poor judgement

thanks for the info on the clutch, maybe its worth a shot, its just the wear factor of the shoes with that type, like u said.

but if the ofna 1/8 fly wheel fits the standard motor with standard ratios, then i reckon i have a chance that it will also fit my ratios without hitting the brake seat, seeing as i have ground so much off the seat, and i will be using larger pinions. i think im gonna be ok. i will find out this afternoon with a bit of luck.

as for the cutout in the chassis - it is directly below the flywheel collet on the crank with these engine mounts fitted, so i cant see a prob there.

that weight distribution on the chassis - yea i know... just trying to get as much weight up front as possible. maybe i could swap the steering servo over to the other side and put the batt in the standard servo position. main issue is that the tank will need modding to stay in the normal place with the rear exhaust manifold taking up so much space.

the batt was living in the rear mounted box, which was a wheelie encouraging place to go... with the .28, erm, wheelies are gonna be a right royal pain in the ass i feel. maybe i should tie a ct4s to the front diff casing to keep the front wheels down?

the genesis clutch bell is huge compared to the funfactor one, seriously mate, its not an option... i dont think - will look again at that today.

poor judgement

ok - i have a flywheel and clutch that fit fine. they are a cheapish protech setup with 3 teflon shoes. after a long chat in my lhs, we decided this was maybe the best way to go. we will see.

trouble is... we all forgot about a sg crank nut, i have a nut that fits, but i need the proper one to seat the clutch springs on... the shop is now shut - bummer.

regards to the flywheel clearance - as i had to raise the engine slightly due to the mounts being a tad low, i have gained some clearance on the brake seat as the crank centre line gets closer to the spur gear centre line, if u see what i mean... thats with a 14/18 bell, and 42/38 spurs - the genesis spurs are 43/39, so i will get a tiny bit more clearance with those. seeing as the 14/18 is more than likely as low as i will go, i think i am sorted! cept for that nut - arg!

ah well maybe it will run on monday... maybe...

azzman

....oh the anticipation.......

poor judgement

umean - antici...











...pation. - one for the rocky horror fans out there.

its doin my head in man, just want it done and outta the way. if i got a sensible offer for it, id get rid, but its getting a sensible price for all the bits that i have here. still got the .18 to go in that centre diff chassis too. anyone fancy takin over? im bored of it.

Scouser

Sorry mate, I have got my hands full with the CEN, race preparing the Savage and I am in the process of extending my garage to the tune of a GS SUT pro!!

poor judgement

got this far today...

the pipe will just fit, and i mean just, along the side. i had to move the rear tie bars to the rear of the suspension arms, and make some new holes, but they seem pretty secure on there, no nasty suspension angles or owt. on full compression, the tread of the tires just rubs the pipe with full left lock on. mounted like this also only just gives me enough space to use the U bend from my old spare cen manifold, the rest i will make up as i go along...

gonna have to chop a hell of a lot outta the side of the shell to get it on tho - the whole pipe and manifold are gonna be hanging out the side. might look good, might look stupid, will find out soon.

Scouser

That is going to be one long header. Is there no way of exiting the pipe out of the back a-la Tamiya nitro buggy?

poor judgement

i could do that yea, but its gonna look a bit funny(er) that way and wheelies/flips could well pull it off all the time. i hear u tho, its gonna knock performance a bit this way, which might not be a bad idea for the first few runs, im just trying to keep it as tidy as possible. the tuning might be a prob tho, not sure. i will ask antwar how he gets on with his, as thats a similar setup to what i have here.

have read about the fuel consumption of this engine too, was gonna go for one big tank down the right side, but the weight distribution would suffer more that way i reckon, so im going for this layout i think. just need a battery box and mod the mugen tank and the rear box mounting points.

edit: forgot the pic... doh

poor judgement

how about putting the silencer down the left side as normal, but the other way round?

i dont see why i cant use a length of silicone tube, like the silencer couplers, but longer, to make pretty much all of the manifold/header from. that way i will just need a short, straight flanged stub from the engine to the silicone pipe, and can also keep the manifold length sensible.

the silencer fits there and the shell would need minimal if any cutting for it to cover it.

any reason why i cant use a length of silicone pipe?

azzman

Yea thats sound good. Heres what I would do tho, take your manifold, cut the flange of it, and the end you have just cut, put a silicone joiner on it and join it to your silencer (you have basically flipped it the other way round). Get another header, cut it so you just have a straight piece with the flange on it, join this to the old header with silicone coupler tube.
I reackon that should work ok.

rolland

I have also seen people use copper water pipe to make headers with. On the old wildhobbies forum I belive auto2 did this.



rolland

poor judgement

sounds like a good plan to me rolland.

i noticed last night that 22mm copper pipe is about the same id and od as the manifold. got lots of offcuts here too from sorting the gas supply out on the house. so i will pay a visit to the father in laws - hes a plumber with a 6 acre back yard - woohoo!

still curious about a length of silicone hose tho, i have a couple of metres of it somewhere - any thoughts on using this?

i will go have a look for auto2s gallery, does he still use these forums do u know?

poor judgement

16mm copper pipe....not 22....bloody fingers have a mind of their own

rolland

The problem with using just the silicone is when it gets warm it is going to expand and get really flexible, which could cause it to kink and let the pipe come loose.
If you use copper you can solder the joints together and have a rigid non-flexible connection to the pipe that won't kink or come loose.
Keep in mind that the longer the head pipe the more backpressure it will make. This in turn will cause the motor to make less horsepower but more torque. If you make the head pipe to long it will effect both HP and torque. I am sure that there is a formula somewhere to calculate head pipe length but I have no idea where to look for it.

It looks like auto2 posted a week ago here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...tm.htm#3195081
He was the first one to use the ct4 mounts in a big block conversion that I know of.


rolland

poor judgement

thanks for that re the hose, i wasnt sure at what sort of temps it would start to soften up too much - never tried it.

yea, its looking like im gonna have to knock one up from copper pipe, but getting a tight radius in it without it splitting is gonna be tricky, so i will have to use joints like u say. hmmm it aint gonna be pretty!

forgot the clutch nut on the way home from work, will try to remember tomorrow. ooooo its close to being finished now!

btw - got a pm from auto2, thanks for the help there too

rolland

You can always make it look pretty later. Get it running first then fine tune it to your liking. It's trial and error right now so polishing something that might get trashed is kind of a wasted effort.
Dynamite has this also http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN6624


rolland

poor judgement

oh rolland! come on now - u think its gonna break... [X(], yea, ok, i see ur point - ha

i just want it to be something like the right length to be sure run in is as easy as possible, apparently it takes a while with this motor, and i dont want any funny tuning issues due to monster length manifolds. that one u linked to might work with some straight forward chopping.

once my cam batts are charged i will get a pic of exactly where i want it to make it a bit clearer

poor judgement

like this:

does anyone know offhand a manifold that will fit?

yes i am searching for one, but ideas are more than welcome as there are millions to choose from!

its interesting that the dynamite manifold is so long, as its for a car which i would expect to be tuned more for hp than torque. i was under the impression that the length was very crutial for proper engine running, this manifold suggests to me that there is a lot more to play with than i thought. depends on the engine tho i guess...

digout

I plan on installing an Ofna Hyper .21- 8 port into my MT2. There are two ways in which I have seen the exhausts installed with big blocks in a MT2. One simply used a straight pipe going out the back of the truck and used only the big block "U" header. The other one combined a big block exhaust "U" and a modified MT2 header "U" joined with a silicone coupler to form a "S". These, however had to use a smaller pipe to clear the tires.

Scouser

Just a thought, but are there any plane or heli manifolds that could be adapted?

poor judgement

thanks for the input, guys, i think ive sussed it now. dont know what i was messing about at, i had the bits here in front of me all the time. will sort it tomorrow

AntWar

It did wheelie at about thirty mph off the throttle on stock gearing with just a blip of throttle and the pipe only came off now and again
which just needed pushing back in.
It was a terra crusher stock pipe and although shortish seemed to work well with the 28 engine.

poor judgement

good to see ur truck again antwar. what engine mounts are u using there? and do they use existing mounting holes?

im going to try 14/18t pinions and 43/39t spurs to start out with, do u reckon they will be "reasonably" sensible? surely they arent too tall for the motor...

had clutch shimming issues tonite, sorted now tho, manifold tomorrow. its gonna be a good bit longer than urs antwar, as i have an alloy pipe i dont want it to get too dented, so its going in the standard pipes position - a plastic one is a much better idea!

Scouser

The manifold and engine mount look very similar to those on the Savage. PJ, whats the word, have you got the beast running?

poor judgement

still got the manifold to do, see above post

ha. it all looks like it will work, might be a bit ropey with 2 couplers in the manifold and 1 to the pipe tho... but its my best bet to do it the way i want to, with the parts that i have. expensive bloody hobby.

ant war is scaring me too - wheelies at 30? blip of the throttle? oh dear... this is gonna be interesting. antwar - fancy a meet up and a truck thrashing session? - mad that we live so close with everyone else so far apart, and the .28s etc.