poor judgement

lol, nah it was a homemade job rolland, just some stainless wire/rod and a couple of bits from a carb linkage i think... its not on there at the mo - been offroading!. works pretty well - keeping the rear level(ish) helps loads to stop the inside front wheel spinning on the way out of corners. i didnt fit one on the front, doesnt seem to need it - imo.

rolland

Thanks I'll figure something out. I mostly race on a dirt oval and a sway bar would help with bringing the back end around and keeping the truck flat through the corners.


rolland

poor judgement

sorry mate - didnt see the first post u made...

hope the tmaxx shafts will work out, they will take a lot more hammer than my plastic ones i reckon.

as for going back to 2.2" wheels... i just drilled out my old cen plastic hexes and a set of wheels so i could try them out on the tmaxx shafts... then realised they wont clear the tmaxx hub... oops. maybe possible to make them clear the hubs, as they werent a million miles out. but i see ur point. just bare it in mind if ur gonna use tmaxx hubs also!!

yea.... the expense of those bloody shafts. to be honest i always have at least 2 spare ones - still do! - so i just had to grab another pair off e bay - i figured i was gonna break them anyway, and it felt reeeeaaaaal good cuttin em up. i pay £12-£15 for a pair on e bay, retail they are around £23 a pair... cos of that i dont run them in the rear, i use the dogbones still. on the rally that is.

good luck with the shafts tho rolland, its a real relief to actually be able to trust a set after all those years of breakages!

rolland

I have never broken a set so far I guess that I have been real lucky. I have twisted a few dog bones but I'm still on my origanal cvd's. With the OS motor though I don't expect them to live long because they have to be getting weak.
I'm not totaly sure that I am going to use the maxx shafts if I can find something shorter I will try to do that. Ofna makes a cvd to use 17mm hexes I just have to find some pillow ball knuckles.



rolland

poor judgement

hey make sure u have the set screws tight in ur cvs - if u have the setscrew type...

doing a fast pass with my rally, it suddenly locked up and spun past me - the right rear cv pin had worked loose and cut threw the hub from pillow ball to pillow ball. no other drivetrain damage which kinda surprised me. and yes that is surface rust...

still a single speed rally setup, to hell with 2nd gear, i have a 18t 1st gear pinion - works great!

whoops - forgot, pic of typical break in my cv... always the same.

so no, still no engine mounts.

azzman

Hey PJ, I have only had one CVD break there, and that was when the RH/F just caught a stone wall. My breaks have been at the point just before the ball. Or I twist them at the cup end, and sometimes snap them there, but limiting suspension travel in the up direction should aleviate that scenario, those lower arms bend quite a bit (which also means they are forgiving).

rolland

I cursed myself with my last post. I twisted the cvd's off at the diff cup.
So, now I have a set to try you mod or maybe something different but along the same lines.


rolland

azzman

Hey Rolland, have you tried the dogbones up front yet?

rolland

We must have been posting at the same time I didn't even see your post on breakages. Is that a common place for them to break? This is my first set breaking (thats what I get for racing with a 1/5 scale) and if it is I wonder how hard it would be to strengthen that area.

As far as dogbones in the front go, I like to turn corners. The Savage is setup to use dogbones but I think the MT2's axle stubs wouldn't live all that long, even if they were modded.
Are you using them?


rolland

poor judgement

rolland - yep all of mine that have broken have been on that point, even with 2.2" rally tires and wheels fitted - granted tho, i am an artistic crash master... all have been at a fair turn of speed and have normally involved a large immovable object, was a litter bin this time around that i was using as a corner marker, only 18 innches between the bin and a wall, so i was pushing my luck i guess.

as for strengthening it... i cant see a way myself, what are u thinking?

aha - so u finally snapped a cv!! i couldnt believe u had got away with it for so long. if u need any pics or info on the shaft mod, gimme a shout, but i think its all here on the forum tbh.

the amount of times i have cartwheeled into, over, under and across stuff, while my mates or the missus has had time to say "well i reckon thats a gonna, rob. best find a carrier bag for the bits" before its stopped the cartwheeling, only to find that its still fine, is amazing now those shafts are on. of course its only really necessary if u plan on using tmaxx wheels.

what engine are u running btw rolland? did u go over to the 18cvr-x too?

azzman

Rolland: Na I havent tried it yet (dogbones up front).

As for strengthening what we have, what about a heat treatment like heating them up with a gas torch till they are red hot, then dumping them in oil? Im not too sure of the precise process but an engineer would know.

I sort of went down the road of getting some stronger cvd's made but nobody is really interested here in NZ.

poor judgement

did u get any quotes for having them made? just out of interest...

rolland

Yes I went to the O.S. When I was looking for pinions one of the hobby shops made me an offer I couldn't say no to.

My immovable object was a 35 pound 1/5 scale. Those things are basically a wall with wheels. They did go through quite abit of abuse first and some really impressive high speed cartwheels. I was starting to think I got some weird experimental cvd or something from CEN.

On the strengthening issue I need to do some looking around but I have the ability to surface harden, temper, and even mig weld, there is also the possibility of having them chromed (might be to expensive) or powder coated. If that is a common place for them to break then the twisting is more than likely the cause and that is what has to be limited. I know of some machinists and cnc guy's, I'll have to talk to them about it. But I'm thinking a quick temper and some surface hardening will help them out alot.



rolland

poor judgement

its worth a try i reckon rolland, just dont go too far and make them too brittle mate.

poor judgement

finally my engine mounts turned up... shame im missing some bits from of the order..

the cen part number is CT040 - supposed to allow any big block to fit the funfactor. no, i havent aligned anything yet, have to look at fuel tank positioning and such like. the mounts do require some shimming for the SH28 engine tho - the mounts are a little low.

i need a flywheel & clutch setup before i go any further, oh and some engine sealant spray. will see what i find at the lhs...

Scouser

Sounds like you are making some progress there mate. Can't wait to see the finished truck.

poor judgement

yea im off work with flu and an eye infection - one nasty snotty mess mate! if i can be arsed i should have it sorted by the w/e

Scouser

You paint a pretty picture there buddy!! Good luck with the truck.

poor judgement

lol cheers...

teaser pics! ha... just to give an idea of the layout that im looking at. still looking for one of the long ofna racing tanks in the uk, to go where the batt & rx box are at the mo.

no, i wont be leaving the rally setup on the chassis...

rolland

You know that you want to try the rally setup with that motor.
I know I would at least once.

For a clutch I suggest finding one with a small diameter flywheel or you might need to shim the motor up even more. The smallest one that I have found is the XTM sliding clutch and flywheel setup http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149596.asp real smooth and positive engagement but the clutch shoes does not live very long. In something like that I don't think any clutch shoe is going to live all that long unless they are aluminum but then you will wear out clutch bells.

rolland

poor judgement

hmmm... ok, maybe i will give the rally a try. its gonna be somewhat tricky to find traction tho i reckon... oh and thats a point, these SH.28s have had some probs with the crank to conrod bearing failing. i have asked and searched about, but it seems that i can only run it to see if i have a bad one, no way of telling by eye... which is something to bare in mind with the revs and tuning. hopefully the light truck and a rich tune will help it out a bit - we will see.

as for clutch shoe material and clutch type - i was hoping that some teflon shoes might work, to try to give the rest of the drivetrain a bit of a chance. i dont think teflon shoes will hold tho - any thoughts? and as for sliding clutches, they dont like sand or dust very much do they? so... i was thinking perhaps an alloy 2 shoe setup would maybe give the best of both worlds?

i have here 4 threaded cen bells, and 1 cen 14/18 single piece steel bell, so i have a few to play with.

i did have some 17 and 21t hardened steel pinions on order, but have heard nothing - i will give the guy a kick, n see what happens.

u are right about the fly wheel tho rolland, the cen flywheel is pretty close to the brake seat with 14/18 pinions, obviously going bigger is going to help, and i suspect the engine will pull taller ratios, thats the main reason i ordered the 17 and 21t, i think they may be the most sensible/controllable, with a hideous top speed!

poor judgement

just a thought...

anyone know of any companies producing threaded inserts?

what i am after is a m10 internal thread and a m12 external, doesnt leave a lot of wall thickness, i know, but if they are available i could use the genesis later pinions. this would save me the cost of a custom 17t.

dan42

http://www.helicoil.com/products/helicoil.html These work very well.

poor judgement

thanks for that, but i cant see them working in this application as u need to use their own special tap. unless i missed something...?

rolland

Most stock 1/8 scale fly wheels are quite a bit bigger than the stock CEN one. If you get creative you might be able to re-use the stock CEN one. I know that a 3 shoe Ofna flywheel will fit the the stock motor on a JT chassis but I don't know how it will work with the big block especially if you had to space the motor up. I suppose that the main determining factor is how the flywheel lines up with the cut out in the chassis.

I haven't had a problem with my XTM sliding clutch in really dusty conditions but I haven't ran it in sand. I also haven't heard any complaints about them with sand. I suppose that the best thing to do is to e-mail one of the manufacturers and ask.

You are kind of on your own with the threaded insert, I have never seen on or heard of one in that size. Try checking with a local machine shop and see if they can make one. I the long run it might be easier and quicker to do this.

Exactly how much bigger is the Genisis clutch bell compared to an 1/8 scale clutch bell? I have never seen one so I don't know.

You might want to keep the battery and reciever were they are to help balance the truck. That is alot of weight that you added to one side of the truck.

rolland