Hello everyone. Well im back in the air. Finally after 2 or 3 weeks down im flying again. Replaced the tail motor and the cp flies awsome. First flight test the blades were like 1.5' off track. But after i fixed it it was smooth flying. I did notice something right before my tail motor gave out few weeks ago. I realized that i learned flying the cp in reverse! I learned to fly it with the rudder channel reversed. When i pushed the rudder to the right the tail would go right not the nose, and left was the same. Sucks cus now i had to kinda re-learn it again. But today the flight was smooth i was doing figuire eights and everything so i guess i picked up quicker now. I took a few vids and ill post them up soon as i can. So glad i could start flying it again. I went to the local hobby shop yesterday to get teh tail motor and they have a real flight g3 station set up. Gave it a shot and the first heli i went for was the mx400. WOW. It was fun. I had that reverse rudder problem for like the first minute or so but after a few broken simmulated blades i got it down packed and did a few nice flights. cant believe how realistic that game is. Anyone knows where i can get just the interlink controller without buying the whole set?

hi everyone.
i just love the bh, got one flight indoor adapting to it, but really responsive. i didnt get the tail motor yet since it is seemingly fine. (knock on wood) . i did check that i've tightened the collar, and i know that the play in the servors are normal since i check out a new BCP and was exactly the same. very slopy. but for the price, i think it's pretty fair. but the helicopter still seems to be surging up and down sum times. this time, i'm not exactly sure it's radio interference. i might try the 9T main motor that came with the AEK, (still running the stock 10T on a 1050 lipo). i know it'll kill your motor faster but i figured what the heck, i'm never changing back to stock batt so the 10T would be useless, so i guess i'll just run it till it kills itself from ecessive current draw and then i'll change to the 9T. (escuse from laziness)[&:].

and also, i've got a problem i notice that occured after i got the bh. i figured that if i were to increase the pitch of the main blades to hover in a lower throttle setting, the rotor head would wobble, quite terribly actually. my main blades are tracked, spindle's ok, drive shaft bented alittle but was ok before changing to bh, both paddles are aligned, my flybar's good adn centered, adn i have only 1 head dampening shim on either side to eliminate lateral play. but once i increase the head speed, it seems fine.

any help on why the heli would surge up adn down sometimes with little or no throttle/collective imputs?

thx

Well since the BellHiller is so much more responsive than stock then Im guessing that slight bend in your shaft is whats causing problems.Especially the fact that it was OK before you added the BH. Since the BH tightens up the cyclic response it only makes sense that it wobbles more. Less slop. Id consider changing that shaft. Even if its not the problem at least youll have a spare on hand. But to me at least it sounds like the shaft

chopperdudes

Replace the M.shaft and while it's apart
change that motor. Reset your pitch and
track the blades again. i think you'll be glad
you did.

Bob

dignlivn

thx very much, i think i should do that, today's too windy for me to fly outside, so i'll just ripe it apart and do all those things. and oh ya, i didnt notice this before either, that my tail is wagging, not really side to side as if the gain's too much, but rather wagging up and down, ya, i no, its weird, but i'll change the main shaft and motor to see wat happens.

The tail wagging is very likely also from the bent shaft. It could be messing with the elevator causing the tail to look like it's bobbing when actually it's the head. When you reassemble it, put a little light oil [(wd40 if you don't have machine oil)(spray a little in a cup and apply it with a toothpick)] on the shaft at the swash. Put a dab on the hub too to reduce friction on the flybar.

never thought a bent shaft could affect it that much, i'll change it. i wanted to ask if 3 in 1 oil is ok, i do have wd40 but dunno which is better. also, i have a question about changing the main motor, i still dont get why i shoudl change to 9T though. one thing is that it'll burn out my main faster with a 10T, but i'm never going back to the ni-hm batt so i'll have no use for the 10T anyway. so i just thought that a 10T would gimme faster head speed and if i burn it out, i can just put the 9T on. please explain.

hey, i just found something.

quote: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly, pg 16, post 398.
originally from Bdavison.
" got to fly a Blade with the "E-flite" brand bell/hiller upgrade...Hmmm. We had some issues. For some reason the heli developed this gyroscopic wobble. We reduced the pitch a little to get the headspeed up, which did improve it somewhat....but not quite perfect. So far based on what I can tell (ignoring the wobble) is that it flys good. Seems responsive just like the Esky head. I kind of prefer the E-sky head, as the setup is cleaner. I dont care much for the 45 degree angle of the linkages on the e-flite brand one. "

so might this wobble be a flaw in the bh head rather than my main shaft?

The 10T will make your motor work harder and draw more current through your 4in1. The 4in1 may burn out. That's the problem, not burning out a motor.

You don't want positive pitch below 3/8 -7/16 stick with the throttle trim all the way up. The added pitch will slow the head and you'll get the wobble. The 9T does great. I fly mine to just a hair of postive pitch at half stick and throttle trim all the way up. This alows it to hover at mid stick for me. Someone metioned awhile back that your blade grips might be to tight causing the wobble.

hello again. Well i think i got the reverse controls packed down now. I did my third flight today and did some nose in and tail in hovers and some spins and forward flight.

omg, i guess i'm down for a while.
today, i stripped the gears in one of my servo, so i applied power alone to the servo and i was like ya... teeth missing... and then i did the stupidest thing ever, i somehow shorted the servo without knowing it, and then plugged it into the 4 n 1, then these beautiful heaven white mists rosed from the 4 n 1, and now, it wont arm. i know i killed it, no doubt about it. but i got a good deal at my lhs, 89 cnd adn probably could get it to 85. forgot to ask how much a servo would cost. heli's need much more part replacement than cars, i almost changed the whole rotor head + swashplate all becuase of the increasing slop, darn it. i'm only 14 delivering the newspapers making bout 150 a month. having a hard time keeping up the cost.[] oh ya, i got rid of the pair of damining shims in the head and the wobble gone away.

Go Slower and be patient.


Bob

dignlivn


I'm back up for a while I hope ! Got Parts ?

85 bucks for a 4 in 1?? that seems excessive. If you look online at www.greathobbies.com a 4 in1 is only 60 bucks and these guys are awesome. Shipping is fast. I think your LHS is raping you

3-in-1 oil (just a drop) is better because it won't break down as fast, only offered the WD40 as an alternative. Also the lower tooth pinion is to protect the tail motor, not the main. The main is a pretty strong motor, but at higher amp output you'll fry the tail trying to keep up. I use the 8t pinion and have no problems with agility even at the lower rpm (and have yet to lose a tail motor after 10 months). But then again I also upgrded to the GWS 50 motor before I ever flew it. Too bad about your 4-in-1, bet you don't do that again

ya, i no prices online is much better, but i forgot to tell you that i'm not allowed actually to order online.[:'(] big disadvantage. but anyway, great hobbies is sellign them at 89.99, but you still need shipping, check it out. i dont need to be patient caus tomorrow i'm getting a 4 in 1 with a servo, wonder if i can fit it to 100 at my lhs. and oh ya, i was wondering if the 3 in 1 oil your talking about is the same as mine, caus i looked closer and it said 'for 1/4 hp motors and bigger'. dunno if that the 3 in 1 your talking about. and thanks zoo for the motor info. i'll change it to the 9T. and one more thing... i no, you guys are probably saying 'c'mon already!! how many questions do you have!!' but still, i need to ask, cause i have this problem of having to use the tail trim from the leftmost spot (when batt is fullest) to the rightmost spot (when batt is halfway down and lower). i'm using lipo already and it's a 1050 mah 12c con. & 20c burst. so i think even though this does not affect me too much, but still inconvienient caus sometimes the tail trim isn't enough. and i think it's a problem. pleas help

thx[8D]

If I'm reading that right it's Candian dollars, so with the conversion it's about the same price. Ordering won't save any money unless they're actually cheaper after conversion including shipping to Canada.


--

Regarding wobble in the main shaft, it's incredible what a difference it makes. My Blade CP was almost unflyable, I thought I was just REALLY losing my marbles or something, then I replaced the main shaft and it was a whole new ballgame. Basically that wobble is like you swirling the cyclic around in a little circle and jiggling the throttle and rudder a bit at the same time due to the drag/torque changes as it wobbles and presses against things differently.

Chopperdudes,

The problem you are having with the trim is probably due to the fact that you need to adjust the proportional for the tail motor. Use that small flat head and make a slight adjustment, arm the heli and see how it flies. If you still have too much rotation to the left, turn the proportional in small amounts counter clockwise until you get it just right. When you finally have that adjusted to near perfection, kepp in mind that when you are running lower on your battery, your taill will react alot differently. And another thing I would suggest is to heed to Dignlivn's advice and slow down and take baby steps. I have had my heli for about three months and I am still taking it slow. And as most of these guys will attest, taking it slow and learning the basics will save you a bunch of money in the long run. Good luck.

James

srry if i didnt make it clear, if i adjust the proportional at full batt when the trim is centered, i'll run out of right trim as the battery dies down. so all i can do is adjust teh proportional to hold the tail when teh trim is full left so i'll have enough space for teh trim to go right as the batt dies down. and ya, i'll take it slow, i've had well over 100 flights in 1 and a half month. but i cant really fly it so often when classes starts again[:@]. i changed almost every part of my rotor head because of the wear and tear producing slop.

and i would totally agree with you Remyrw, teh shaft does make a big difference, i changed it and it was better than new. adn ya, i check out the prices of US dollars and converted it to CND, and not much of a difference after shipping and all that. (alittle if you buy alot of parts in one order)

i was wondering wat a 2 in 1 includes? i know it doesnt include the gyro, so i can have a hh on it, but does it really make that much of a difference?

Personally, I think getting another 4 in 1 is a waste of cash when you consider you can buy a 3 in 1 AND reciever for only 90 bucks. Throw a BH head on there and use lipos and you have yourself a CP Pro.

Unless you plan on flying aerobatics then you can use your own transmitter.Only difference in the transmitters is the knobs on top that control pitch curves in idle up mode.

AND you can now add a brushless motor and headlocking gyro plug and play. No fuss no muss just plug them in and youve got 1 bad*** machine.

Im actually going to the 3 in 1 setup in a couple weeks and going brushless. My Bday so everyones getting a list of parts lol
Now I know some guys will say why not just buy a CP Pro and sell your CP. Well, try find someone who will give you what you want for your CP now that the Pro is so cheap. Youll lose money for sure.
Of course this is all my own oppinion.

I just took the head assembly on my stock BCP apart for the first time. There are no O-rings on the spindle, as shown in the exploded view, and indicated in several of the repair post. Seems like it flew ok w/ out them. If I install them, what should I expect?

I'm just learning to hover. Will damping the head (assuming that's the function of the O-rings) make it more or less stable?

This is perfectly normal with any motor driven tail heli... It is even mentioned in the manual that comes with the BCP.

This is one of the reasons that motor driven tails are considered 'cheap'...

The only way to 'fix' it is to go to belt or shaft drive tail...

No O-rings? Are you sure??? I would think that a BCP that is missing the O-rings in the head would be practically un-flyable!

The O-rings should be pressed down inside the main hub.

If the head dampening is too loose, it causes problems. One of which is that the blade tracking will not be consistent throughout the power band.

CT

my mistake, yes the o-rings were pressed into the hub. I thought they would be visible on the spindle. like I said, my first dissasembly.

regards,

if you can pull the spindle out withough pulling the o rings out, i'd consider your o rings are pretty much wored out and better to get some new ones, just my opinion though because whenever i disassemble the head, one of the o rings will come out of the main hub on the spindle.