Update: Ended up having to drill out the old tail boom. The heat gun nor the nail polish worked for me. New one installed, but do you glue it back in or just leave it as a snug fit?

Just put a drop of superglue on the joint where it goes into the frame. If you ever have to change it again...it'll come out easy. Been there...done that...drop of glue works good.

Agreed, that's what I have been doing. I looked all over for the loc-tite for plastic stuff but cannot find it locally.

Edit - I need to find me a heat gun, I pulled three boom assemblies from wrecked frames using a soldering iron. [:-] Stunk up the house pretty good.

Wal_Mart has the plastic Loc-tite stuff. It's pretty good but a tad EXPENSIVE. For the tail boom, any generic superglue will work because of the carbon fiber and it don't seem to attack the frame that badly.

Harbor freight might just be your friend =) there is one in Ogden and SLC. A heat gun is under $10 bucks
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35776

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta..._stores.taf#UT

Good find mrasmm!

I have been there often, anymore I try not to go as it's just to hard not to load up cart after cart of stuff I may or may not need in the future. [8D]

I'll see if my co-workers want to stop by there during lunch one day this week.

lol, exactly you go in for 1 thing and come out with a whole cart full of crap because it's "on sale". Sometimes 50% off or more Even though they have the exact same sales about every 3 months =P

yeah get the co-worker to go in =P see if he can walk out with just 1 item

Wick246,

You lucky dog you, winning a 450XL HDE... The sims representation is pretty darn good on the Trex's. The Trex you won is a HDE and the Sim is a CDE. They fly almost identical..So that's not a problem.

Not sure if you're aware of the difference of HDE & CDE.

The HDE is a m(mechnical)-CCPM and the CDE is an e(electrical)-CCPM.. The HDE has three servos that work independently of each other, one for aleron, one for elevator and one for pitch control.. The CDE, also, has three servos, the difference is they all are mixed together, just like the Blade CP or PRO. They all work together, for aleron, elevator and pitch.

The advantage of either is debatable, unless you're doing wild 3d, then the CDE is better. For mild flying/aerobatics either is great.
The one advantage of the HDE is that it's much easier to set it mechanically.

Hope this helps,

Dave / Choppersrule
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[quote]ORIGINAL: wick246

Sounds great, I won a 450XL HDE kit (new) off of ebay. Just learning what radio gear and upgrades to include when I build it. In the sim the 450 CDE flys just incredibly, I wasn't sure if it was an accurate representation or not, glad to hear it sounds about right. For now I put the box up on a shelf to look at while I learn and save for the radio stuff.


[quote]

Mrasmm,

Hmmmm, never thought of Harbor Freight for heli stuff, I've got one just about 5 miles north of me. I'll have to check it out
Saturday (wife working =)).

Dave / Choppersrule
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hehe, be careful when you go in there, you might break the bank.

They also have some small foamies and even some small electric planes. They also have some small counter rotating heli's for indoor flight for about $40 bucks =)

Do you think CA glue is a little too strong in case I (inevitable!) have to remove it again? CA is tough stuff bot I never used it on anything CF before.

Harbor Freight is an awesome store. I can always find a good buy each time I stop there. Sometimes too many good buys[&o]

in my experience fingernail polish remover (the acetone kind), doesn't work all that well. I went to the hobby shop and got some debonder and it works alot better. Just apply a bit and let it soak in, after a couple of min dry of all the liquid you can with a paper towel, and then do it again. If your patient it will penetrate all the way into the tail, but it might take a while =)

I wonder if something like those reverse PVC reamers to get out old PVC would work on the tail if you got one small enough.

No...one drop on the joint, and it'll twist right out. The bad part is that hard landings also loosen the glued joint.

rickbarr Or BARRICK, here with an honest to goodness request for help.

I REALLY NEED to be able to install the heat sink in my CX2... nothing has happened so it's not an urgency,
BUT .... As IGNORANT as I can be : I am unable to figure out how to remove the landing setup and even the red canopy.
Would somebody STEP ME THROUGH this process ?
it was clearly explained to me before, here in the thread, how easy it is to do : but UNLESS I remove the body and the LG I can't reach the one screw holding the motor. are all these plastic items GLUED together ? the struts don't want to come out, pulling so hard will rip up the body, etc etc

see ? TOLD YA AM REAL STOOPID, DUH !

Rick, OLD PHARRRT,

We've all been there, trust me... Hmm, how do I get this sucker off.. You're not stupid, just careful... Hey, who's the guy that flys two planes at once? YOU.

The landing gear is just a pressed fit into the main frame, you may have to pull and twist alittle more than you think, but they will pull out. NOT GLUED...

The Cool Looking Red Canopy... On the sides of the canopy, you'll see 2 black little grommets on each side of the heli.. Just gently pull the canopy section away at that point. The grommets are pushed over a small carbon fiber rod.

See, that was pretty easy, It's tougher to get it back on, things just don't want to line up right and just slip in.

Hope this helps ya, ole Buddy,

Dave / Choppersrule
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Rick: Take the front body off by sliding the grommets off of the rods (top & bottom)where they are attached. All set? Next, you need to remove the landing struts. These DO pull right out of the battery holder but are a VERY snug fit. I hold the heli in one hand and use a pair of needle nose pliers put right next to where they attach to the battery holder and start pulling down on them. They ARE snug but pull gently yet firmly and they will eventually come out. Next, you can slide the grommets off the rear body rods and remove it. All set? Good, now have a beer and enjoy your accomplishment because the tricky part is coming next.

Time to remove the inner shaft! First remove the upper and lower blades from your heli. Now remove your flybar. Are you still with me?Once those parts are removed, you need to remove the lower head assembly from the shaft. Unloosen the two bottom screws and remove the two upper screws, The lower head shoud now slide off. Next unloosen the screw on the retaining collar just below your swashplate. Now you can flip your heli upsidedown and unloosen the two screws on the retaining collar holding the inner shaft on. It is the only collar down there. Once that comes off, you can remove your inner and outer shafts giving you access to the motor screws. This may sound difficult but it isn't that hard once you do it once. Post if you need anymore help. It helps to keep your manual around also so you can see where all the parts are & how they go together.

Jim

Thanks , I'm off to see how this thing reacts after my brutal surgery to it this afternoon! I felt like a proctologist! I think it's mad at me

Barrick,

I remember the first time I took a heli apart, gosh, how will I know when I get it all apart, what goes where, when I put it back together..

Hmmm, As I disassembled things, I put them in a vertical line on my work area, top to bottom, then when I had to reassemble,
I just worked from bottom to top... Another great idea.. Just take your time...I know you'll get it, you've been doing this for a zillion years.

Dave / Choppersrule

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THANK YOU AND THANK YOU AND THANK YOU AGAIN AND AGAIN.
Dave + Wnuk well you KNOW HOO-U-R !

The part that stumped was that because the struts just would not pull OUT, I was not so sure that I was actually DESTROYING the darn toy.

WNUK in Particular : THANKS SO MUCH for the details, I am PRINTING your POST and following it on the table.

for ALL : I have purchased the 500T GYRO, THE OUTRUNNER + the ESC recommended... for my T-REX. so now here is everything needed to start the ASSEMBLY.... pics will follow as the assembly moves forward......looking at some special blades : the CY RADIX 325's at CurtisYoungblood.com
OH...another little point of historic interest : the first time I saw CURTIS YOUNGBLOOD in person, he was 4 years old. His DAD, Dave, who had a friend in RICHARDSON, TEXAS invited them to come out and spend some time at the field. His Dad was, then, into RC and building and they were pretty good then. No, Curtis , didn't fly anything.... I was also in a contest out in Arizona when a 5 YEAR OLD CHIP HYDE entered with an UGLY STIK.\
y'all have updated your RC TRIVIA files, today.
HA HA RICK

How do the lights work out side after dark...they work. Problem is depth perception focused on 1 white, a red, and a green. The white flashes so bright, it blinds you at eye level, and it's a little tough to judge distance, speed, direction, and altitude. Flew it eariler (around dusk with zero wind), and that was GREAT. Just kinda cruised around the yard. When a slight breeze come up, it would climb to about 10-12ft from waist high. At dusk, the lights are great because everything starts to loose color so the lights stand out but you can still see the heli. No way I'd just put it up in the dark and fly. I just hovered nearly stationary after dark. Thought you guys might be interested in that little experiment.

That sounds great crash - would love to see a lighted flight at dusk. I think just hovering when it gets darker would be best for me too, in my mind I can hear the 'thwack' and picture tumbling red green and white lights after accidentally finding where the clothes line is.

Look out folks - he has discovered the Rex! Rick, your history lesson reminds me of the movie Forrest Gump.

Just getting some hover outside without winds was awsome...the lights were a bonus! Since I've got it trimmed where it about hovers it's self...I could see me getting a little cocky and do stuff I shouldn't (tumbling lights senerio at work there). No clothes lines in my yard but plenty of dog POOP. I try not to land on it.

Crashcrash,

Sounds like the NAV lights are really great.. Try some sunglasses=). Hey, don't get cocky, it'll cost ya $$$$. We've all done that.
Super glad you got the interference in check.. Now you're on to other fun things. That's what it's all about,, FUN.

Take care friend,

Dave / Choppersrule
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Choppersrule Here:

Well fellas, I guess I should pay more attention to some of my advise I give to others.

Not a big deal, but annoying.. I had the "Hippity Hops", you know, flying okay and then UP she goes or Down she goes..A couple feet at a time.. Going on for a couple weeks. Had to fix this...

Was going thru the process of elimination, checked everything... Low and behold it was a bad servo..Channel 2, Forward servo, Elevator control....Replaced servo(had some spares), now it's like new... Easy hovering/fly again... Go figure... One tiny part..

Put in your notes,

Dave / Choppersrule

CRASH CRASH

IMITATION is the best kind of flattery, so when I saw YOUR lights on the HELI, I FELT VERY JEALOUS, and as a result of that I went and LIT UP MY OWN RC MODEL.

My lights don't SHOW UP as great as yours so I took a pic in the dark ....

YOURS ARE MUCH BETTER AND THEY ACTUALLY MOVE !!

Next project : to install RAM SOUND : DIESELS and FOG HORNS .... YAH ! RICK

ALSO NOW KNOWN AS FORREST THE GUMP