choppers,


I knew you would have some tricks up your sleeve. thanks! index mark and vise.....

Choppersrule Here:

Lookyj, was curious about how my bling was going on the CP/PRO. Well, it's going very good. I'm just adding the CNC Rotor Assembly, CNC Grips and CNC Tail Gear box Housing.. Just me.. I don't want to invest to much in this one, cuz, I want to bling out the Trex alot. Just a budget thing...

To All You Fellas:

I know I've mentioned this several times in earlier posts, but that darn CNC Head Assembly, for 20 bucks, has made a WORLD of difference.. I just don't get any hippity-hops up or down any more.. I thought I had the plastic one fined tuned. However, the CNC beats the best you can do with the plastic head by 10 fold. I would highly recommend this on your next venture in your next visit to the LHS or online ordering.

Dave / Choppersrule

I've been muddling through this. I just figured out the dual rates and how to set them. The answer was in front of my face...it took the longest time to see where I was screwing up (AL0/AL1...EL0/EL1). Things should start to move for me now. I'm not really peak right now either...hand is driving me nutso.[:@]

choppers,

I agree the CNC head assembly makes a world of difference! Glad to hear just replacing the center hub makes an improvement.... I went with the entire CNC head assembly from microHeli but pretty costly at $120. I'd be interested to see how much difference there is between replacing just the center hub to CNC at $20 vs the entire head assembly at $120.... hummmm, looks like I got another question I'll have to try and answer.

Wheeeeeeeeeeeee Blade CP CNC!

INSTALLING A HEAT SINK ON THE TAIL MOTOR OF THE CP - was bothering me for a while
Just now figured a very simple solution.
( Everything I considered involved disassembling half the heli, cutting straps, soldering, etc)
The space between the motor casing and the black plastic shaft toward the back only interferes with ONE of the blue "fins" of the heat sink. I took the cutting wheel of the Dremel, cut off about half of the fin and then the heat sink SLIDES onto the motor casing from the top. There is a slight hump of a solder joint to ride over but with care and a micro size pair of tweezers it CAN be forced over that. Slather some white sealer on the casing, slip the blue aluminum over that. I had considered disconnecting the wire from the 4+1 etc etc....SIMPLE is MOAH BETTAH
and that's ALL I AM GOING TO SAY 'BOUT THAAAAT ......Forrest G

Lookyj,

Hmmmm, trial and error and some more $$$$$. As I mentioned, I got the stuff for the CP/Pro, head assembly in, installing the grips tonight and the tail mount in a couple day. Total cost about $60. I'm frugal(cheap).

TIP TO ALL:

When adding several modifications, just do one at a time, test fly and make sure it does what you expect it to do. If you add 2 or 3 at a time, you won't know which one caused your probem. Hopefully no problems.

choppers,

I think you just summed up this whole hobby "trial and error and some more $$$$$"

Dave...I got it. I'm now inputting parameters like a mad dog (it finally clicked).

Hey guys, what LiPo battery do you suggest for the CP? I'm tired of the NiMH dying after 6 to 7 minutes. Any suggestions/links?

Thanks

Jim

Jim, I use the 800Mha 11.1V by Eflite. Pricy...but they're pretty good. You can buy cheaperones at "commonsense R/C". Remember, you need the special charger for Li-Po's and you will have to go through setup again because everything changes when you go to Li-Po's.

Wnuk,

I always post this link, has great information on battery, motor and pinion combanations. I may be wrong, it's been awhile, but I think the CP and NiMH combo, comes with a 10 tooth motor, you may have to get an 8 tooth or 9 tooth, read the link stuff.

A 910 mAh lipo, gives you the best of both worlds, light and long duration. Anything bigger, adds weight. Depends on how you want to fly. Bigger than about 1200 mAh, it won't fit in the stock CP battery tray, to big.

Crashcrash is right, you'll have to get a different charger for lipo's and re-adjust your proportinal and gyro trims. The lipo's have a ton of more ummph.

Here's the amazing link: http://www.hobbyzone.com/articles_ef..._bulletin.html

Just more things to think about and dwell on, and $$$$, but it's fun...

Dave / Choppersrule

Lookyj,

Yep-aroo, $$$. Got lots of $$$ in this hobby. But still less expensive than a big bass boat.

Crashcrah,

Told ya, one step at a time, then wham, it all hits ya.. HEY, go slow, don't get silly with it. S L O W..
I'd guess, you'll be up and moving tomorrow. DON'T Push It...

Dave / Choppersrule

Jim,

I also use the stock Eflite 3c 800 mAh LiPo.... but will probably upgrade to the 910 mAh LiPo's. I've been eyeing the Thunder Power, which gives you a little longer flight time for about $9 more than the Eflite's.

Thanks for the replies guys. I already have a Lipo charger that came with my CX2 and it charges both 2 and 3 cell Lipo's so I am good on that front. I suspected I would have to do setup all over again. I'm waiting on a set of Plasti Blades and will pick up a battery and pinion witha heat sinks for both motors also. Then I will do setup with the new Blades & Lipo together.

I did a 3 minute hover tonight, I'm really liking this! It was a 4ft box, not a two like RADD's suggests but hey, I'm OK with that for now!

What I find odd though is that I still have a slight tip to the right on liftoff. I can catch it no problem but the funny part is my swash plate is not level and actually leaning to the left. Once I get airborne, about 1 ft for now, then it will want to slide to the left. In otherwords, the lateral balance seem to be off. The only thing I can think of that may be causing this is the training gear and the balls on the right side being more toward the ends of the rods than on the left. I adjusted all the balls to be equidistant on both side now & will try again in the morning.

crashcrash, will we get a report on the DX6 tomorrow??!! Just kidding, take your time getting it setup right.

Jim

Choppersrule Here:

Latest piture of bling stuff. Got the Head Assembly in about a week or so ago.

I installed the CNC grips tonight, standard grips, non Bell-Hiller. Did that, because I like to fly indoors alot and find it easier to control the than the Bell-Hiller. That's what I learned on, no Hiller. (Got the Trex for major outdoor stuff)

Holy SMOOTHNESS Batman!

Between the CNC Head Assembly and the CNC Grips, it's like a totally different heli. Wish, I would have thought of this many months ago. I would have save a ton of $$$$, in busted parts. Difference between a Chevy and a Cadillac.

Enough of my yapping on...

See Picture,

Dave / Choppersrule

Status on the DX6 setup. I put all the parameters in and did a no motor check powerup. The blades went heavy neg shift. Knew something wasn't right but the 3-1 did arm and give green light. Did a check with the motors plugged in....what a nightmare. Tail motor overspeeding, nothing is right. I've got a lot of work ahead of me yet but I've got to let the TX charge up. It'll be a couple days before it's even flyable I'm sure. It's a PITA for sure!

Crashcrash,

Sounds like your in the righ direction, just need to find the tweaks that will give you what you need. Blades, heavy negative, go into sub-trims, that should correct that problem. Tail motor overspeeding, make sure gyro settings are off. You may have to readjust the proportional and gyro gain again.

Dave / Choppersrule

Choppersrule Here:

Second flight on the CP, with the CNC Head and CNC Grips. I have never ever, in 8 months had a better better hover and short FF. I'll have the wife take a picture tomorrow in the basement of me hovering. I swear by the CNC Head, and the tracking with the CNC Grips is totally right on. Never better. I know, I sound like an advertisement, but this is how it is, absolutely great!!!!

Dave / Choppersrule

That CNC stuff looks great!

The new airframe was rode hard and put up wet. It couldn't have been flyable in it's last attempts with the previous owner. So far I have replaced the main frame, main shaft and gear, tail boom, tail rotor housing, main blades, fly bar, and tail stand. After I started re-assembling I couldn't decide how to run the servo and motor wires to work and look good. After looking through 42 pages of this thread for pictures, I have decided that you all don't like the right side of the Blade series. I only found one partial shot of the right side with the canopy off. I did power it up and everything seemed to work fine other than the swash plate needing some large adjustments.

I'm off to search for info about the best way to route the antenna, how tight the blade grips should be and how to do the initial setup on the swash plate.

wick,

what details are you looking for? here's a couple shots of a stock Blade CP.... hope this helps!

I also noticed in your pic, the tail motor heat sink should be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise...



edit -

not sure what happened to my last reply, so I'll just add it here.

Thanks lookyj,

I'm just looking for ideas for the cleanest way to route the antenna down to the skid. I have the servo wires routed and tied up. Mostly I'm down to reassembling the rotor head and rigging. I've seen so much about how to set it up but there are almost too many opinions. How high should I adjust the swash plate to? With the motors disconnected, throttle and trim at half the swash plate should be level right? I didn't check the orings in the blade grips but as bad as everything else was I'm a little worried about their condition. I guess if I have problems I can take them apart later.

Edit: thanks for the pics - those are perfect. I'll get some "after" pics up of my wiring and the airframe overall tomorrow. She already looks much better than when I got her. Would be easier and probably not much more money to just buy new ones in the box but I have too much fun rebuilding them. Should have enough parts to start on three more next week. Somewhere in this I should probably learn to fly them.

wick,

I too love building these birds... some great deals on ebay and with a little time and patience you can get a great flying heli for relatively cheap. I have 5 flying helis, 1 ARF Blade CP Pro, and 3 more somewhere in the mail on the way.


yes, choppers definately hooked!!!!

time for some more CNC parts!

sup guys??!! Ok got a question i just installed the bell hiller upgrade last night and the freakin fixed length push rods keep poping off the blade grips and the upper swasplate theres no binding or anything, what would cause this?? also im not running a cnc swashplate would this help??

Check the lolli-pop ends...they might be cracked and not visable to the naked eye. I just got a bell-hiller outfit and one of the pushrod ends was cracked but you couldnt see it until it was installed. Lucky for me, I had a spare (bad...new out of the package).

Shoot, got to looking at the rotor head and there was tons of gap between the blade grips and center hub. One oring was out on the spindle and the other one was not visible. I disassembled it and found I was missing washers on the outer ends of the spindle and one of the remaining cap screw washers had been replaced with an off sized split washer. I'm going to have to head back to the LHS (they really should move that store closer to me) and see if they have the washers in stock.

[link]http://h1070313.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=EFLH1162B[/link]

[link]http://h1070313.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=EFLH1144[/link]

These are the only replacement parts that I could see that may have the needed washers in them, are these shims to remove the blade grip side to side play on the spindle? Do these parts look like the correct ones?