The Eflite G90 HH gyro is a really great upgrade for the CPP. It's not overkill on the bird and most certainly won't make it harder to fly, if anything it'll make it a LOT easier. You'll never get perfect performance out of a HH gyro on a CPP tho, the fact that it has a dedicated motor for the tail means the gyro has to tell it to spin up & spin down to adjust thrust on the prop whereas the gyro on something like a TREX only has to tell the tail servo to adjust blade pitch. Bottom line tho is that an inexpensive gyro like the G90 is an excellent thing to consider installing on the CPP. Just don't buy anything fancier than that for it, it would be a waste.

not to mention heavier. Yup, upgrading the tx is the most important upgrade, in my opinion. My 9C flies it like a dream!

Looks like will get the g90 then. Is the telebee gyro any good?

Not sure about telebee, only ever used the Eflite G90 & Futaba GY401 gyros... and soon to be proud owner of a Futaba GY611.

Tho today I feel like kicking my CPP. Hex screw on the retaining collar stripped out, went down to the LHS to get a replacement, get home and install it and then one of the servo's dies during initialization as soon as I power it up. Grrrrrrr. Now the LHS is closed, of course.

Thats a bummer, sounds like my luck I cant wait to get the Blade CP Pro tomorrow. I will be transfering my DX7 Radio and AR6100 reciever to it. My Axe will be going on the big E.

Will the Hitec HS-55 servos work in it? I have 3 of them looking for a home.

Nitronuts,

The HS-55 will work on the Pro if your using the DX7. The HS55 servos, turn in the opposite direction than the stock S75's, that the Pro comes with. You can change the direction in one of the menus on the DX7. The HS55 are much better than the S75's, they have zero slop in them, compared to a S75.. You could also use the HS55's with the stock Blade Transmitter, but a wiring modification needs to be done to reverse the direction of the servo motor. When installing the HS55, make sure that the lower tab on the servo is seated properly. I had to trim about 1/8 inch of the bottom of the tab.. Other than that, you'll love 'em.

Dave / Choppersrule
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Choppers, thanks for the heads up!

I just finished hovering two batteries and although I am now much better than when I first got this heli, I find myself putting in a tremendous amount of effort just keeping the yawing to a reasonable minimum.

I'm contemplating the G90 HH gyro, but I see that a lot of people are really recommending a new transmitter instead. How does a better transmitter help? What does that do that the stock transmitter does not?

From what I've experienced with mine and from what I've read in the forums, the most likely causes of poor yaw control would be a bad tail motor or the proportional and gain adjustments on the 3-in-1. I don't think a different transmitter will help much with that, unless some expo on the rudder helps. There could also be a problem with the 3-in-1 itself I suppose.

A different transmitter can help with things like allowing you to use expo to reduce the senstivity of the controls and adjusting throttle and pitch curves.

I can tell you that even a fairly new tail motor can be bad. A hard tail rotor strike killed a new tail motor on mine and made the tail very hard to control. The motor still ran but just wasn't strong enough to control the tail well anymore.

I never had to adjust the proportional and gain on mine when it was new. It worked fine right out of the box, but if I were having trouble with tail control I'd try that.

You should have pretty stable yaw control with the stock setup. Mine had some drift when climbing or descending rapidly, but was easy to compensate for. In a hover it was quite stable but would require small trim adjustments from time to time during a flight. I would make sure everything is ok with the stock setup before doing any upgrades.

I put a G90 on mine and felt that it didn't make a whole lot of difference in tail stability, but then mine was fairly stable to begin with. Then I put a direct drive GWS motor setup on it and that made a big difference. The tail stays straight on fast climbs or descents now. The DD setup and the G90 together are working well for me now. I like being able to adjust the gain right from the transmitter.

Hope this helps.

I need help big timee!!.... I wil ltell you the story:

I went to the hobby-shop and got a new main motor because my old one was toastt, and i also got a 10 tooth car pinion ( only pinions they had ) and i set it up and tried to fly it. This is when somethgin weird hapeneddd..... I was flying, and noticed that it was difficult to just keep it in a hover, and tghe throttle was stoping and goiong quickly in mid flight, and the tail contorl was poor... After a 1 min, i landed, and picked the heli up and put more power on to see if the mainshaft was bent. It wasn't bent, but once i did that, smoke strted coming out of the motor and it smelled like burning plastic, i tried to turn it off, but nothing happened, it kept the throttle in half throttle alothough the stick was at 0. I had to reach my hand under and try to flick the batter off to stop the spinning blades of doom! I dont have a clue why this is happening. Is this car motor to powerful, or is it not ment for that type of use??? should i just buy thr stock motor again? Please help it would be appreciated!!

hrm... that might be real bad... you might have just toasted your 3 in 1. Do you have an idea of how many amps that motor draws?

I would try plugging the tail motor into the main motor spot on the 3 in 1 and see if you can't get that to work properly. If you can, get a new motor and try that out, and if you can't, then your 3 in 1 is probably toast =(

Ok, thank you alot. I've had a lot of 'Problems' with the blade, i want to get the trex but i dont have the money.. lol. Thank you again for your help..!!!

yeah, you're welcome =)

I think we all have. It's a matter of learning with a heli that doesn't have the most rigid construction tied with newbs that don't know that much about heli's to start with. been there done that =P I've had several problems with my heli too, I think it's just part of the game.

a very thirsty Blade mysteriously showed up in my back yard.

hehe =)

you should try to capture the little guy and tame him and maybe teach him a trick or two =)

A CPP I bought 5 months ago, with 45 flights and no crashes. Needed a tune-up; I changed the motors, added carbon blades, synthetic oil on the bearings and new paint. The CPP I have is all stock, except the carbon blades. I never bought a part for this heli, because of part failure , even I can't believe it.

To set the gyro gain for yaw, by visual. On throttle-up, If the tailrotor starts to spin before the mainrotors do, yaw should be decent, will also burn tailmotor up faster. I understand the CPP will crash if the tailmotor goes out 100%. I set my gyro to make the tailmotor to start turning much later then the mainrotors do, makes for a unstable, sluggish, hard but fun to fly heli. Low gyro setting also increases the chace of tailmotor not going out.

Enjoy the images of a rare CPP!!

Pearl

Hey just wanted to throw this info out there, may have been hit previously in this thread, but I wasnt about to read a years worth to find out,lol. For the beginners with the CPP's quick tip to mellow it out so its ten times easier to fly, not as good for the 3D part, but its easily reversed back so no big deal. We all know the weight on the flybar thing, foudn that to help a bit when they are all the way out, but i did find by just moving all the servo links in a hole on the servos to make the CPP so much easier to fly. I am new myself still, and the CPP stock is a serious handful for me. I regretfully sold mine, the buyer was a beginner, it was to be his first, so I tried all this to try to help him out, test fly it a couple times to make sure it wasnt go to be to far out of trim or anything, and found it to be nice and calm (for a light weight 300 collective) but still had its punch just with a little extra move in the stick. Now I am thinking of going out and buying another one in a month or so for a practice heli since now i know how to make it mroe rookie friendly.

Just wanted to throw this info out there. KR-1981, it's peeps like you and your attitude that make the CPP a success. I'm unaware of you heli experience but, u say u flown the CPP before and regret saleing it. Most like to compare the CPP and the Trex 450 and if u ask me, thats not a good thing. Would u compare Mike Tyson and Naseem Hamed, lol. If I was to compare heli's they would at the least have to have the same weight, otherwise u wouldn't be comparing heli's, u would be comparing prices. When I 1st bought the CPP, I also inserted the servo link into a more forgiven hole to make heli more stable, but heli wouldn't even takeoff. I put it back in the original hole and was willing to take the hit, such as accepting a crash. I got lukee, very lukee. I have never crashed a rc heli, RESPECT is all rc heli's need. RADDS school dude says on his very own site that he believes a person can learn to fly rc heli's and never crash, he also says, BELIEVE IT!!!! I'm a clear example that is very true, I had to teach myself, is the only difference. Go outside on a calm day and show that heli who is boss, don't allow it to hit the ground until u make it. I flown the CPP in 15 mph winds, it wasn't pretty, but it was a success.

TY for keeping the CPP alive and goodluk with your future endeavors!!

Pearl

Okay gang,

What kind of lubricant should I use on the CP Pro and on what parts? If yes, how often?

Thanks,

Amir

use teflon impo. I always used teflon where plastic was involved, but i started useing teflon instead of oil on the metal to metal connections and wow, things spin alot better =)

I use dry ice, just because I needed something and it's what the hobby shop had it in stock
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=784

you can also get telfon spray that is more like a wd 40 can at almost any store that sells wd40 too. The main thing with teflon is spray it, let it soak for about 10 sec, and then wipe off all the liquid and it will leave a teflon coated surface.

oh yeah, and there are also temperature constraints as well, but I dunno those off the top of my head.

Teflon is good on plastic like mrasmm says. For bearings, I use synthetic, not 3-1 household oil. Synthetic provides 3 times the protection then 3-1. The difference between synthetic and 3-1 is, night and day. Your manual has all the bearing locations. I usually lube my model after 10 to 15 flights.

Pearl

Thanks mrasmm & Pearl 414...very useful info as usual. I did stop by the local hobby shop today (before I read your replies) to pick up an extra tail motor for the CPP. After reading mrasmm's & other posts, I've decided on a dual tail from Micro Heli. Will post pictures once I receive the parts and install....Anyway, at the hobby shop, I saw the upgrade spectrum module & receiver for a JR 9303, pretty neat little receiver....so since they didn't have a tail motor, I had to buy something[sm=71_71.gif] I'm looking at replacing the stock TX with the 9303, should be a very good change with the ability to have expo.

Blowing about 20 mph yesterday and about 30~40 today, so no flying until things calm down here[>:]

Amir

Okay...I've seen this fellow mad bad radd's name mentioned in a few posts. Where can I find his article on flying?

Amir

Here you go AmirN http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html I never had to use mad Radd's site, but I did look at his site to see what all the hoorah was about.

Corey

Thank you, Pearl.

Amir