I get all the e-mails from the website but didn't get an e-mail from you....hmmm.....sometimes I hate computers...pm me your e-mail address and I'll get back to you ASAP.

We are not shipping kits at teh present time but plans are available. I need to look and make sure I have all the files though like root and tip and formers.

Pete

Ok,

1. Foam stab with lightening holes. About 20grams a piece.
2. An electric pilot's weights (I'm too old for the gym versions)
3. Sheeted and slightly trimmed. 45grams a piece including tube so far.

Used 14grams (0.5oz) resin for sheeting both halves. I've put them back under pressure until the weekend but initially the bond looks good.

Next, the wings.

Here's the slot for the false rib on the wing.

It also shows my template which, as you can see, has gone though a number of revisions. Should look tidier once I've cut the holes in it.

I've also cut the hole for the wing tube on one wing panel. Looks good so far but I'll only know when I can line up the two panels. I used the same method as the stabs except with a longer/wider piece of wood and a 3/4" copper water pipe as a cutting tool. The outside diameter just happens to be a nice snug fit for the 7/8" tube.

I am working on the basis that the foam is just acting as a spacer and doesn't provide any real structural strength. Hence it is more important to make sure that the false rib and spars are glued to the sheeting than to the foam adjacent to them. Once sheeted and glassed the foam is more or less superfluous. Anybody that wishes to contradict me (or confirm) is free to do so before I get too much further.

Right,

Had a bit of a battle with the 2nd wing tube hole. Cost me a blank but the 3rd one worked out ok. It is 1mm (about 3/64") off center but straight, so I'm going to forgive myself for that.

Glued the false rib. There are places where the foam burnt away too much but I'm working on the basis that the bond with the spars and balsa sheeting is more important so rather than adding weight I'm going to leave the gaps. Still waiting for comments from the pro's on this one.

Just about to glue the spars. Cutting the slots with a dremel as described in the instructions worked well.

Cut the lightening holes and servo lead tubes.

Saved a disappointing 16g per wing, basically 1oz total. As shown in the pic the wings are 112grams (4oz) each.

While cutting the wing tubes I was battling to get the last inch of foam from the end of the tube. There was just not enough friction to 'break' the foam off inside the cutting tube. A drop of foam safe cyano INSIDE the cutting tube. Insert tube and leave for a couple of minutes. A quick twist and pull out the offending foam. Be careful you don't get cyano on the OUTSIDE of the cutting tube.

Next sheeting, capping and trimming. After that, aligning the wings and stabs on the fuz.

Well, I've started working on my Black Magic VF3E again.

Have located the elevator servo which took plenty of procrastination... Hopefully my pictures will help others?

DEPS is almost fully installed. Just need to add support bracing.

Only using a single S9650 on the elevators.

Cheers,
Jason.

Looks Great Jason. Very clean!!!

what will be your motor, esc and batteries?

Thanks Chris,

I'm a very slow builder.. The trouble is, I'm too easily distracted.

The model is set-up for an AXI 5330/F3A motor. I also have a Castle HV85 that I'll probably use with it. I normally use a Spin 99 but the Castle is brand new just sitting there. May as well try it. Batteries will be F3A Unlimited - Power Unlimited 4900mAh. Will also be switching from 36Mhz to 2.4Ghz (Multiplex) in this model.

Cheers,
Jason.

Sounds like a very Solid setup. Cant wait to see it finished.

Jason,

I'd be apprehensive using a single S9650 to drive the elevators. The torque rating might be OK but the gears are a different matter, they are quite a bit smaller with finer teeth. It would be a shame to have the gears strip on you and all that work re-kit itself. Most guys I know using them are using one per elevator half.

Pete

Jason,

I agree with Pete on the Elevator servo situation. On my BMVF3 I run a Airtronics Servo 94775, this servo has 151oz of torque at .13 sec. This is plenty fast enough for me and more than enough torque.

What are you running for Ailerons?

G'day Pete & Chris,

The 9650 will be fine for the elevator. Will be using them on each aileron too but have an S9151 for the rudder.

I understand your reservations with this servo but you need to take the glow hat off. On a glow set-up you're 100% right, the 9650 would be insufficient.

A friend has been using the 9650 on elevator and ailerons for quite some time without drama. This is on a Cyclone E and he flys the model hard in F3A. He's the current Australian Master.... He has recently switched to the BLS153 brushless servos which are the same size. Apparently they have a tighter gear train than the 9650 too and 7Kg of torque!

Cheers,
Jason.

Ok Guy's,

Some more progress.

DEPS is now fully installed. Have fitted support bracing and CA'ed it all into place. Now here's the tip! The instructions specifically state to fit the DEPS before doing any cross bracing of the fuse.. This makes fitting the lower cross bracing real hard so I suggest fitting the lower cross bracing first, then the DEPS and finally, the upper cross bracing. I also made a small cutout in the former near the servo so the pushrod clears the former when actuated.

Have started on the upper stringers too. Looks like I'll have to make the cutout for the stringers in TDF too. This should be done when the part is routed IMHO.

Cheers,
Jason.

Cool Jason,

Let's see if we can get the "last two" VF3's in the sky before the end of the year.

Finished with the hairspray. About to sheet the left wing. 80grams (2.9oz) for top and bottom sheet together.

Edit: the left wing is sheeted and in the shuck. I used 45grams of resin as opposed to the 36grams suggested by Mike. I think I was a bit heavy handed on the 'beading' around the honeycomb section. It is annoying to THROW away even 9grams of of weight advantage when one has worked so hard to reduce weight. I guess I'll have to do the other wing the same, so 18grams gone in total.

Hi Grant,

I seriously doubt my one will be in the air by Christmas...

I'm considering not honeycombing my wings stab and fin etc. Will see how the fuse weight comes out and make a decision then.

Attached are some more pics. Have built up the canopy frame. I made a small jig to set the rear part of the frame at 20 degrees as per the plan. Also added some balsa front and back to stiffen the frame up. Next will be to cut the turtle deck former to fit behind the canopy frame, fit carbon shell to canopy frame and trim then glue the former in front of the canopy. Doing things a little different from the instructions here as I believe it will result in a better canopy fit.

Cheers,
Jason.

I recently acquired a BMV3 kit. I am having a hard time identifying what these pieces are for. The other side of them is white.


Update: Mystery solved the seller has told me these are bonus parts from another airplane in his workshop. Would of been really funny if I had found a place for them in my BM.

Did you use tow on the top and bottom wing skins, or, just one side?

I use tow on the top and bottom. I want the panel to be reinforced for upright and inverted flight forces.

Hi Guys,

I have been a little slack of late but have done a little more to my Black Magic this weekend.

Have fitted the front stringers and fitted the canopy mounting pins and clips. I haven't glued the Turtle deck front ply yet but have pre drilled it for the canopy clips. Will fit the carbon canopy to the frame before gluing the Turtle deck front ply just in case things need adjustment. The canopy frame is flimsy by itself but will be rock solid once the canopy is glued to it.

The Turtle deck balsa has been sanded and cut to size. It curls up nicely once the dope has dried. Weighs in at 27 grams with dope. Dry fitted to core just to make sure all is good. Need to procure some more bagging material before gluing the balsa to foam.

Cheers,
Jason.

Can you tell me how long the motor box is? From the front of the firewall to the front of the box. I really wish I had full size plans.

G'day Astropuppy,

The length of the motor box is 156mm. This was measured from the front of the firewall to the front of the composite motor plate.

Cheers,
Jason.

Time for a progress update....

The canopy is now fully fitted with two carbon tube dowels at the front. Once the turtle deck is cut to final shape the rear former will be glued into place. All is fitting real nice so far.

The sheeting has been glued to the front canopy area. This was done in strips as suggested by the instructions. Was a little time consuming bit the end result is pretty good.

The turtle deck skin has now been glued to the core with epoxy. I was going to use polyurethane glue but used epoxy instead as epoxy is tried and tested... Also had it on hand. You can see in the photo how much resin I wasted.. Only used 4 grams of epoxy.

The skin weighs 26 grams un-trimmed. The core weighed in at 100 grams but its yet to have the final hot wire cut. After vacuum bagging the whole assembly weighed 130 grams un-trimmed. That means I used 4 grams of resin to glue the skin. I'm happy with that. After trimming the assembly weighs 129 grams.

Next step is to make another two templates for the final hot wire cut. Plan to leave 1/4" of foam in the turtle deck.

Cheers,
Jason.

Thanks for the measurement Jason.

Can anybody post a picture of their battery tray; or, at least give me an idea of how far forward the batteries need to ride.

A little more progress...

Turtle deck is now complete and glued to the fuse. Polyurethane was the glue of choice... Just a smear of it is all that's needed.

I found that the turtle deck template drawings supplied in the kit are a little too small in height. I had to add some balsa (2mm) to the top of the fuse to lift the turtle deck up to match with the canopy. This balsa was glued to the top of the fuse and a small piece of 1/16th balsa was added to hold the foam core in correct position. The core naturally pulls in so the balsa prevents this. You may be able to see what I'm on about from the pictures. Masking tape was used to hold everything in position while the glue cured.

Next will be fitting the cowl.... Starting to look like a plane now...

Cheers,
Jason.

This link: http://www.customairframes.com/ is down.
So I suppose that it is not possible to purchase from them anymore. Or not?