Mini Titan thread
#202
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From: pt, PORTUGAL
@InsideOut08 :
I don´t know anything about them, but searching for them here at rcu, found that they are not so good for small planes, but definitely not good for helis.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_gu...m?servo_id=321 <--- read the reviews
I don´t know anything about them, but searching for them here at rcu, found that they are not so good for small planes, but definitely not good for helis.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_gu...m?servo_id=321 <--- read the reviews
#203
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From: Red Deer, AB, CANADA
Well you might find this hard to belive but i just hook all my servos up to the reciver and the rudder is like seized and the Aux Servo dont move at all. the other ones are working but i dont think i wanna take the chance of letting this thing crash im already in the hole 900$. I might as well spend the money and get the good ones. But good call on the servos!. who makes those servos you were talking about like what brand?? will they work with my Spektrum Reciver????
#204
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From: pt, PORTUGAL
I pretty sure that the hs56hb's and hs-65mg's are from hitec.
I´m not so sure if it will work with your receiver, but can´t think why they wouldn´t ... try searching rcu or google.
First, check the movement of the servos on the ground WITH THE MOTOR DISCONNECTED . If they don´t move according to the manual, check everything again :P
My first mistake was trying to fly my heli (walkera 36b) without knowing how... hehe nice thing to watch
I´m not so sure if it will work with your receiver, but can´t think why they wouldn´t ... try searching rcu or google.
First, check the movement of the servos on the ground WITH THE MOTOR DISCONNECTED . If they don´t move according to the manual, check everything again :P
My first mistake was trying to fly my heli (walkera 36b) without knowing how... hehe nice thing to watch
#205
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From: Sykesville,
MD
ORIGINAL: redvtr1000
I had been told to use no less than 14t on it, I bought a 12 and 13t, tried the 12 and it isn't bad at all imo. I need to tweek my curves better. Really haven't had much time to play with it lately though, seems every chance I get to do anything heli, I am working on the raptor. For a beginner, there really is so much to pick up on when making the jump to nitro.
I had been told to use no less than 14t on it, I bought a 12 and 13t, tried the 12 and it isn't bad at all imo. I need to tweek my curves better. Really haven't had much time to play with it lately though, seems every chance I get to do anything heli, I am working on the raptor. For a beginner, there really is so much to pick up on when making the jump to nitro.
yeah, but that's the good part- there's so much you can do these days, it's impossible to get bored...
ORIGINAL: redvtr1000
BTW, nice video. You are up on me...I haven't had the stones for a flip with my MT yet. Don't know why I haven't tried, probably b/c it just feels so different than the sim. It aint for fear of piling it in, God knows I have done that enough to get over it.
BTW, nice video. You are up on me...I haven't had the stones for a flip with my MT yet. Don't know why I haven't tried, probably b/c it just feels so different than the sim. It aint for fear of piling it in, God knows I have done that enough to get over it.
. I did a lot of flying around right side up (started with them in Jan 07), played in the sim a lot and learned the basics of aerobatics, then in July, I just got ornery and decided if I didn't do something IRL I never would
. Crashed the 6th or 7th flight after that, iirc, but that's the only time I've crashed since doing aerobatics, and I've done most of my repertoire from the plank book. I need to work on more heli specific maneuvers- I can do rainbows, funnels, traveling flips and similar, but not very well. Like you I've been tinkering a lot and not paying attention to just getting out to fly. It doesn't help when it's mostly raining, cold, windy or some combination of them. That time of year I guess.
#206
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From: covington,
GA
Been rainy and chilly here as well lately...I'm in georgia but it has still been cold enough to make your fingers ache a bit halfway through the first pack. Into a second pack, forget it. Can't fly so well if I can't feel my fingers.
I'm pretty much so done with tinkering for a little while with the MT, going to get it back in the air and just fly it. Just pretty much so finished setting up my raptor last night so I've got that one to play with now as well. Hoping to get a warm day or two pretty soon....
Insideout08:
Hitec does make the HS-65 servos (hb is the karbonite gear, mg is metal geared). You can get em from amainhobbies.com (or any number of other shops) for about 25 a piece (for the karbonite geared version). Slightly more for the metal version. I use the karbonites and have yet to strip a gear set, if you really don't want to worry, do what Barracuda said and get the metal geared version.
They will plug into your receiver and work just fine. You will have to dremel or file the servo trays. I reccomend removing the trays and doing your grinding work, then test fit the servo. After you get it all working, reinstall.
With the hitecs, on the elevator servo (the one at the rear of the swash) I ended up shimming it out a couple millimeters. Used a couple snippings from one of the servo arms that I chopped off and fit it between the servo and the servo mount. Moves the servo arm towards the front of the heli enough to not rub the frame back there.
I'm pretty much so done with tinkering for a little while with the MT, going to get it back in the air and just fly it. Just pretty much so finished setting up my raptor last night so I've got that one to play with now as well. Hoping to get a warm day or two pretty soon....
Insideout08:
Hitec does make the HS-65 servos (hb is the karbonite gear, mg is metal geared). You can get em from amainhobbies.com (or any number of other shops) for about 25 a piece (for the karbonite geared version). Slightly more for the metal version. I use the karbonites and have yet to strip a gear set, if you really don't want to worry, do what Barracuda said and get the metal geared version.
They will plug into your receiver and work just fine. You will have to dremel or file the servo trays. I reccomend removing the trays and doing your grinding work, then test fit the servo. After you get it all working, reinstall.
With the hitecs, on the elevator servo (the one at the rear of the swash) I ended up shimming it out a couple millimeters. Used a couple snippings from one of the servo arms that I chopped off and fit it between the servo and the servo mount. Moves the servo arm towards the front of the heli enough to not rub the frame back there.
#207

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From: Schaumburg,
IL
Hey guys,
I'm looking at buying either a TT E325 mini-Titan or a T-Rex 500. To help me in my decision I have 2 questions.
#1) What are the 3 BEST places to get replacement parts? By best I mean a) well stocked, b) fair price, c) in the USA
#2) For those that have flown the new T-Rex 500, how does the E325 compare. I am a new flyer so my "primary" concerns are:
a) Most stable in hover & flight
b) easy to work on (I think the E325 might get the nod here)
c) replacement parts cost
I know the T-Rex 500 is larger so it's "assumed" to be more stable due to size but I'm looking for real world experience. I don't plan to do 3D but I also told the wife I don't plan to get another heli ;-) so I may do a little 3D eventually.
Any tips for this newbie would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
I'm looking at buying either a TT E325 mini-Titan or a T-Rex 500. To help me in my decision I have 2 questions.
#1) What are the 3 BEST places to get replacement parts? By best I mean a) well stocked, b) fair price, c) in the USA
#2) For those that have flown the new T-Rex 500, how does the E325 compare. I am a new flyer so my "primary" concerns are:
a) Most stable in hover & flight
b) easy to work on (I think the E325 might get the nod here)
c) replacement parts cost
I know the T-Rex 500 is larger so it's "assumed" to be more stable due to size but I'm looking for real world experience. I don't plan to do 3D but I also told the wife I don't plan to get another heli ;-) so I may do a little 3D eventually.
Any tips for this newbie would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
#208
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From: Sykesville,
MD
Dave-- can't tell about the TR500, don't have one, but I've gotten my parts from Helidirect, Heliproz, and GrandRC- it's hard to pick the best of those three, since they're all good. Helidirect probably has the best Web site, but Heliproz and GrandRC are good just the same, and HP has a better TT section than HD. Ace Hobby is always an option, but their prices are high.
#209
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From: Oak Park,
IL
I am contemplating on purchase of the Mini Titan E325SE. Would appreciate comments regarding this unit. Would I need to upgrade a few things?
Will keep reading as much as I can on this subject, great forum for info.
Thanks in advance.
L8r
Will keep reading as much as I can on this subject, great forum for info.
Thanks in advance.
L8r
#210
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From: Sykesville,
MD
The stock heli flies very well. The motor/esc combo kit is a bit weak, though- not bad, but not as powerful as I (and some others) want. If I had a do-over, I'd get the bare kit, a JGF 500TH or Scorpion HK2221-8 motor, and a Castle Creations Phoenix 45 ESC.
Otherwise, since you add the rx, servos, batteries and gyro separately, they're just a matter of getting good ones in the first place
.
Otherwise, since you add the rx, servos, batteries and gyro separately, they're just a matter of getting good ones in the first place
.
#212

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From: Schaumburg,
IL
Oster,
Thanks for the info on parts AND custom upgrade suggestions for the Mini-Titan. I'll have to put it in the cerebral file. I'm still waiting for my 1st CP heli (Honey Bee King II) that's taking a long time to get here and don't have anything to fly but a lowly Blade CX-II. The only other problem I see with the Mini-Titan is service (I will probably need it being new to helis) as it seems there are no locals flying them.
Anyone in the Chicagoland area deal extensively with the TT MT E325? At least I've narrowed down my "next heli" short list to the T-Rex or the Mini-Titan from the dozens that are out there now. If you guys haven't figured it out yet... I'M NOW ADDICTED to these things!!!
Dave D.
Thanks for the info on parts AND custom upgrade suggestions for the Mini-Titan. I'll have to put it in the cerebral file. I'm still waiting for my 1st CP heli (Honey Bee King II) that's taking a long time to get here and don't have anything to fly but a lowly Blade CX-II. The only other problem I see with the Mini-Titan is service (I will probably need it being new to helis) as it seems there are no locals flying them.
Anyone in the Chicagoland area deal extensively with the TT MT E325? At least I've narrowed down my "next heli" short list to the T-Rex or the Mini-Titan from the dozens that are out there now. If you guys haven't figured it out yet... I'M NOW ADDICTED to these things!!!
Dave D.
#213
You might want to check out eBoyzToyz (http://www.eboyztoyz.net/index.php?ncat=01029) Good prices,selection,and they ship promptly.
#214

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From: Schaumburg,
IL
Thanks BarnyardPilot.
I took a look and they seem to be well stocked. I'll keep them in mind when I decide.
I noticed that the mini-Titan OEM main blades come with huge holes bored in them. I assume this is done to save weight and that they are covered in mylar or similar. Can any type/manufacturers standard blades be used as long as they are the correct length?
I read the E325 review in Radio Control Helicopter and the tester swapped the wooden blades for SAB carbon blades.
Dave D.
I took a look and they seem to be well stocked. I'll keep them in mind when I decide.
I noticed that the mini-Titan OEM main blades come with huge holes bored in them. I assume this is done to save weight and that they are covered in mylar or similar. Can any type/manufacturers standard blades be used as long as they are the correct length?
I read the E325 review in Radio Control Helicopter and the tester swapped the wooden blades for SAB carbon blades.
Dave D.
#215
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From: Sykesville,
MD
You can use different manufacturers' blades (I've actually never used the stock ones). You will need spacers for most upgrade blades, though.
#216

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From: Schaumburg,
IL
Thanks Bill.
I wonder... do the spacers cause the blades to function less efficiently? Also, what other brands do you and the others like for your mini-Titan? Which manufacturers have direct-fit (no spacers needed) blades? Being a beginner to heli's, I would like something less expensive than carbon fiber for learning as they will likely need replacing often.
Dave D.
<You can use different manufacturers' blades (I've actually never used the stock ones). You will need spacers for most upgrade blades, though.>
I wonder... do the spacers cause the blades to function less efficiently? Also, what other brands do you and the others like for your mini-Titan? Which manufacturers have direct-fit (no spacers needed) blades? Being a beginner to heli's, I would like something less expensive than carbon fiber for learning as they will likely need replacing often.
Dave D.
<You can use different manufacturers' blades (I've actually never used the stock ones). You will need spacers for most upgrade blades, though.>
#217
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From: Sykesville,
MD
NP, man. I don't perceive that they work less efficiently. With most grips, in fact, the inner area is hollowed out to enable installing or replacing the bearings, so you don't get as much contact area to the blade as you would otherwise; the washer-type spacers I've used spread the contact out on the blade and let it lead/lag more smoothly. I haven't used the folding TT original spacers, but they should be fine, too. Personally, I like having enough room to use washers around the blades.
I honestly don't know what blades would fit directly- I never went looking for them. If you're ok with spacers, the Align 325 woodies are good middle-of-the-road blades; they're pretty consistently made, they're dirt cheap, and if your local hobby shop carries any heli parts at all, they probably have these blades. They do have a sharp initial collective pop, but otherwise they're pretty smooth.
I honestly don't know what blades would fit directly- I never went looking for them. If you're ok with spacers, the Align 325 woodies are good middle-of-the-road blades; they're pretty consistently made, they're dirt cheap, and if your local hobby shop carries any heli parts at all, they probably have these blades. They do have a sharp initial collective pop, but otherwise they're pretty smooth.
#218
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From: covington,
GA
I'm using the align blades and like them for the most part. The woodies that osterizer mentioned are probably your best bet for a beginner blade. They are more efficient than the stock tt wood blades. I haven't tried a single blade on my MT that didn't require some form of spacer other than the stock blades.
Align also makes some cheaper CF and fibreglass blades (still under 15 bucks a set) that are not bad either. I think I like the woods the best though.
Align also makes some cheaper CF and fibreglass blades (still under 15 bucks a set) that are not bad either. I think I like the woods the best though.
#219
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From: Creve Coeur, IL
I am changing the servo arms on my Futaba servos to dubro arms that are stiffer. The manual calls for a 12.5 mm spacing from the servo output shaft to the ball link and the holes lay out at 11 and 13.5 mm's.
I was going to go with 13.5 mm is that the right choice?
What will it do to the head geometry?
D
I was going to go with 13.5 mm is that the right choice?
What will it do to the head geometry?
D
#220
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From: pt, PORTUGAL
@devens
I´m no expert, so i´m just supposing. since you´re moving the position of the ball links, your linkage rods are going to get diagonal to the swashplate instead of being perpendicular, is that a good thing?
I´m no expert, so i´m just supposing. since you´re moving the position of the ball links, your linkage rods are going to get diagonal to the swashplate instead of being perpendicular, is that a good thing?
#221
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From: Sykesville,
MD
You should get as close as possible, but 1 or 1.5mm difference isn't a huge problem- just get your linkages the spec length, then adjust the swash position as usual.
Which Futaba servos are you replacing the arms on? If it's the 3107s, then why? If the 3114s, I already know why
.
Which Futaba servos are you replacing the arms on? If it's the 3107s, then why? If the 3114s, I already know why
.
#222
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From: Creve Coeur, IL
3154's are the servos I am using. The arms are wimpy! The output shaft is the same size as the new eflite DS75 that come on the new blade 400. The arms that come on the servos on the blade are extra stiff! They are not yet in stock. [
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]
#223
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From: Sykesville,
MD
Ha, yeah, they're pretty lightweight. Never understood that- the arms on the 3107s are iron bars in comparison.
If you get the Du-Bros and they fit let us know. I'd like to replace the arms on the 3114s, and if the ones you get fit the 3154 I'll bet they'll fit my servos, too.
If you get the Du-Bros and they fit let us know. I'd like to replace the arms on the 3114s, and if the ones you get fit the 3154 I'll bet they'll fit my servos, too.
#224
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From: Creve Coeur, IL
The dubros fit just fine. The hole layout is as described in my post above. They are significantly stiffer! They are black graphite/glass composite.


