chino_2005

Hi, I´m going to build a Tiporare .40 from Doxilia´s set of plans.
Engine will be an old O.S. .40FS.
The goal is to build it with retracts, as light as possible and with material that I´ve in my workshop.<o></o>

The idea is to use the Tipo as a “rocket pattern” trainer and get some flying skills before the flight of my Curare .60: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672934 <o></o>

<o></o>You can get the Tiporare plans from this link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7825947<o></o>

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chino_2005

Some photos of the plans:

chino_2005

I´ve a pair of Chinese retracts. With some sanding and adjustments I made them to move smooth.<o></o>

And I made a modification in order to have nose wheel steering.<o></o>

chino_2005

Making the templates:

alcarafa

In order to save weight and problems regarding space for retracts have you considered the use of servo less retracts ?

e.g. hobbyking offer some servo less retracts at a very good price, I would consider this if I were you.

chino_2005

Hi alcarafa, I didn´t consider to use servo less retracts. One of the goals in this model was to build it with materials that I´ve already in my workshop.
I´d a pair or mechanical retracts over there and adapt them to this model.<o></o>

I´ll try to save weight in other areas.<o></o>

Regards,<o></o>

Chino<o></o>

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chino_2005

More work...

chino_2005

Cutting the wing and stabilizer foam cores:

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Nice work!

chino_2005

Thank you!

JRgraham

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, real nice work, chino. Ilove the Tipo Ihad a couple or so back in early 90's Iflew pattern with. The 60 sizes.. but same thing really.

Going to be an interesting build, mine were fiberglass shell's Ibuilt up, Ican imagine the challenge ahead forming the nose!
Good luck man, keep up the great work !

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Yup! Building the nose is a good challenge. It's hard to get it to look just like the glass version. The tuck lines also require some work and are what makes the Tipo rather distinct from the Curare. Dick Hanson used to pump these out at a rate of two to three a week back in the day!

Diego, my apologies for not replying to your PM. I have been traveling abroad and just returned. Was there something specific that you were inquiring about?

David.

P.S. Note Avatar... glass Tipo 60 in the final stages of completion. [8D]

chino_2005

Hi Shimano,
<o></o>
You are right, the nose section will be a challenge. Let´s see how it looks at the end of construction.<o></o>

Doxilia! Don´t worry, my PM was about the dihedral of the stabilizer. I read something about it but didn´t find the thread again. It said that the angle is less without the tuned pipe, or something like that.<o></o>

I also asked you about the flight of the .10 version you built, due to the small size and the effects of the Reynolds Number.<o></o>

Thank you!<o></o>

790

Some random thoughts i had looking at pics. I recommend wearing gloves working with lead sheet as lead can be absorbed through skin. The nose steering tiller will need to be a smooth shaft instead of threaded.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Unless the eyelet is right on the axis of rotation in which case the tiller and eyelet rotate about that axis and the pushrod doesn't move from it's fixed position. Connecting the pushrod to a location other than the axis of rotation has always been problematic for me...

David.

chino_2005

Thank you 790! I´ll consider your advices.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Diego,

have you read Hanson's original MB article? He talks about the stab anhedral there based on the vertical frontal planform of the model (i.e., pipe or no pipe). If memory serves, for the 60, 3.5" anhedral with pipe and 2" without. Scale as appropriate for the 40.

The Pico was built using the 2" criterion being electric and having no exposed "exhaust" of any kind. Of course, the dimension is scaled for the 40" span. Regardless of whether you use muffler or pipe, I would build it per original 60 plan with the larger dihedral and anhedral, again, using the appropriate scaling.

I hope this helps,

David.

chino_2005

Thank you David, I´ll keep the original Tiporare design angle.

chino_2005

Landing gear bays.

chino_2005

More work on the landing gear....

chino_2005

chino_2005

chino_2005

Lightening the stabilizer.<o></o>

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Chino,

excellent work! In order to keep the model light, make sure you watch the wing and stab sheeting. If you can, use very light 1.5 mm balsa, you should end up at 5 lbs or lighter if you're lucky. I would also cut the fuse sides from 1/8" light balsa and use 1/32" ply doublers or their metric equivalents. Once my fuse top front sheets were carved and sanded to shape, I removed the assembly and hollowed it out. This might be necessary on your model in order to fit the fuel tank comfortably up front next to the FW. In other words, use rubber cement on those three sheets when building so that you can remove it and hollow it out.

Oh, I would also use laminating epoxy rather than contact cement when sheeting. I believe it is lighter.

Just a couple of suggestions,

David.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Diego,

I thought you might also find these hand written notes from Dick Hanson of some interest. They are for the Tipo 750 (67.5" span) and were posted on Rusty's thread on RCG.

David.