While i was hovering last night i cracked my red blade hehe ,

i fixed it with Tape thoe !!!

I redid my workbench too BTW

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/6600/dscn07020ip.jpg

I was about to get a Blade CP today but then I thought about it and realized that the Pro version isn't goin to cost very much more (certainly less than it would cost to upgrade the stock CP) so I decided I'd wait out the 4 weeks until it comes in (around June 22). Should have some fun with this since I have a cheap one off of Ebay that is a ***** to fly...no joke it doesn't go where I want, when I got it the electronics pretty much blew up and broke the tail rotor and main blade cuz the throttle was stuck just high enough that it didn't have lift to stay up but enough to break the blades, and now I have broken the flybar and tail shaft in the last 2 days...also it won't go forward too good but it sure goes backwards. I'm supposing that the CP will be a hell of a lot easier to fly than the stupid Himoto Cyclone that I have... Can't wait til it comes in

:/

how do you even brake a tail boom lol

ive hit ALOT of REALLY hard things and only broke blades and 1 skid


i think jesus loves me

j/k

I don't know about that, but the model airplane gods must be on your side this week. LOL

i hope they are on my side for along time to come hehe

You and me both... They have been on my side lately, and I hope I don't do anything to make them angry... Im having too much fun to crash. LOL

This was a couple pages back, but I figured I would comment.

To whomever made the video with the jimmy buffet soundtrack. That's good flying for still having the trainign gear on. You should loose those things and see how much better it reponds without them. You mentioned something about the thing wobbling when going from forward flight to a hover. I also notice it loosing altitude. The reason for this is VRS. Vortex Ring State... This is common to all helicopter and is a result of the rotor blades passing through turbulent air created by the rotor blades. Confusing? think of it this way. When the rotor blades push air down, the air gets very turbulent and bumpy. Then, when you drop the blades down into their own turbulence, they become less efficient, and the heli kinda "falls" out of the sky, or wobbles around. When you are in forward flight, the helicopter doesn't require as much pitch because the rotor doesn't have to "work" so hard due to the calm air constantly passing through and under the blades. When you get into a hover, the air underneath the rotors gets very turbulent, and the rotor has to suck additional air into the rotor from the top. It requires a lot more power and pitch to hover. When decending, in hover, you have to do it very slowly, or in steps. You can't decend quickly with a helicopter. The best way to decend (and most realistic scale way) is to make an approach, either in a straight shot, or in circles(not pirouettes). Adding some forward motion puts calm air under the blades. As you move forward, you can really cut the power back, until you are decending at almost a 45 degree angle. when you get a few feet above the ground(about 6 feet), add lots of power, and nose up to stop the forward motion. Just add power, and you won't have wobble. Same goes for forward flight. In order to lessen that wobble, you have to use more throttle stick control, and balloon out, or flare out your transitions from forward flight to hover. Upon approach to a hover, from forward flight, dip the nose down slightly, then pull back "aft" cyclic and add a burst of throttle/collective. Then, gradually return the throttle to a normal hover position. This will flatten out the rotor and allow a stable hover without the unnessesary wobble or drop in altitude. If you think it is bad with the Blade CP, get a .50 sized nitro bird with carbon fiber blades. It will drop like a rock once you reach a certain point of air turbulence under the rotor.

Without those training sticks, the response will be a lot better, and you'll find you didn't need them anyway. I see you get very close to the ground on a couple of occasions. The best thing to do is add lots more throttle than you think is nessesary. You can always loose power quickly, but gaining it is slow.


Dennis,
I am with you on the nitro birds. They are a TON easier to fly than the blade cp, and although you do need to exaggerate certain maneuvers to compensate for the size, they are deffinitely fun to fly. Crashing them is another thing...

I'd rather crash my blade cp 50 times, than crash the nitro once. I have dropped the Blade CP out of the sky, then picked it up, set it on it's skids, and flew away from the crash site. You can't do that with a .30-.90 size heli.

I also think that the Blade CP is a great trainer for the nitro birdies. If you can fly the Blade CP with confidence, the nitro machine will deffinitely be a welcomed change. I like to fly my nitro machines, and my planks, and my Blade CX, but I use the Blade CP religiously, for "real life" training for the nitro machines. The sim is good, very good. It's a great way to kill time when you can't play with yoru toys, but the Blade CP is like putting weights on a baseball bat. When you take those weights off(move to nitro) everything reaction is faster than nessesary, and everything seems so smooth.

I just hate flying a nitro helicopter for 3 or 4 hours, then trying to fly the Blade CP. I forget how much different it is, and usually within the first couple minutes, if you listen really hard, you'll hear "Oh crap!" come from my house. That's the sound of me forgetting about the squirrely whirrly bird.

John

John, thanks for the info, to all this is good stuff!!!! I flew the Blade today with the symetrical blades and used the idle-up switch. NO BIG DEAL. I thought once I hit the switch all hell would break loose, not the case, just remember to switch it back I had alot of fun and Johns right about the training gear. I did a loop today with the training gear on and it wasn't pretty[:'(]I thought to myself that the training gear probably made it to sluggish. I don't remember who said that they learned to fly on AFPD and then set the blade up propperly after reading and it worked well. To anyone trying to fly the Blade out of the box, DON'T! "DO" Read the bdavision's E-flite Blade Assembly thread and set the Blade according to this. It will actually fly like the heli's on AFPD. John thanks for the input about the air, it really make alot of sense, that's what Zooland1 was trying to say too. I came into the hover much differntly than I did before, like you stated and had no problems. I love flying in the ground effect now that I can feal what the chopper is going to do. I just can't wait for that first tail motor to burn out Thanks to everyone's input on this thread, You guy's are making it easy to fly a difficult machine

If it makes you feel better, I've been trying to fly my Trex for two days. In one rough landing; I wrecked a set of blades, damaged the drive gear, broke a blade grip, and nearly bent the tail in half. It took nearly six months to do that much damage to the blade. Sad thing is, the rex really is easier to fly. But I guess being so much heavier, when it does come down too hard it does more damage.

Easy, mine is almost broken just from picking it up near the end of the boom all the time (its a cheap heli but still...). I can see a bunch of cracks in it and if I keep picking it up that way it will break just like my tail shaft did, in small little fibres

I put my first 2 fingers under the read skid brace, and my thumb over the boom. Works great, is easy, and doesnt stress anything...

i searched this thread and found no references to using the stock 4-in-1 with a brushless esc/motor. i previously read this thread:

[link=http://runryder.com/helicopter/t216550p3/]Stock BCP 4-in-1 Brushless[/link]

i was wondering if someone here has experience with this mod. i understand how it all works and can perform the needed soldering etc... to do the job right. i'm just curious if the mamba sport package i have in my mini-t would be worth giving a go. i'm not sure about what pinions i could use, expected headspeed, overheating...

any help is appreciated[]

[edit: nevermind, darn brakes.]

Well, I had a good night, and a bad night too... I can fly my Nexus around now, but every time I try to fly my BCP, the TM gets weird, and I crash... Needless to say, it happened again tonight... BCP now needs a new frame, main gear, blades, another tail motor, and tail motor harness. I knew it was a mistake flying it before I got another TM, but it seemed to be getting better... oops !!! Here's whats left of the BCP, and also me flyin my Nexus 30...

I think the motor would be wound too low to power the blade without a very large pinion. Car motors are wound for torque not speed. My son-in law picked up a motor/ speed control combo on e-bay yesterday for $25. He said there were five more available at the time. you want a motor of at least 2000 kv with an 11t pinion for the blade. I wound my own cd rom motor for it but haven't used it. I just read Sunday where somebody on the HF forum was talking about having brushless on his, said it was a huge improvement, but I can't remember where I saw it. The easiest I've heard is to use the stock main and a cd rom tail.

OMG Denis,

Im crushed along with you !

In reply to Dennis,[] That sucks! Good to hear that the Nexus is going well though[8D]

Yep, the BCP is not working out for me at all. I now already have more in it than I do in the Nexus, and the Nexus doesn't have any weird issues. I havn't even needed to adjust the carb. It runs better than my Chevy truck... My BCP has always been an out of control POS. LOL

HEHE


Well its not windy out so im gonna try to fly mine ,

i hope i can

Part of this is also due to the relative speed of the air across the blades. When you hover the blade speed is exclusively dependant on the rpm of the rotor. When you are in forward flight you get to add the forward speed to the head speed which increases air flow. There is a bit of a loss on the blade headed down wind, but there is still an apreciable difference between a hover and forward flight. This is why you need to reduce throttle when you fly forward and advance the throttle when you hover.

G

Thats all well and good, but what good is it if every time you try to fly it, it suddenly piroette's while in a bank turn, and down ya go !!! Im thru with tail motors for now... I ain't real happy with 4 in 1's either... A guy would be alot better off to get a good quality heli with a belt or a shaft driven tail and a variable pitch tail rotor, and seperate rec, spd cntrl, and gyro from the get go... I have about $550.00 into my BCP now, and all I have is a damm bowl of parts left. On the other hand, I have $600.00 in my Nexus, and it flies like a Cadillac, and has perfect tail control. It's very easy to fly, and it never does anything weird. And it's supposed to be an antique piece of outdated trash !!! Ha !!! I love my Nexus !!! Anyone want to buy a Blade CP in a bowl ??? LOL

Dennis I pmed you

i need to check out the cd-rom tail motor you mention. is it for dd or gears?

the mamba motor i have is 3200kv, 2200kv would be even more torqey (more kV = less torque more horsepower). most ppl seem to think 3600kv w/8t is reasonable with 3s 1200mAh. i hear 4100kv w/7t is also good, but the 7T 0.5M pinion is kind of hard to find and an 8T gives too much headspeed (~2500RPM). i figure i'd need a new brushless esc like the cc phx10 or similar to go with the mamba i have. if i decide to do it, i'll probably start with a 9T if i can find one in 0.5M.

My email is "[email protected]" and my phone number is (530) 528-9123

I was thinking just the opposite on the motor. The motor in my Stampede is 2200kv. You're right, the mamba apparently would be a good motor if it fits. But then again I agree, you'd really be cooking with 8t. How many amp esc is in your car? Is 10 enough? I'd personally lean to 25.

As far as the cd motor, mine is 9 turns of 22ga. wire on a 20x5 mm stator. You can get some good ideas from gobrushless.com. I got most of my insight from a guy out in Washington named Art Newland. He put a similar motor on his Picollo tail and another homemade for the main and started talking about it in RCG. He is using total separates though, so I don't know if you're wanting to go that route. I bought a 2-in-1 to go brushless, but again, it's sitting in a box in the shop. If I burn out a tail motor (unlike Dennis, who goes through motors like Talon goes through blades) I'll likely use one of my cd motors there, but I'm pretty happy with the brushed on the main.

Well, it seems that everyone just wants to buy certain pieces, so rather than go thru the parting out hassel, im going to repair it. I have cleaned all the 2 sided tape off everything, and im ready for the new frame and stuff. I hope I don't have any more tail motor troubles. Im going to keep this thing low for a long time. I'll just practice scootin around a foot off the ground for a couple of years. LOL Think i'll get the new plastic symetrical blades coming out too... I think they said 2 to 4 weeks on those... or was it just 2 weeks... gotta have em !!!