lsnover

My Feedback: (19)

juddson

If this heli is such a popular model (and by all accounts, it seems like it is), why isn't there a generic parts market for things like blades and landing gear? Why isn't GWS making main rotors that fit the Blade for $3 a pop? The aftermarket replacement parts manufacturers do a thriving business when it comes to RCcars and trucks - why not the Blade? I think the Blade CP for $219 is a screaming deal, but it's also clear to me that Horizon means to make a good deal of its money on crash kits which - at $25 - seems like quite a bit of money to me.

judd

MikeFreas

They have to make money somewhere. If they are making 20 bucks per kit I would be surprised. LHS and Horizon make money off of the parts to stay in business. The blade is a new heli, aftermarket parts will come in time.

lsnover

My Feedback: (19)

Yeah, these things are getting to be like InkJet printers. Give the printer away and make gobs on the ink. ;-)

Tail motors at $8.99 with a cost of about 50 cents in bulk, and blades at $15.00 that probably cost them a buck. But hey, the distribution and marketing costs can get pretty high these days, and it has to be covered somewhere. It's the American way. I for one and glad Horizon is in this market. They've always treated me well as a customer when I've had problems, and it takes cash to have good support people, phone lines, insurance, a warehouse, etc. This is all part of the "cost" of that 9.00 tail motor.

Regards,
Lee

sdsavage

I had sent a email to horizon hobby about the tail motors burning out so quickly and this was there response. Hope it helps I Know some of you have already done this, but for those who haven't , check it out.
My Email
I've been reading the comments on the various RC groups on-line and there seems to be quite a concern over the tail motors continually burning out. I'm sure your company had been made aware of this issue and was wondering if perchance you had come out with a resolve to this problem.
Please tell me you have this matter in the works and maybe post something about any suggestions you may come up with to resolve this motor burn out problem. Better motor , Brush-less motor and how to's , different tail set up upgrade , anything? need Help.
Horizon Hobby Response
The Blade Heli has gone through extensive testing with stock motor setups, and lipoly batteries, and its been found that all you will need to do is change the pinion on the stock motor, and you will be able to run a 3 cell lipo with no trouble. You will want to change over to an 8 tooth pinion, and everything should work fine

lsnover

My Feedback: (19)

Are they talking about the pinion on the tail motor or the main motor?

sdsavage

That was all Horizon Hobby said, in as much as My original question was about the Tail Motor burn out. I gota think they are talking about the main motor pinion.
I saw wer bdavison had this comment about the pinion change in and earlyer segment of this Posting.

bdavison
I'd been flying around on the stock 10T pinion'd motor, so I decided to upgrade. The aerobatic enhancement kit comes with a 9T pinion. But Im nuts, so I went a step further and put a 8T pinion 370 motor in it...HOLY MOSES....

The head speed is really ripping now, and its smooooooooth as glass. The heli just gingerly lifts off the ground. And stays in a DEAD still hover. Its literally like its sitting on an invisable table or something. No more of that skid shaking slow head speed rattle, its smoooooooth.

The tail motor smoothed out too. Its not so twitchy. So basically drop the 9T or 8T pinion'd motor in yours. You'll notice a big difference. Run a 1320mah 3cell lipo and fly around for 25 min. I would recommend the TP 3cell 1320mah for max performance.

ReefsInFL

So by changing the main motor out with the upgrade kit (9T motor) this will speed up the head speed? For some reason I thought it slowed it down. I guess I was wrong??

DarkWombat

Well you have to be using a LiPo pack as well, because the stock battery pack only delivers 9.6 volts while a 3S LiPo pack delivers 11.1 volts, so the motors are spinning faster. To keep the main motor from burning out from high amperage draw, you have to use a 9t or 8t pinion gear so it is not working as hard, but with the smaller pinion you'll be getting more torque and speed because it's more voltage, but the motor isn't drawing too many amps. This is why you also have to put on the heat sinks so the motor doesn't burn itself out from the higher voltage. So yes, using a 9t or 8t pinion will give you improved performance if you're using a LiPo pack. No use in going to a smaller pinion if you're not using a lipo pack because you won't get as much torque, and don't stay with the 10t pinion if you ARE using a LiPo pack or you'll burn out your motor.

As far as LiPo's go, as much as I'd like to get one for my Blade (I've already got a larger pack and compatibble charger that I'm going to use for another plane) I'm really worried about the lack of a voltage cutoff which could result in over-discharging the battery pack and pretty much ruining it. How do you know when it's getting too close to being overdischarged? Is it obvious enough when to quit before it reaches that dangerous 3V per cell zone?

sdsavage

Can't you just add a Low Voltage Cutoff to it, I saw this ad at Horizon Hobby for
an Auto LVC unit. Would this Solve the over-discharging problem? It's like $19.00.

FMA’s new Auto LVC unit gives precise cutoff functionality to ESCs that weren’t programmed to properly detect low voltage with Li-Po packs. Users can also customize the cutoff point using a voltmeter and a tiny switch on the unit itself. Works with equally well with brushed or brushless motors.

ReefsInFL

I see now. So it does decrease head speed by changing the to 8 or 9T from the stock 10T, but with the added voltage it bring you back up to where it needs to be. I have put 3 flights on my blade with a 3c lipo with the stock motor. I guess I am lucky I have not burned them out. I am using the heat sinks though, so maybe that is helping. I will swap mine out with the 9T before my next flight. The head speed was really ripping with the 10T a 3c lipo though. It was rock solid as well. It will definately go inverted with a lipo.

DarkWombat

Heh you're a lucky one Reefs.

sdsavage: Thanks for posting about that. I was hoping a unit like that existed. Doing a quick search on Horizon showed this unit. It looks small and light enough to not cause any problems with weight or placement, just tape it to the top of the 4-in-1. I'll definately check something like this out when I decide to go LiPo. But now that I'm looking at it, I'm not sure how you would hook this unit up to the 4-in-1 because the battery connector of the 4-in-1 is soldered to the inside. I wouldn't want to have to cut the leads and make new plugs for this unit, will surely void the warranty.... But oh well we'll see.

Oh, and if you read that post I made earlier about the $12 stroboscope solder-yourself-kit, here's an update: I built mine in about a half hour, it's a very compact unit and the LED's are super bright. However, it turns out that 60 flashes/sec is still not fast enough to "freeze" the rotor blades very well, I'm looking into swapping the potentiometer, I already changed a capacitor thinking it would solve the problem but it didn't... Anyways, it still works well for checking if the blades are out of track. I just got my crash kit the other day (THEY'RE BAAACK!) and put on the new rotor blades (by the way the replacement blades don't have the colored tape on the edges, so take a sharpie and make your own colored markings) and tried tracking them. With the lights out except for a dim one the stroboscope worked great. I would look horizontally at the rotor head so I could see the edge of the blades and then put the stroboscope right below my head so it would flash on them, and I could easily tell how far off the blades were (it was pretty bad, needed some fixing). After a few seconds I determined which blade it probably was and made an adjustment, and it was getting more in track (also, remember to adjust the blade that's the LOWER one, keep the higher blade where it is). After a few runs I've gotten my blades as close as I can get to them being perfectly in track. At medium throttle with the stroboscope it's a smooth line when looking at them horizontally, with a few "bumps" in it but that's probably due to the shape of the blades themselves. So, if you're having trouble determining how well your blades are in track, get something like this instead of paying $200+ for a digital stroboscope that you won't need. You can check it out here. Also, I wrote a quick review on the site if you wanna read that too

mikie w

Outlaw Flyer,

I had the sticking collective pitch problem with the blade cp that I purchased this weekend and did the upgrade by swapping the washer and spacer. I don't know how much problem you had getting the allen head screws out of the end of the spindle, but mine would not come loose under normal procedures, i.e. two allen head wrenches. I striped out the hex head in one screw, and had to use long needle nose vise grips to grip the screw head. Had to exert quite a bit of force to break the screw free. Upon examination of the screws I found that they were assembled with a thread locking compound of unknown strength. The exertion tightening the screw at the factory, mushroomed the end of the spindles, and I had to beat the outside bearing off the spindle. Anyone using thread locking compound, such as loc -tite, should only use the blue as the red requires heat to soften. After removing the spindle along with the opposite hex head screw and spacers/washers were still attached to spindle. I used a 25 watt soldering iron just barely touching to the head of the screw to soften the locking compound applied at the factory. I find this type of assembly unsatisfactory on an assembly that is meant to be serviced. This may account for others having difficulty in removing the spindle and bearings, washers, and screws. If you would like to discuss this further please e-mail me at [email protected] or call 615-822-8470.

[>:]Yours Sky Cootie

Nubie_1

Well I just wanted to whey in here on this little Helli.
I'm really new to RC so new I havent even soloed my trainer plane yet but have been a real gamer on the PC and have a lot of eye and hand coordination and saw this little Helli at the shop the other day and wanted to get some stick time at home because I live about 35 minutes from the flying field and cant hardly get there through the week. So I did a little reading on this Helli on here to find out any info i could on it and read the manual and proceeded to set it up and began my adventure of hovering. I am so proud to say that after a long 10 batteries of practice of slow learning I'm up to a 4 foot hover and having a blast and still completely stock haven't broken anything as of yet. So i just want to pass on that why this little Helli may not be made for the beginner if a person puts a little Patience and hard work it can be done with maybe a little common sense on the side for caution.

Thanks To All
Chris

dribbe

Wiggle all the crystals in there sockets just to be sure....

If you have tried everything else (Tx batteries, Fresh motor w/9t if you have access to one, etc ), your unit may have a problem... Contact product support.

Have fun,
David

jet_d

I was wondering if anyone here is having problems with the Li-Po battery upgrade. I have had my Blade for a few days now and have had no issues with it. I purchased an upgrade kit with the symmetrical blades, heat sinks and motor and installed it on my heli. With the stock battery it flies fine but feels like it lacks power so I purchased a Thunder 11.1V 1320mah Li-Po and the thing just glitches. I start the motors up and bring the heli up to a 2 foot hover. It acts fine for a few seconds and then it just glitches. If I set it back down and turn off the motors the servos are still going in every direction. I reset the heli and tried flying in different locations but I still get the same outcome. If I put the stock battery back in it flies fine. According to my Duratrax Ice charger the Li-Po battery reads fine. Any ideas????

jrtmaser

My Feedback: (3)

Is the 8T pinion gear available as a replacement part for the supplied 10T pinioned moter or do you have to by a new motor with the the 8T pinion gear on it. If the pinion gear is available separatly is it difficult to remove the 10T gear and replace it with the 8T?

MikeFreas

The gears are pressed on and require quite a bit of force to get off. To install a new gear you cool the motor and heat the gear. I think GWS sells the gears. For 10 bucks it's better to just buy a new motor IMHO.

will

The gear can be removed with a pinion gear puller. If you don't have a puller, you can carefully split the gear with a Dremel cut-off wheel. Be sure to tape the motor vents so the brass filings can't get into the motor.

Press on the new gear using a vice or press. Check the electric forums for the correct procedure.

mrebman

I know the Blade is popular but I just bought an Esky Honeybee2 CP Helicopter off of Ebay. This is the totally RTF Heli WITH Extra set of Main Blades + Both Heat Sinks + Trainer Kit. I paid Total $152.50 (Shipped) & the HB2 is Basically identical to the Blade, The HB1 had totally interchangeable parts with the blade & the HB2 has some parts that are interchangeable. You could probably save yourself some money by getting a Honeybee, the LHS's around here all want $220 for the Blade & that's with NO extras, which you will need.

P.S. - Don't forget, the Honeybee2 CP comes with Lipo Battery, the Blade comes with NIMH, you'll have to buy the Lipo.

-Mike-

jet_d

Is it me or did the price on the crash kit go up for the blade? I could have sworn the price for the kit used to be $17.99. Every hobby store I go to now sells them for $23.00+. Does anyone know if just the main rotor blades are available without the crash kit?

dhmorrill

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, you can get just the rotor blades, they sell them at my LHS for $15.99, very soon they will be releasing the new composite rotor blades for the blade, My LHS said the end of this month they will be in so that will be cool and will help save alot on blade damage, they can still be destroyed but not as easy as the balsa blades.

MikeFreas

I have found that there can be a large difference in parts price from different vendors. Helihobby sells the enhancement kit for 28 where heliproz sells it for 22. I shop between Horizon. Helihobby and Heliproz. Heliproz was the cheapest on my last order then again I have to wait a bit longer. Before anyone bashes me for not shopping at my LHS they never have anything in stock. I would rather pay the extra few bucks and have the part now but they have not had parts or kits for three weeks!

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

That is a good price but who do you go to for warranty work??? Horizon's service center is second to none.

Kevin

DarkWombat

Well the training gear just came in to the shop I work at, as well as rotor blade sets (they came before in crash kits only, but now we have just the blades). I bought one of each and came home to hook everything up, my previous rotor blades took some damage so I figured replacements wouldn't be far behind....

When I came home, I replaced one of the new blades with a semi-beat-up one. the other older blade had a little damage but it wasn't terminal. I tried tracking but it seemed like one blade was actually longer than the other! I guess that there was a weight difference between the new and old blade, as no amount of tracking fixed the issue: the heli would jump around and vibrate a lot at any throttle setting. I swapped the remaining old blade with the second new one, used a red and black sharpie to mark the ends of each one and tada! There was practically no vibration even though the blades were out of track. After putting them perfectly in track it was phenominal, the helicopter wouldn't vibrate at all. This was all with the newly purchased training gear attached.

Be forwarned: the training gear does not have a manual. They expect you to know how to attach them. If you don't know how to attach them, it's very simple: those four small plastic pieces each mount to the join on the skids between the actual skid and the little plastic "neck" that attaches to the carbon fiber rods that run up into the body of the heli, with the two hook-like pieces attaching to the bottom of the skids and the clamp in the middle attaching to the neck. Do this for each one, pass a wire with a ball on it through each one and hook each end up to the circular plastic piece in the center and you're set.

So then I went to actually fly with the training gear, and THAT was awesome. The training gear do not swivel, they are locked in place. Their purpose is to stabilize the helicopter, by extending out a long way this makes it harder to tip, makes it take longer for the rotors to hit the ground, and they weigh the helicopter more in the center so it is not as responsive and does not move so quickly to give you more time to think. They also they provide a larger, more flexible landing surface so when you have your newbie landings you don't put so much stress on your skids and break them. It performed all of these functions very well. I was actually sustaining a fairly good hover for a few moments, doing small circles around the backyard and doing other maneuvers with more control than i did before without the gear. Finally, however, I screwed up as I tried to bring the heli forward after moving too far back towards the raised soil platform where some of the plants are. The heli was too low and as it came forward, one of the blades caught on dead branch lying on the ground, right at the anchor point on the rotor head and snapped right there. I had already cut the throttle a second before this happened so the blades immediaely stopped, and surprisingly the other blade was not even scratched.

Anyways the impacted blade was a ruin and I broke it apart in my hands. I noticed that lead (or whatever metal it is) weight down at the middle of the rotor blade. It is placed at the leading edge or the blade behind a bit of wood, and it is a long metal rod that extends almost to the tip of the blade. It did not come out easily, and it's not a small slug so it would be difficult for this weight to somehow fly out. The only way it could have a remote possibility of coming out would be if the blades were broken on the tips at least 1/2", and that's a lot of damage to the rotor blades to be still willing to use them. As far as the scare of getting hit with a weight, I think it's not a big risk as long as you throw your blades out after the tips get bashed up enough to lose a good amount of covering. By then they're ineffective anyways, as they will weigh differently than normal. Sure, you can try to cover them with tape and balance them, but you might as well replace them.

Anyways, to sum things up, as it seems I'm rambling...

1) Training gear are very helpful to all you new flyers. Horizon just got restocked, get them while you still can!
2) If your rotor blades are showing any signs of damage, get another pair and make sure the old ones are still performing well enough to not have to be replaced (check them with one old blade and one new blade for excessive vibration)
3) The metal weight in the blades is not going to sling out at you unless you try to make it sling out at you.