#1) I wonder if I should attempt to cut out a second pair of cradle tops for my table top cradles so I don't have to keep removing them from one to the other.

#2) I used a wrench to twist the plug on the banana plug and "yes" they do just screw right off. Then you stick the wire in the hole at the end and solder. Don't need heat-shrink tube which I like, you just screw it right back onto the casing.

But I still have to solder the terminals at the other end of the wires that clip onto the battery. And because they are not insulated I will need to cover them with heat-shrink tubing.

I can cut you another set if you like.

Sorry. I'm on a 38Kbps dial-up at home and sometimes I don't wait the full five minutes for the images on threads to load-up on Friday nights. I didn't notice his had the flexible tails. On further checking mine is a Hobbico. The Radio Shack ones I do have are also threaded but solderless (and still don't look anything like his - they are smooth, parallel cylindrical sleeves). The wires go in the center, out the side, and the plastic sleeve threads lock them in.

Dial-up does suck. That's what I have here at home too. I use the solderless ones at work too although I often solder them anyway. At least he's figured his out.

Here is my first attempt. Although I have soldered control rods and clevises and ball-links, this is my first attempt EVER of soldering wire.
Please be honest with me, do not worry about my feelings. I would rather worry about me hurting myself or others than a few honest opinions of a job done bad. So please tell me honestly how the first wire came out.

This is the positive wire that will be soldered onto either my charger or starter in place of the alligator clips already on.

OK then, first are the pics of the step-by-step application.
I did notice a tiny exposed copper wire at the tip of the insulation about the size of a tip of a pen. Will that affect the operation or cause any shorts?

A pic of the exposed wire.

Pics of the finished wire.

Although I am anxious to go ahead with the other wires, I will wait to here from some of you on how it came out and how you think it will or won't work.

You will get more strength from the connection if you get the solder inside the plug. You should not see so much solder on the outside like you have it. With a glob of solder will also make harder to thread the plastic part back onto it. What are you using for flux and did you tin the wire first? Flux is a must it makes the solder flow much better I use a great paste product from Radio Shack.

You have what is called a "cold solder connection". You would probably get away with it but lets work on improving it. First let's repair the one you've done. Place the wire back in the vise like in pic #8. Clamp VERY lightly so not to crush. Apply heat to the connector and NOT to the wire until you see the solder flow smooth and shiney. Remove heat and DO NOT TOUCH until it cools on its own. Do not even breathe on it.

Biggest problem is that it appears that you did NOT tin the wire before you started soldering the assy and kept GLOBBING solder on the mess. You need to strip the wire like you did and then put in the vise without the plug. Apply heat carefully to the end of the wire until hot enough to melt solder when it touches the WIRE and not the iron. Let just enough solder flow into the wire to fill the strands and not build up the diameter. Apply connector parts as needed. Apply heat to the connector as above until it will melt solder applied at the rear of the connector where the wire enters. Apply just enough solder to fill cavity. Let cool as above without touching.

You should be done (after final assy of connector parts).

This is a learned skill that you will NOT get right the first time. I've been doing it for 40 years now and it's so automatic that it's hard to teach it.

This electronic-quality rosin soldering flux is mixed with petroleum jelly and ideal for electrical and electronic soldering applications. Can be removed by wiping with a cloth or with cleaning solvent. Flux core solder is good as well but using both will make the solder flow like a river where you want it.

Sorry about the inside comment most I've used are hollow guess yours are not. Yes tinning is simply putting a thin coat on the wire just enough to make it silver smooth not globy (is that a word). These plugs get a lot of use and nothing is more frustrating then when they fall off at the field. It's time to get the chicken stick then and those suck for larger engines.

My dad taught me to solder when I was 8 years old. I hated it at the time. But I have thanked him constantly since then that he did teach me. Tigerdude, like just about everything else in this hobby, you'll get better the more you do it. But don't let on bad solder joint stop you from trying. Just redo it like Bruce said and you'll be fine.

Ken

Another (and probably final) attempt at soldering. Here it is with another positive wire and banana plug setup. Is it any better?

I am not worried about the solder on the threads as this time (if it is acceptable) I will be using a heat-shrink tube.

Let me know.

Could someone please let me know where (online) I can order solderless banana plugs and banana jacks, and possibly a solderless 12V battery attachment to turn the one clip into two so I can have two separate items (charger and starter) attached to the battery at once? Must take American Express.

Looks better keep at it you'll get on to it with time we all did.

Thank you.
But that does not tell me if they'd work or not. Would short out the battery or starter/charger or not. And I do not have any more spare banana plugs to practice on.

I have browsed the web and have found solderless banana plugs but apparently they do not make solderless banana jacks.

If you could show pics of the inside of your box sticktickler to possibly show me your connections to the battery and banana jacks that would be a great help.

If I can not use the soldered wires I am attempting to do, and can not find BOTH solderless banana plugs AND banana jacks, I am going to have to go the other route and use the alligator clips already attached to the charger and starter and make the terminal with the screw as first suggested. It is not worth the hassle to try to change to banana plugs when the alligator clips will work just as good (and are already attached).

So I believe I will be going to Radio Shack OR Carr Hardware OR order online for the components for the terminal you suggested sticktickler. I think that would be the easiest route for me to take.

The concern I have is this: Because the screw is connected to the battery (here comes the stupid question ) can't I get zapped by touching it or do I need to touch both the negative AND positive to get a zap?

What are these items called? What are the technical names for them so I can see if i can find them on the net?

I am not normally a quitter but this is the best route for me to take, I have to think of my and other's safety first and foremost. I will learn the art of soldering I am sure some day, but not at the risk of anyone's safety.

The photos I posted the other day of adapters and terminals came from the Radio Shack web site. All are solderless.

Go to the Radio Shack store in your city.

TJ MAXX PLAZA
686 MERRILL RD SPC 15
PITTSFIELD , MA 01201

413-443-5103
Store Hours:
Mon-Sat 9:30 am - 8:00 pm
Sunday 11 am - 6 pm

EDIT:

I found these:

I think I will use these, if you all tell me they are solderless and the sleeves crimp onto the wires to hold them in.

To set up two external terminals I would need:

0.250'' Vinyl Insulated Piggy-Back Push-On Would need two, one for battery positive and one for negative.
0.250'' Vinyl Insulated Female Push-On Would need two, one for top of piggy-back positive and one for piggy-back negative.
16-14 ga. Vinyl Insulated Ring Terminal Would need one each for around each screw (one for starter and one for charger).

Would also need two #6 screws, four #6 hex nuts, two #6 lock-nuts, two each of red and black wires.

The two 14-gauge black wires and two 14-gauge red wires would be crimped onto the piggy-back terminals. Then the wires would go up and be connected to the ring terminal
Please tell me that they are what you suggested in your previous post carrelh and that they are solderless and the vinyl sleeves crimp, and they are the correct size I will need (the blue-colored terminals which are 16-14 gauge).

If this would work then my problems are solved and I can get to work setting up my terminals.

I still would like to know if I can get zapped on the screw?

I would like to have two terminals, you never know when you would need both. And they will be far enough away so as not to short each other out.

The wire you soldered will work fine.

As for the connectors, the photos came from
www.radioshack.com
> cables, parts, and connectors
> connectors and connectivity
> crimp connectors and terminals

If you use #6 screws, that' s the stud size.

One thing that will help your technique immensely is to use a soldering gun of at least 100W. If it doesn't get the part hot enough it just won't solder well. I can't tell from the image what size that one you are using might be (the screw retained tip is a hint it should be a good wattage, though). Tinning the wire first helps, but you may be undergunned for the job at hand. I use a 200/260W "two-speed' gun and it doubles as a silver solderer (and a rope cutter/sealer with that attachment) but it will fry light components.

Any answer to post #169 would be appreciated. I really do thank all of you for your help. This is all very complicated to me and I am grateful for all your patience. But if post #169 is acceptable then I can go to Carr Hardware tomorrow and pick up the necessary components. I want to install all the major components on my flight box before I stain it. I installed a screwdriver set complete with storage rack on the backside of the box and once the terminals are complete I will begin staining the box hopefully by the weekend. Then I can go back to completing my Tower Trainer 40

In post #139 RCKen mentioned he had wheels on his flight box and that got me to athinking. Hhmmmmmmm .
I wonder if there was a way to attach wheels to my box. With the weight this box is gonna end up with I think wheels would be cool and appropriate.
Maybe like a wheelbarrow type of setup. A children's wagon wheels design maybe with a metal brace of some kind to hold it level when stationary.

Does that sound doable? Is it possible to design something that would work?

Yes, those are crimp-on terminals. Don't you think the people in the hardware store could have answered that question?