Zooland

How are you doing. The thing with the batteries i cant figure out either. When i use the stock battery and the 720 LIPO the blade does arm like it says in the book. It does the whole routine red flashes for about 10 sec, then green flashes 3 times and goes solid green. Then nothing. The thing is i dont think i fried my 4 in 1 because it works with the 1320 battery.

Anyways i have one more issue. I attempted to fly with the 1320 and one of my flat bottom blades got broke right in two pieces before the blade grip. As a result of that 2 of my training balls flew about 50 feet in the air. I am lucky the one just barely missed me.

This is my first heli and iam not sure what is wrong. My best guess would be the pitch is off with the blades that why it hit the skids but i could be wrong. Could somebody please help me out with this.

rmeder: the size is 1.5 mm

Thanks Scott

First question- try it and see. I have a prop adapter that I bought when I went DD. I never used it for two reasons. First it was too heavy and at the time my 2s lipos were already too far forward to correct CG. Second, the push on prop worked so well i didn't care.

Second part of question one- will it work with the stock motor? Who knows. Again it will only take a few minutes to find out.

Question two--your lhs should have a pinion puller. About $14.

Three--the purpose of inverting the plug is to reverse polarity. So basicly you're already switching the wires at the motor. And yes you will have to reset proportion.

The battery thing is just plain wierd. Do you have any planes or something else to use them in? One thing I would check is the tightness of the motor pinion to the gear. It should be snug but not tight. I try to set mine so it just touches the gear. It will have a tiny bit of movement (about the width of a piece of paper, or .002"). If it's too tight the motor may be binding and the weaker battery may not have enough to spin it up.

On the blades. Make sure you balance the blades before using them. As I mentioned a while back, I haven't had a set match from the factory yet. Then set up your trims before flying. You have to do this for every set of blades. It's a pain, but it's worth it.

Bdavison has a very detailed thread to help with proper setup. Good reading. And www.bladecprepair.com

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31..._1/key_/tm.htm

Hey Zoo,

I think I read somewhere that the leading edge of the tail rotor should rotate up into (toward) the main rotor. Think it matters?

If it does this new TR may not work.

The pitch is the opposite of the stock which means the only way the new rotor would move the tail to the left would be to have it turn CW instead of the stock CCW.

If the leading edge up into the main rotor doesn't matter then I don't have to switch anything, just bolt it on.

It still has to rotate the same way. If you keep the motor shaft on the same side, you mount the blade backwards and reverse polarity. I'll have to fire mine up in the morning and see which way it actually turns. Never really paid attention to it. Maybe since I'm on the opposite side, that's why it works on mine.

Flipping the blade over won't change anything. Just flip the power wires around, and it will run the other direction I beleive, but someone mentioned a push on DD tail rotor, but I can't remember the manuf.

Sending the training balls flying is not unusual in a crash landing. I've done it before. But you really didn't give enough info about how it happened to suggest anything. When the heli slams down, the blades flex and also pivot on the blade grips. They can easilly hit the training balls, especially if you went in at an angle and the balls flexed upward.

Doug

I'll have to experiment this afternoon, but I think that flipping the blade doesn't change the angle of attack, it changes the leading edge. If you just reverse polarity the trailing edge will become the leading edge, that's why you would also have to flip the blade. The push-on prop is GWS.

In all honesty, I flipped my motor to the other side 'cause that's what everybody else was doing when they used the actual GWS mount. It worked, I was satisfied. So now I'll do the scientific research to see if my theories are correct.

Just a note to you newbies. Check out Radd's school of Rotary Flight. It might help you out, if you can discipline yourself to follow the instructions. I personally didn't learn this way, but wish I had come across something like this when I was starting out. Even if you don't follow him to the letter you will learn a lot.

http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html

Regarding the DD tail.

Well I've looked at and studied this for two days now and only one thing will make this work.

The "leading edge of the rotor must rotate up towards the main rotor" thing can't matter. If it does, this set-up will not work.

The pic of the DD tail on the Blade cp repair site clearly shows that with the prop oriented the way it is, it will have to spin leading egde down, away from the main rotor in order to properly move the tail to the left. (as viewed tail toward you)

If this is OK then you don't have to flip the motor mount or reverse the wiring, just put the rotor on the shaft and your done.
If this is not OK then you will need a prop that has the reversed pitch.

The stock rotor propels air from left to right with the tail toward you. It does this with it's leading edge moving up toward the main rotor.

The blades on the new rotor are opposite the stock so for it to propel air from left to right like the stock one, it has to spin in the opposite direction which would be leading edge down away from the main rotor.

So, either some people have found the correct pitch blade or the spin direction doesn't matter as long as it's propelling air from left to right (tail toward you)

DJDAVIDCP

Sorry for the lack of info. When my training balls and my came off and my blade cracked in half i was still on the ground. In fact i was running full throttle the heli never came off of the ground. It was on the ground the whole time. That is why iam not sure how the blades came in contact with the training balls.

Anways iam going to get a new set of blades and balance them. Then i will check the main blade angle and pitch and see what happens from there. Thanks for the help.

Scott

I've been studying this thing for about an hour and have come to this conclusion. My setup is not supposed to work. As newblade just said, the rotor is supposed to turn up into the main, or when the rotor is facing forward the leading edge should be on top. Mine is "not". I went through every chopper in G3. Every one of them is correct. Looking from the rear of the chopper, if the rotor is on the right side it rotates CCW. Rotor on the left side CW. Mine rotates CCW on the left side (just as depicted at bladecprepair). This ain't supposed to work. But it does. Just to be kosher, I'm going to flip my motor to the other side and get the rotation in the proper direction. Why take chances that when I start 3D'n I crash simply because of rotor wash. The only thing I can think of is because I'm using such a small rotor, the wash isn't strong enough to have a negative effect.

I have tried to fly a model in the sim that someone created to mimic the blade. This model does have the rotation reversed (I didn't count this in my analysis since someone else created it). It's also extremely difficult to control. Could it be trying to tell me something? Maybe, just maybe, the rotor wash is the reason and the sim dynamics are reacting accordingly.

i just got threw with building my Balencer tool


cept i made it 9 inches tall and i can balence my whole heli at once and the rotor head/blades


heres were i got the idea from






Heres mine

Does anyone else other than me enjoy flyin after a couple of drinks? I can readily gauge my intoxication by my flying inabilities. ..Great hobby I must admit.

Comment from a friend of mine in another forum:

"Putting the tailrotor so that the forward blades go up into the flow of the main rotor makes the tailrotor a little more powerful, but it won't be a night and day difference. Imagine a helicopter hovering inverted, the tail would no longer be in the downwash from the main rotor but it still had plenty of authority.

Our Lynx helicopters have the tail rotor blades going down with the wash from the main rotor. Later modifications have the tail rotor blads going up into the rotor wash."

The Lynx he's referring to are Norwegian military choppers

hey i hav a question. I have a blade and i crashed it a couple of times hehehe but when I put the new blades on i plugged the batttery in and I highered (which isnt a word but) the throttle and the blades started to spin untill I got to almost take off it starts to idle and stayed the same speed. the light also was green untill I get to 3/4 throttle on the transmitter then it goes red and makes a wierd noise. I tried charging the battery many times but no luck any ideas?

The Blade CP main rotor blades turn Clockwise, and so does the tail rotor if ya look at it from the motor side.

I thought I was the only one. I fly sort of okay with none. No confidence (actually, a sort of a fear), but with some practice it seems to have worked. After 2-3 drinks I actually surprise myself with the control I can get. Beyond that, I'm just playing with testing my limits on the SIM or buying parts. I can see what's happening and know what to do... but just react slower and slower. Or over react. Mostly over react after reacting slower. There in lies the game. And the risk. My form of gambling.

Check your tracking. Sounds like the blades are fighting. You could also have some slight negative pitch.

Dennis---you're correct, but if you look from the back you realize the tail rotor itself is actually turnig CCW. But as Lynxman pointed out, it don't matter as long as it flies.

So Zoo,

What have we decided? Gonna stick with the DD tail? Gonna try to find a reverse pitch rotor? Gonna fly it just like it is because obviously it works?

The only reason I don't "just try it" is because I don't yet have the pinion removal tool.

I'm tempted to just throw it back together stock and be done with it but if the DD makes a big difference then I'll get the tool and do it.

Well for me, I guess I'll leave mine as is because it works fine. IMO the DD is worth it simply because it's a better motor. Plus I feel I have much better response. The pinion tool is for the main motor, which if I recall, you already have. Didn't you say you bought the enhancement kit? It comes with the 8t pinion motor. You can also buy the 8t motor for about $10 (my lhs had it). That's how I got mine. Even though I have the pinion tool it was easier than trying to find a pinion.

Another one of my buddies just posted he had a hummingbird that he had gone DD with a cdrom motor. He had the same concerns we've been talking about so he found a pusher prop and tried it. He said it made absolutely no difference.

Who sells the pinion gear pullers ? and do they also have something to push it on ? Also, who has this DD Motor and push on Tail Rotor. I sick of defective TM's...

I got mine at the hobby shop in Jacksonville. My local shop doesn't have them. According to bladecprepair the part # for the motor is GW/EDP-50H. The prop is a 3" push-on prop with for 1.5 mm shaft.

You can see what the pinion puller looks like here http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.as...&CategoryID=71 Most shops carry this because you use the same one for cars and planes. The hard part is finding someone who has separate pinions. The more expensive choppers usually come with different size pinions as part of the kit, so larger pinions are more common.

As far as pushing them back on, I use a rubber mallet or pair of pliers.

Hey Zoo,

In the above you say that the pinion tool is for the main motor which doesn't need it because the new motors come with the pinions...?

Huh?

I was talking about using the tool on the TM. Or is the tool to big?

Also when I go to check out the motor thats on the BCP repair site, when you click on it you go to horizonhobby which doesn't yet have the motor. So where is everyone getting this bigger (physically) motor?

zooland

As far as balancing the blades. I was reading through bdavisions link you sent me and i seen the picks. Do you happen to know what he is using as a stand in the pic to support the blades. Also does anydody make any blade balancers that you reccomend or would use.

Thanks Scott

The reason I talk about the main motor is the replacement motor is the same as the stock one with a different pinion. Depending on the batteries you use, you can change the pinion accordingly. You can use the tool for any 1-5mm shaft. As far as the TM, I personally wouldn't use the stock TM DD. It's not designed to use without a gear. The RPM is way too high and it very likely would burn out even faster. The GWS E50 motor doesn't come with a pinion so you don't need the tool for that. If you can't find the motor anywhere else, Heli-Hobby or Heli-Direct usually have it. Just put the part number in Google and see what you come up with. That's how I find 90% of the things I order. That give's me the opportunity to compare prices and if I'm looking for multiple parts I can find who has them all so I can combine shipping.

Baddley--check out the pic in my gallery. I got the idea from bladecprepair and made it by bending a piece of aluminum in a vise, then putting a piece of plywood in the middle after I bent it and drilling a hole through both sides at the same time. Then I just trimmed it to the hole. I use a short piece of 2-56 threaded rod as a beam with nuts on each side to pinch the blades together.