Starter battery setup
#27
The battery leads can be run outside the case through the existing tab holes.
The Series adapter can be unplugged from the batteries to charge each one individually.
I charge mine using either my ICE Intellipeak charger or my Team Check point TC-1030 charger, but any decent charger that is configurable will do.
The Series adapter can be unplugged from the batteries to charge each one individually.
I charge mine using either my ICE Intellipeak charger or my Team Check point TC-1030 charger, but any decent charger that is configurable will do.
#29
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From: Rochester,
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Thank you guys,
Just wish I knew how to hook it up so there were two jacks on the outside of the case soI could just leave everything connected and still charge individually. There must be a way. The lead acid is setup that way with a single jack.
It'd be so convenient as Ihave the leads for going from my multiplex to that jack.
Just wish I knew how to hook it up so there were two jacks on the outside of the case soI could just leave everything connected and still charge individually. There must be a way. The lead acid is setup that way with a single jack.
It'd be so convenient as Ihave the leads for going from my multiplex to that jack.
#33
The lug connectors I used ( closest to the starter itself ) are really NOT needed.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
#34
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From: Rochester,
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ORIGINAL: opjose
The lug connectors I used ( closest to the starter itself ) are really NOT needed.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
The lug connectors I used ( closest to the starter itself ) are really NOT needed.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
And are you just tucking it all underneath the starter after connecting?
Thanks.!
#35
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ORIGINAL: cappaj1
Are the connectors coming out of the case from the pack the ones that came with the packs?
And are you just tucking it all underneath the starter after connecting?
Thanks.!
ORIGINAL: opjose
The lug connectors I used ( closest to the starter itself ) are really NOT needed.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
The lug connectors I used ( closest to the starter itself ) are really NOT needed.
Only the Tamiya style connectors are needed.
I believe Tower has a pre-wired series connector that would save you some soldering too.... but I cannot find the link.
Searching on their site does not easily turn it up. I posted the link on another thread some time ago.
And are you just tucking it all underneath the starter after connecting?
Thanks.!
#36
ORIGINAL: cappaj1
Are the connectors coming out of the case from the pack the ones that came with the packs?
Are the connectors coming out of the case from the pack the ones that came with the packs?
The Tamiya ( white ) connectors coming out of the bottom are right from the batteries as they come.
ORIGINAL: cappaj1
And are you just tucking it all underneath the starter after connecting?
Thanks.!
And are you just tucking it all underneath the starter after connecting?
Thanks.!
The lug connectors hang out ( as I said, they are really not needed ), but this has never been a problem.
The two packs fit within the case at an angle.
It may seem that you are forcing them to go in, but when you screw the back down, everything closes up fine.
However you do have to remove the inner flashing ( I used a dremel tool to do this ) and plastic "ears" that are left to add strength.
#38
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From: Rochester,
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Forgot to get leads to charge the Wolfpack packs which have Tamiya connectors.
Will this setup work?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXWV20&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXSGN6&P=7
Or is there a simpler way I'm not thinking of?
Thanks.
Will this setup work?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXWV20&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXSGN6&P=7
Or is there a simpler way I'm not thinking of?
Thanks.
#39
Nope, those small connectors will NOT do it as you are pulling too much current.
There is a ready made connector set from Tower which does the trick;
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXMTZ3+&search=Go]Click me for the connector.[/link]
You'll then just need to wire in the corresponding connector on the starter.
That's it. Two solder points and heat shrink and your done.
There is a ready made connector set from Tower which does the trick;
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXMTZ3+&search=Go]Click me for the connector.[/link]
You'll then just need to wire in the corresponding connector on the starter.
That's it. Two solder points and heat shrink and your done.
#41
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From: Rochester,
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ORIGINAL: gaRCfield
I think this is what you are looking for to charge your battery packs:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXVJW0&P=7
I think this is what you are looking for to charge your battery packs:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXVJW0&P=7
I was told to charge the packs around 3.0 but I charged at 1.5 and it took about 45 minutes. Probably should charge at .35 for longest life, right?
#42
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From: Rochester,
NY
ORIGINAL: opjose
Nope, those small connectors will NOT do it as you are pulling too much current.
There is a ready made connector set from Tower which does the trick;
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXMTZ3+&search=Go]Click me for the connector.[/link]
You'll then just need to wire in the corresponding connector on the starter.
That's it. Two solder points and heat shrink and your done.
Nope, those small connectors will NOT do it as you are pulling too much current.
There is a ready made connector set from Tower which does the trick;
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXMTZ3+&search=Go]Click me for the connector.[/link]
You'll then just need to wire in the corresponding connector on the starter.
That's it. Two solder points and heat shrink and your done.
I was asking about charge leads for Tamiya to banana.
#43
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just wire them for 14.4v and charge them at 14.4v
screw the connectors, those things cant handle amps at all (timaya ones are bad, get some deans or traxxas high current ones)
or just solder. how hard is that?
i would do a .35 charge if i had the time. if not a 2 hour charge
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