You should be able to find some crimping pliers similar to, but cheaper than, these somewhere around town.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../crimptool.php

No, to be honest I don't think they could have. The only hardware store I can get to (Carr Hardware) their so-called electronics "expert" didn't even know what banana plugs were when I asked him if they carried any.

Even if you touched both positive and negative at the same time standing in water you would not feel much from that battery. The contacs are just to small providing to much resistance making the current flow to low for you to get any real fatal jolt. Your skin resistance (not soaked in water) generally ranges from 2-50 kohms the most current you're going to pull is a few milliamps at most. A 12 volt car battery could give you a bit of a buzz but still not enough to really harm you. In most deaths or electrocutions it's the higher currents that kills not the lower DC voltages but these sure can burn. The perception of electric shock can be different depending on the voltage, duration, current, path taken, frequency, etc. Current entering the hand has a threshold of perception of about 5 to 10 mA (milliampere) for DC and about 1 to 10 mA for AC at 60 Hz. Shock perception declines with increasing frequency, ultimately disappearing at frequencies above 15-20 kHz. In some cases 16 volts might be fatal to a human being when the electricity passes through organs such as heart. Ventricular fibrillation - A low-voltage (110 to 220 V), 50 or 60-Hz AC current traveling through the chest for a fraction of a second may induce ventricular fibrillation at currents as low as 60mA. With DC, 300 to 500 mA is required. If the current has a direct pathway to the heart (e.g., via a cardiac catheter or other electrodes), a much lower current of less than 1 mA, (AC or DC) can cause fibrillation. Fibrillations are usually lethal because all the heart muscle cells move independently. Above 200mA, muscle contractions are so strong that the heart muscles cannot move at all.
A much grater concern for your safety with regard to wiring a 12 volt DC power system is a direct short (touching of both bared wires + and - together). Tremendous heat can build up in the wires cuasing serious burns and melting the insulation which can provide fuel for a fire. Effectively getting out of control and burning your house down in a worse case situation. As previously discussed excessive heat and gases from charging have also led to house fires so keep the battery well vented and never leave a charging battery unattended.

The last post on the soldering I did is the absolute best I can do. So to make things simple, I am keeping the alligator clips and installing the screw terminal as first suggested. Case finally closed (which I am sure you guys are grateful for) I will post pics of the finished box sometime during the week. Thank you to all who had patience with me in my lack of electrical understanding.

No, it's not the absolute best you can do, it's what you're willing to settle with.

I'm not trying to sound cold hearted here, but you're really over-thinking the entire situation. If you don't want to solder then just use the existing banana plugs that you have. Trim the plastic off the back of them so they are bare metal, stick them into the banana jacks on your fight box, and then clip the alligator clips to them when you want to use your starter. Simple, quick, and it works. Problem solved.

Ken

So what about the wheels concept?

Tiger,
If you want wheels then by all means put wheels on it. It's really a personal choice whether you want them or not. As I've already said above I don't want to lug a heavy flight box around, but there are others that want to. Who's wrong and who's right? there isn't any wrong or right when you get down to something like this, you need to do what you want and what works for you. There have been a lot of people here that have presented their ideas and what they do, but what you choose it completely up to you. If you don't want to carry a heavy box then put some wheels on it and roll it out.

Ken

I wasn't necessarily asking if I should. I was asking if anyone new if it could be done and if they had any ideas.

Yes it can be done, we even have guys at work who have put small electric motors on their tool boxes to move them around to different machines of course in this case you'd need all terrain wheels and possibly 4 wheel drive to the field...so how far do you want to take it?? thats what it all boils down to...Rog

Sure I always have ideas but to put wheels on the box will make it even heavier for you will need to lift it at some point. You know like getting it in the house or out of the car unless you put a motor on it and drive it to the field and park it in the garage. All jokes aside I'd simply build a cart with caster wheels that the box can sit upon which you can bring to the field. There are many inexpensive hand carts available to buy already made like this one I found see link below.
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_...Handi%2DMovers

There is a small field about two blocks from my house that a guy flies his plane at. Easy access to it on the side roads and the field is always mowed so the wheels don't have to be that big, just about 3-4 inches diameter.

You have a very good point there. It would have been hard trying to figure out a way to attach a long enough handle to pull anyways. Now to find a cart cheap enough that is only as big to just fit the box onto, I don't want it too big.

The one from the link is only 19"x29 1/4" looks very good to me think I may get one too. But wow check this one out it hydraulics up to a table way cool.

It's moments like these that remind me why I use just a tool bag with tools and supplies along with a small tote that holds fuel and starting gear.

True but the real fun is in the gadgets aint it?

We have several guys in the club with boxes that have four legs that drop down. Very nice and probably something I will end up with (the knees ain't what they used to be).

Where is the link to that one and how many 100s of $$$$ is it? [sm=greedy.gif]

That woud be perfect for my back and knee problem, but way out of economical reach [X(]

http://www.handtrucksrus.com/materiallift.aspx Here you go but remember you still got to lift this out of the car or truck too! Hey cool just found a bunch of these lift tables on E-bay for 89.00 go check it out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Heavy-Duty-Mobil...QQcmdZViewItem

We have one of those lift tables at work, dont know how much it costs, but I doubt you could pick one up by yourself,,its about the weight of a pallet jack.....Rog

I think these heavy lift tables are only necessary if you have to park a mile from your flight line to unload. If you have a bad back or knees it would be nice but like I said you still got to get it out of the car or truck I however have a TOMMY LIFT on my truck YIPEEEEE!

Heavy lift tables are just what the name implies - HEAVY! It will be like dragging an anchor around behind you because they are not meant to be cross-country vehicles.

Well I don't fly from a field I need a 4x4 to get into gees my landing gear is weaker than the lift cart wheels and roll just fine on grass. I'm sure any of these carts will be fine at any WELL EQUIPTED flying club with asphalt or concrete drives and parking.

I devised this simple handle setup for my box. I have decided it would be simpler to have the casters installed on the box. It will only be adding a few ounces to the weight and I fugure that is not significant enough to matter.

I asked the guy at Carr Hardware and they assured me that the casters handle weight is 125lbs per caster X 4 would be a handle weight evenly distributed of around 500lbs. Even if the details are off a bit there is no way my box would be even close to 100lbs.

The handle had to be removable as it would have been a bother to have it on all the time.

The hardware I got for each caster are 1/4x3/4 bolts, 1/4 hexnuts and washers.

The two swivel casters on the left in the pic have brake systems to keep the box mobile while I work on the airplane at the field. The two on the right are just non-swivel type cause I didn't want all four casters to swivel on me while in motion. The two non-swivel will be installed at the backside of the box opposite the handleside while the swivel casters will be closer to the handle. All casters are 2" and very well constructed but lightweight.

I will have foam lining for the gasoline can and battery to protect them from the bolts.

I have the components needed to do the exterior terminals.

I have #10 panhead machine screws, hexnuts and locknuts. I have the piggyback terminals for the battery, the female terminals to connect the wires to the battery, and the hole terminals to connect the wire to the screws. I have enough 14-gauge red and black wire and hardware to do two sets of both positive and negative terminals.

I know I have been told that I do not need two sets but I would rather be prepared in case I need two going at once. I will space them plenty apart as to prevent shorting out.

Now I just gotta get things going and get this box finished so I can get it stained and organized.

Til later.

Steve if I was you I think I would reinforce that end piece of the box if you plan to pull it around from the hook. You could easily pull the end piece off the box those are no load glue joints unlike a dovetail joint like a dresser drawer. They where not meant for that kind of outward pulling force which you will be applying with the handle. Beef the side section up with some 90 degree angle stock in the outer corners see drawing USE 30 min EPOXY and be neat then you should be fine.