i have a walkera #4 which i started to learn on and wrecked. my new blade was just sitting there to be flown until i learned to fly. after wrecking the other day i decided to pull out the blade and it is sooo easy to fly. my question is is there some type of voltage cutoff for lipos to put on the blade. i purchased two of them and its flys alot easier with less weight. sorry for the newbie question...

[][][&o][&o]

Anybody??????

Steve -

The Carbon Fiber blades have a symmetrical airfoil just like the wooden blades included with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit (EFLH1168). Symmetrical blades (CF or wood) can only be flown using the main motor with 9T pinion and 3S LiPo packs (with heat sinks on both the main and tail motors).

The stock setup can only be flown with flat bottom blades...this set up has been optimaly performance matched just as it comes out of the box. Currently, only wooden flat bottom blades are available. As a note, CF blades are not neccessarily more durable - in fact, for those pilots who may still be crashing more often than they like, it is not recommended that you use CF blades.

More info on the recommended set ups and other performance enhancement tips for the BCP can be found here:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...rodID=EFLH1100

bdavison -

By the way, thats me flying the BCP in the videos on our site To be honest, I never crashed the model trying to get it inverted the first few times. I learned to "roll" into inverted on my larger machines many years ago and that is still my prefferred entry for helicopter models of all types and sizes.

That said, a Bell Mixer Upgrade Kit (EFLH1170) will be available soon that allows you to upgrade from hiller-only control to bell-hiller control for MUCH more aggressive cyclic response. I can do stationary flips, forward/backward or rolling, a few feet off the ground with complete confidence flying a BCP that is equipped with an Aerobatic Enahancement Kit, Bell Mixer Upgrade Kit and 3S 860-1320mAh LiPo packs. The difference in cyclic response is incredible when compared to stock - I can honestly say that with the Bell Mixer Upgrade Kit installed the BCP is about as "3D" as it could ever be

The Bell Mixer Upgrade Kit will sell for less than $25 most places and includes a new set of blade grips with 3 ball bearings installed in each (along with 4 total step washers, same as the newly updated EFLH1162B BCP grip design, to eliminate any "sticky collective" caused by the washer/spare arrangement), bell mixer arms, spindle and complete hardware. Because all the components are pre-assembled (all bearings/spacers in grips, mixing arms installed on grips, all installed on the spindle) you can simply remove one of your "old" grips, slide out the other grip and spindle and have the new grips/spindle installed in minutes. No modifications or adjustments are neccessary and you simply snap the included pushrod links onto the 2 open balls on the swash and fly! Head Dampening Shims are also included for "fine tuning" the amount of dampening in the head to just the way you like.

Along with the Bell Mixer Upgrade Kit we will also soon be offering spare "Bell" grips (EFLH1171) and mixing arms (EFLH1172), Head Dampening Shims (EFLH1144), a Carbon Fiber Tail Rotor Blade (EFLH1122C), and Aluminum Swashplate (EFLH1175). These are all new items and will be on display at the iHobby Expo next week. I and Ron Osinski will also be flying these new option parts on our demo/World Micro Helicopter Cup contest models, and the parts will be available in shops in November. Photos of these parts can also be found on HorizonHobby.com next week.

As an additional note - we will also be flying the new Blade CX heli in our booth and during various demos at iHobby next week...even if youre an experienced pilot already, the BCX is truly the ultimate indoor micro heli and is a blast to fly allowing you to sharpen your skills like nose in hovering, backward flight and more when its too cold or windy to fly outside. Not to mention it just looks too darn cool not to have one to sit next to your BCP when theyre not flying

Wow great news on all fronts... I have been an RC plane pilot for over 20 years. But I just got the micro-heli buzz in last six months, the fixed pitch was ok but you guys have done an awesome job with the blade! I look forward to the upgrades. Guess my train of thought has always been get better, then upgrade, get even better then upgrade some more LOL. Guess that's a win win for both of us huh.

One Question, I already have several lipo's laying around so that’s not an issue, but I also have a 2100 3s1p weighs in about 5.5oz could I use that or should I stick with an e-tec 1200 3s1p that weighs in about 3.5oz that I have? I am not sure how weight sensitive the blade is, but seems to me logically that extra 2oz might make to motor work harder and generate more wear to the motor of course on the other thought the 2100 would give me amazinglly long flights.

Jason,

Thanks for the info on the blades, it makes sense to me now.

I picked up a 3BB blade holder set a while ago, but could not figure out how to make it fit. Is there an exploded parts diagram showing where the washers all go? Thanks in advance for any pointers. I have modified my 2BB holders as suggested but still get a little sticking at times. Out of the box, I could not get off the ground without 100% throttle. Swapping the washers on the blade holders fixed most of my problem.

Most of my problems with the wooden blades have been very minor strikes on the ground or with small branches while in the air (too many trees). The CF blades had no problem with these strikes but the Balsa ones just fall apart. I know the answer to this problem is to not fly into things!

Steve

Thanks for the info.

I cant wait for the bell-hiller system to come out. Im sure it will VASTLY improve the helicopters responsiveness.
Ill definatly be upgrading mine. Ive already got the 3BB grips on there.

I think I might add one of those BladeCX's to the collection too. Its a pretty cool looking little heli. It would be nice for zooming around the living room.

WOW this sounds really awesome Jason. I'm sure Eflite had absolutely NO IDEA what they were going to really cause with the release of the Blade CP. The success of this little heli is just phenominal. I'm starting to ditch my original thought of getting a T-Rex to upgrade from this little machine because of all the incredible support and new upcoming parts!

Question for ya though, although I'm sure you've heard it before: is there going to be some way for users to go brushless with their Blade CP's? I'm not necessarily advocating a "brushless 4-in-1 upgrade kit", in fact I would be content just to have a specialized brushed tail motor controller that got power off of the main battery somehow (maybe a pass-through connector that also connects the main motor speed controller to the battery as well) and some sort of interface that allows a gyro to be used, similar to what's already in place on the 2-in-1 unit.

Would you have any suggestions on going brushless? The main issue for me (I've already swapped out the radio system for a JR 6102 and RS6UL setup and a 2-in-1 for the motors) is not a problem with the main motor brushless setup, but with the tail motor setup, because I don't know how one would use two different speed controls and have them mixed in such a way that a gyro could be used for the tail motor controller and that they would still mix. Maybe the easiest way is to just use a 2-in-1 controller for the tail, leave the main motor unplugged and splice the battery connection with a brushless main motor controller and they would both go to the battery like that.

I had a crash last night but it wasn't quite as bad. I just finished dialing it in and it was flying pefectly. I picked it up and accidentally hit the "Idle Up" switch on the radio. It flew out of my hand and hit the ground HARD. Luckily the battery disconnected before any major damage was done. I lost both blades and the canopy was cracked by a blade at some point. I wish I could disable that switch until I'm ready to use it!

Anyway, as far as the painting the canopy - I just painted it with standard Tamiya model spray paint then added the "carbon fiber" flames. It took almost an entire can to completely cover the yellow though. Does anyone know where to get a replacement canopy? Maybe even a clear one?

gryphix:

Go to Horizon Hobby and search for EFLH1157 and it is $11.39. I don't know if there are any clear ones out there.

On page 37 post 922 I posted a diagram of how the new 3bb blade grips should be installed.


If you are in normal mode this will happen because the rpm's control your altitude, when you change the RPMs you change the torqe of the heli, for example, when you go to power up you increase RPMs and increase torque, when you decrease power you decrease torque. If you are in idle up mode this will not happen. In idle up mode you RPM's are relatively the same, when you change altitude the blade angles are changed and not the RPMs. Does that make sense?

AHA! I've found the answer to my brushless question. Helihobby has a great article listed here. It's something to consider over the next couple weeks, would sure be a fun setup. That, coupled with the Hiller components, maybe even the aluminum swashplate, aluminum main frame and dual tail motors would make this heli really kick butt. So much for staying stock....

[quote][/another bad habit I think I am getting, correct me if I am wrong, but I am getting a habit of controlling collective along with the tail rotor speed change. that is when I put the nose right, more power to tail ,heli will fall, a little correction with more collective. nose to the. left less power to the tail. correction with less collective. I am thinking this learning curve will be of no effect with a belt driven tail. or will lipos even out the current draw a little? I can see myself with a gas heli turning to the right and smashing it into the ground. quote]
dalolyn
Whether the tail is driven directly from main or by its own motor, changes in collective will increase or decrease torque causing yaw. Your automatic input just replacing what the mix on a computer radio would have to add. Sounds like that 'computer' in your head is working well!

Jason
Maybe its just me, but my bcp flew well with the cf blades and the 10t/nimh combo. Lipo came friday but wind gusts have been crazy so I haven't been able to try that out yet.
Mark

Hi guys can you answere me a question

I have Esky honeybee e004 which i have been using as a pracctise heli,Is it possible to upgrade to brushless motor if so what size do i need.Also which batteries are good for this heli to give me a longer flight time.Any ideas would be helpful.

cheers for any help.

My suggestion to anyone that wants to go brushless don't. But if you really want a brushless blade then purchase the basic kit for 99.00 and start for there.

You see to go brushless means a whole set of new componets the 4in1 is for a brushed motor setup and simply will not work for a brush less setup.

I did some research on this and it you are looking at a pretty big investiment to do it...

Let me give you a little breakdown in the parts cost...

You will need a seperate heading gyro best price I found was around 50.00 for a little GWS one probably not the best one but it would work, a good one will run 100.00
You will need a 6 channel RX GWS has one for around 30.00
You will need a Brushless motor that will run in the 50-70 range.
You will need a Brushless speed controller that will run you about 60.00
You will need a brushed speed controller for the tail motor that will run you about 25.00
You will need a lipo battery that will run you about 50.00
You will need a 6 channel computer heli TX that will run you about 150.00
You will need 3 BB micro servos that will run you about 60.00

So you are looking at about 575.00 and thats on the low end, not including things like lipo charger etc. And all that said you could even spend a lot more then that on high end stuff.


Yea it's funny how a quick it adds up, the one postive is if you went this route you could upgrade to say a T-Rex and reuse a lot of the componets. Myself the blade flys great with a brushed setup and at 10.00 a pop for a motor who cares if you have to replace one and from what I have been reading there are guys with hundreds of flights still using the same orginal brushed motor.

The only thing I wish is that someone would come out with a carbon fiber flat blade for it, because for me I like how stable and easy it is to fly with the flat blades but I would like a little better grade blade then the balsa one that comes with it.

Hope this helps

hi mate

your right that all makes sence now, what other brushed motors are avalible for this little heli and what batteries do you reconmend to up my flight time

cheers

Well depends on what you want to do... For just hovering and simple forward flight with the flat blades, I would suggest going to a 1000-1200 3s1p lipo pack and 8t 370 motor, which the motor eflite sells for 10.00 that's what I am running and I am getting 25 minute flight times. The heli is nice stable with this setup, I think that head speed with the flat blades seems to really make a sweet spot for hovering...

Now for more aerobatic flight I would suggest the 9t 370 motor and the same lipo with a the semi-blades... I really dont care for the semi blades so far, just seems to make the heli less stable for a hover as I am basicaly a newbee to micro-heli's I have about 6 months experance on these micros and a lot less on then that on the blade.

But that said I have tried all these setups on my blade stock battery with flat blades, enhancement kit with the 9t motor lipo's and semi blades, 9t motor and flat blades, 8t motor and semi blades and the one I am running now which is a 8t motor, flat blades and lipo's which to me is the best for me right now. I get great flight times and she really stable of course I also have the gain turned up on the gyro as well. I think it's all in you skill level and what you want to do with the heli. Myself I just enjoy slow flight and long hovers for right now.

Oh here is some photo's of my current setup while i was charging my lipo's as well....

ELECTRON,
THE CONVERSION TO BRUSHLESS IS EXPENSIVE AND I HAD MOST OF THE ITEMS ON HAND AS I FLY FIXED WING FUEL & ELECTRIC SO TO GO TO IT FROM SCRATCH WOULD BE A BIG HIT TO THE POCKET.
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE GWS PG 03 GYRO IS A HEAD HOLD GYRO?

Is it me or does the blade constantly need input for a stable hover. Once I get settled into a hover it still is withen a three foot circle. I cannot get it to hover "still" but for only a second. I would suppose its size has a lot to do with this. as with my experance with airplanes the med. to big sizes make for a better trainer. although there are a lot of small electrics out there their flight peformance does not compare with a .40 to .60 size. is this true with helis also?

Yea me too, as I fly just about anything RC... Gas, glow, electric.. Which you are right it would cut the cost down for me as well since I have about everything but the gyro and a heli radio. I have a futaba 9C but its for fixed wing. If it were not for that I would have probably went the 99.00 and a good gyro for hundred bucks and used all my on hand stuff to do it and still been in the 200 range. As far as the GWS I am not really sure if it is or not... I think the PG01T is but the PG03 is not..... of course one is 99 the other is 50.

It does take a lot of tinkering and trimming to get really soild hover, of course we are talking a heli which is by nature a ball on flat table.

ELECTRON, THE 9C IS ALSO A HELI RADIO... LOOK AT YOUR MANUAL STARTING WITH PAGE 73. BDAVISON IS GOING TO DO A REPORT TO US ON ALL THE SETTINGS AS SOON AS HE GETS THEM ALL WORKED OUT. I HAVE IT ALMOST DONE EXCEPT FOR PROBLEMS I HAVE WITH THE GYRO. KEEP POSTED.....

Well the more I think about going brushless now the uglier it looks. I'm just going to get the aluminum frame, a new 2-in-1 and a second tail motor and call it a day.

A guy with no heli experience walked into the hobby shop I worked with, he brought in a T-Rex he bought new off of Helihobby, they assembled the whole thing for him and he also bought a Hitec Eclipse 7, and he wanted some help on final setup. The first thing I thought was "whoa...this guy has NO IDEA what he's getting in to". It cost him about $1000. Anyways this was my first opportunity to really look at a T-rex. Granted, it was not the CCPM version I am looking to buy (a shame too he shoulda gotten that version considering all the high-cost components on it), but I must say it is quite an impressive little machine. It looks much simpler than I had originally thought (although looks can be deceiving...) but it was an interesting experience. And that Hitec Eclipse 7 was a whole different world. I looked at the thing and saw more switches, buttons and levers than any Frankenstein movie....

Anyways to get to the point, after getting his receiver mounted and his crystal in place and trying to see how to set the Spectra module to channel 57 (no luck, the manual didn't even mention it in the contents) I told him to check out a dedicated heli dealer an hour or so away and that was that.

And then I thought about how complex it would be to make a Blade brushless. It's not worth it. I'm going to save my money and get a T-Rex and get the most out of brushless power.

i know some people were talking about shaving the tail rotor to make it smaller. well i tried using a tail rotor from a helimax rotofly, and this seems to work well. it's not too much smaller but small enough to make a difference. and until the new CF tail comes out this is what i will be using. have made 4 flights with this tail rotor and it seems to stick well, even during FFF with no tail stabilizers. with the stabilizers i would like to assume that this would be a stable setup. And yes a brushless setup is kind of silly on this heli, why not move up in size if you are going this route. if you are ready for that type of performance then you are ready for a bigger heli. but i will be buying the new upgrades as soon as they come out. our store already has them on order, so the day they come out they will be on my heli.

This question is for Jason. On the aluminum swashplate, are the ball links shortened any to increase sensitivity, or is it just the same as the stock but just upgraded to aluminum?

Really someone else mentioned that to me as well, that there is program in the 9C radio for heli settings. I looked around through the menus and didn't see one but I sure would like to hear more about that, as that would be really AWESOME if there is.