AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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Thought I'd post some picturs of the Bridi Sun Fli 5 I'm building.

I've recently moved in with my fiance so I've been without a shop for a few months. I finally got around to getting a bench and a light set up in the new garage so I can build something.

The fuse is constructed first. The construction is very simple with two piece sides and balsa doublers at the wing saddle. Tri-stock is added to the top sheet and the sides are glued in place with the top sheet on the plans.

The forward section of the top block is made into a hatch to access the fuel tank area. The canopy is attached just behind the hatch. I have a scan of the plans, so I was playing around with the location of the canopy and since it's very similar if not the same canopy as the Dirty Birdy, I put it just behind the firewall and like the way it looks, so I think I'll mount it there and make a hatch on the bottom of the fuse to access the tank.

I'll most likely power the Sun Fly with an HP .61 Gold Cup.

Jim_Purcha

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It'll be interesting to see a nice classic build. Alot of Bridi fuselages were very easy builds.

Jim

vertical grimmace

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If it is OK, I will post some pics of mine as it progresses. I have the wings almost done and the fuselage just needs the front end done. I am waiting for my spinner right now. I have decided to just use sheet stock for the tail. My foam cutting is not going well and will not use a core for the tail now. I am sure it will not effect how it flies and at least it will still be more stock.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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Vertical, no problem posting photos to this thread. I'm not doing a piece by piece build, but rather just some random shots to document the build.

This weekend I didn't get much accomplished. I have both wing panels mostly framed up except for the landing gear blocks, leading edge and center sheeting, wing tips etc, but it is starting to take shape. So far everything has fit well and it's coming out dead straight.

I have decided to move the canopy forward and put the fuel tank access hatch on the bottom. Attaced is a screen shot of the plans with the canopy in it's stock location and with it moved forward.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Last night I joined the wing halves and sheeted the top center section. Next step is to fit the wing to the wing saddle and mount the wing to the fuse. I will also convert this wing to dual aileron servos. In hindsight I should have drilled holes in the ribs for the servo wire. [:@]

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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I was getting ready to install the main gear blocks in the wing and kept thinking about adding retracts. Adding the retracts to the wing is going to be no big deal, but I don't think I have enough room in the nose. I've attached a drawing of the front end for discussion.

I'm planning on using a Hayes 16oz slim tank that is 2.125" inches tall, the .13" measurements are for foam padding allowance.

If I switch to a 2.25" wheel, there is about a 1/2" sticking out below when retracted.

Ideas anyone? [&:]

doxilia

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Jeff,

what about a 14 oz Hayes and a 2" nose wheel?

Mmm... no 14 oz and the 12 is only 1 mm shallower. Pretty tight quarters in there.

The only idea that occurs to me is to use a 2 tank setup with the main behind the wing LE former feeding a 2 oz in the tank bay.

You could also alter the profile of the fuse front bottom... heresy?

Oh, you might have to forget the hatch with retracts or make the retract fuse bottom opening removable. I did that on a small model.

David.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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I might have to pick up one of these Sullivan Flex tanks. Notes say it can be re-shaped with a heat gun. Anyone tried that?

This Is 16oz Slant Type Flextank for Glow Fuel Operation from Sullivan.

FEATURES: Molded from a special flexible, translucent polymer making it easier
to fit into tight places.
Very durable!
Eeasy to install and remove because it can be squeezed.
This tank kit includes all the hardware needed for glow fuel
operation, including twist-tie clamps, brass and nylon tubing,
heavy duty nylon caps, klunk, and rubber plug.
Can be reshaped with a heat gun if desired.
For glow fuel only!

INCLUDES: One 16oz Slant Type Flextank

SPECS: Capacity: 16oz (480ml)
Height: 2-5/16" (59mm)
Width: 2-11/16" (68mm)
Length: 5-3/4" (146mm)

vertical grimmace

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The solution is quite simple....make it a tail dragger.

edh13

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That canopy looks great in the fwd location. A top hatch would be very useful also. I solved my canopy vs. battery hatch problem on a small electric Kaos like this. With a few more magnets maybe something like this would work for you?

EscapeFlyer

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BLASPHEMY!!!



Brian

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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Yeah, I got chastised for making my Dirty Birdy a tail dragger. Looked really nice though...

rcguy!

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"Fixed Gear" You won't notice the difference!

Dave

8178

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I’ve done that a few times and always end up disappointed.

vertical grimmace

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Are these aircraft supposed to be trike? I think they look much better as tail draggers. Just me. I also personally like the way tail draggers handle on the ground. But then again, I only drive manual transmissions in my cars as well. For some reason this seem analogous to me.

EscapeFlyer

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I think some people are just more anal to the original design. (Wait! I think I just called myself anal! [])

It's personal opinion. But mine counts the most!!

Brian

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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I'm sticking with tricycle gear with retracts. The nose wheel may hang below the bottom of the fuse a little, but that won't bother me - much.

vertical grimmace

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But wasn't the gear location optional on these aircraft? I did not realize there was a stock configuration. I am not a historian on this admittidly so I am probably wrong. I know many prefer the way the trike configuration handles on the ground.

doxilia

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All pre-1985 pattern ships had trike gear. Well, maybe all is exaggerating but most did. Not having them would have been the exception.

These models are not scale models and part of the idea of trike gear (there were other reasons) was to allow the model to sit on the ground in the same way it would present in the air. The "draft" of the model also presents with more graceful lines when using trike gear. A modern 2 m pattern ship would by comparison look very awkward with trike gear - the designs have changed a fair bit over the years.

My perception of it.

David.

dhal22

can't we excommunicate people like this from our forum?[X(] Just kidding Vertical Grimmace.

R_G

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GO TRIKE, OR GO HOME!

8178

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The trike gear was also driven by the fact that takeoff and landings were scored. Nowadays in the current pattern, aircraft can crash land and as long as is does not have parts fall off you would most likely get full points. It is more like yes or no situation! If you crash on the runway and nothing falls off, full points.

The good pilots of the classic days made takeoff and landings that were like the aircraft was guided by a laser. The landing was scored until the aircraft stopped. No WAY could a tail dragger get all the points!! I saw a lot of hot shots that blew the points on takeoff, traffic pattern approach and landing. Expect that’s why it is scored the way it is done today.

EscapeFlyer

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I can see the lynch mobs at the next CPA event now...


Honestly, all the pics I've seen with Joe and his original aricraft show trike gear. I never got to see him fly, but it seems as though his designs used trikes because of the reason Mike (8178) stated.

Brian

vertical grimmace

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Well, not being bound by such rules or limitations, mine will be a tail dragger. I do not think an SPA event is even in my district. There was one pattern meet in my state last year, but it was the first in something like 8. Never really had a desire to fly pattern competitively. As blasphemous as it sounds, my sport flying Sun fli 5 will have a tail wheel.

Roary m

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I'm with keeping im a trike; anyway of slapping a quarter inch of plank on the bottom where the wheel retracts up into the fuse, sortof build it up on the underside a little? Just speculating here.