drphoto

If you are serious about getting your BCP to fly well the first upgrade you want is a good programmable TX. It's next to impossible to get a really proper swash setup without programming, especially subtrim.

I used a DX7, but any good brand would work. If you get a neg shift brand like Futaba, you can even use your stock RX. The added bonus is that even the midrange radios like the DX7 just feel so much better than the el cheapo TX that comes w/ the Blade.

The next upgrade would have to be the superlandinggears or Superskids. Yes, they add a little weight, but you can slam the bird down from a few feet up w/ no damage.....and they just look cool.

Metal head parts, DD tails, dual tail motors or even belt conversions are cool, but start w/ a better radio.

Plus, if you get hooked and want to move on to a high end heli, you have something that will transfer.

FMB42

Good point drphoto. This is typical of RTF RC systems as my Blade CP Tx just cannot compare with the Futaba and Hitec units that I've used in the past and/or present. Once again, you get what you pay for.

sportsman67

I plan on doing a couple of upgades. I bought the superskids and they do look great, not that expensive of an upgrade and I'll get alot of use while learning and into regular flight but I will probably need to go back to stock when doing advaced or 3d flight. The radio will be my next because I would like to have more setup options and I can use the radio gear with a new heli if I go that route. I had thought about dd tail mod as I see alot of people doing it although the way I still touch the tail sometimes even after trimming it an eighth an inch, its nice for it to fly off doing less damage. Just my two cents.

AeroDave

I use my Futaba 9C with my CpPro. It made a huge difference. You're right on the money. the best, most important upgrade is a decent tx.

vortex05

On that subject for those with a 4in1 how much more do you have to buy to go with a DX7 or other TX?

I'm assuming the kit includes just a TX / RX what about gyro's / motor esc?

mrasmm

If you are so inclined and good at soldering, all you would need is the other receiver... this isn't a mod that most people can do though.


options
1. What you would need to do is get a 3 in 1 off of the blade cp prohttp://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLH1031

2. Edit: This will not work because the 2 in 1 does not have a way to turn off the revo for a HH gyro Get a 2 in 1 for the stock main motor and the stock tail http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1039 and a seperate gyro http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=EFLRG90HL

3. Or if you were going to go with a brushless main motor and the stock tail motor you would need http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLA311B the gyro from above and one of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHUY2&P=7

drphoto

The 4n1 hack on the original BCP is not difficult and does not require soldering. you simply take the case apart and pry out the receiver circuit board. It plugs into the ESC/mixer board via two 3 pin connectors. Get a couple of short servo extension wires and trim of the 'hood' on the female end to reveal the pins. Then plug these into the socket on the ESC board. If I remember correctly the top is throttle and bottom rudder (but I wouldn't swear to that, I did the mod 6 months ago) It's easy to test anyway. Put a dab of hot glue to secure and you're all set!


Some people cut the case down, but I wouldn't....as you may want to put it back stock in the future. Plus the top of the 4n1 is a good place to mount the new RX, expecially a tiny one like the AR6100.

Again, a neg shift radio like Futaba can use the stock RX as long as you get the correct crystal, of course. I would avoid the Futaba 6EXH as I don't think it has subtrim function, which is one of the most important aspects of proper setup.

Anyway. I put this post up because I always see newbs talking about metal heads, and brushless motors....yada, yada, but the radio is really the place to start.

mrasmm

Maybe I am just misinformed then and you could explain it to me...

I have seen projects of alot of people that have taken their 4 in 1 apart and have to solder on leads for their brushless and gyro's... if they could bypass all of this by getting a receiver that you can get some places for as little as $10 bucks.... I guess I am lost as to why they would do all of this work, and come up with these types of schematics? I'm not trying to be rude or anything, rather, just trying to figure it out.

Also I wanted to correct my advice... I was told by someone who has tried to use the 2 in 1 that it does not have a mix for revo, so a hh gyro will not work with it (a standard rate probably would though), anyways I just wanted to let you know that so you don't go out and buy one.

btw the image credit on this one goes to vector57 on the bladecprepair forum

ArrowNaughtic

Ouch drphoto.........I have the Futaba 6EXH, and am having my share of issues with programming. I have posted on a few forums looking for some setup tips with this radio and the stock BCP 4 in 1. I had a CNC HDX300 head but have encountered a host of issues with sticky grips and collective. So just yesterday I took off the CNC and went back to the stock head. Reversed the swash settings so the pitch works properly but sadly it causes the ELE to be reversed. Can't reverse the ELE servo as then it messes up the pitch function of all 3 servos. If you kow of a workaround for this, I am all ears. Until then, I am back to using the stock TX. (sniffles)


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Of all the things I ever lost........................................... I miss my mind the most!

mrasmm

I think choppersrule said he had a fix for this... you have to open up the servo's and swap 4 of the wires around he said... and that will reverse the direction of the servos... If I remember right, you said that you just switched out to the hitec 55's?

ArrowNaughtic

no mrasmm............. Still have the stock s75's in it and went back to the stock head from a CNC HDX300 head. Seems neither want to work as intended. I think the radio issue is in the mixing capabilitys of the 6EXH and the way the stock 4 in 1 works. My soldering skills are less than adequate so pinpoint soldering in a servo isn't my thing. (I added about 2 grams of solder on the side of my tail motor soldering new leads on it.......heh)
You may have a point though........... reversing the servos might work, but am afraid that would make my AIL function backwards. I will have to burn some brain cells on that one and see if that will work.
Thanks for your advice


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[b]Of all the things I ever lost........................................... I miss my mind the most![b]

drphoto

mrasmm, you're not being rude. If I didn't make things clear, then it's my fault. Pull the 4 screws on the RX side of the case, which is the side opposite of where the revo and gyro gain screws are located. If I remember correctly, you might need to slice through some tape w/ an exacto, then pull off the side of the case Take a a small screwdriver or something and gently pry out the circuit board. Once the board is removed you will see what looks like 2 female servo plugs. I think the top is throttle, and the bottom rudder, but this is easy to test. Get 2 3" servo extension wires. One end will have a socket w/pins inside a 'hood'. Cut away the 'hood' to expose the pins. These then get inserted into the socket in the 4n1. Make sure the signal wire (orange or red depending on the brand of extension) faces toward the front (nose) end of the unit. Use a dab of hot glue to hold them in place. You don't need to solder.

see if the photo clarifies things for you.

Now Arrow....regarding your swash setup. Use servo reverse to get the servos functioning properly. For example when inputting pitch on the TX, all 3 servos need to move in the same direction. Don't worry if they all move the wrong way at this point, as long as they work together. Do not be temped to use servo reverse, and reverse all 3. Check the other cyclic functions. For elevator the two in the back move together, and the one in front moves the opposite way to tilt the swash to and fro.

Ok after you've got this part make sure the servo arms are as close to 90 degrees as is possible at neutral stick (midstick on pitch) Because the 6EXH doesn't have subtrim, the best you can do here is play w/ taking the arm of an repositioning it. Some times turning the arm around 180 will get you closer. (sounds weird, but it works)

Now if one of your functions moves the wrong way go to the SWASH menu and change the value of your mix from a positive number, to negative....or vice/versa depending on the change you want to make. That's right! If the servos move together on pitch, but the pitch is 'backward' change it in SWASH MIX!

Clear as mud eh? You might want to look for Finless Bob's Trex 450 eCPPM video. You can apply a lot of that information to the Blade.

ArrowNaughtic

Ok drphoto.....will be reinstalling the CNC head and the 6EXH.......... just wiped out my stock setup on the couch. Bent main shaft doesn't work to well............... will try to straighten it later tonite. If I may be so bold, If I have problems later with this 6EXH, may I pm you for some more advice?
I do have finless bob's thread bookmarked for building my TREX that is coming in the next couple days. I bought the spektrum package from helihobby.com and it should be here in town this afternoon.and delivered tomorrow to the house. I also bookemarked his HDX300 head setup as I wanted to use that for reference too. Getting a set of dial calipers on the servo links and lining up the servos made a huge difference. (had to change all the arm positions for the stock setup, will now change them back)
My main issue has been with the radio programming when using it. I get confused easily and forget to write all my settings down. I have the original settings written down for the HDX head, and will be using that for a new starting point.
TY drphoto......that actually was very clear and makes perfect sense.


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Of all the things I ever lost......................................... I miss my mind the most!

drphoto

Arrow, if you are getting a DX7, pickup an extra AR6100 RX and use that. Put the 6EX in a foamie.

The DX7 is really easy to program. Watch the finless vids and then just go through it step by step.

mrasmm

hey, thanks for explaining it and taking the pic, that helped alot =)

Captain Randy

My Feedback: (1)

AeroDave,
Would you (or anyone else) post the Futaba 9C set up for the CP Pro, or tell where it may already be posted. I have the HiTec Electron 6 receiver and have not been looking forward to starting from scratch to program. Thanks.

ArrowNaughtic

Sadly drphoto ......its the DX6. Comes with the kit I bought. I also got new crystals on order for the Futaba and will have to decide which is going to be more worthwhile in the TREX. 5 point throttle and pitch aka futaba...........or 3 point aka DX6. The Futaba will work with the Blade without any modifications to the RX, just plug in the crystal and go.
At least that is what I am told. As you can plainly tell I am not by any means even up to novice level yet with programmable TX's. But I have copy and pasted your earlier tip and saved it to my puter. I got the main shaft straightened out so am going to stick with the stock TX and take the blade over to my sis's house this weekend. they have 5 acres of wide open field to play in so will take what works for now.....and get back to business on Monday when I get home.


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Of all the things I ever lost............................................. I miss my mind the most!

drphoto

Arrow, yes the Futaba should work fine w/ the stock RX provided they are both in the same 'band' range......high or low. I'm not certain about this, but I think 'low' band goes up to around channel 35. Someone else may clarify this.

Ok....if it were me.....I'd send back the DX6 and get a DX7 TX and AR6100 from GrandRC for your Rex. From everything I've read....you don't want to use the DX6 servos in a Rex, expecially if it is a direct swash setup. Plus, the DX7 TX is just much, much nicer.

Sure you could always get the full DX7 kit and try to sell the servos (the RX will fit in a 450, servos won't) but there is probably a glut of them on the market now. The minimum quality of main servo you want is the HS65 karbonite, w/ MG preferred. Tail servo of choice is the 9650, or one of the new JR digitals.

But hey, it's always easy to spend someone else's money. You're talking too someone who decided the high end helis were just too expensive and bailed.

You might get lucky and find one selling out like me. I took a huge loss, even though everything was brand new, except for a few hours on the radio in the Blade.

But I've still got golf and guitars to waste money on!