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Old 03-01-2011 | 02:10 AM
  #1401  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Ok, motor mounted! I used 4x10 mm button head socket bolts...perfect!

All I have to do is hinge the ailerons and install the aileron servos. Then it is just a matter of connecting up the RX...

I do have a few questions for you guys that have your Winds in service. First off, the landing gear fairings, what method did you use to attach them to the gear struts? What glue did you use? Has the glue held up?

On your batteries, what connector is everyone using? Deans plugs? Powerpole?

Anything else you guys want to mention?

Thanks!
Old 03-01-2011 | 05:44 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Powerpoles.
Old 03-01-2011 | 06:01 AM
  #1403  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I use to use APPs way back in the beginning. I switched to Deans because of their smaller size and supposed higher current handling. If I didn't need to standardize on a small connector I'd probably go back to APP's. They are easier to use in all ways other than size and I don't need super high current handling ability and if I did, I'd just use 5mm bullet connectors.
Old 03-01-2011 | 06:08 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I used deans (original) on the wind at first, but I had strange things happening, sometimes motor would restart in the air, I checked the plugs, and they had become black on inside. I changed to CC bullets, and have no problems so far.
Old 03-01-2011 | 06:41 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

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qformat="true" priority="39" locked="false"></w:lsdexception></w:latentstyles></xml><![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><style type="text/css"> Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;mso-style-noshow:yes;mso-style-priority:99;mso-style-qformat:yes;mso-style-parent:"";mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;mso-para-margin-top:0in;mso-para-margin-right:0in;mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;mso-para-margin-left:0in;line-height:115%;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}</style><![endif]><p class="MsoNormal">Any connector that sparks when you plug it in can (will?) become black on the inside. There are contact cleaners that you can use to take care of this. Generally intermittent connection with a <span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">Deans</span> happens because when soldering the connector you over heated the plastic housing and the pins moved a little, creating a sloppy fit. That's part of the negative of using Deans. They require pretty good soldering skills. Occasionally, I still mess one up and I've soldered hundreds of them. So don't feel bad if that happens to you.</p>


ORIGINAL: DronN

I used deans (original) on the wind at first, but I had strange things happening, sometimes motor would restart in the air, I checked the plugs, and they had become black on inside. I changed to CC bullets, and have no problems so far.
Old 03-01-2011 | 06:48 AM
  #1406  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I know that far
But it started to make trouble in the air, I was too concerned not to loose the plane in it's first 10 flights.
After I changed to bullets, nothing is black, and nothing heats up or makes problems
Old 03-01-2011 | 08:11 AM
  #1407  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I use these.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9283

They come with the Turnigy/Zippy batteries and so far I have had great success with them. Easy to solder and will take a 10AWG wire no problem. Only trick is not to get solder buildup on the outside of the bullet as the plastic sheath will not lock in properly then.

You are really going to like your Wind. I was just flying mine yesterday and I am still very happy with it.

Cheers

MJ
Old 03-01-2011 | 09:04 AM
  #1408  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Thanks guys! All good suggestions, I really want to use Powerpole's as I have them and the crimper but it's Deans I am most familiar with...the batteries themselves I think will come with bullet connectors attached.....guess it will be a game day decision....

Now, tell me about propellers, what is best for a hacker A50-16L on 8s 4900's?
Old 03-01-2011 | 09:58 AM
  #1409  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I like the APC 18x12E myself. The 18x10E is a little slower and a little cooler running. If I flew in a lot of hot weather I might use the 18x10E.

ORIGINAL: InboundLZ

Thanks guys! All good suggestions, I really want to use Powerpole's as I have them and the crimper but it's Deans I am most familiar with...the batteries themselves I think will come with bullet connectors attached.....guess it will be a game day decision....

Now, tell me about propellers, what is best for a hacker A50-16L on 8s 4900's?
Old 03-01-2011 | 03:58 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110


ORIGINAL: mdjohnson

I use these.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9283
They come with the Turnigy/Zippy batteries and so far I had great success with them. Easy to solder and will take a 10AWG wire no problem. Only trick is not to get solder buildup on the outside of the bullet as the plastic sheath will not lock in properly then.

You are really going to like your Wind. I was just flying mine yesterday and I am still very happy with it.

Cheers

MJ

The only thing that worried me about them is the person using them, ME! I feared that I may inadvertently plug a battery into a battery with disasterous results! So, to get around this, I went for EC5 connectors. They're a bit bulky but it's really hard to get it wrong. Perfect for a peanut like me.
Old 03-01-2011 | 08:26 PM
  #1411  
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I hear you Renegade. In fact I have done exactly that with my in series wiring harness. I now colour code them with a Sharpie (don't know what the Aussie version is but it is a waterproof felt pen)and use every colour except black or red. Purple to purple, green to green.......well, you get the idea. After the first debacle I have not had a problem!!

Live and learn

Cheers mate

MJ
Old 03-01-2011 | 08:29 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I use micro deans on my Rx batteries and had the misfortune of plugging two packs into each other, while strapped in my Wind. Don't have a clue how nothing burned - massive amount of smoke, sparks, somehow managed to stick my hand blindly in there and pull everything out.

Anyway, now I have color-coded micro deans for Rx, and Powerpoles for bigger batteries. You can color code them and assemble them so you can't make that mistake. Very handy, incredibly easy, super fast. I like 'em.
Old 03-01-2011 | 08:39 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I decided to go with the powewrpoles myself. These are the first time using them even though I have had the connectors and crimpers for some time now....

I am getting close, maiden this weekend for sure!
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Old 03-01-2011 | 08:46 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110


ORIGINAL: mdjohnson

I hear you Renegade. In fact I have done exactly that with my in series wiring harness. I now colour code them with a Sharpie (don't know what the Aussie version is but it is a waterproof felt pen) and use every colour except black or red. Purple to purple, green to green.......well, you get the idea. After the first debacle I have not had a problem!!

Live and learn

Cheers mate

MJ

MJ, for the record we do get sharpies over here (my girlfriend has an unnatural attraction to them, she has around 10 on a lanyard in the house!) but the true felt tip indellible marker in australia is [link=http://www.artline.com.au/Pages/Category.aspx]ARTLINE[/link], they're great! and when they're done they make great exhaust defletor tubes

Old 03-01-2011 | 08:54 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I think the blue plane looks faster. Maybe you'll even get an extra point for that sometime [&:]
Old 03-02-2011 | 02:37 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

I match the color of battery power wires and ESC power source wires before plugging in. Never have an incident of having two packs self discharging. The two 5s packs are pre wired together in serial and kept that way all the time. I am using 10s charger which can fast charge one 10s pack.
Old 03-02-2011 | 02:43 AM
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From: VleutenUtrecht, NETHERLANDS
Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Now, tell me about propellers, what is best for a hacker A50-16L on 8s 4900's?
In my experience, the 18x12E is too big a load for this engine. It runs hot and uses a lot of power. I liked the APC 18x10E better, but ended up with a clipped APC-E 19x12 Wide, which I clipped to about 17".
Old 03-02-2011 | 05:19 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110


ORIGINAL: hezik

Now, tell me about propellers, what is best for a hacker A50-16L on 8s 4900's?
In my experience, the 18x12E is too big a load for this engine. It runs hot and uses a lot of power. I liked the APC 18x10E better, but ended up with a clipped APC-E 19x12 Wide, which I clipped to about 17''.
Do you think any increase in airflow through the plane would help? I doubled the size of the outlet area, and slightly increased the inlet areas. Also people are now using smaller plastic props to allow some airflow there as well.

When looking at the electric motor programs, some have a rating (like Neu's) on how good your cooling is, and 'average' to 'good' makes a substantial difference.
Old 03-02-2011 | 05:27 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

If u are using cc esc, play with its Timing etc settings. It can help the motor runs less hot. that is true with my himax 6330.
Old 03-02-2011 | 10:05 AM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110


ORIGINAL: nonstoprc

If u are using cc esc, play with its Timing etc settings. It can help the motor runs less hot. that is true with my himax 6330.

That is true with any motor! Reducing the timing reduces the performance but also can significantly reduce the heat produced by the motor. In general outrunners are OK up to 20-25 degrees of timing but 15 degrees or 5 degrees will be fine too.
Some 12 months ago Scorpion has changed their recomendation for the timing of their motors from 22.5 to 5 degrees as they have realized that their motors were over rated, or to be more precise the motors were rated based on the neodium magnets with the higher heat resistance they use in comparison to a majority of other motor manufactures, but what good are magnets resistant up to 200 degrees Celsius if the rest of the motor will fall appart at 150 degrees.

Velco
Old 03-02-2011 | 01:38 PM
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From: RR1 Trenton, ON, CANADA
Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Good day all. I am putting the motor (A50-16L) into my Winds now and have a question. This is my first electric pattern plane and not sure where the collar goes that comes with the motor. I put the bearing on the aft shaft and supported it with the supplied support. What is the large wheel collar for? Dave
Old 03-02-2011 | 01:43 PM
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From: RR1 Trenton, ON, CANADA
Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

One other quick question. I am running 2 500 Mah Lipos for my receiver and servos. Is this sufficient power. I am running them through one of the dual regulators (PLR 5-DR2) that Ed Alt sells. One more. I mounted the motor with 4 M4x12mm screws. Is this and the rear bearing support all that holds in the motor? Thanks for any help sent my way. Dave
Old 03-02-2011 | 03:04 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110


ORIGINAL: david hancock

One other quick question. I am running 2 500 Mah Lipos for my receiver and servos. Is this sufficient power. I am running them through one of the dual regulators (PLR 5-DR2) that Ed Alt sells. One more. I mounted the motor with 4 M4x12mm screws. Is this and the rear bearing support all that holds in the motor? Thanks for any help sent my way. Dave
David,

That is probably even overkill. I run dual 350mah packs on my 2m Wind and can comfortably get 10-12 flights. You should use around 30-40mah per flight total, so only about 20 or so from each pack. With the lack of vibration on the electric motors it is amazing how little the servos have to work,

Arch
Old 03-02-2011 | 04:31 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

Hi Dave,
The collar is used to assist in keeping the prop shaft from being pulled or pushed out of the motor. Many people think having one at the back end is sufficient, as this will keep the prop from pulling the shaft out of the motor. However, there are significant forces under braking/down lines, so using one at the front makes sense as well. It goes between the prop and the motor, tight against the front of the motor, and should fit freely in the hole in the firewall.

The motor is held in by the 4 screws through the firewall. A lot of guys are using the rear support as well, and that's all that holds the motor in place. I discarded the rear support after having issues with screws falling out, and eventually the wood splitting and fluttering about.

I use 2x450mah battery packs, and have more than enough for full days of flying with no worries (also Ed's regulators).
Old 03-02-2011 | 04:37 PM
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Default RE: Sebart Wind 110

GUys, another prop question. Seems to me I saw somewhere that someone had fitted a 3 blade prop to the Winds...I love that look with a custom Tru-Turn spinner...so with that being said, would anyone have a 3 blade recomendation?

Thanks for answering all my questions, this electric stuff is just one area I am not experienced in...now if any of you fellers have turbine or rotor head questions I got you covered!

Thanks!


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