E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
02-03-2006 | 05:12 PM
#2076
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
I am going to put it back to stock and see if I have the same problem. The only thing i have done to it is add the heatsinks swashplate and turn the control link 1 full turn.
I am going to put it back to stock and see if I have the same problem. The only thing i have done to it is add the heatsinks swashplate and turn the control link 1 full turn.
The links look OK but it seems very small travel for end to end stick to me. I think I would try adjusting the flybar links about 3 turns longer (just remember where you had them so you can return) and see what you get. Do the same with the swash links. Experiment and see what you get. I was wondering about the Ail,Ele,Thr, and Rud switches because if you had accidentally hit one and reversed it may reduce the apparent travel on the links.
Good luck!
02-03-2006 | 06:04 PM
#2078
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: hutto,
TX
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
[quote} It's fully possible there's something wrong with the 4-in-1 or TX. Another thing to check would be the antenna wire. How is it wrapped, rewrap it and see if that helps. I put it inside an antenna tube so it can't contact any CF. Next step would be a call to Horizon.
[quote} It's fully possible there's something wrong with the 4-in-1 or TX. Another thing to check would be the antenna wire. How is it wrapped, rewrap it and see if that helps. I put it inside an antenna tube so it can't contact any CF. Next step would be a call to Horizon.
Thanks zooland, I called horizon-the dude doesen't know much-thinks it is mechanics-I don't think that's the cause but will doublecheck. Antenna is in original location, will reroute with tube that I have. I do get glitches indoors only in nose-in hovers which i guess is caused by the way I'm pointng my transmitter antenna. I was afraid it was issue with tx or rx. I will try disengaging motor from main gear so i can run it without spinning the blades and if determine if blade pitch changes without changing throttle. Will that be hard on the motor-running with no load? How do you get Horizon to replace parts-do you raise hell with them?
02-03-2006 | 06:14 PM
#2079
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
I gave the pitch controll on the fly bar 3 half turns and we have lift off. I think i am going to give it another 1/2 turn and it should be about normal.
Although now i need to redo my rudder mixing since it is going nose right took 3/4 trim to keep it stright.
Although now i need to redo my rudder mixing since it is going nose right took 3/4 trim to keep it stright.
02-03-2006 | 06:22 PM
#2080
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
duaneh1,
I think he meant disconnect the power connector to the motor so it does not power the rotor- I would not run the motor without a load! Just unplug the motor power connector before powering up. The servos will still operate and you should be able to see what you need. I would personally suspect the blade to flybar ball links are binding on the balls- perhaps you should check how tight they are and remedey by squeezing slightly with pliers (with link still on ball, squeeze with needlenose pliers on the sides of the plastic link slightly- they flex and will deform slightly producing a looser connection- which is a good thing).
I think he meant disconnect the power connector to the motor so it does not power the rotor- I would not run the motor without a load! Just unplug the motor power connector before powering up. The servos will still operate and you should be able to see what you need. I would personally suspect the blade to flybar ball links are binding on the balls- perhaps you should check how tight they are and remedey by squeezing slightly with pliers (with link still on ball, squeeze with needlenose pliers on the sides of the plastic link slightly- they flex and will deform slightly producing a looser connection- which is a good thing).
02-03-2006 | 06:52 PM
#2081
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Cape Canaveral,
FL
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
It looks to me like NONE of your servos are moving. The arms appear to be in the same position in every picture. Is the helicopter battery plugged in?
02-03-2006 | 10:56 PM
#2082
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
I gave the pitch controll on the fly bar 3 half turns and we have lift off. I think i am going to give it another 1/2 turn and it should be about normal.
Although now i need to redo my rudder mixing since it is going nose right took 3/4 trim to keep it stright.
I gave the pitch controll on the fly bar 3 half turns and we have lift off. I think i am going to give it another 1/2 turn and it should be about normal.
Although now i need to redo my rudder mixing since it is going nose right took 3/4 trim to keep it stright.
02-03-2006 | 11:18 PM
#2083
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Raleigh,
NC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Well, a few weeks ago I splattered my BCP, while doing a roll. It rolled over inverted, I pulled negative pitch when inverted and BAM, the rotor blades stopped and it fell from over 100' up. Major damage. But, hey, it was fun!!!
Anyway, I added up the cost of the parts to fix it, and started looking at different options. I ended up buying a HoneyBee CP2 bare-bones kit, from HeliDirect. Less than $80 shipped to my door, including motors. It comes with what I believe to be a Bell-Hiller head, aerobatic blades, 9 tooth pinion on the motor, Lipo ready. Took about an hour to move the electronics from my BCP to the HB CP2 and to adjust the linkages (by eyeball!).
I did not have a Lipo ready yet (have to put the right connector on) so I just used my old NiMh battery from the BCP. Took it outdoors to try it out, and it immediately flew better than the BCP. It flew well enough that I tried it later inside my living room and I had no problem hovering in place.
So, if you are thinking about buying the aerobatic upgrade and a Bell-Hiller head, you might consider buying the HB CP2 bare-bones kit instead, will save a lot of time. I may buy the aluminum swashplate now, if it makes it fly any better than it does now it will be awesome!
[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=599[/link]
Anyway, I added up the cost of the parts to fix it, and started looking at different options. I ended up buying a HoneyBee CP2 bare-bones kit, from HeliDirect. Less than $80 shipped to my door, including motors. It comes with what I believe to be a Bell-Hiller head, aerobatic blades, 9 tooth pinion on the motor, Lipo ready. Took about an hour to move the electronics from my BCP to the HB CP2 and to adjust the linkages (by eyeball!).
I did not have a Lipo ready yet (have to put the right connector on) so I just used my old NiMh battery from the BCP. Took it outdoors to try it out, and it immediately flew better than the BCP. It flew well enough that I tried it later inside my living room and I had no problem hovering in place.
So, if you are thinking about buying the aerobatic upgrade and a Bell-Hiller head, you might consider buying the HB CP2 bare-bones kit instead, will save a lot of time. I may buy the aluminum swashplate now, if it makes it fly any better than it does now it will be awesome!
[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=599[/link]
02-03-2006 | 11:43 PM
#2084
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Huntsville, AL
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
I absolutely love my CP. I took my eye off the other day while flying and burned it into the ground at a high rate of speed! So, I went to the hobby shop, bought a whole new airframe. Now I have problems. I just cant seem to be able to get it rigged correctly. From the servos to the swashplate. The blades are the easy part as far as tracking. Anyone have a trick, tool, or something to help me out? I am having with-drawls. Please help.
02-04-2006 | 02:27 AM
#2085
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: union city,
CA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
is there an upgrade for the tail motor? mine seems to be on it's last leg and i wanted to fit it with something better if possible. also, is the dual tail motor setup or direct drive tail motor any good?
are there any absolute must-haves for this heli? it's my first heli and from doing my research, i could see how it could get expensive with the various aftermarket parts (and i hope they all aren't necessary). my intentions for the heli is to be able to fly it outdoors easier than with the stock setup.
hope this is not too much of a repost of a similar topic, i got into this thread at page 82 and the search didn't come up with much.
your help is much appreciated. thanks.
are there any absolute must-haves for this heli? it's my first heli and from doing my research, i could see how it could get expensive with the various aftermarket parts (and i hope they all aren't necessary). my intentions for the heli is to be able to fly it outdoors easier than with the stock setup.
hope this is not too much of a repost of a similar topic, i got into this thread at page 82 and the search didn't come up with much.
your help is much appreciated. thanks.
02-04-2006 | 03:44 AM
#2086
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
I'm glad to hear you can at least get off the ground, but still curious about the limited movement. In idle up, mine nearly touches the lock ring at full throttle and actually pushes the head to the limit on negative. Close to 1/2" travel end to end. I don't see 1/4" on yours. In normal mode are you now at zero pitch with no throttle? I'd guess you're about 5 degrees, which is what it takes to lift off. Then when the head speed gets high enough you get lift. Hopefully I'm wrong, if not your 4-in-1 is not sending the right signals to your servos.
I'm glad to hear you can at least get off the ground, but still curious about the limited movement. In idle up, mine nearly touches the lock ring at full throttle and actually pushes the head to the limit on negative. Close to 1/2" travel end to end. I don't see 1/4" on yours. In normal mode are you now at zero pitch with no throttle? I'd guess you're about 5 degrees, which is what it takes to lift off. Then when the head speed gets high enough you get lift. Hopefully I'm wrong, if not your 4-in-1 is not sending the right signals to your servos.
I will take pics of the horn throws tomorrow. Had to charge it so I left it alone and did some work on my Nascar 4.5" slotcar , we have our first race tomorrow so spent alot of time at the track tonight which is also the LHS where i bought my BCP from. I do have to admit i think i bit off more than i can chew with the BCP ( just dont tell my wife i said that !! ) . I really wanted something that i could fly around causaly around the yard with . I just didnt want something that i would completly out ground and become bored with which seem it would be the case with some of these counter rot blade copters out there. I suppose it will just take time but i still have not even thought of doing a 360 nose turn yet. All in time as they say.
02-04-2006 | 08:08 AM
#2087
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Concord,
NC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
I am having to replace the frame on my Blade CP. My question is about mounting the servos to the new frame. It looks like the old one uses the thin double sided tape. How about foam tape? Is that too flexible for mounting the servos? I have also seen somewhere about using a hot glue gun? Anybody have any luck with that?
Thanks in advace guys!
Thanks in advace guys!
02-04-2006 | 08:21 AM
#2088
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
beachman,
Try this link:
www.bladecprepair.com is an excellent site for what ails you :0)
Good luck!
Try this link:
www.bladecprepair.com is an excellent site for what ails you :0)
Good luck!
02-04-2006 | 08:24 AM
#2089
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
motorsports,
I use double-sided foam tape that comes on a roll from local walmart. The partiicular brand I chose was "Duck" and is about 19mm wide x 2mm thick and works fine - just make sure you add tie wraps to strap all servos in.
Cheers
I use double-sided foam tape that comes on a roll from local walmart. The partiicular brand I chose was "Duck" and is about 19mm wide x 2mm thick and works fine - just make sure you add tie wraps to strap all servos in.
Cheers
02-04-2006 | 10:59 AM
#2090
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: toprudder
Well, a few weeks ago I splattered my BCP, while doing a roll. It rolled over inverted, I pulled negative pitch when inverted and BAM, the rotor blades stopped and it fell from over 100' up. Major damage. But, hey, it was fun!!!
Anyway, I added up the cost of the parts to fix it, and started looking at different options. I ended up buying a HoneyBee CP2 bare-bones kit, from HeliDirect. Less than $80 shipped to my door, including motors. It comes with what I believe to be a Bell-Hiller head, aerobatic blades, 9 tooth pinion on the motor, Lipo ready. Took about an hour to move the electronics from my BCP to the HB CP2 and to adjust the linkages (by eyeball!).
I did not have a Lipo ready yet (have to put the right connector on) so I just used my old NiMh battery from the BCP. Took it outdoors to try it out, and it immediately flew better than the BCP. It flew well enough that I tried it later inside my living room and I had no problem hovering in place.
So, if you are thinking about buying the aerobatic upgrade and a Bell-Hiller head, you might consider buying the HB CP2 bare-bones kit instead, will save a lot of time. I may buy the aluminum swashplate now, if it makes it fly any better than it does now it will be awesome!
[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=599[/link]
Well, a few weeks ago I splattered my BCP, while doing a roll. It rolled over inverted, I pulled negative pitch when inverted and BAM, the rotor blades stopped and it fell from over 100' up. Major damage. But, hey, it was fun!!!
Anyway, I added up the cost of the parts to fix it, and started looking at different options. I ended up buying a HoneyBee CP2 bare-bones kit, from HeliDirect. Less than $80 shipped to my door, including motors. It comes with what I believe to be a Bell-Hiller head, aerobatic blades, 9 tooth pinion on the motor, Lipo ready. Took about an hour to move the electronics from my BCP to the HB CP2 and to adjust the linkages (by eyeball!).
I did not have a Lipo ready yet (have to put the right connector on) so I just used my old NiMh battery from the BCP. Took it outdoors to try it out, and it immediately flew better than the BCP. It flew well enough that I tried it later inside my living room and I had no problem hovering in place.
So, if you are thinking about buying the aerobatic upgrade and a Bell-Hiller head, you might consider buying the HB CP2 bare-bones kit instead, will save a lot of time. I may buy the aluminum swashplate now, if it makes it fly any better than it does now it will be awesome!
[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=599[/link]
02-04-2006 | 12:15 PM
#2091
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Huntsville, AL
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Thanks for the assistance! Off to the hardware store for me.
Two more questions.
1. Has anyone had trouble with the mainframe breaking in the aft section where the landing gear goes into? I have broke this two times at the same location. Is there a mod to help strengthing this area?
2. I have the alum swashplate upgrade. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this upgrade? Should I wait to install when the rest of the alum head parts come in? Do I need to upgrade to Lipos, I am running stock batteries?
Thank you,
Two more questions.
1. Has anyone had trouble with the mainframe breaking in the aft section where the landing gear goes into? I have broke this two times at the same location. Is there a mod to help strengthing this area?
2. I have the alum swashplate upgrade. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this upgrade? Should I wait to install when the rest of the alum head parts come in? Do I need to upgrade to Lipos, I am running stock batteries?
Thank you,
02-04-2006 | 12:22 PM
#2092
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
beachman,
I did have the failing frame problem so tried this: wrap carbon fiber fishline ("steelwire" I think is the brand) in a figure 8 pattern around the 2 rear strut sockets about 75 turns or so- then CA in place. That lasted a long time - but I fly in a grassy area so I opted for the Helidirect landing gear mod ( a little heavy but worth it) for about $12 which really soldified the frame (it screws in those strut holes at 4 points) and made the gear more flexible -works for me :0)
I did have the failing frame problem so tried this: wrap carbon fiber fishline ("steelwire" I think is the brand) in a figure 8 pattern around the 2 rear strut sockets about 75 turns or so- then CA in place. That lasted a long time - but I fly in a grassy area so I opted for the Helidirect landing gear mod ( a little heavy but worth it) for about $12 which really soldified the frame (it screws in those strut holes at 4 points) and made the gear more flexible -works for me :0)
02-04-2006 | 02:58 PM
#2093
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Huntsville, AL
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Thanks for the help again. I am making my swashplate leveler now, and the blade balancer from the site you sent me to before. You are priceless.
Thank you,
Thank you,
02-04-2006 | 04:50 PM
#2094
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Raleigh,
NC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
Does the cp2 come with the removeable main shaft? The one you pull a shear pin from the bottom instead of having to dismantle the entire frame to replace the shaft?
Does the cp2 come with the removeable main shaft? The one you pull a shear pin from the bottom instead of having to dismantle the entire frame to replace the shaft?
02-04-2006 | 06:05 PM
#2095
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: SCOTIA,
NY
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
My understanding is that with the collective stick and trim at center position the idle up switch should not effect collective. On my heli the pitch goes negative when I "idle up". Do i lenghten or shorten the pitch control link? Thanks.
02-04-2006 | 06:18 PM
#2096
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: Lammy1000
My understanding is that with the collective stick and trim at center position the idle up switch should not effect collective. On my heli the pitch goes negative when I "idle up". Do i lenghten or shorten the pitch control link? Thanks.
My understanding is that with the collective stick and trim at center position the idle up switch should not effect collective. On my heli the pitch goes negative when I "idle up". Do i lenghten or shorten the pitch control link? Thanks.
02-05-2006 | 11:57 AM
#2098
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Bruceton Mills,
WV
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Recently purchased a Blade CP and love it. I have suddenly noticed however GREAT vibration whenever I run it up to about 50%. I put new blades on to no avail. I took off the blades and ran it up to full throttle to see if the main shaft was wobbling but it wasn’t. It seems to only happen when the blades are in place. There is no play in the head unit. Any suggestions??? Am I forgetting something? It’s so bad I can't even get it off the ground. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
02-05-2006 | 12:13 PM
#2099
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
To all those that did the shim install......did you install 2 or 3 of them AND did you put them in between the o-ring and stepped washer or between the stepped washer and grip?
Thanks!
Thanks!
02-05-2006 | 12:15 PM
#2100
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: T. Defense
Recently purchased a Blade CP and love it. I have suddenly noticed however GREAT vibration whenever I run it up to about 50%. I put new blades on to no avail. I took off the blades and ran it up to full throttle to see if the main shaft was wobbling but it wasn’t. It seems to only happen when the blades are in place. There is no play in the head unit. Any suggestions??? Am I forgetting something? It’s so bad I can't even get it off the ground. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Recently purchased a Blade CP and love it. I have suddenly noticed however GREAT vibration whenever I run it up to about 50%. I put new blades on to no avail. I took off the blades and ran it up to full throttle to see if the main shaft was wobbling but it wasn’t. It seems to only happen when the blades are in place. There is no play in the head unit. Any suggestions??? Am I forgetting something? It’s so bad I can't even get it off the ground. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
