E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#2427
ORIGINAL: hap2bee
Kiski, the constipated look will leave at some point. Then as you start to do tricks, the P-factor will hit. This is when you almost crash and pucker up to the point you are sucking p-gravel up.
Kiski, the constipated look will leave at some point. Then as you start to do tricks, the P-factor will hit. This is when you almost crash and pucker up to the point you are sucking p-gravel up.
#2428
ORIGINAL: Grado
Who has the best price on the Blade CP? Please advise. Thanks
Who has the best price on the Blade CP? Please advise. Thanks
#2429
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Springfield, MO
How do you adjust the blade tracking. I think we use the pitch control links but thats what confuses me. How does adjusting the pitch raise or lower the tips of the blades?
Thanks
Thanks
#2430
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Short link to blade grip. Make longer to bring the blade up, shorter to bring a blade down. Bringing the low blade up will lower the head speed and make the heli more docile. I just answered your private message too... I think it went, let me know. What makes the blade come up is that it grabs more air and up she goes. Only make 1/2 turn adjustments at a time, thats usually all it takes to bring them in line with each other.
#2431
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
Short link to blade grip. Make longer to bring the blade up, shorter to bring a blade down. Bringing the low blade up will lower the head speed and make the heli more docile. I just answered your private message too... I think it went, let me know. What makes the blade come up is that it grabs more air and up she goes. Only make 1/2 turn adjustments at a time, thats usually all it takes to bring them in line with each other.
Short link to blade grip. Make longer to bring the blade up, shorter to bring a blade down. Bringing the low blade up will lower the head speed and make the heli more docile. I just answered your private message too... I think it went, let me know. What makes the blade come up is that it grabs more air and up she goes. Only make 1/2 turn adjustments at a time, thats usually all it takes to bring them in line with each other.
An easy way to determine which blade is low is using a marker, draw too thin lines on th tip of one blade and a thicker single line on the other. Then spin up the blades and you can easily tell which blade is lagging. Make sure you set the tracking at a higher speed because that's where you'll be when flying. I clamp mine to the table across the skids so it can't lift off.
#2433
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
Zooland, you have it backwards there. Pitching the blade down by lenghtening the short link, is giving it more positive pitch, not negetive. This lowers the head speed and brings the blade up cause it grabs more air.
Zooland, you have it backwards there. Pitching the blade down by lenghtening the short link, is giving it more positive pitch, not negetive. This lowers the head speed and brings the blade up cause it grabs more air.
#2435
ORIGINAL: zooland1
when you do something totally ignorant like I just did. I bought new lipos and just happened to put the connectors on backwards. ESC's have a real problem with reversed polarity batteries. They get so mad they spit sparks and smoke and then they throw a real tantrum and refuse to work for you any more. Guess I'll fly planes while I wait for a new 4-in-1. Anybody know if it's possible to use a regular brushed esc in the 4-in-1 to save a few bucks?
when you do something totally ignorant like I just did. I bought new lipos and just happened to put the connectors on backwards. ESC's have a real problem with reversed polarity batteries. They get so mad they spit sparks and smoke and then they throw a real tantrum and refuse to work for you any more. Guess I'll fly planes while I wait for a new 4-in-1. Anybody know if it's possible to use a regular brushed esc in the 4-in-1 to save a few bucks?
#2436
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
I thought thats what you really meant... just thought i'd point it out to you that you said negetive in the other post.
I thought thats what you really meant... just thought i'd point it out to you that you said negetive in the other post.
Had the right idea, just wrong term.
#2437
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Be careful, don't go to high until your confident that it is truely ok. It sounds to me like you got real lucky. I can imagine how quickly you scrambled to disconnect that batt. Good job !!! And we all make mistakes once in a while. I have a good friend who had a LiPo Batt explode due to wrong polarity charging. It was in a bunker though, I won't mention any names. LOL
#2439
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
Be careful, don't go to high until your confident that it is truely ok. It sounds to me like you got real lucky. I can imagine how quickly you scrambled to disconnect that batt. Good job !!! And we all make mistakes once in a while. I have a good friend who had a LiPo Batt explode due to wrong polarity charging. It was in a bunker though, I won't mention any names. LOL
Be careful, don't go to high until your confident that it is truely ok. It sounds to me like you got real lucky. I can imagine how quickly you scrambled to disconnect that batt. Good job !!! And we all make mistakes once in a while. I have a good friend who had a LiPo Batt explode due to wrong polarity charging. It was in a bunker though, I won't mention any names. LOL
#2441
Hey Guys,
I was doing some searching last night and found the following BladeCP heli for Real Flight G3. It's a modified Watt Not. It looks pretty cool. Flies pretty good. It's closer to the Blade than any of the other helis in G3.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4538
Anyway, for those of you with G3, it's pretty fun...
Doug
I was doing some searching last night and found the following BladeCP heli for Real Flight G3. It's a modified Watt Not. It looks pretty cool. Flies pretty good. It's closer to the Blade than any of the other helis in G3.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4538
Anyway, for those of you with G3, it's pretty fun...
Doug
#2443
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
Hi guys,
I read the posts and dream about getting to fly again. I live in Canada, and will only be able
to start flying again in late May, when the snow is gone.
We lose most of our snow about the 3rd week of April, but then it takes about a month just for the fields
to dry up because of the extreme amount of water around, as the ground is still frozen, so the water doesn't
absorb until a few weeks later.
anyway love seeing you guys ( most of you ) can fly year round I guess.
Mark in Canada
I read the posts and dream about getting to fly again. I live in Canada, and will only be able
to start flying again in late May, when the snow is gone.
We lose most of our snow about the 3rd week of April, but then it takes about a month just for the fields
to dry up because of the extreme amount of water around, as the ground is still frozen, so the water doesn't
absorb until a few weeks later.
anyway love seeing you guys ( most of you ) can fly year round I guess.
Mark in Canada
#2445
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
I kooked, but you dont have any pics in your hanger. Wrong place ?
I kooked, but you dont have any pics in your hanger. Wrong place ?
djdavid-can you look at the specs for the G3 model? Maybe we can write one for G2 using the parameters. I can't open a G3 file because of the format, but if I have the specs I can make a model for G2.
#2446
Retract of the previous comment on fixing the ESC in the 4-in-1. It worked fine until I flipped it in idle up and "pop". Back to the drawing board.
#2448
ORIGINAL: Dennis Flora
Thats a bummer.... Now what ???
Thats a bummer.... Now what ???
#2449
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 52
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From: Chehalis,
WA
Okay
Here is the newby question of the day. I was looking on the Thunder Power web site, thinking of ordering the TP1320-3SJ, specs are:
1320 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V), JST connector, 4-pin balancer connector
Rating: 13C (17A) continuous, 20C (27A) burst
Dimension: 34mm x 65mm x 19mm
Weight: 84gm
and the TP910-3S for when the day comes for doing some aerobatics, specs are:
910 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V), 4-pin balancer connector
Rating: 16C (14.5A) continuous,24C (22A) burst
Dimension: 34mm x 66mm x 15mm
Weight: 65 grams
The 1320 has both a JST connector and a 4-pin balancer.
The 910 has just a 4-pin balancer, and apparently no JST connector, and they don't seem to offer a TP910-3SJ.
2 questions, what is the purpose and use of the balancer, and, how do you connect the 910 that has no JST connector?
Thanks,
Kiiski
Here is the newby question of the day. I was looking on the Thunder Power web site, thinking of ordering the TP1320-3SJ, specs are:
1320 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V), JST connector, 4-pin balancer connector
Rating: 13C (17A) continuous, 20C (27A) burst
Dimension: 34mm x 65mm x 19mm
Weight: 84gm
and the TP910-3S for when the day comes for doing some aerobatics, specs are:
910 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V), 4-pin balancer connector
Rating: 16C (14.5A) continuous,24C (22A) burst
Dimension: 34mm x 66mm x 15mm
Weight: 65 grams
The 1320 has both a JST connector and a 4-pin balancer.
The 910 has just a 4-pin balancer, and apparently no JST connector, and they don't seem to offer a TP910-3SJ.
2 questions, what is the purpose and use of the balancer, and, how do you connect the 910 that has no JST connector?
Thanks,
Kiiski


