Just wanted some opinions. I have generally used a wire cable for my throttles, but at the field the other day one of the guys suggested that I move to a firm flex throw rod, are there any strong feelings out there? I have had some problems with Engine Outs and the guy at the field suggested it was because of my throttle set up. I have made the change to a hard rod, bent to get around my fuel tank, it seems to have much less play and was pretty easy to set up. On the other hand I had people tell me to use the cable in the first place.

I guess what ever works, but what is the standard.

Just wondering.

Manks

To quote an old song, "different strokes for different folks!"

I usually use a cable set up so that a hit on the nose doesn't translate into a broken servo gear. I used to use an override set up with springs. I didn't have trouble with either of them... but that might mean I'm using a more forgiving engine than some.

Only reason to not use something is if it sticks or flexes. A braided cable inside a tube is good if each end of the tube is locked down, and the cable is not binding in the tube. Use that setup almost every airplane. Now that the carburetor arms are plastic, nothing to avoid up there.

There is so little force required to control a carburetor, there isn't really any setup that doesn't work if it's installed correctly.

That's pretty much how I feel as well, but I made the change on my trainer to a hard rod and it seems to work pretty well, I think there was a bit of flex in the cable and it was starting to fray so it was time to change it anyway. I also put a rod into my GP .40 Cub, but it was more of a necessity for that, I had to put a couple of bends in the rod to get it in the right spot, if I used a cable it would not have worked as well, it also looks pretty cool!

i use a mixture of nyrod and solid wire rod.when i need to flex or bend slightly i will use nirod in that section

Personally, I prefer flex cable. Since the throttle linkage often has to be worked around the fuel tank, this type provides the easiest, most friction-free setup.

Your "engine out" problems are caused by the set up of the linkage, not the type of the linkage. They can also be caused by improper engine tuning.

Dr.1

To each his own///// I like a solid rod that way after i put in after run oil I can close the throttle by hand if I want to

To me it is not only a matter of personal preference, but it will also vary from one model to the next.

So I say, "Whatever works"

I used to use cable but I've switched to using .047 music wire in a golden rod inner sleeve (hey if it's good enough for Sullivan Cable it works for me)
I'll solder on a 2-56 threaded coupler and use a nylon clevis on engines with a metal throttle arm. If it's a plastic arm I'll just solder on a metal clevis.

The .047 rod is still fairly flexible but a bit stiffer and lighter than cable. The Servo arm gets a screw set EZ connector..

I use the cable, it`s easier to set up the 4 strokes .

How is a 4 stroke throttle different from a 2 stroke?

BOY !! What a response.
Just GREAT !

Where were you guys forty years ago ?

My LHS was a hard ware store,without good advice.

Thank you . RCU

Matt

The four stroke, at least the one I had, the throttle was on the other side of the carb (left side if viewing from the rear). That made for some interesting linkage setup in the plane that I had that engine installed. I had to carve some of the fuselage cheek next to where the carb linkage was to make clearance.

So, if you decide to go four stroke, make sure you look such things over.

One more thing I might suggest, no matter what method you finally decide on: avoid is metal-to-metal contact at the carb throttle arm. Some are made of plastic, so if that's the case, then it won't be a problem. But some are made of metal. So, avoid using a metal clevis to make the connection. I use these neat little plastic Dubro Ball Socket gizmo's that work great. The ball attaches to the throttle arm and the socket attaches to the hardware you use for the linkage from the servo, for a 40 - 60 size, you might use 2-56 hardware.

I use a length of Sullivan Golden Rod with a 2-56 threaded rod that has been screwed into the center of the golden rod. The golden rod is flexible and strong. Just provide two or three hard points for the guide tube along the path from the servo through the firewall. Scrape or sand the surface of the guide tube a bit, enough for epoxy to 'grab' on to at the hard points. The golden rod will slide easily through the guide tube so you can 'steer' it around any obsticals (within reason). Then attach the ball socket to the 2-56 rod, and adjust the opposite end (servo) for the correct length and put a clevis on there and off you go.

On most 4-stroke engines you can turn the carburetor around so that the control arm is in an easier position to route your throttle pushrod to.

Ken

I have magnum 4 stroke and the throttle linkage is on the left side looking at the plane from the prop.