I can ride acrossed the floor with training gear on but I can't hover? I fly the CX2 but the CP PRO is a totally different animal! I can bring it up and actually fly it a bit 6 inches off the ground but hover NG? Anyone else have similar problem and how to get over it. I have the Real Flight sim and I'm using the Impalla with .30 training Heli (landing gear) to practice. Any other tricks to learn?

It sounds like the the swash plate is not 100% level in all directions. Also make sure sure that the trim settings on the radio are centered. It should lift fairly straight up in the air. The other thing to ensure is that the battery is perfectly balanced from front to back and side to side.

It does lift straight up. Once its up it goes to the side or whatever. Problem is hovering. I'm sure its tough.Does practice make perfect?

yep, it will take a bit of practice. Some people may take 3 or 4 tries to be an expert

Read, study and DO Radd's School of Rotary Flight. Doc

Darticus,

It's very difficult to hover any heli at six inches in the 300 size, like the Pro.. Hovering isn't a skill, it's an art.. Takes alot of practice..
You're in ground effects that low, try getting 3 or 4 feet off the ground at you'll see the difference.

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++

I don't want to lose it at 3-4 feet but I know what your talking about.Ron

Hi darticus, I to am learning and your right it is tough to hover. The scariest part is getting it up enough to get out of the ground effect, like waist high to find out if it stables out and calms down the heli abit so you can check your trim. Also I notice that you need to have a good set up or you fight the heli more than you should, if I notice wobble after a crash I usually strip it down and check everything out although you don't always break something noticeable but things get bent or loose ect... It takes alot of time to do this but it makes a huge difference when the set up and the trim is correct. Once I have things right I find it holds the tail and I counter for the left drift get the head up to speed then give it enough throttle to pop it up, with small corrections I can then hold a hover until I start to drift or loose controll then I try to gently set it down (the hard part) and realign the heli and start over. I must also say that through the advice on this forum you will learn alot by reading the different threads and following the links to set up articles and other tips ect. I also put on the jcs plasti blades(sym), training gear, super skids, extra set of fly bar wieghts, paper clip mod and trimmed 5/16 " off bothsides of my tail rotor(to minimize tail strikes). Other than these upgrades I'm still stock and I seem to be getting better every battery. Good Luck and Happy Flying.

more weight on flybar and a BIG training gear,i use 2 /40 inch carbonfiber rods 2.mm . a head locking gyro helped and get it up higher .2/3 feet maybe for a few seconds if ya can and keep trying

Darticus, listen to all of the advice here and draw your own conclusions. I had an EP Concept and never did get a good hover. What the EP did do was cost me a lot in repairs. In fairness to Kyosho the EP Concept was never advertised as a beginner heli and I'm definately a beginner. Mods I did to my CP Pro are to add flybar weights, move the servo linkages in one hole to reduce the hyper active cyclic and make sure the swash is adjusted to a perfect level, ie 90 deg. from the main shaft all the way around. Then I take some deep breaths throttle up lifting off to about waist high and do my best to hover. After a while I set it down and breath a big sigh of relief, let my pulse drop, dry the palms and try it again. What I have discovered is that flying over a lawn is a little more forgiving if you land a little hard, like I did when I came in tail first and had the vertical tail support pierce the ground like a lawn jart. Man I love this thing. Yes Kyle rocks and I can't believe what he can do at 11 years old. If I can hover well and fly around a bit even nose in, I'll be happy. At least I've mastered my CX2 a real confidence booster.

I think most of the problems I was experiencing with my EP was the ground effect mentioned in this thread. I was too afraid to get the EP up and out of the ground effect. When I did I would always land with a boom strike, bent tail boom smashed blades and a trip to my LHS. ; )

Burn

I agree with everything you say.I'm trying to hover in my house on carpet. Acually bring it up to about 2 feet and things get interesting. I try to hold a hover for about 5 to 6 seconds than let it down and sometimes to hard, thank you carpet. Do the extra flybar weights help? Was your swash plate ok from the company? Moving the servo linkages in one hole, do you mean the first hole? What do you think was your most important move? Can you hover ok now? Glad I have my CX2!!!!!

All good stuff I think too we need to try and react quicker, even anticipate which way the heli is wanting to go. Make the small, gentle correction earlier. Its like your sticks are constantly moving. I was helping a guy on th esim today, and he seemed to be waiting until the heli had moved a bit before correcting. You should correct when the heli tilts in a direction but before it actually moves. Kind of like I've always said, like trying to stand on a basketball. Once again, the corrections are small and gentle, just much more immediate. I think this mindset will make hovering much easier. Just a thought.

Good analogy AeroDave, it is like balancing on a basket ball and a levitating one at that. Darticus, yes the flybar weights help, thinking of another analogy ie. balancing with a horizontal pole instead of balancing without. The extra weight enhances the gyroscopic effect and slows the paddles. Moving the servo linkagages in towards the servos reduces their throw. You just have to enlarge the holes for the linkages. I also found removing the linkages from the servo arms while the arms are on the servos is easier. I think you may have to remove one servo to get at it's arm so leaving the arms on is easier. Bef, I moved mine in by one hole. Before you are done you should unplug the main and tail motors, then center your sticks and with the power on tighten of loosen the links to level the swash. Once you have the swash level pull the throttle back and check the pitch of your blades. They should be at or near zero - horizontal when viewed edge on. If after this your heli doesn't lift off, just repeat by tightening your linkages a few turns. Just turn them all by the same amount and you won't have to level the swash again. Check your throttle and repeat until you get the desired lift off. This will adversely affect your ability to fly inverted, but all we are trying to do here is hover. My swash needed leveling out of the box, but once done, what a difference. I can finally hover for minutes at a time and slew around a bit. It's still not easy, like the CX2. You can sleep and fly the CX2, but by comparison you are always active in flying the CP Pro. I actually like the challenge.

I added the flybar weights but didn't really notice a difference. What would the difference be like? Is it better to try the hovering at 6 inches or higher with the CP Pro. Can you get a CP PRO to hover like a CX2 does? I guess just keep trying?

Wanted to also mention that I can hover on the real flight sim. Maybe I'm tooooo cautious with my CP Pro.

Hi gents,

Darticus, seems your off to a good start. I was in your position a few months ago, I could fly the CX2 all day and needed more of a challange. Yes the Cp Pro can hover like the CX2, but takes more radio stick inputs to do so. The way the CP Pro is designed, it has to be going either forward, backwards, left, right, it's not made to stay in 1 spot, but it can hover very well, once experience is gained. I made at least 30 flights with my CPP and haven't had a single spill yet. My advice to you is, don't fly it inside your house and don't try to hover it 6 in. from the ground. Go outside on a calm day and try to hover it from 3 to 5 ft. from the ground. Also, when heli is decending, make sure to keep enough throttle on, cause heli falls like a rock once the decent has started. If you take baby steps, your chances of success are great. Happy Flying!!!



Burn and Sportsman67,

When I 1st starting flying the CPP I noticed the tailboom strikes had to come to a halt and fast. Quik fix I did was take tube from inside of ink pin, soften 1 end and slide it over the tailboom brace for more tailrotor height. I did this mod after my 2nd flight and after 30 or so flights I haven't had a single tailrotor stike at all!! My tailrotor strikes prior to this mod went from 100% to zero, no need to trim the rotor blade. Here's a pic of my simple, cheap, highly effective tailboom/rotorblade strikes mod. Note: My tailrotor has about 3/4 of an in. with tailrotor blade in vertical position from the ground and main skids won't sit on surface flat, but you also won't have anymore strikes. Why E-Flite engineers would produce a great product with massive tailrotor strikes I'll never know!!!!

Pearl

Hi Pearl_414 , I have had only one tail strike since trimming the tail rotor and putting on the super skids which raises it up quite a bit. The other reason for less strikes is after about 30 flights now on my CP Pro I can hover tail in chest high for a whole pack, I'm going to try left, right and nose in hover next. My problem now is to quit while I'm ahead, I,ve flown to long a couple of times and lost control of the tail paniced come down to fast off kilter wham blade strike! The plasti blades are always okay but I need to take everything apart as the main shaft bends. I guess I need to be more careful as I wish I could go 30 flights without a mishap, oh yeah! a couple happened in my basement but I don't fly in the house anymore because now that I hover outside I see how much space I need. Thanks for the advice, Happy Flying Rick

Hey Sportsman67,

It's great to hear you had many successfull flights. Those low battery forced landings you had are unfortunate. I made low battery forced landings 1 of my main priority's as I approached my 1st CPP flights. After flying my CX2 and seeing what a low battery does to an electric heli, I knew I couldn't allow this to happen to my CPP. I usually fly my CPP for about 5 to 8 minutes no longer on a full charge just to be safe. 1 day I landed my heli so I could adjust the rudder trim with rotor blades still turning and heard a weird choping sound, I looked at heli and it was nose over. As I was adjusting trim, heli was slowly but surely noseing over and the blades hit the grass, thats my only mishap. Crashing a heli because of pilot error is ok, but crashing because of low battery is another story and it's hard to stop flying cause it's so fun. I can easily understand your mishaps which I don't call crashes, just unfortunate actions. I done forward, backward and side to side motions with the CPP. Heli is very fast in all directions, just have a lil extra altitude when flying backwards, like 10 to 15 feet. I'm no means a great CPP pilot, as I've had many close calls, but was able to save it some how. With some 30 flights you are also a successfull CPP pilot. Remember to land that heli before battery dies and you'll have another flight for the record books.

Keep those rotors choping!!!!!

Corey

Hi Pearl_414, Thanks for the encouragement at times you need to have a positive word or two. When I do something I know better and I should have learned from the first time I have had many words with myself, not many you can print here. I don't mess around with the odds anymore and fly only where I have room. The weather sucks here this week and I have only got to fly maybe five packs all week so far. A good sign is that I have gone through these without any mishaps trying to hover. I am hesitant to move on as I am starting to find it harder to hold the tail, especially after a few minutes into flight. It is my original tail motor so maybe I should change it out. I also ordered the DD setup so if it is still a problem after I put the spare stock motor in then I'll have an upgrade ready to go. Happy Flying! Rick

Hey Sportsman67,

Don't feel bad for only flying your heli 5 times in the last week. Lately the wind here has been blowing 15 - 25 mph for the last 3 weeks, I was only able to sneek in 1 flight in the last 3 weeks []. The wind has finally slowed down today, now I have to help a family member move into a new house and help another build dog kettles, 20 of them. I hope to make atleast 1 flight within the next week, thats a total of 2 flights in 4 weeks, it's not easy being me lol. I also have made foolio mistakes in the past and did my best to learn from them. It's not the result that counts, it's the effort. What exactly is a DD setup? Good luck to ya Rick and happy flying.

Pearl

lol, i had one of those unfortunate actions today. cost me blades, a head teardown, and straightening my flybar. well worth it.[8D]

[edit: DD=direct drive. to install a DD setup, first you remove the stock tail motor, gear, & tail rotor. then you use a dremel tool to round out the flat spot where the motor goes. next install a gws edf-50 motor with a gws 0320 direct drive prop. DD provides top level tail holding performance, especially when you have a heading hold gyro to go with it. imo DD should be a first upgrade for most ppl.]

-kev

Pearl_414,

Comment se va, (sp),


Quote: "and help another build dog kettles, "

I knew Cajuns would eat anything, ,,,,,,, but their dogs too?

You know I'm just ribbing you.

Where you from? I was born and reared in DeRidder.

orlbuzz

One thing I noticed Dart is I was never prepared to get my self out of a situation. It wasn't that I couldn't recover, it was more that I couldn't get my hands to change what was happening. So once you can hover on the sim, get yourself in some precarious situations. Hover high and do tail down fall. Do some spinning and let it get out of control, then try to recover, you will learn how to get out of situations. Heck I fly inverted even though I know there's no way I'm ready to do it in real life. Turn nose in, just have fun with the simulator, it really pays. Over Easter I was hovering in the wind at my mom's and hard right crashed. First thing I did was flip my heli hard right on the sim and practiced getting out of it. I mean I OVERDID it big time to practice how to get out of the situation.

One more thing I did was when I am just flying around not purposely trying to not crash on the sim, I put $1 or quarters in the bin every time I crash when I'm just flying around. So it costs you something. and you stop when you have no quarters/dollar bills left. It's more realistic because you crash in real life you have to stop too. If you force yourself to truly imitate, it becomes a more realistic simulation situation.

OH WOW, Now I have $20 for parts LOL

DY

OH and almost always, UP is better for an out.

Great idea! maybe thats the way I should go.Ron

Hehe Yoda, I like your madness.

Truglodite: No heatsink on your DD tail motor?

A note on the DD tail: Best... mod... for CPP... ever. The GWS DD tail rocks when you have a nice HH gyro installed. I use the g90 on my setup and boy... the tail holds perfectly. That big inefficient tail that comes stock on the CPP is a joke in comparison.

Also, they sell the EP-0320 props in black now. (new GWS kits from ALLeRC.com come with black instead of orange props) Something about the bright orange just doesn't fit on an otherwise silver & black bird. Damn you blue anodized swashplate!