been more than once)
Features
Universal blade holder uses standard U- and T-shank jigsaw blades
3/8" blade stroke for fast and controlled scroll and straight-line cutting
Pivot foot provides easier control in a variety of materials and shapes
Includes one wood cutting blade for straight and curved cutting
Soft grip body for comfort and control
For use only with the 400 Series XPR rotary tool
Includes
XPR MultiSaw attachment
Straight/curved wood-cutting saw blade
I know the cutting bit works like a drill bit while cutting (I didn't get it as a replacement bit for the multisaw, I got it just in case I would ever need it) but it says in the details here that the multisaw uses regular jigsaw blades (you can see in the pic) and works like a scrollsaw. So I bought some blades that start with the letter "T" so I assumed they were T-shank blades (hope I was right cause I got quite a few different styles).
And the mini saw will come in real handy the next time I have to cut out a new servo tray (which has been more than once)
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
tiger - with the multi saw the blades do NOT reciprocate like in a jigsaw but turn like in a drill or Dremel tool.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html are rotary bits and not reciprocating like a jigsaw. They will still do many tasks though.
tiger - with the multi saw the blades do NOT reciprocate like in a jigsaw but turn like in a drill or Dremel tool.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html are rotary bits and not reciprocating like a jigsaw. They will still do many tasks though.
#100
tigerdude426,
I received the money order today and your package was shipped Priority Mail USPS should be there by the end of the week. Hope you like it I used your table top units over the weekend on my winter project just to see how practical they where. All I can say is I'm sad I had to part with them THEY SURE WORKED GREAT! Off to the shop to cut my own set have a good one and thanks for the $.
I received the money order today and your package was shipped Priority Mail USPS should be there by the end of the week. Hope you like it I used your table top units over the weekend on my winter project just to see how practical they where. All I can say is I'm sad I had to part with them THEY SURE WORKED GREAT! Off to the shop to cut my own set have a good one and thanks for the $.


