hahaha...lol...YEAH....Dont I wish there was a "reset" button for the real thing.
Its like those Staples commercials on TV....we need a "easy" button, where heli parts would fall from the sky....hmmm "where heli parts would fall from the sky"......perhaps that was a bad choice of words....I have that now[]

I went 15 days in a row of flying every day without a crash. I was trying some nose in hovering today in the back yard and lost it and crashed. I instinctively reached for the red reset button, but there wasn't one Oh well.... time for a new set of blades and a spindle.....

Staples actually sells those buttons. I walked in the other day and they had a big display of them. My problem is, I'd probably get somebody elses and make life simple for them. Come to think of it, I think I have my wife's easy button. She pays no bills. Gets free living quarters, internet, cable, etc. And has a husband too stupid to divorce her. Yep, I definitely have her easy button instead of mine.

Does anyone know where to get a heli for G3 that is as unstable as the blade? closes I found was the shogun 400 V2.

I have a question about the stock battery the cp comes with. Since I got mine I have been charging my pack on my prophet plus charger @ 1 amp. Charge time is usually 30-40 minutes. I've gone through about maybe 8 charges now and my charge time is going down to about 20 minutes and I am only getting 2-3 minute flight with half power. My question is am I frying the pack by charging it on my prohpet plus? Or is it just a dud pack?

Thanks in advance!

What are the differences between the Blade CP and the HoneyBee CP2. I have read through many many threads and it appears that there isnt much!

Why is the Blade CP more than the Honeybee?

Can I buy Blade CP replacement parts for my Honeybee CP2?

I cant seem to find many replacement parts and upgrades for the HBCP2, but tons for the Blade CP

Thanks!

The frames are slightly different, and so are the landing gear struts (so they'll fit each frame) The stock landing gear is screwed into the side of the HB2 frame, and it slides into holes on the Blade CP frame. HB2 may come stock with an 11.1v LiPo, which is a plus. The electronics seem identical, though I doubt E-flite would admit it.

I have both. Actually, after a catastrophic crash of my BCP, I decided to buy the barebones HB CP2. The HB is, IMHO, a better copter. It has a better head (bell-hiller) and comes standard with the aerobatic upgrade (but no heat sinks) and a lipo battery and charger, for slightly less money. Part of the reason there aren't as many upgrades for the HBCP2 is because it already comes with the better head and the aerobatic/lipo upgrade. I have not seen any LHS that carries parts for the HB, but ordering the parts is no problem, either Helidirect or Helihobby carries them.

Since the heads are different, there aren't many parts that can be swapped, perhaps the blade grips and swashplates. The tail rotors appear to be identical. I can't comment on the electronics, since I bought the barebones kit and moved all the servos/4-1 from the BCP to the HB CP2.

Just FYI, there are about 5 different versions of the HB, be sure you get the CP2. There is also a "King" version which appears to be a slightly larger copter, and uses a tail rotor servo.

Anybody have any idea about my battery question?

Wow, thanks for that reply Toprudder.

Yea, I did get the CP2 Version 2. I am still awaiting its arrival. I also purchased the training kit and an extra Lipo 1300mah battery.

Should i order a heat sink too? I'm thinking about placing an order for extra blades and a heat sink.

Anything else i should get?

thanks!!!

I don't know if you really need the heatsink or not. I had bought the aero upgrade for the BCP, so I had them anyway. I'm sure the heatsinks would not hurt. BTW, my son has a Blade CX, and the motors get hot on that, so I think I will get a heatsink for those.

Extra parts?? Rotor blades and main shaft are the big ones, maybe the landing skids also. The really nice thing about the HB is that the shaft can be removed out of the top since the gear is not molded onto the shaft. I just had to do that to mine, I bent that shaft slightly and was able to pull it out of the top, straighten it, and put it back in just a few minutes.

The stock pack is a 650mah NiMH, which should be charged at no more than 1C or .65amps

You have probably damaged the cells, and it needs to be replaced.

Jess

Have you recycled the battery. It sounds to me like you're just charging it and that's it. Occasionally you have to completely discharge the battery and then charge it. Charge rate on nimh is a little higher than acad or lipos, but 1 amp is pretty high for a 650. Also the faster you charge the less charge your battery will take before it thinks it's fully charged.

jeffdom-all the parts are interchangeable between the blade and cp2, but you have to change the entire mechanism. For instance, the cp2 head will fit the blade, but you have to change the entire head. The main shaft and drive gear are the same way, but IMHO the cp2 parts are far superior to the e-flight ones. I'm not sure at this point if I have a blade or a cp2 with a blade canopy. And that's not including the GWS tail and MX400 LG.

Hi I have the E-flite Blade CP as well I know I was charging the battery the same way I fond out you need to charge it at about 0.8 it takes about 45 to 50 minutes to charge the battery you should run it till the heli dos'nt throttle up of the ground I got that from the Hobby shop were I got mine at I charge my E-flight with the HOBBICO QUICK FEILD CHARGER MKII
I put the AMPS set to 0.8 it takes about 50 minutes to charge the battery I get about 15 minutes flite time good luck hope this helps you Bill Clark

Hello FlyGirl950[8D]
I can't see that you've done damage to your pack. But * Battery's like those need to be be run down every time to a certain level before recharge. If your only using 1/2 the power and then recharge them, * They Remember. Run your bird's battery down to the point where it requires 3/4 throttle or so to fly. Then charge it and do the same 2 - 4 times more to get the pack back to normal.
I've had mine since christmas and went to a 11.1V 1320 Li-Po fast as the stock pack only gave at best 12 min's flight time w/o showing off. The 1320 Li-Po gives me 33 min's average hovering and alittle more just buring holes in forward flight. Practice your hovers at eye level and set your trims for best hover, stay off the idle up switch until you want to roll or loop. That will help your power problem alittle.
May The Force be with You!

I thought NI-Hm batteries didn't suffer from the memory effect like Ni-cad, that you didn't have to deep cycle Ni-HM batteries, any one no for sure? Just got my Bell Mixer upgrade kit from Horizon

Technically it's not a memory thing, they just don't hold the charge as well if you don't cycle them once in a while. With Nicad, you have to cycle them every time and eventually they do develop the "memory" where they just no longer have the same capacity and there's no way to get it back..

Also, be sure to let them cool before charging and after charging before use. That is very important.

I currently have a Saber and I must say I am sick of it. It is fixed pitch and unstable like a squirrel in a potato sack. I can take off, hover, and somewhat move around in my garage and sort of land it where I want it land. But it is a lot like a sharp stick in the eye.
My Hobby store guy said "...and you can hover that thing?" then recommended the BCP But they are back ordered and don't expect delivery until next week. So I'm on the wait list.
Meanwhile I'm putting my saber on sale on the internet.

Does anyone have a wiring description for converting the BCP over to a regular JR receiver and a Futaba gyro. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

They don't. Most NiCads don't either, except sintered plate NiCads do (if anyone still uses them) but you have to: 1. discharge them to the exact same point each time for it to happen (very hard to do) and: 2. not overcharge them at the end of a charge cycle, but most chargers do this so they know when to shut off (they dectect the slight voltage drop when a cell is overcharged).

I think most people are confusing 'voltage depression' with 'memory effect'. Voltage depression happens with NiCD and NiMH batteries with age. Each cell may drop fairly quickly from 1.2v to 1v, for example, but then it levels off and the charge still lasts it's normal time. This can be cured by completely discharging each cell individually and then charging it again. But, if you do this to the whole cell pack (which most people do), some cells will discharge before others, and the discharged ones will then be partially recharged backwards by the stronger ones in the pack. This is not good and can kill the pack.
The older a battery gets or the more times it's charged, the less it's likely to hold it's charge. In other words, batteries do have a life span. For Lithium batteries, estimate that after 50 charges they will likely have 50% to 80% of their original performance (depending on how they've been treated/abused). Some new LiPo batteries are claiming to be good for 200 charge cycles. You'll know which ones they are because they make a big deal about it in their advertising.

Is this enough information?

teufelhundin,

Using a JR rx is easy but requires hacking the rx. Remove xtal and 4 screws on rx side, pry lightly and then wiggle rx out. Using cutters and small scissors, cut the plastic part of the 4in1 down level with the back of the ESC side. This leaves 2 3 pin female connectors exposed. The top connector is the throttle input to the ESC with the black wire (return) being on the left side. The bottom connector is the rudder wich goes to the gyro and tail mixer. Using 2 each 3" servo extenders (remove outer covering over male pins VERY carefully to allow plugging in those 2 connectors side by side) connect the JR rx to the (now) 3in1 rudder and throttle signals. This completes the conversion to a JR rx but using the brushed controllers for both motors. I do not know how to convert to brushless tail motor, but this is the way to use another rx. I converted to brushless main motor using CC25 and use the existing gyro and brushed tail motor which uses a "Y" cable from the throttle output to both the new CC25 and the throttle input of the 3in1. Flies great.

Cheers

I am looking to use just the stock brushed motors but with a JR receiver and a Futaba gyro. The problem I am having is powering the tail rotor.

I am using a Eflite 2&1, works pretty good. Has ports for both main and tail motors, a throttle connector and a rudder connector that go to the receiver.

crashn)_

Has anyone tried a brushless tail motor? The reason i wonder is i run an eflite 370 brushless main motor with a gws pg 03 gyro controlled by a jr 8103 radio. No matter how i set it up the tail cannot seem to keep the bird straight? Any suggestions would be appreciated!!