Hi Andy,

well the trim covering is a bit of a cocktail - basically what I had or what I could find locally.

The bottom is EK insignia blue. The top is MK missile red and cub yellow with the orange being UC (actually Oracover since it's imported from Germany). The orange is actually re-branded once more and called "Skycoat" - my LHS's distribution brand since they're more of a distributor here (more or less). I've never used UC until now and liked and disliked some things about it. It seems thin and light, has a nice backing (easy to remove and doesn't leave static), lies flat and can be repositioned. The glue is rather temperature sensitive and doesn't like too much heat or else it doesn't hold, it has an interesting "bead" pattern which diffuses light so the reflections off it are more dull. It has less sheen than MK - for flying, I can see how this might be good, for static not so much.

The scheme is actually, I believe, supposed to be MK missile red, orange and yellow (not cub) but I decided to use cub as I had some and it has a little more punch colour wise. It looks like mustard in the pictures - it's not. In any case, it's a slight variation and I'm happy to finally have done the trim scheme I've thought of, on and off, for years. As far as I know, and unlike many standard classic trims schemes (e.g., Aurora, Blue Angel, Curare, etc.), there hasn't ever been another Tipo finished in this particular scheme other than the prototype - at least to my knowledge. I find it interesting that no one (perhaps a few stray cats including myself) ever considered doing the "box scheme" when hundreds (if not thousands) of GP kits must have been sold.

I was hoping to finish the covering tomorrow but I've been commissioned for an extended family matter. I'm anxious to get her airborne. The lipo's should be here the week of the 20th I hope.

It'd be cool to get the CPF together for a summer fun fly - some brews and dogs and get to meet each other. Of course the logistics are another matter. The guys down south have it pretty good with all the CP activity going on. I'll try to get some video of her later this summer.

Finally, I went to pick up the September issue of FM yesterday but it wasn't in yet - I look forward to reading the GS article! Once it's out, I'd love to see some of the build pics you must have taken. I'll have to find another project to put that other extra motor in!

David.

Cub Yellow, eh? I was going to say "kinder caca" (what we call it at our house) but that's probably just an artifact of jpeg. It probably looks fine in real life.

Andy

Ew... that doesn't sound very appetizing. I have fluorescent's in the shop so the white balance is always a little off. But... I doctored the pictures a little bit (30 sec operation) and they now seem a little truer to real life. In any case, we all know what cub yellow looks like.

I have plans to redo that same scheme on a full size Tipo in paint so it's a bit of trim scheme practice as well. I'll probably use full yellow on the 60 which is what was used on the original.

David.

......... that's a good one Andy.

Sorry David it sure must look better live .

Keep up the job, want to read your "maiden missile" report soon.

Well, this is kind of a kinder plane so it would just be fitting

I'll eventually get some shots basking in the glory of sun light and greenery. Hopefully we'll rid ourselves of the diaper effect!

Below is the source for "kinder caca" - doesn't look quite so aromatic does it?

David.

Nasty JPG compression here on RCU though...

Sunlight pic's could help the colors be distinctive and clear out this diaper's novel
Any way head back to your bench and keep working, less typing and more covering done ...please

Nice T-6 tough !

Right,

actually I think I'll head back to the sack now that the young lads next door have piped down!

Back to finishing Monday evening - funeral to attend to tomorrow.

David.

David

I'm Watching! Awesome work!


Chuck

Ah,

good to hear from a few more little Tipo fans! I hope you're enjoying the thread Chuck. Thanks for your support and enthusiasm.

A little further progress this evening. I finished the white base layer on the fuse. A little tidy up work remains to be done on the fin LE strip but otherwise the fuse is ready for the colour trim.

I also drilled out and sanded the cooling hole in the canopy for the motor, battery and ESC. The hole exits the bottom of the canopy into the motor and battery bay via two ducts. I'm hoping that the ducted channel will blow air directly on to the lipo and on to the rear of the motor. A second hole is of course still present in the chin of the fuse to allow air into the bottom of the motor bay and back across the FW across the ESC.

I should be able to get the fuse trim done tomorrow and complete the covering of the model with the canopy. This last will be a fun exercise in MK stretching!

I can't decide what type of spinner to use - the electric I have has a bent backplate and spins untrue. I might splurge for an electric aluminum spinner and keep the bearings running smoothly.

In other news, the lipos have shipped! We'll have to see how long they take to arrive from across the pond!

David.

David I doubt such a small hole in front of canopy will be enough to cool down Batt & ESC they get really hot inside such a small area, i see a big hole underneath the fuse ( is that correct ? ) and assume pourpose is to let hot air come out.

IMHO there will not be enough fresh air coming into batt's and esc trough those ducts you mention, unless there are some more vent holes I dont see.

Talking about spinner , yellow one looks much better.

Anyway, congrats PICO is looking great and one step closer to maiden flight report.

How about one or more of these?

http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/nacaduct/naca-duct.htm

Maybe one in front and one on each side?

Terry in LP

David,

I have been following this thread since you started it and I think you are doing an AWESOME job on this plane!!! I just might have to build one for myself!! Thanks for shearing all your photos and step-by-step progress. Please, keep up the GREAT work!! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

David,

I would hold off making any hole size changes right away. You'll have 100 MPH air coming into that chamber, where it will slow down and pull out some heat before being sucked out the back. You may be surprised at how little it actually takes.

On my one pylon racer I have a hole 3/16" dia inlet and 1/2" dia outlet at the tail and it does a great job.

As for spinners, try the DuBro #260 series. The bolt-on construction is much better than those CG crunch on types.

Andy

Guys, thanks for all the suggestions. Yea, I thought that a couple of NACA ducts on the sides might be the next step if required. However, as Andy points out, I also have the feeling that the two existing holes might be sufficient given the model will be sucking in air at considerable speed. It also expands into a large chamber which should help to setup a pressure gradient. It could be that the battery and ESC will actually be receiving an expanding jet of air right on to them. The main concern, if any, is actually the motor - I'm quite certain that the battery and ESC will remain cool as they are both running at low currents for their rating. Actually I was wondering not so much whether this would be adequate cooling but rather whether they would produce significant noise in flight!

David.

Tom,

thanks for your comments. I do rely on support from all you guys to keep me cutting, ironing and trimming! I'm starting to think about decals and pushrods - always a light at the end of the tunnel!

The little classics are cool aren't they? I expect to do a similar one, a little larger, with a 25 or 32 on a pipe and MK retracts. It will however be an interesting variation on the theme. I will call it the Mirage. The name gives a hint as to what I intend to do with it...

If you decide to do a little Tipo, I have cores on the shelf that might expedite the process. Just drop me a line.

David.

Agree with you CG spinners may pop off very easy and can be dangerous, happend to me once and never bought CG ever since.

As my son might say, having recently seen Madagascar 2, things are starting to look cracka lackin'!

As expected, the fuse trim job is trickier than it appears. Although not as elegant, I decided to apply the fuse trim in 2 sections, first the vertical and then the fuse top. I spent some time to measure things up, make some templates and cut the covering. I got the fin trimmed out but decided to leave the fuse sections for tomorrow with a fresher mind.

I also concentrated on the science of compound curves and managed to get the canopy front hatch covered with a minimum of creases. These essentially occur, in an acceptable way to me considering this is plastic film, at the canopy/nose division where the tuck lines take a turn around the nose. I was actually quite pleased with the results of the hour spent on the canopy alone... heat, stretch, bond, heat, stretch, bond... (and the little thing is also about 10g in weight which didn't help!)

Given the front section will be painted, covering it was questionable but I think it'll make the finishing more uniform and make the paint job go faster. Hopefully the paint will also defocus the eye from the seam between the canopy hatch and the fuse.

David.

David, thats really looking nice!, can't wait to see the finished plane. Pete

Hey Pete,

nice of you to drop by! Thanks. She is coming along nicely despite the builder...

Well, the covering job is done! Whew! It really doesn't take any less time to cover a 40" model than it does a 65" span one. In fact, perhaps longer as one has to deal with smaller components. I didn't take any pictures tonight as she's all wrapped up and in the canopy paint stage. I managed to get the surface prepped and the primer down. I'll see tomorrow whether a little sanding will take care of the surface for colour or whether I need to lay down another layer of primer - hopefully not. If so, I should be able to get the 2-3 layers of colour down tomorrow - weather permitting.

I guess it's time to work on some linkages! (really just an elevator pushrod and some aileron pushrods). Where are my servos!?

BTW, does anyone have any suggestions for printable decal material? I know Testors has some but I haven't tried it. I've used a transparent vinyl (unfortunately not mylar) of sorts from the stationary store but I didn't like the look of it once applied - it didn't blend in well leaving the covering material in view. Ultra thin is what I'm looking for I guess.

David.

Looking fantastic David. How long 'til the first flight?

The Testors is the only decal paper I've used. It works great in inkjet printers, but it's not fuel or dope proof. I guess there's probably some clear spray that will protect it. I need to do some testing. I have a bunch of images I've worked on in Photoshop that I'd like to use for decals.

David

Thanks David - I think the paint will give it a nice final touch. I'm hoping not to need any striping tape but my masking tape is not the best, we'll see.

Lipo's decide on maiden but I'd think sometime this month. I've never flown in a school yard and I'm a little leery of those goal posts!

So the Testors looks decent I guess. Are those decals applied to white covering or are they just laid on top? Nice custom decals by the way.

Here's a sounding for those who'd like to provide some input. Any type preferences? All suggestions welcome!

[ul][*] Swis721BT-I (This looks pretty close to the original prototype box scheme)[*] Constantia-I[*] Garamond-I[*] High Tower-I[*] Perpetua-I[*] Magneto (went a little wild here!)
[/ul]

David.

Oops! Gotta scale those down... just a minute. Done.

First four look ok , avoid last two ones they'r awful.

Pico is looking great David, wish mine where alive [&o] !!!!
New one coming soon in your local.... forum

Visit your local sign shop. They have more fonts than you can shake a stick at, and cut vinyl works VERY well.

Andy

I ordered some paint masks from Bill Fulmer:

http://www.customcutgrafix.com/

I went to my local sign shop first, but they didn't have any "low tack" material. I was painting dope over dope and regular adhesive vinyl masks would have pulled up the dope.

If you're not painting the letters - using vinyl letters instead - any sign shop will do.

David

Gents,

thanks for the ideas. I hadn't thought of painting over stencils but it would be a nice solution. I was considering black lettering out of a laser printer but after seeing a sample of canopy paint, it would be nice to use that colour!

The tricky part would be to produce the stencil. I wonder if I can get away with using an X-acto to cut it out from frisket. Will the paint bleed if just held down by hand pressure...? Mmm... probably.

David.