billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

When I got started, about the only thing to use in those ancient days was Ambroid. It has been interesting watching the evolution of all these new fangled adhesives.They may not be cheaper but they sure arestronger and faster. As far as presses go, I like to make use of my Bass Masters book collection for all my flat surfaces like fuselage sides

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

I remember reading some years ago about applying wood glue (I *think* it needs to be the aliphatic type) to the sheeting and the top of the ribs and allowing the glue to dry. Then positioning the sheeting and heating with an iron. I did use this technique when I built my Tiger 60 and, after a number of years, nothing has come undone. I was thinking of trying it with the Simla, but would do a test first to make sure enough heat would make it through the thicker sheeting.

Benefits of this method include having plenty of time to position sheeting, and not having to use weights/pins/etc to hold the sheeting down until the adhesive dried/cured. The article also mentioned that the heat and the pressure of the iron compacted the balsa a bit and made the surface more resistant to light dings.

Cheers,
Richard

kingaltair

My Feedback: (4)

I need to include some pictures of my horizontal stabilizer, elevators etc. It gives you a small feeling of accomplishment to see something DONE in a relatively short time period.

Duane

kingaltair

My Feedback: (4)

The fin is next...stay tuned...don't change that channel. I found the fin to be interesting, and how it turns out depends on the likes of the builder...just look at the difference between Kevin's and mine...Ed's is also included, and we were both trying to look like Ed's.

How you sand and shape the fin matters...

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

A glue I'm going to use is Super 'Phatic, a penetrating aliphatic glue. It wicks in almost as well as thin CA and sands nicely. Other benefits are that it's non-fuming, unlike CA, and the carrier evaporates, so it finishes a bit lighter than CA.

Cheers,
Richard

stefanP

My Feedback: (2)

My Simla kit arrived yesterday(thursday) ."PERFECT " I will going electric powered.My first challange is to get the motor choice correct.One of the biggest issues is that prop diameter is limited to 16"maybe17"I checked the O.S. 95 AX which is list as 2.9hp .In the electric world that is just about 2'200 watts. So this is my challange.Outrunners swing to large of a prop.I'll be looking at Neu motor with a gear box.I want to say a big "THANK YOU!!!!!!" to every person who made this project a reality.
stefanP

YellowBlueBird

My experience with titebond on the doublers for a Primus. On the first one a weight was placed on them and they curled pretty badly. On the second one I got smart and clamped them between two pieces of 3/4 " furniture grade birch plywood with many hundred pounds of pressure. When the clamps came off the next day they went SSppoonnnig and curled just like the first ones. So much for clamps. See "RE: Phil Kraft's " post 80 for several suggestions on glueing doublers. doxilla suggested "laminating epoxy" which sounds like the most forgiving method. Is laminating epoxy the slow setting variety? This problem is one of the reasons that I have been reluctant to start building my KingAltair kit. Some experimenting with pre drying the titebond is certinly in order.

RFJ

For laminating doublers onto fuselage sides I use Zap PT-40 Z-Poxy. A few drops of cyano in the corners will stop the doubler from moving when weighted down for an overnight cure. For weights I use a supply of old 12v starter batteries.

Ray

Michaelj2k

For laminating stuff, I sprinkle balsa dust on the parts. It provides enough of a "grit" to prevent the parts from sliding around while clamping or piling on the weight.

patternflyer76

What I am getting ready to suggest may be too much to ask for. I do not know, because all things are possible. Look at the Simla project to this date, wow. I was thinking in about a year or so we should have an informal/for fun Simla pattern contest centrally located. Yes, I am suggesting that all Simla owners/pilots get together at one field for a weekend pattern contest. I would suggest flying the exact pattern that Ed flew in the Nats with the Simla. I do not know if we could get a copy of the pattern or even find the exact one flown. The only rule is that the plane has to be a Simla. Would this not be cool???

What do you guys think?????

Kevin Clark

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

I like the idea. I guess we wouldneed an event director to set it all up and at least in my case a lot of lead time to get the necessary funding together. Oh yes, and lots of pre-event communication. That having been said, I'm trying to get some information on the one inch carbon fiber wing tube you guys used. Not so much on where you obtained it , but how you used it. Does the aluminum tube slide inside the one inch carbon fiber tube or is it necessary to purchase another carbon fiber tube to slide inside of the one inch carbon fiber tube?

Scirocco14

How about including the Taurus/Primus?

MC

patternflyer76

Perfect idea. All of Ed's most famous with the pattern that they each flew.

Great Idea!!!!!!

I really hope something along the lines of this can come to be.

Thanks:

Kevin Clark

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

My understanding is that the 1-inch CF tube replaces the 7/8-inch aluminum tube. You then would need to make or purchase the correct-size sleeve to replace the ones that came with the kit. This does mean that all the holes have to be opened up from the original 1-inch to fit the new sleeve, which will be about 1.25 inches in diameter. The new sleeve can be made by wrapping the CF tube in something like plastic wrap and then wrapping layers of glass cloth and epoxy. Or you can be lazy like me and order the CF tube with matching phenolic tube from TnT.

I'm still trying to figure out a way to do that without having off-center or oblong holes. It seems the way to do it would be to stack all the parts and perform one opening operation. What to use as the opening tool remains a question.

Cheers,
Richard

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

I vote for central continental U.S. location, in which category Colorado fits best.

Since you have the engine and the Macs muffler, can you tell if 30 degrees was a good amount to rotate the mount, or would a bit more or less have been better? I ask because I got the mount yesterday and can use your procedure of working on the firewall before mounting it. (My engine and muffler won't be in for another week or so.)

Thanks,
Richard

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

You might try a Uni-bit of the proper size. I have one in my tool box that goes up to an inch and three eighths including one step at an inch and a quarter. The only problem would be that you would have to drill each rib one at a time,but if you arecareful it should come out just fine with concentric holes.

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

[quote]ORIGINAL: billberry189


That should do the trick (assuming that the sleeve from TnT cones in at 1.25 inches), especially since the Uni-bit probably has a step at 1 inch, which would center the hole.

I much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.

Cheers,
Richard

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

Richard. thirty degrees of rotation seems to have been just about perfect.

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

Nice! You're really making progress. I finally got my sheet steel and magnets and have the stab set up on my building board so I can add the leading edge and top sheeting. Images to come.

I don't suppose you could be persuaded to move to Colorado Springs? While you were looking for a house, we have a nice guest room that just happens to be next to the workshop.

Cheers,
Richard

rg1911

My Feedback: (1)

Apologies for the stutter on the OK button.

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

Duane, I'm just sitting here planning things and I was wondering if you could post some photos of the inside of the fuselage with the radio installation? Also, another out of the box idea occured to me. The DuBro 24 oz. fuel tank fits behind the firewall just fine. The problem is that in order to mount itin the conventional manner I would have to hog out a substantional amount of former F2 or large areas of F6, so I figured that since the fuel doesn't know what shape or position it is in , in relation to the engine or fuselage, I could mountthe tankon it's side as long as the vent/pressureline inside the tankis in a vertical position pointing in the directionof what would then be the top side of the tank. I'm not sure how clear this explanation is, but if you get my drift, let me know what you think.

patternflyer76

I do not know why you would need a 24oz tank to begin with. I used a 16oz tank for my .90... I know you went with an OS 120AX 2s, but glow engines consume an average of 2oz per minute at wide open. With my 16oz I could fly 8 minutes wide open before my tank is empty. Before you go cutting a lot out you may want to consider going down in size of fuel tank IMHO.

Just a suggestion.....


Kevin Clark

patternflyer76

I used this tank from Tower. It fits like a champ without cutting anything.

Hayes Slimline Fuel Tank 16 oz

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXK836&P=K

Kevin Clark

billberry189

My Feedback: (1)

I originally planned on using the 16 oz. tank, but since I have both size tanks and there is so much room up front, I think I am going to set it up for both tanks. As I stated earlier the 24 oz. tank will have to berotated 90 degrees in orderto make it removable and eliminate any carving upof the fuselage structure. If for any reason the 24 oz tank does not function satisfactorilly I can opt for the 16 oz. tank. No harm, no foul.