patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks for all the pics and weights Steve. Looks like I made the right choice! Mine should be here on the 1st! I'm looking forward to getting it in the air quick!

Chris

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Chris
The weights look very good. Im really impressed with the wing and stabs. The construction is pretty well done. I'd give it a B+ on finish, which is what I expected (For reference, Onda's planes get an A+ in my book, Oxai's get an A, my Visa's get an A-). They could have lightened up on the clear coat a bit and there are some iron scuff marks on the wings. But that's all nit-picking. Overall it looks great.

I am anxious to get it going. I have all the bits and pieces coming in the next couple days. I think I'll go pull-pull on the rudder rather than put the servo in the tail as per factory setup. I will probably go with wing adjusters and a nylon bolt for wing retention rather than the bolt and blind nut arrangement. And I will use my own linkages and hinges. I think this will be a very straight forward construction.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Cool.

I think I will do mostly the same as you but not sure on the tail servo yet. I like the idea really. I may go with pushrod or deps for elevators though. I think I will install everything else and see how the cg is before I determine that though.

As for finish, for the price, I am fine with however it show's up really. If it fly's as good as it looks, and BJCraft can continue to provide us models at this pricing, we may have a great company here.

Chris

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I've gone back and forth on the tail servo. I really like having the direct coupled rudder servo. I've had that on my IMAC planes and on my Passport and Visa. I'm a fan of it. I really don't like to mess around with pull-pull. But, I'm a bit concerned with CG. The plane is set up for the tail mounted rudder servo and it looks like it would be pretty easy to install it. Maybe I'll try that and see if it can work out. If not, then I'll go pull-pull. Its easy enough to do either way.

As for finish, you'll be happy. I was just pointing out the nits. All minor stuff. Its a good looking airplane.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

There is plenty of fwd/rear movement available when installing the battery tray so servo placement is not going to be a big deal. I think Andrew has his batteries over the gear plate and that is with the rudder servo in the rear and a Q80 in the nose. My demo Nuance has the batteries just fwd of the gear plate and the rudder servo in the rear and a Plettenberg Advance in the nose (lighter than Q80). Would not worry about putting the servo in the tail at all.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks Chris,

That tracks with the designer notes you uploaded on the previous Nuance thread. I downloaded and re-read it. It is located here: http://rcone.kr/board/index.html?id=bjreference1&no=14

Folks need to download and open the "Nuance170-explanator.zip". It is easier to follow than the text version uploaded previously.

Basically, he designed it to favor a slight aft CG. He has some very interesting insight into the design features. The file is definitely worth reading. Lots of thought went into the design.

I'll go with the aft rudder servo.

jarvis johnson

My Feedback: (15)

If you Guy, use the Battery tray that comes in the kit, you need to reinforce it, do not use the locate in the plans. move the hold tray front, so that the packs sit over the grear.
that way half the pack is not hanging off the tray itself. believe me,it will save you alot of time later. Also use good glue to put the tray in, are it will pull itself loose.


Just me 2 cent

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Jarvis
This has a different setup than the monolog. The tray can be moved to where you want it. So you can check CG then fix it in position. I usually make my own trays out of glass/nomex but I'll use the one supplied. It looks OK. You should always anchor the battery tray well. That's a lot of weight under G-Load. I usually use Aeropoxy.

jarvis johnson

My Feedback: (15)

Cool, let me know when you are going to fly it, once you finish. An I'll bring the Vanquish out.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

This is the position of the battery tray in the demo plane. It is probably too far fwd and the batteries run at the rear end of the tray so I would probably put the tray centered on the gear plate depending on the motor used.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I installed the rudder servo in the tail, per the stock kit design. For some good information on construction of the nuance, go here and download the nuance-170.zip file http://rcone.kr/board/index.html?id=bjreference1&no=11

The rudder has a nice thick TE. It is finished and ready to hinge. I used standard CA hinges. There weren't any supplied, which is fine since I usually use my own anyway. Use a hinge slotting tool. I found that the bevel of the rudder was just a hair off (about 1/32") so the slotting tool helps to keep things centered.

The kit comes with the rudder mounting tabs as shown in the pictures on the zip file. I was skeptical about this so I assembled it outside the plane and put the zip tie strap on as shown. I found it to be very solid when assembled. So, I CA'd the mounting tabs together and then installed them with Aeropoxy. I did one side first, let it dry, then did the other side. I zapped a small piece of triangle stock in to act as a brace and alingment for the ply mounting tabs, that made it easy to get it in and align it. Once things are fully dry then I'll cut the servo horn slot and mount the servo and control horn on the rudder.

I don't have a servo arm long enough for the rudder so I have to make a trip to the LHS and get one. Our local LHS, Gyro Hobbies, has really increased their stock so I'm sure I can get a longer arm there. I was surprised that on my last trip, expecting just to get some CA and epoxy, they had everything I needed. Including BVM Aeropoxy. Nice.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I made the firewall mount for my Neu motor. I am using the Budd Engineering mounting system. In order to fit it into the Nuance I did a simple test fit with a cardboard firewall. I estimated the location of the firewall by a quick trial fit of the motor and spinner. I measured the diameter of the fuse at that location.

Luckily, in the area where the firewall goes for this mount the fuse is nearly circular in shape. So I started with a 92mm cardboard disk with a 27mm hole for the motor. I trial fit this and trimmed it and then used it as a pattern for a lite ply disk. I stuck a depron disk on the back of my spinner to act as a spacer. I wanted to leave plenty of gap room since the thrust adjustments for this motor will be done behind the firewall. That will pull the spinner closer to the nose when I add space washers for thrust adjustment. I made the ply disk using my cardboard pattern and then sanded it to fit.

Once I was happy with the ply disk I laminated 3oz CF onto it using my Reynolds Handi-Vac and ziploc bags with the check valve. That's the best re-purposed tool I have found.

I'll take more pics when I mount it with Aeropoxy.

By the way, I should point out that after I mount the firewall then I will enlarge the opening for the motor gearbox to pass through. It shouldn't touch the gearbox, but it makes it a lot easier to position it for fitting and aligning. I'll remove material and open it up, leaving some area around the rubber isolators.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

here's a pic of the rudder servo with the tie wrap strap. Simple, but effective.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Interesting, not sure I'll trust my rudder servo mounting to a zip tie. lol

I will use these.. I still have some similar somewhere..

http://servocity.com/html/g402_servo_mount.html

C

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I looked at those, but decided to go with the stock approach. I was skeptical as well, until I put it together. The servo fits very tight into the ply brackets, no side to side twist. The zip tie is pretty tough and holds the servo well. I made a mockup of the strap and screwed it into my workbench. I couldn't rip it apart. Maybe it will get brittle over time or stretch. I'll keep an eye on it. Its easy enough to replace if it loosens up, but I really don't think it will. Its simple to test it out, just screw a zip tie to your bench with a couple socket head servo screws. Then throw your back out trying to lift your bench up.

I glued in the firewall tonight. The hard part is over. Its all down hill from here.....

By the way, I have a question for those that use the Budd soft mount. How tight do you torque the thing down? All the way till the SS washers are compressed onto the nylon inserts, or do you leave some room for movement? I torqued it down all the way.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Cool. Glad to hear it's strong then!

As for the Budd mount, I've used em for years.. They will tighten down pretty tight and stop (or feel really tight) when they bottom out of the white nylon spacer. It's whole purpose.

C

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Make sure you use the proper allen wrench though. If it's even a little small, they screws will strip out. I usually hold the allen wrench stationary, and use a socket on 1/4" drive ratchet and turn that.

C

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nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Probably double it up at 90 degree so the servo will not move at all.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks Chris,

I think I'll just use some standard SS socket head screws. I have never liked the button head screws for the reason you point out. I bought some SS washers of the same size from McMaster Carr so I will put those large washers as my thrust spacers as well as on the screw head side and locknut side of the mount. I like having the area of the washer to spread out the load so I don't crush my ply/CF.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

I fully agree on spreading out the load. I like the washers with the Budd Mounts. It's funny, Jerry uses aluminum can metal for his spacers to get his thrust right. I can't tell that much difference. hahaha

I am excited to hopefully get a day or two off so I can start working on mine. BTW, mine came with ca hinges. But I think I will add a few on the elevators as they only put 3, and I'll probably add 2 to the ailerons also cuz there is 5. I like 2 on the ends closer together. I'm going with a single elevator servo up front. 1 more DEPS setup in my life can't be all that bad. haha

C

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

My wings and stabs are hinged the same, but no hinges came with the rudder. I'll use my own anyway. I will also add some more to the elev and ail.

Surefire

My Feedback: (1)

Chris - Any pictures of your Nuance?

Steve - Looking good!

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

I have barely taken it out of the box Jon.. I've been working in Vacaville and am exhausted from the long commute. At least I'm working though.. Been a while. Will probably have time next week to put it together..

And how can you tell Steve is looking good? I barely saw his hand in one of the pics.. lol

C

Surefire

My Feedback: (1)

Chris - That's great news about the work! Hopefully next week you get some "model" time.