Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
12-08-2009 | 12:12 AM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rafa,
most of the building here is being done by Mr. Dave Guerin - builder to the stars.
Not that Rusty's talents are not up to snuff!
Wonderful photography too. It looks like years of practice taking pictures for MAN or some such.
David.
most of the building here is being done by Mr. Dave Guerin - builder to the stars.
Not that Rusty's talents are not up to snuff!
Wonderful photography too. It looks like years of practice taking pictures for MAN or some such.
David.
12-13-2009 | 07:28 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...control systems in ARFs ailerons, elevator and rudder!
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is the control system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the servos. What about the parts that connect the servos to the control surface? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your control system as "tight" and slop free for hundreds of flights? If not read on!
Control systems in ARFs- Many of todays ARFs offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to flying field. Current offerings are containing more and more complete hardware packages. The following is how I UPGRADE ARFs. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Wing re-trofit- The aileron servos in many ARFs are designed to be laid on there side, mounted to a plate and secrewed to a plate. This method works fine, I can't use my favorite aileron servos and linkage so I do this:
Photo 1- Shows the Futaba 9154 low profile digital aileron servo, Central Hobbies dual axis rod end, Central Hobbies control horn set (new) and the SWB titanium pushrods with alternating threads for easy adjustment.
Photo 2-4 The plywood plate is removed, hardwood stock removed from corners of box and servo hole cutout for new servo. Note that the plate was glued to the wing with thick CA and the Monokote was removed from the bottom and edges for a better bond.
Photo 5,6 The control horns are carefully measured for center (the same for both ailerons) and drill press is used with the wing top face down. The drill press table has a 12" x 24" x 1" board clamped for greater accuracy.
Photo 7,8 Control horn, ball bearing end, pushrod, dual axis rod end and servo installed and adjusted. Very smooth, very precise and reliable for hundreds and hundreds of flights. Note that I shortend the aluminum portion of the control horn to increase the "throw".
Final photo is a preview of wing #2 with the aileron/flap variable deflection and direction conditions.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
SPA #213
The Zlin
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is the control system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the servos. What about the parts that connect the servos to the control surface? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your control system as "tight" and slop free for hundreds of flights? If not read on!
Control systems in ARFs- Many of todays ARFs offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to flying field. Current offerings are containing more and more complete hardware packages. The following is how I UPGRADE ARFs. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Wing re-trofit- The aileron servos in many ARFs are designed to be laid on there side, mounted to a plate and secrewed to a plate. This method works fine, I can't use my favorite aileron servos and linkage so I do this:
Photo 1- Shows the Futaba 9154 low profile digital aileron servo, Central Hobbies dual axis rod end, Central Hobbies control horn set (new) and the SWB titanium pushrods with alternating threads for easy adjustment.
Photo 2-4 The plywood plate is removed, hardwood stock removed from corners of box and servo hole cutout for new servo. Note that the plate was glued to the wing with thick CA and the Monokote was removed from the bottom and edges for a better bond.
Photo 5,6 The control horns are carefully measured for center (the same for both ailerons) and drill press is used with the wing top face down. The drill press table has a 12" x 24" x 1" board clamped for greater accuracy.
Photo 7,8 Control horn, ball bearing end, pushrod, dual axis rod end and servo installed and adjusted. Very smooth, very precise and reliable for hundreds and hundreds of flights. Note that I shortend the aluminum portion of the control horn to increase the "throw".
Final photo is a preview of wing #2 with the aileron/flap variable deflection and direction conditions.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
SPA #213
The Zlin
12-13-2009 | 08:02 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...control systems in ARFs ailerons, elevator and rudder!
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is the control system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the servos. What about the parts that connect the servos to the control surface? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your control system as "tight" and slop free for hundreds of flights? If not read on!
Control systems in ARFs- Many of todays ARFs offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to flying field. Current offerings are containing more and more complete hardware packages. The following is how I UPGRADE ARFs. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Split Elevator set-up- Classic pattern airplanes typically had one elevator pushrod connected to one elevator half and a "u" shaped wire connecting the (2) elevator halves.
Most current ARFs use (2) wire pushrods guided by independent plastic tubes pre-installed in the fuselage. The wire works fine, is reasonably simple to install and align. My method saves at least (2) ounces (!!!), allows the use of titanium ends which save more precious grams and allows for VERY simple and accurate installation.
Dual Elevator retrofit- I use .060 or .070 carbon fiber rod from Midwest (#5800 for the .060 or 1.5mm carbon rod, weighs .081 grams per inch) and Central Hobbies pushrod ends, 3mm dual axis rod end for servo, Kraft-Hayes 4-40 nylon clevis with steel pin for rudder and the Central Hobbies new control horn.
Photo 3,4- The radio compartment shows the Futaba 9151 digital servo for the rudder (left side of model) and Futaba 3151 digital servo for the elevator. The rudder uses the Central Hobbies 3mm dual axis rod end threaded to a 3mm titanium fitting with a .070 hole for the carbon rod. The fitting is glued with JB Weld. The elevator .060 carbon rods are first glued (JB Weld) into a larger carbon tube (slotted to accept the angle of rods) with titanium fitting/3mm threaded end for 3mm dual axis rod end. Once this is dry (over night) I remove the assembly and wrap with 1/2a control line thread and coat the hole thing with a film of JB Weld to absolutely make the hole thing solid.
Photo 1,2- Alignment is absolutely critical!!! I attach sharpened carbon rods to the elevator halves (make sure the elevators are hinged and glued in the CENTER) with painters tape, aligning them as shown in the photos. Note I do not install the rudder until this is completed.
Photo 5,6- The titanium rod ends have been prepared by measuring and test fitting. The control horns were installed exactly like the ailerons (see previous post) BEFORE the elevators were glued in place. JB Weld is applied to the carbon rod, inside the titanium rod end with a pin and pushed in and out. Use a couple pieces of wood pinned to the rudder post to keep the stuff aligned and let cure overnight.
Photo 7+ The rudder end is handled the same except the carbon rod is exposed a little more...I add a telescoping tube for strength and speed alignment of the 4-40 titanium fitting/steel pin clevis.
The other photos show the completed model with wing #1 (stock version), YS 63 with Hatori header/muffler enclosed in cowl with exhause exiting out of the fuselage!
Wing #2 has independent aileron/flap (scale dimensions-larger than kit) modified landing gear with aluminum wheel, no wing tube and lots of lightening holes. The full scale airplane had interesting deflection angles of the aileron/flap...I am going to have 2-5 conditions for outside ailerons only and variable flap angle, aileron/flap coupled, outside ailerons with coupled elevator flaps and "crow" which will raise the ailerons and lower the flaps for super slow down-lines? I am just about done with this and will post as completed and discuss results of flight testing. The testing is a to sample the Hanno/Matt airbrake set-ups.
Finally, the "faux" landing gear detail was made with silver craft pen (hub) from Michael's for the wheels, holes were drilled in the hub, wheel collars covered with black heat shrink, white heat shrink for bottom of wire, a waterproof pushrod exit for a R/C boat for the shock absorber, bits of gasoline fuel tubing/carbon tube/dowel are the hard-points, white cover is paper tube for servo wires covered in white/silver trim monoKote...it made the ugly wires look better!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
SPA #213
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is the control system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the servos. What about the parts that connect the servos to the control surface? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your control system as "tight" and slop free for hundreds of flights? If not read on!
Control systems in ARFs- Many of todays ARFs offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to flying field. Current offerings are containing more and more complete hardware packages. The following is how I UPGRADE ARFs. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Split Elevator set-up- Classic pattern airplanes typically had one elevator pushrod connected to one elevator half and a "u" shaped wire connecting the (2) elevator halves.
Most current ARFs use (2) wire pushrods guided by independent plastic tubes pre-installed in the fuselage. The wire works fine, is reasonably simple to install and align. My method saves at least (2) ounces (!!!), allows the use of titanium ends which save more precious grams and allows for VERY simple and accurate installation.
Dual Elevator retrofit- I use .060 or .070 carbon fiber rod from Midwest (#5800 for the .060 or 1.5mm carbon rod, weighs .081 grams per inch) and Central Hobbies pushrod ends, 3mm dual axis rod end for servo, Kraft-Hayes 4-40 nylon clevis with steel pin for rudder and the Central Hobbies new control horn.
Photo 3,4- The radio compartment shows the Futaba 9151 digital servo for the rudder (left side of model) and Futaba 3151 digital servo for the elevator. The rudder uses the Central Hobbies 3mm dual axis rod end threaded to a 3mm titanium fitting with a .070 hole for the carbon rod. The fitting is glued with JB Weld. The elevator .060 carbon rods are first glued (JB Weld) into a larger carbon tube (slotted to accept the angle of rods) with titanium fitting/3mm threaded end for 3mm dual axis rod end. Once this is dry (over night) I remove the assembly and wrap with 1/2a control line thread and coat the hole thing with a film of JB Weld to absolutely make the hole thing solid.
Photo 1,2- Alignment is absolutely critical!!! I attach sharpened carbon rods to the elevator halves (make sure the elevators are hinged and glued in the CENTER) with painters tape, aligning them as shown in the photos. Note I do not install the rudder until this is completed.
Photo 5,6- The titanium rod ends have been prepared by measuring and test fitting. The control horns were installed exactly like the ailerons (see previous post) BEFORE the elevators were glued in place. JB Weld is applied to the carbon rod, inside the titanium rod end with a pin and pushed in and out. Use a couple pieces of wood pinned to the rudder post to keep the stuff aligned and let cure overnight.
Photo 7+ The rudder end is handled the same except the carbon rod is exposed a little more...I add a telescoping tube for strength and speed alignment of the 4-40 titanium fitting/steel pin clevis.
The other photos show the completed model with wing #1 (stock version), YS 63 with Hatori header/muffler enclosed in cowl with exhause exiting out of the fuselage!
Wing #2 has independent aileron/flap (scale dimensions-larger than kit) modified landing gear with aluminum wheel, no wing tube and lots of lightening holes. The full scale airplane had interesting deflection angles of the aileron/flap...I am going to have 2-5 conditions for outside ailerons only and variable flap angle, aileron/flap coupled, outside ailerons with coupled elevator flaps and "crow" which will raise the ailerons and lower the flaps for super slow down-lines? I am just about done with this and will post as completed and discuss results of flight testing. The testing is a to sample the Hanno/Matt airbrake set-ups.
Finally, the "faux" landing gear detail was made with silver craft pen (hub) from Michael's for the wheels, holes were drilled in the hub, wheel collars covered with black heat shrink, white heat shrink for bottom of wire, a waterproof pushrod exit for a R/C boat for the shock absorber, bits of gasoline fuel tubing/carbon tube/dowel are the hard-points, white cover is paper tube for servo wires covered in white/silver trim monoKote...it made the ugly wires look better!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
SPA #213
12-14-2009 | 10:19 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...hidden exhaust system!!
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is sound control or muffler system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the engine. What about the parts that direct the exhaust? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your engine/motor system quiet or hidden? If not read on!
Exhaust systems for engines- Many of todays engines offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to model. The top brands have a wide selction of after market components. The following is how I UPGRADE the YS exhaust system. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Integrating a modern 4-cycle into an ARF or (?)- The neat thing about 4-strokes other than the torque, the large props, the low idle speed, reliability...they typically require a small muffler system. YS produces a very powerful motor called the YS-63. It is an excellent direct replacement for a .45 - .50 2 cycle. Hatori of Japan produces a gorgeous header and muffler that makes the whole combination virtually "silent" in the air. When I am at my local flying field with at least one other glow model...I cannot hear the set-up discussed here.
The Zlin challenge- The sleek nose of the Zlin 526 just doesn't need a stubby 4-stroke muffler sticking out...how about a completely enclosed header/can muffler?
Solution- The Zlin has enough room for the entire muffler "can" to be inside the cowl but the stinger or exhaust would need to go through the wing. Strength is not an issue due to the aluminum wing tube. I could put a hole in the leading edge of the wing...but then there is the silly knob hanging down.
I decided to rotate the muffler 90 degrees and by using a Hobbico silicone exhaust deflector the exhaust exits on the scale side of the model, is almost hidden, adds no meaningful degradation of performance and here is how I did it.
Photo series- Photos basically speak for themselves. Central Hobbies sells the header and can muffler...about $110+ for the combo and includes the shock absorbing mount. The mounts sit on 1/8: plywood plates CA'd to the engine frame work. All of the joints were re-CA'd (one should do this for EVERY ARF you want to keep) and Zap epoxy finishing resin coated every where.
The red stuff is high temperature silicone added in the gap between fuselage former and can. The exhaust deflector was attached with the same silicone and a couple of tie-wraps. A little 1/16" scrap balsa dam was added as an emergency barrier if the exhaust deflector fails, falls off or ? The hole in the fuselage lined up perfectly with a lightening hole in the plywood doubler.
The last photo shows the large exit on the bottom of the cowl. Remember you need a 2 to 3 times larger exit hole than entry hole for proper air flow.
This set-up can work with any number of models with a little imagination!
The landing gear has received a number of (PM)...Ha!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
SPA #213
An often over-looked, area of a precision aerobatic model is sound control or muffler system. Most spend enormous amounts of time and money on selecting the engine. What about the parts that direct the exhaust? How many flights can you fly without maintenance? Is your engine/motor system quiet or hidden? If not read on!
Exhaust systems for engines- Many of todays engines offer some combination of unique subject, value or time from box to model. The top brands have a wide selction of after market components. The following is how I UPGRADE the YS exhaust system. Please understand that these ideas are mine, have worked for me and can be consistently executed with my skills, tools and time availability...they may NOT work for you!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Integrating a modern 4-cycle into an ARF or (?)- The neat thing about 4-strokes other than the torque, the large props, the low idle speed, reliability...they typically require a small muffler system. YS produces a very powerful motor called the YS-63. It is an excellent direct replacement for a .45 - .50 2 cycle. Hatori of Japan produces a gorgeous header and muffler that makes the whole combination virtually "silent" in the air. When I am at my local flying field with at least one other glow model...I cannot hear the set-up discussed here.
The Zlin challenge- The sleek nose of the Zlin 526 just doesn't need a stubby 4-stroke muffler sticking out...how about a completely enclosed header/can muffler?
Solution- The Zlin has enough room for the entire muffler "can" to be inside the cowl but the stinger or exhaust would need to go through the wing. Strength is not an issue due to the aluminum wing tube. I could put a hole in the leading edge of the wing...but then there is the silly knob hanging down.
I decided to rotate the muffler 90 degrees and by using a Hobbico silicone exhaust deflector the exhaust exits on the scale side of the model, is almost hidden, adds no meaningful degradation of performance and here is how I did it.
Photo series- Photos basically speak for themselves. Central Hobbies sells the header and can muffler...about $110+ for the combo and includes the shock absorbing mount. The mounts sit on 1/8: plywood plates CA'd to the engine frame work. All of the joints were re-CA'd (one should do this for EVERY ARF you want to keep) and Zap epoxy finishing resin coated every where.
The red stuff is high temperature silicone added in the gap between fuselage former and can. The exhaust deflector was attached with the same silicone and a couple of tie-wraps. A little 1/16" scrap balsa dam was added as an emergency barrier if the exhaust deflector fails, falls off or ? The hole in the fuselage lined up perfectly with a lightening hole in the plywood doubler.
The last photo shows the large exit on the bottom of the cowl. Remember you need a 2 to 3 times larger exit hole than entry hole for proper air flow.
This set-up can work with any number of models with a little imagination!
The landing gear has received a number of (PM)...Ha!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
SPA #213
12-16-2009 | 11:57 AM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...Professional builder Dave Guerin builds Blue Angel!
Blue Angel by Wega/Sunshine of Germany build by Dave Guerin
Ready to paint!
Overview- The photos show the airplane just about ready to paint. The last construction detail is to add material to the wing tips to match the MAN 3-view drawing from the Yoshioka 1973 World Champion story. One of the realities/challenges of the "reproduction" kits is their accuracy. The Wega/Sunshine had the following "inaccuracies" :
- Type of ailerons...barn door in kit, strip ailerons on original.
- Wing tip blocks...incorrect angle.
- Fin trailing edge...rounded not square
The painting/covering process will begin today. The exact color scheme, based on available photos is pretty tricky. The photo below shows a metalic blue, red, creme wing/stab with yellow swoosh and white lightening bolt. Monokote will be used for the wing/stab/rudder with PPG base coat/clear products. Dave is amazingly speedy and will probably have the project completed the middle of next week.
Hanno/Yoshioka conicidence? Hanno Prettner was very deliberate with his color schemes and combinations, typically integrating the colors of the FAI world Championship host countries flag into his models. Yoshioka's 1973 model used metalic blue, red, white and creme with yellow and white swooshes. Hanno's 1983 world championship "Calypso" used metalic blue, red, creme with white highlights for the event hosted in the USA. I belive that the 10-year time span, the similar colors and placement may be more than a coincidence?
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Blue Angel by Wega/Sunshine of Germany build by Dave Guerin
Ready to paint!
Overview- The photos show the airplane just about ready to paint. The last construction detail is to add material to the wing tips to match the MAN 3-view drawing from the Yoshioka 1973 World Champion story. One of the realities/challenges of the "reproduction" kits is their accuracy. The Wega/Sunshine had the following "inaccuracies" :
- Type of ailerons...barn door in kit, strip ailerons on original.
- Wing tip blocks...incorrect angle.
- Fin trailing edge...rounded not square
The painting/covering process will begin today. The exact color scheme, based on available photos is pretty tricky. The photo below shows a metalic blue, red, creme wing/stab with yellow swoosh and white lightening bolt. Monokote will be used for the wing/stab/rudder with PPG base coat/clear products. Dave is amazingly speedy and will probably have the project completed the middle of next week.
Hanno/Yoshioka conicidence? Hanno Prettner was very deliberate with his color schemes and combinations, typically integrating the colors of the FAI world Championship host countries flag into his models. Yoshioka's 1973 model used metalic blue, red, white and creme with yellow and white swooshes. Hanno's 1983 world championship "Calypso" used metalic blue, red, creme with white highlights for the event hosted in the USA. I belive that the 10-year time span, the similar colors and placement may be more than a coincidence?
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-18-2009 | 03:10 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rusty,
In post 37, you posted a picture of a wing with a cutout in it, presumably for a pipe.
I have recently acquired a pattern plane of unknown name and origin for my first foray into something other than modern pattern planes. I will post pictures in another thread as I would like to know what airplane it is, however it is going to need some work before I try and fly it. I believe that my airplane will benefit from a similar cutout, as the pipe is a little tight in the belly pan. I am not sure of the construction of the wing (other than it being foam), but is some sort of stiffener required, as in a hardwood brace or carbon tubes, prior to cutting this out so as to not detrimentally affect the structural integrity of the wing? I want to make sure everything jives correctly, however I don't want to risk the airplane imitating a bird at the expense of a better fitting pipe.
Thank you for starting this thread, there are a lot of informative posts here.
In post 37, you posted a picture of a wing with a cutout in it, presumably for a pipe.
I have recently acquired a pattern plane of unknown name and origin for my first foray into something other than modern pattern planes. I will post pictures in another thread as I would like to know what airplane it is, however it is going to need some work before I try and fly it. I believe that my airplane will benefit from a similar cutout, as the pipe is a little tight in the belly pan. I am not sure of the construction of the wing (other than it being foam), but is some sort of stiffener required, as in a hardwood brace or carbon tubes, prior to cutting this out so as to not detrimentally affect the structural integrity of the wing? I want to make sure everything jives correctly, however I don't want to risk the airplane imitating a bird at the expense of a better fitting pipe.
Thank you for starting this thread, there are a lot of informative posts here.
12-18-2009 | 07:17 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Post 37...what model?
The photos are of the Ace High Glider, Modeltech Calypso (the pipe tunnel), Dirty Birdy 60 and SIg Komet.
The wing construction for the Calypso has a 1/4" wing joiner at about the CG extending 6-7" on each side. You really HAVE to add something if one is going to take away this much material...trust me!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
The photos are of the Ace High Glider, Modeltech Calypso (the pipe tunnel), Dirty Birdy 60 and SIg Komet.
The wing construction for the Calypso has a 1/4" wing joiner at about the CG extending 6-7" on each side. You really HAVE to add something if one is going to take away this much material...trust me!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-20-2009 | 11:23 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...seperate flaps and ailerons added to an ARF!!
Hanno Prettner chose to use flaps, spoilers, combination spoiler/flap, elevator/flap mixing and seperate aileron servos in his Curare models from 1975 - 1977...without our magical radio systems!
I am interested in testing these devices as well as "crow"-flaps down and aileron up for significant drag...maybe for slowing a down line? The Futaba 14MZ can handle many, many nifty combinations or conditions activated by switches or stick positions or both...with trim at each condition...limited only by your imagination. The full-scale Zlin 526 used ailerons and flaps with the same OR different deflection angles (see previous photo of a Zlin in a vertical line with a flap with a different deflection the the aileron). I am only guessing that the variable geometry would behave like differential? An added benefit of using only the outer ailerons, leaving the flaps fixed, is the ailerons will not block/disrupt the air flow over the stab/elevator...a detail Hanno used on his WC Calypso.
The recently released Great Planes Zlin is the perfect subject to "kit bash" to test these ideas. Thank you for your interest!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Repairing/attaching the ARF ailerons-
The pre-hinged/glued ailerons were cut away from the wing and the factory applied Monokote was removed. The goal is to have the new wing (wing #2) be lighter with the modifications and additional servo/linkage than the the stock wing #1. I will save weight in the following areas:
- The wing tube will be replaced with a 1/8 light ply brace reinforced with carbon fiber matt (see earlier thread for using modern materials to strengthen and save weight) and glue panels together with a 4" glass cloth and epoxy. The aluminum wing tube weighs 78 grams.
- The root rib will be lightened by removing all but a 3/16" edge and 3/8" around wing tube. This saved 7 grams per panel...1/2 ounce!
- Lightening holes will be placed in the outer portion of wing panel (outside of servos) using a 2" - 2 1/2" Forstner bit in a drill press. I estimate that each hole will save 7 - 9 grams for an additional 1/2 ounce.
- The color scheme will be simplified on the bottom (all blue like the full-scale), the colors will be overlapped by 1/8" with an estimated savings 16 - 20 grams per panel...another ounce!
- The landing gear will be shortened 1" - 1 1/2", an aluminum axle (Central Hobbies) will reduce the weight of the wire and replace (2) wheel collars and an 210mm aluminum hubbed wheel for weight savings and low drag. I initially intended to use retracts and the more I thought about it, I decided to shorten the gear to reduce drag and weight. A new wire leg will be bent out of 5/32" music wire. I estimate that the new parts may save between 30 and 40 grams!
The process/photos-
Photo 1, 2- The new spar, aileron template (about 15% more area by using the full-scale hinge line) and axle/wheel.
Photo 3, 4, 5- Baseline weights of wing, wing no covering, wing with mods and (2) servos...no lightening holes.
Photo 6, 7, 8- Ailerons reinstalled after removing trailing edge of wing and leading edge of aileron and replace with 3/8" soft balsa sheet attached with Titebond. A razor plane and sanding bar squared each edge after the pieces were cut with xacto knife and long straight edge.
After the glue dried, the area was sanded using a long sanding bar to match contour of wing.
A cardboard template was created using a 3-view found on the internet, confirmed all measurements using a digital micrometer and ruler to proportion the dimensions. The new surfaces were drawn on both sides of wing and (2) lines added allowing for the 1/4" soft balsa trailing edge and 3/8" soft balsa aileron leading edge. The flap/ailerons were cut-out using a straight edge and xacto adding 1/8" soft balsa caps to flap and ailerons with Titebond.
The stock servo plate was glued using thick CA after hardwood corners were removed (see previous threads regarding sing #1).
Flap/aileron control horn will be 6-32 stainless steel screws threaded into 5/8 dowels. The dowels are glued using 30-minute epoxy. This method provides infinite adjustablility to match the throws of each surface with via proper geometry rather than ATV. It is also very strong, simple and cheap! The holes have not been drilled or marked for the screw and has not been final sanded.
The new wing brace is sticking out of a wing half also showing the removed plywood on the root rib. A Dremel (old school) router bit/router attachment was used to make the cut-out.
I am pleased so far and expect to have it completed before Santa comes...now if the weather would cooperate!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Hanno Prettner chose to use flaps, spoilers, combination spoiler/flap, elevator/flap mixing and seperate aileron servos in his Curare models from 1975 - 1977...without our magical radio systems!
I am interested in testing these devices as well as "crow"-flaps down and aileron up for significant drag...maybe for slowing a down line? The Futaba 14MZ can handle many, many nifty combinations or conditions activated by switches or stick positions or both...with trim at each condition...limited only by your imagination. The full-scale Zlin 526 used ailerons and flaps with the same OR different deflection angles (see previous photo of a Zlin in a vertical line with a flap with a different deflection the the aileron). I am only guessing that the variable geometry would behave like differential? An added benefit of using only the outer ailerons, leaving the flaps fixed, is the ailerons will not block/disrupt the air flow over the stab/elevator...a detail Hanno used on his WC Calypso.
The recently released Great Planes Zlin is the perfect subject to "kit bash" to test these ideas. Thank you for your interest!
Subject: Great Planes Zlin 526
The Great Planes Zlin was designed by Great Planes R&D airplane designer Mark Hampe and builder/writer Steve Beros with George Rodriguez as the product manager. This same team developed the "Sequence", which I have flown extensively, written about on a RCU thread in the electric pattern section and just think is incredible!
Repairing/attaching the ARF ailerons-
The pre-hinged/glued ailerons were cut away from the wing and the factory applied Monokote was removed. The goal is to have the new wing (wing #2) be lighter with the modifications and additional servo/linkage than the the stock wing #1. I will save weight in the following areas:
- The wing tube will be replaced with a 1/8 light ply brace reinforced with carbon fiber matt (see earlier thread for using modern materials to strengthen and save weight) and glue panels together with a 4" glass cloth and epoxy. The aluminum wing tube weighs 78 grams.
- The root rib will be lightened by removing all but a 3/16" edge and 3/8" around wing tube. This saved 7 grams per panel...1/2 ounce!
- Lightening holes will be placed in the outer portion of wing panel (outside of servos) using a 2" - 2 1/2" Forstner bit in a drill press. I estimate that each hole will save 7 - 9 grams for an additional 1/2 ounce.
- The color scheme will be simplified on the bottom (all blue like the full-scale), the colors will be overlapped by 1/8" with an estimated savings 16 - 20 grams per panel...another ounce!
- The landing gear will be shortened 1" - 1 1/2", an aluminum axle (Central Hobbies) will reduce the weight of the wire and replace (2) wheel collars and an 210mm aluminum hubbed wheel for weight savings and low drag. I initially intended to use retracts and the more I thought about it, I decided to shorten the gear to reduce drag and weight. A new wire leg will be bent out of 5/32" music wire. I estimate that the new parts may save between 30 and 40 grams!
The process/photos-
Photo 1, 2- The new spar, aileron template (about 15% more area by using the full-scale hinge line) and axle/wheel.
Photo 3, 4, 5- Baseline weights of wing, wing no covering, wing with mods and (2) servos...no lightening holes.
Photo 6, 7, 8- Ailerons reinstalled after removing trailing edge of wing and leading edge of aileron and replace with 3/8" soft balsa sheet attached with Titebond. A razor plane and sanding bar squared each edge after the pieces were cut with xacto knife and long straight edge.
After the glue dried, the area was sanded using a long sanding bar to match contour of wing.
A cardboard template was created using a 3-view found on the internet, confirmed all measurements using a digital micrometer and ruler to proportion the dimensions. The new surfaces were drawn on both sides of wing and (2) lines added allowing for the 1/4" soft balsa trailing edge and 3/8" soft balsa aileron leading edge. The flap/ailerons were cut-out using a straight edge and xacto adding 1/8" soft balsa caps to flap and ailerons with Titebond.
The stock servo plate was glued using thick CA after hardwood corners were removed (see previous threads regarding sing #1).
Flap/aileron control horn will be 6-32 stainless steel screws threaded into 5/8 dowels. The dowels are glued using 30-minute epoxy. This method provides infinite adjustablility to match the throws of each surface with via proper geometry rather than ATV. It is also very strong, simple and cheap! The holes have not been drilled or marked for the screw and has not been final sanded.
The new wing brace is sticking out of a wing half also showing the removed plywood on the root rib. A Dremel (old school) router bit/router attachment was used to make the cut-out.
I am pleased so far and expect to have it completed before Santa comes...now if the weather would cooperate!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-21-2009 | 10:33 AM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...wheel pant installation 101!
Wheel pants are hard to align, can tear off in grass...until now! The following is from a post called "Zeque build: glow powered" I wrote in 2007 but is still relevant.
The wheel pants and landing gear. Wheel pants have given me fits for years until Dave Guerin's visit to my home a few years ago. The following is Dave's method which may include the use of other smart modeler's ideas.
The Zeque parts in the photo includes the landing gear mounting components which ARE unique to this model. To mount wheel pants you need to cut (4) 3/4" craft plywood squares, (2) Harry Higley 5/32" long axles. You will need a drill press, 5/32 drill bit, a UNI-BIT 120 grit sandpaper, a 10" bubble level, a bench clamp and less than an hour.
First find the center of the wheel pant opening. Second, determine where or you want to locate the center of the axle from the bottom of the pant. I generally put the center about 1/2" - 5/8" from the bottom.
The method has the axle stick through to the other side which helps the pants stay aligned and in better shape on grass fields or a really rough landing. To save time (my time) I have taken the liberty to include photos of a FOCUS II wheel pant intallation. I will be happy to post the Zeque stuff later.
Step 1: Using the 120 grit sandpaper, sand the inside of the wheel pants at the location of the 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 craft plywood plates.
Step 2: Trial fit the plates taking the time to contour the edges to fit in the pant. The more surface contact you have the less glue and stronger the bond will be. One plate goes on each side of the pant (inside!!!) Glue with green ZAP.
Step 3: You double checked the location of the axle?
Step 4: Put a sharp 5/32 drill bit in a drill press. ( I use a $99 special purchased years ago with success.)
Step 5: Get some scrap wood and stuff it into the wheel opening. You are going to drill a hole from one side of the pant THROUGH to the other side and you do not want to crush the pant in the process.
Step 6: Before drilling, make sure you are parallell to the drill press table.
Step 7: Drill hole slowly!!
Step 8: Determine a left and a right wheel pant.
Step 9: Using a UNI-BIT (any stepped drill bit will do, the stepped drills cut rather than tear holes) open up the inside of each pant to about 5/16" to fit over the Harry Higley nut.
Step 10: You used a drill press to drill a 5/32" hole in the landing gear for the axle!
Step 11: Clamp the landing gear leg on the bench as shown.
Step 12: Using a level, level the wheel pant with the bench.
Step 13: Use a drill bit to drill through the landing gear leg through the wheel pant for the anti-rotation screw. I use a 4-4- screw with a nylon washer into a 4-40 blind nut.
Step 14: Mark about 1/16 - 3/32" of the axle to stick out of the wheel pant and cut-off with a Dremel cut-off wheel.
Step 15: Enlarge the hole you jsut drilled in the wheel pant for a 4-40 blind nut and you are done!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance
Wheel pants are hard to align, can tear off in grass...until now! The following is from a post called "Zeque build: glow powered" I wrote in 2007 but is still relevant.
The wheel pants and landing gear. Wheel pants have given me fits for years until Dave Guerin's visit to my home a few years ago. The following is Dave's method which may include the use of other smart modeler's ideas.
The Zeque parts in the photo includes the landing gear mounting components which ARE unique to this model. To mount wheel pants you need to cut (4) 3/4" craft plywood squares, (2) Harry Higley 5/32" long axles. You will need a drill press, 5/32 drill bit, a UNI-BIT 120 grit sandpaper, a 10" bubble level, a bench clamp and less than an hour.
First find the center of the wheel pant opening. Second, determine where or you want to locate the center of the axle from the bottom of the pant. I generally put the center about 1/2" - 5/8" from the bottom.
The method has the axle stick through to the other side which helps the pants stay aligned and in better shape on grass fields or a really rough landing. To save time (my time) I have taken the liberty to include photos of a FOCUS II wheel pant intallation. I will be happy to post the Zeque stuff later.
Step 1: Using the 120 grit sandpaper, sand the inside of the wheel pants at the location of the 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 craft plywood plates.
Step 2: Trial fit the plates taking the time to contour the edges to fit in the pant. The more surface contact you have the less glue and stronger the bond will be. One plate goes on each side of the pant (inside!!!) Glue with green ZAP.
Step 3: You double checked the location of the axle?
Step 4: Put a sharp 5/32 drill bit in a drill press. ( I use a $99 special purchased years ago with success.)
Step 5: Get some scrap wood and stuff it into the wheel opening. You are going to drill a hole from one side of the pant THROUGH to the other side and you do not want to crush the pant in the process.
Step 6: Before drilling, make sure you are parallell to the drill press table.
Step 7: Drill hole slowly!!
Step 8: Determine a left and a right wheel pant.
Step 9: Using a UNI-BIT (any stepped drill bit will do, the stepped drills cut rather than tear holes) open up the inside of each pant to about 5/16" to fit over the Harry Higley nut.
Step 10: You used a drill press to drill a 5/32" hole in the landing gear for the axle!
Step 11: Clamp the landing gear leg on the bench as shown.
Step 12: Using a level, level the wheel pant with the bench.
Step 13: Use a drill bit to drill through the landing gear leg through the wheel pant for the anti-rotation screw. I use a 4-4- screw with a nylon washer into a 4-40 blind nut.
Step 14: Mark about 1/16 - 3/32" of the axle to stick out of the wheel pant and cut-off with a Dremel cut-off wheel.
Step 15: Enlarge the hole you jsut drilled in the wheel pant for a 4-40 blind nut and you are done!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance
12-21-2009 | 10:44 AM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...landing gear leg installation!
Landing Gear leg installation. Bolt on landing gear try to tear/twist apart during a rough landing...this method connects the (2) gear legs with a plate. I am going to use a 1/16" aircraft plywood plate covered with a heavey carbon fiber cloth using epoxy. The plate will be made, holes drilled and then cover the plate with the cloth. See first the first post of this build for the themes I am trying to execute.
You will notice a funky drill bit and some little plywood donuts, aluminum washers and some very heavy 6-32 socket screws. The aluminum washers are "extas" from the MK control horns used for the rudder and elevator horns which are drilled out with a #27 drill for the 6-32 socket screws. Micro fasteners no longer stocks the 6-32 x 1" aluminum...
The funky drill bit is a "plug" cutting drill bit. ($14.95 at any fully stocked hardware store, not Home Depot.) The donuts will hold the 6-32 blind nuts to provide additional support for the nuts.
I made the plate from 1/16 aircraft plywood, cut to size and the holes drilled for the bolts. Carbon fiber cloth is then bonded to one side using 30 minute ZAP epoxy then turned face down on a piece of wax paper. The other side is coated with ZAP laminating epoxy and another sheet of wax paper is placed on the plate. A weight is added to the top of the plate until cured.
The completed plate has a very smooth finish and is now very strong. The plate is trimmed, the edges sanded and ZAP laminating epoxy is brushed on the edges for installation.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Landing Gear leg installation. Bolt on landing gear try to tear/twist apart during a rough landing...this method connects the (2) gear legs with a plate. I am going to use a 1/16" aircraft plywood plate covered with a heavey carbon fiber cloth using epoxy. The plate will be made, holes drilled and then cover the plate with the cloth. See first the first post of this build for the themes I am trying to execute.
You will notice a funky drill bit and some little plywood donuts, aluminum washers and some very heavy 6-32 socket screws. The aluminum washers are "extas" from the MK control horns used for the rudder and elevator horns which are drilled out with a #27 drill for the 6-32 socket screws. Micro fasteners no longer stocks the 6-32 x 1" aluminum...
The funky drill bit is a "plug" cutting drill bit. ($14.95 at any fully stocked hardware store, not Home Depot.) The donuts will hold the 6-32 blind nuts to provide additional support for the nuts.
I made the plate from 1/16 aircraft plywood, cut to size and the holes drilled for the bolts. Carbon fiber cloth is then bonded to one side using 30 minute ZAP epoxy then turned face down on a piece of wax paper. The other side is coated with ZAP laminating epoxy and another sheet of wax paper is placed on the plate. A weight is added to the top of the plate until cured.
The completed plate has a very smooth finish and is now very strong. The plate is trimmed, the edges sanded and ZAP laminating epoxy is brushed on the edges for installation.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-22-2009 | 02:45 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...Tweety Bird "Speed" build thread!
Please visit the following to read a new build thread of a Bridi Tweety Bird!
http://www.classic-patternrc.com/index.php?topic=66.0
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Please visit the following to read a new build thread of a Bridi Tweety Bird!
http://www.classic-patternrc.com/index.php?topic=66.0
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-22-2009 | 04:11 PM
#88
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rusty,
It seems like you're on a roll this season! Nice job on the Zlin by the way. I was wondering when you were planning to get to that TB kit!
If you have the E-Flite retracts you plan to use, please do post some CU shots. They have made it so far into two 20 size plans I'm working on. I'll continue posting on your TB thread.
Looking forward to seeing Dave's finish on the BA... [sm=tongue_smile.gif]
Keep up the excellent work!
David.
It seems like you're on a roll this season! Nice job on the Zlin by the way. I was wondering when you were planning to get to that TB kit!
If you have the E-Flite retracts you plan to use, please do post some CU shots. They have made it so far into two 20 size plans I'm working on. I'll continue posting on your TB thread.
Looking forward to seeing Dave's finish on the BA... [sm=tongue_smile.gif]
Keep up the excellent work!
David.
12-24-2009 | 07:32 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Tutorial...seperate flaps and ailerons added to an ARF!!
Hanno Prettner chose to use flaps, spoilers, combination spoiler/flap, elevator/flap mixing and seperate aileron servos in his Curare models from 1975 - 1977...without our magical radio systems!
I am interested in testing these devices as well as "crow"-flaps down and aileron up for significant drag...maybe for slowing a down line? The Futaba 14MZ can handle many, many nifty combinations or conditions activated by switches or stick positions or both...with trim at each condition...limited only by your imagination. The full-scale Zlin 526 used ailerons and flaps with the same OR different deflection angles (see previous photo of a Zlin in a vertical line with a flap with a different deflection the the aileron). I am only guessing that the variable geometry would behave like differential? An added benefit of using only the outer ailerons, leaving the flaps fixed, is the ailerons will not block/disrupt the air flow over the stab/elevator...a detail Hanno used on his WC Calypso.
The recently released Great Planes Zlin is the perfect subject to "kit bash" to test these ideas. Thank you for your interest!
More details of the execution
Symmetry- Try to make each surface left-right should be identical. I like to complete one half of the wing then transfer the measurements to the other side. When I was kid, I was a terrible measurer, never really learned "how" to use reference marks, sharp pencils and patience...nothing may be more important than a little patience.
I chose a 25 degree angle for the flap and ailerons. I expect to use 20 - 22 max, leaving a couple of degrees of deflection available. The dowels have been drilled to accept the 6-32 stainless steel screw.
The wing panels have been glued together using 30 minute epoxy applied to the 3/16" remaining edge of the plywood root ribs and the 1/8" light plywood/carbon reinforced spar brace. The spar brace fits snugly in the epoxy wing tube and may be strong enough without the 3" glass cloth to be added.
The 3" nylon cloth (Sonic Tronics) is applied after drawing lines on the top and bottom of the wings. The joint has been carefully sanded, the halves have been test fit PRIOR to gluing them together. Adhesive is applied to each wing half, spar brace and the whole assembly after it is squished together. The excess glue was wiped away with a paper towel then 2" wide painters tape is added to the leading edge and trailing edge, checking for the halves pushed tightly together and the alignment of the halves.
After the wing was dry, a series of (3) 2" holes were bored 1" apart on the bottom trailing edge of the wing with a 2" forstner bit and drill press. The drill press "stop" was adjusted to not drill too deeply and the wing was held by hand. Other then the huge mess, the holes turned out very smooth with no additional sanding required. The weight savings was (20) grams for all of the holes...less than I had hoped...it took less than ten minutes to complete.
Zap finishing resin was mixed (about 10cc at a time) to apply to the 3" nylon cloth. The cloth is easier to cut if masking tape is applied to the cut line. The rear 1/4" of the tape is attached to the wing with thin CA and kicker and the epoxy is brushed on with a disposable nylon brush inside the lines. The cloth is then replaced over the wing and another coat of the unthinned epoxy is applied to the cloth from rear to front. A squeegee then removes all of the excess epoxy with a few passes and set aside for curing. The blue painters tape protects the wing hold down hole and will be removed with an xacto knife.
Final picture shows a flap placed on top of wing #1 to show the larger size and shape.
Just need to cover, hinge, add servos, control horns, push rods and progrtamm the radio...wow that could take (10) more hours...
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Hanno Prettner chose to use flaps, spoilers, combination spoiler/flap, elevator/flap mixing and seperate aileron servos in his Curare models from 1975 - 1977...without our magical radio systems!
I am interested in testing these devices as well as "crow"-flaps down and aileron up for significant drag...maybe for slowing a down line? The Futaba 14MZ can handle many, many nifty combinations or conditions activated by switches or stick positions or both...with trim at each condition...limited only by your imagination. The full-scale Zlin 526 used ailerons and flaps with the same OR different deflection angles (see previous photo of a Zlin in a vertical line with a flap with a different deflection the the aileron). I am only guessing that the variable geometry would behave like differential? An added benefit of using only the outer ailerons, leaving the flaps fixed, is the ailerons will not block/disrupt the air flow over the stab/elevator...a detail Hanno used on his WC Calypso.
The recently released Great Planes Zlin is the perfect subject to "kit bash" to test these ideas. Thank you for your interest!
More details of the execution
Symmetry- Try to make each surface left-right should be identical. I like to complete one half of the wing then transfer the measurements to the other side. When I was kid, I was a terrible measurer, never really learned "how" to use reference marks, sharp pencils and patience...nothing may be more important than a little patience.
I chose a 25 degree angle for the flap and ailerons. I expect to use 20 - 22 max, leaving a couple of degrees of deflection available. The dowels have been drilled to accept the 6-32 stainless steel screw.
The wing panels have been glued together using 30 minute epoxy applied to the 3/16" remaining edge of the plywood root ribs and the 1/8" light plywood/carbon reinforced spar brace. The spar brace fits snugly in the epoxy wing tube and may be strong enough without the 3" glass cloth to be added.
The 3" nylon cloth (Sonic Tronics) is applied after drawing lines on the top and bottom of the wings. The joint has been carefully sanded, the halves have been test fit PRIOR to gluing them together. Adhesive is applied to each wing half, spar brace and the whole assembly after it is squished together. The excess glue was wiped away with a paper towel then 2" wide painters tape is added to the leading edge and trailing edge, checking for the halves pushed tightly together and the alignment of the halves.
After the wing was dry, a series of (3) 2" holes were bored 1" apart on the bottom trailing edge of the wing with a 2" forstner bit and drill press. The drill press "stop" was adjusted to not drill too deeply and the wing was held by hand. Other then the huge mess, the holes turned out very smooth with no additional sanding required. The weight savings was (20) grams for all of the holes...less than I had hoped...it took less than ten minutes to complete.
Zap finishing resin was mixed (about 10cc at a time) to apply to the 3" nylon cloth. The cloth is easier to cut if masking tape is applied to the cut line. The rear 1/4" of the tape is attached to the wing with thin CA and kicker and the epoxy is brushed on with a disposable nylon brush inside the lines. The cloth is then replaced over the wing and another coat of the unthinned epoxy is applied to the cloth from rear to front. A squeegee then removes all of the excess epoxy with a few passes and set aside for curing. The blue painters tape protects the wing hold down hole and will be removed with an xacto knife.
Final picture shows a flap placed on top of wing #1 to show the larger size and shape.
Just need to cover, hinge, add servos, control horns, push rods and progrtamm the radio...wow that could take (10) more hours...
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-25-2009 | 05:40 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rusty,
I'm doing a scratch Deception build. I know you also have a Deception on your bench. As you know, the rudder is not full-length, but split just below the elevator. What will your rudder linkage, rudder control horn and elevator control componants look like?
Greg
I'm doing a scratch Deception build. I know you also have a Deception on your bench. As you know, the rudder is not full-length, but split just below the elevator. What will your rudder linkage, rudder control horn and elevator control componants look like?
Greg
12-25-2009 | 07:07 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Deception elevator and rudder pushrods...
I think I posted the elevator pushrod somewhere on this thread (Post # 55)...anyway it is a carbon rod with 2-56 wire threaded ends. The rudder will use cable above the stabilizer.
I will post some photos sometime this weekend...just about finished with the covering of the Zlin wing #2.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
I think I posted the elevator pushrod somewhere on this thread (Post # 55)...anyway it is a carbon rod with 2-56 wire threaded ends. The rudder will use cable above the stabilizer.
I will post some photos sometime this weekend...just about finished with the covering of the Zlin wing #2.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-25-2009 | 07:32 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rusty.... took a look at your post #55, will copy your elevator approach, but my Deception will be a tail dragger. Need a good way to encorporate tail wheel steering with rudder movement (when the rudder does not extend to the bottom of the fuselage). Your thoughts appreciated.
Greg
Greg
12-25-2009 | 09:23 PM
#93
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Merry Xmas to all!
Greg,
what about a standard wire passing through a piece of brass or CF tubing embedded into the tail post? It's a pretty standard setup which is independent of the location of the rudder. To support the wheel wire, you can simply use a collar on it where the tube begins at the bottom of the fixed rudder portion. An L shape in the top part of the wire takes care of the steering.
Basically an extension of the control horn concept shown on the plans. Of course, you would then control the rudder with P-P (always nice).
David.
Greg,
what about a standard wire passing through a piece of brass or CF tubing embedded into the tail post? It's a pretty standard setup which is independent of the location of the rudder. To support the wheel wire, you can simply use a collar on it where the tube begins at the bottom of the fixed rudder portion. An L shape in the top part of the wire takes care of the steering.
Basically an extension of the control horn concept shown on the plans. Of course, you would then control the rudder with P-P (always nice).
David.
12-26-2009 | 12:51 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...Deception nose gear, rudder, elevator, throttle linkages.
Deception nose gear- The Dave Brown nose gear is operated by seperate servo, in this case a Hobbico retract servo. The servo is mounted to R/C City (long gone...) plastic 90 degree servo mounts, on a 1/64 plywood "pad" with medium Zap CA (green label). The wire has been rough bent to shape with a "z" bend made with "z" bend pliers (Great Planes) and my favorite Hayes 2-56 nylon clevis with steel pins.
The steering is a plastic tube with a sullivan cable attached to a shaped wooden block with carbon fiber matt over the rod and block (black stuff). The tube was then heated with a MonoKote heat gun, with the tube installed, while holding a tighter "s" shape. When it cooled the shape mostly remained. The assembly was connected to the steering arm in the "retracted" position, the floaty deal was centered and the block was glued with ZAP medium CA...keeping it straight here is very, very, very important for trouble free operation.
The steering tube will be supported by a shaped balsa block during the final adjustment. Note that the plastic tube runs just above the throttle servo arm and the throttle wire/arm is inverted for clearance.
The elevator/rudder/throttle/RX tray- is made of 1/8" lite-ply with 1/8" x 1/4" spruce cross braces. The location of the servos and tray were determined on the full size plan. The rudder servo is mounted on the 3/8" stand-offs and will attach to the rudder ABOVE the stabilizer. Okay, your asking what about the elevator pushrod? The cables will "cross" above the pushrod and not interfere.
Various pushrods for Calypso, Komet (small 3/16" rods), Dirty Birdy MK elevator bellcrank and Deception.
Steering mechanism thoughts? Good luck!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Deception nose gear- The Dave Brown nose gear is operated by seperate servo, in this case a Hobbico retract servo. The servo is mounted to R/C City (long gone...) plastic 90 degree servo mounts, on a 1/64 plywood "pad" with medium Zap CA (green label). The wire has been rough bent to shape with a "z" bend made with "z" bend pliers (Great Planes) and my favorite Hayes 2-56 nylon clevis with steel pins.
The steering is a plastic tube with a sullivan cable attached to a shaped wooden block with carbon fiber matt over the rod and block (black stuff). The tube was then heated with a MonoKote heat gun, with the tube installed, while holding a tighter "s" shape. When it cooled the shape mostly remained. The assembly was connected to the steering arm in the "retracted" position, the floaty deal was centered and the block was glued with ZAP medium CA...keeping it straight here is very, very, very important for trouble free operation.
The steering tube will be supported by a shaped balsa block during the final adjustment. Note that the plastic tube runs just above the throttle servo arm and the throttle wire/arm is inverted for clearance.
The elevator/rudder/throttle/RX tray- is made of 1/8" lite-ply with 1/8" x 1/4" spruce cross braces. The location of the servos and tray were determined on the full size plan. The rudder servo is mounted on the 3/8" stand-offs and will attach to the rudder ABOVE the stabilizer. Okay, your asking what about the elevator pushrod? The cables will "cross" above the pushrod and not interfere.
Various pushrods for Calypso, Komet (small 3/16" rods), Dirty Birdy MK elevator bellcrank and Deception.
Steering mechanism thoughts? Good luck!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-26-2009 | 01:10 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...add rigid and tortional strength with little weight and few parts!
Many of the old designs are typically over-built...they can survive a crash or two. Sig Manufacturing produced a Komet, designed by Maxey Hester, in the early 70's. The model featured a basic box fuselage with a formed plastic turtle deck. I built one when I was about (13) and remember that the fuselage was kind of "twisty"...even with the wing mounted.
In my quest to recreate or build every classic pattern model from the 70's and 80's (not really...just my favorite 20!)...I have built a Sig Komet from a kit I found still in the plastic wrapper based on a "lead" from an RCU poster on Buy-Bay for...$125.00!!!
Adding a functional servo tray- a well designed servo tray will also add stregth. I generally create a card stock template (keep them for future use) to determine placement and problems. The Komet has a funky rear fuselage, it is about 2" wide, so the elevator and rudder pushrods are enclosed and accessible from the rear. Lightening holes remove a little bit of weight, are easily cut with a forstner bit and are kinda cool looking.
The most strength comes from the simple 1/4" x 3/8" square balsa sticks added. Note a 1/2" wide black strip on the fuselage side is a thin piece of carbon fiber ribbon CA's as a stiffener.
The Komet will have an old school Webra 10cc motor, and (3) Kraft wheels (Crank tells me that a pair of 2 1/2" Kraft wheels just went for $62.50 on Buy-Bay!)...very light and a color scheme similar to the original with a Mark Radcliff bias. The model is in line on the covering bench.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Many of the old designs are typically over-built...they can survive a crash or two. Sig Manufacturing produced a Komet, designed by Maxey Hester, in the early 70's. The model featured a basic box fuselage with a formed plastic turtle deck. I built one when I was about (13) and remember that the fuselage was kind of "twisty"...even with the wing mounted.
In my quest to recreate or build every classic pattern model from the 70's and 80's (not really...just my favorite 20!)...I have built a Sig Komet from a kit I found still in the plastic wrapper based on a "lead" from an RCU poster on Buy-Bay for...$125.00!!!
Adding a functional servo tray- a well designed servo tray will also add stregth. I generally create a card stock template (keep them for future use) to determine placement and problems. The Komet has a funky rear fuselage, it is about 2" wide, so the elevator and rudder pushrods are enclosed and accessible from the rear. Lightening holes remove a little bit of weight, are easily cut with a forstner bit and are kinda cool looking.
The most strength comes from the simple 1/4" x 3/8" square balsa sticks added. Note a 1/2" wide black strip on the fuselage side is a thin piece of carbon fiber ribbon CA's as a stiffener.
The Komet will have an old school Webra 10cc motor, and (3) Kraft wheels (Crank tells me that a pair of 2 1/2" Kraft wheels just went for $62.50 on Buy-Bay!)...very light and a color scheme similar to the original with a Mark Radcliff bias. The model is in line on the covering bench.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-26-2009 | 01:29 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...Alin wing #2 is covered!
The Zlin project continues to the last legg.
Photos show various views of the wing and aileron/flaps. I have heard grumblings about the new MonoKote...I thought I would buy a NEW MonoKote iron and heat gun to see if it may be a heat issue? Well, I am very pleased with the results using just the MonoKote iron- NO HEAT GUN, using the highest setting.
Surface prep- I finish shand with 80 grit...yep I said 80 grit! I stick the MonoKote directly to the wood, starting in one corner and moving across diagonally. The 80 grit leaves scratches in the wood that are not visible, but allow the air to travel around and out, avoiding bubbles.
The design- The design is drawn directly on the wood with straight edges and a fine line roller ball pen. Mistakes are cleaned up with Clorox and a Q-Tip.
Application- The bottom is first, dark blue for the Zlin, followed by the white trim on top. The red and blue are added last. The aileron/flaps are attached to the wing with Painters tape and the covering is applied over the entire top surface, then the parts are cut-away and little pieces of MonoKote complete the hinge lines and end caps. I did the covering in (4) 1 1/2 hour sessions from Christmas morning to this morning...about (6) hours.
The pushrod/control horn stuff- The carbon pushrod tubes are cut with a Dremel cutting wheel using painters tape with a mark. When the cut is complete, the part doesn't fly across the room 9very dangerous). Most of the parts are from Central Hobbies...MK ball bearing control horn ends, dual ball adjusters for the servo end, titanium threaded inserts, the carbon tube and the adhesive.
Santa brought Chip and Tom an new airplane!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
The Zlin project continues to the last legg.
Photos show various views of the wing and aileron/flaps. I have heard grumblings about the new MonoKote...I thought I would buy a NEW MonoKote iron and heat gun to see if it may be a heat issue? Well, I am very pleased with the results using just the MonoKote iron- NO HEAT GUN, using the highest setting.
Surface prep- I finish shand with 80 grit...yep I said 80 grit! I stick the MonoKote directly to the wood, starting in one corner and moving across diagonally. The 80 grit leaves scratches in the wood that are not visible, but allow the air to travel around and out, avoiding bubbles.
The design- The design is drawn directly on the wood with straight edges and a fine line roller ball pen. Mistakes are cleaned up with Clorox and a Q-Tip.
Application- The bottom is first, dark blue for the Zlin, followed by the white trim on top. The red and blue are added last. The aileron/flaps are attached to the wing with Painters tape and the covering is applied over the entire top surface, then the parts are cut-away and little pieces of MonoKote complete the hinge lines and end caps. I did the covering in (4) 1 1/2 hour sessions from Christmas morning to this morning...about (6) hours.
The pushrod/control horn stuff- The carbon pushrod tubes are cut with a Dremel cutting wheel using painters tape with a mark. When the cut is complete, the part doesn't fly across the room 9very dangerous). Most of the parts are from Central Hobbies...MK ball bearing control horn ends, dual ball adjusters for the servo end, titanium threaded inserts, the carbon tube and the adhesive.
Santa brought Chip and Tom an new airplane!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-26-2009 | 04:53 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...the Dirty Birdy is painted!
This is a continuation from post #41 discussing finishing resin and the BVM pre-primer pin hole filler.
The Dirty Birdy is one step closer to flying today. I picked up the fuselage from my new Naperville painter, Tim Olson. I met Tim at my Fox Valley R/C Fall Pattern Classic in September. He is a professional automobile restorer, specializing in Camaro and Trans Am vehicles from the early to late 70's-...a classic car restorer! Anyway, he is returning to pattern after some years away (we always get'em back) and I asked if he had ever considered doing some paint work...
The Dirty Birdy uses the PPG base coat clear coat system (the numbers will be posted later). I am very pleased with the results and look forward to dropping off a few other projects...Deception and Super Lucky Fly Supreme. The color scheme is a copy of the RCM, Ben Strasser construction article model.
The rudder, which had one application of the BVM pin hole filler, one coat of rattle can gray primer and a coat of sealer- turned out very good and will definitely use this fine product again.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
This is a continuation from post #41 discussing finishing resin and the BVM pre-primer pin hole filler.
The Dirty Birdy is one step closer to flying today. I picked up the fuselage from my new Naperville painter, Tim Olson. I met Tim at my Fox Valley R/C Fall Pattern Classic in September. He is a professional automobile restorer, specializing in Camaro and Trans Am vehicles from the early to late 70's-...a classic car restorer! Anyway, he is returning to pattern after some years away (we always get'em back) and I asked if he had ever considered doing some paint work...
The Dirty Birdy uses the PPG base coat clear coat system (the numbers will be posted later). I am very pleased with the results and look forward to dropping off a few other projects...Deception and Super Lucky Fly Supreme. The color scheme is a copy of the RCM, Ben Strasser construction article model.
The rudder, which had one application of the BVM pin hole filler, one coat of rattle can gray primer and a coat of sealer- turned out very good and will definitely use this fine product again.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-30-2009 | 02:12 PM
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...Dave Guerin building Blue Angel!
The Wega/Sunshine Blue Angel is getting closer based on the work of Dave Guerin.
The Challenge- What were the colors...really?
Interpretation- My goal is to recreate a handful of classic world championship airplanes using pretty much the same stuff as the original and particularly the color scheme. We are "stylizing" the photo below which seems pretty close to the model Mr. Yoshioka flew in Italy. We decided on a metallic blue, red, yellow, white, a cream for wing and stab with a 3/32" black stripe around all of the colors.
Progress- The fuselage has all of the color applied (PPG automotive base coat products) waiting for the graphics order and catalized urethane clear.
Graphics- Most of my pals give me a ton of crap about my use of graphics...yep, I like them! I have used and encourage all of you to use a very creative, reliable and inexpensive source for your graphics...www.badbradgraphics.com I send Bad Brad a scan, or sketch, photograph of what I need, dimensions of space to fill...and he does the rest.
Example #1- The Blue Angel needs a "777" in White with black border, the words "Blue Angel" in yellow cursive and "R. Dose" in silver. He created and cut the vinyl and shipped directly to Dave. Dave received the package, decided it needed to be smaller and Bad Brad made the changes and should arrive any minute.
Example #2- The MK Champion needed the word "Champion" and "MK-72" in a funky font, black with a white AND tiny black border...to a specific size and angle. I sent Bad Brad the top of the kit box, he did his magic and sent me the stuff.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
The Wega/Sunshine Blue Angel is getting closer based on the work of Dave Guerin.
The Challenge- What were the colors...really?
Interpretation- My goal is to recreate a handful of classic world championship airplanes using pretty much the same stuff as the original and particularly the color scheme. We are "stylizing" the photo below which seems pretty close to the model Mr. Yoshioka flew in Italy. We decided on a metallic blue, red, yellow, white, a cream for wing and stab with a 3/32" black stripe around all of the colors.
Progress- The fuselage has all of the color applied (PPG automotive base coat products) waiting for the graphics order and catalized urethane clear.
Graphics- Most of my pals give me a ton of crap about my use of graphics...yep, I like them! I have used and encourage all of you to use a very creative, reliable and inexpensive source for your graphics...www.badbradgraphics.com I send Bad Brad a scan, or sketch, photograph of what I need, dimensions of space to fill...and he does the rest.
Example #1- The Blue Angel needs a "777" in White with black border, the words "Blue Angel" in yellow cursive and "R. Dose" in silver. He created and cut the vinyl and shipped directly to Dave. Dave received the package, decided it needed to be smaller and Bad Brad made the changes and should arrive any minute.
Example #2- The MK Champion needed the word "Champion" and "MK-72" in a funky font, black with a white AND tiny black border...to a specific size and angle. I sent Bad Brad the top of the kit box, he did his magic and sent me the stuff.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
12-30-2009 | 05:11 PM
#100
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RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Rusty,
Downright outstanding paint job!
For what it's worth, please extend my humble thoughts to Dave. He is becoming a source for "further learning" on the art of building and finishing.
Keep up this great thread.
David.
Downright outstanding paint job!
For what it's worth, please extend my humble thoughts to Dave. He is becoming a source for "further learning" on the art of building and finishing.
Keep up this great thread.
David.
